Don't worry about delays with answering questions. A number of people just flick the heart as a "I've seen your comment" , you on the other hand, give exceedingly helpful advice specific to the question. That takes time. You are very generous with that as it is. I would rather wait for a helpful response than to have a generic heart. Thank you for answering at all. You are a great teacher and your enjoyment at teaching shines through.
Thank you so much for the kind words! You're right, I love teaching and I love answering questions... Striving to keep up! Thanks for sewing along with me.
I am gonna follow this when I try to add ease to a knit scuba suede jacket sleeve. The original trial fabric worked ok, but this fabric is more bulky so I have to cut a bit bigger sleeves. One reason I like to buy more fabric than I need. Lol. Thank you. I have bigger biceps and if I wear a jacket and long sleeves under it, it needs to have more ease for me. Thank you!
Thank you so much for these tips. You are thorough, and easy to understand. I'm an experienced sewist but never had much instruction in pattern alterations even in an advanced tailoring class!
I have spent all weekend perfecting my bodice, including the sleeve, which is always my nemesis. I finished only to realize that the bicep was too tight. I did NOT want to mess with my sleeve cap or the bodice side seams that I'd tweaked three times already. Your video has given me hope. Now I don't have to fret about how I'm going to tackle this next weekend. Thank you!
I`m sure people understand that it`s impossible for youtubers to answer every single comment. at least after a certain point of subscribers. I`m a recent subscriber and I really appreciate all the great tips. thank you :)
What is the max that the bicep can be enlarged for a woven? Also, did this change the sleeve cap at all? Does the enlarged bicep alteration change how the sleeve is set in? Thank you! Your knowledge is amazing, as is your teaching style.
I've added up to an inch on each side of the sleeve for a total of 2" working with students in hands on classes. The larger the size of your sleeve, the more wiggle room you have to spread the bicep and add room. As you add to the cap, you are flattening out and spreading the shape of the cap. If you need more room than you can spread, you can add to the under arm seam a little bit too. :)
That was so helpful. I am soaking up all the videos I can find on fitting but need to jump in and start some muslins and practice. Thank you so much. Hope your mom is getting better
You got this! I think the best way to learn how to fit is to work with fit muslins! Keep me posted if you run into something you need help with! Thanks for fitting along with me.
We have a new study group in my fiber guild where we are discussing making patterns fit. Having watched your videos, I had the nifty measuring tape-everybody wanted one!
I find that most patterns seem to fit me Ok proportionally ...but my problem area as I advance in years is in the bicep area. Thanks for this tutorial. I don't want to have to choose styles just because they feature a looser, unfitted shape sleeve. I love a nice smooth fitted sleeve in a shirt or jacket. Now I should be able to make one that is in proportion to the rest of the garment.
I enjoy your videos a great deal. My apologies if you’ve answered this question because I must have missed it. How much ease should I allow for a woven fabric at the bicep over and above the bicep measurement?
The "standard" recommendation is approximately 2" of ease ... You can customize this amount after you make your fit muslin... Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me. You may also want to check out my new series... Efficient Work Flow for Bodice Fitting... Here's a link to part 1: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gNsFm8t_F8o.html (This series finishes up by fitting the sleeve) Thanks for fitting along with me
I'm excited to try this and I'm curious if you think there's a benefit to this way versus the slashing up the middle method. I haven't tried either one.
Happy to hear! If you're talking about slashing the sleeve pattern all the way up the middle and spreading it... that works great when you need extra ease along the entire sleeve... including more ease in the cap. This method does not change the ease in the cap! Thanks for following along with me
The front/back armholes need to be adjusted vertically so they agree with the length of your body. This is different from adding ease in the biceps to fit your arm... I just finished a new series "Efficient Work Flow for Bodice Fitting"... Here's the link to part 1 so you can check it out. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gNsFm8t_F8o.html Then part 2 deals with the depth of the armhole, here's the link for that: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-G6luj9fLrwk.html Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
I have the same question as Linda Ladner below, about max that the bicep can be enlarged for a woven. I have done a lot of physical labor all my life so my sleeves at the bicep never fit me enough in pure measure (21") and I seem to need a lot of ease as well for a sleeve not to feel too tight. Is it my shoulders too? Should I automatically go up a size or 2 beyond bust measure? I have ended up making sleeveless summer shirts but still have a problem with my winter flannel shirts. Hope you can steer me in the right direction. Every flannel shirt I try something new but never seem to resolve this. Thank you so much!! I've learned tons from your tips!
I asked this question from Jen 8n the Fit the Tee to a Tee class. She sent this diagram. I designed my sleeve in a woven fabric gaining1 1/2 inches at the bicept. I went ahead and let the botom of the sleeve be 1 1/2 inch wider, , gathering it into a cuff. All my life I have had tight sleeves from working . But now I love the fit of these sleeves. And I love that the shoulder and arm hole fit nicely.
I've had experience adding as much as 2" to the bicep in hands on fitting classes with students. Going up a couple sizes really doesn't add very much to the bicep because the grading on a sleeve is very small (typically an 1/8" up for each size change on each side edge... for a total of 1/4") ...Some patterns are graded a little closer to a 1/4" on each side... but you'll also end up with a sleeve cap that's too big for the armhole if you go up in sleeve size compared to bodice size. You can also add to the underarm seam edges in addition to the adjustment I show here.
@@JSternDesigns Thanks very much for these insights. I have noticed going up sizes doesn't add much to the bicep. And I have tried going oversize and having the sleeve cap too big (just tried that this year). I have had some luck creating a gusset shape that opens up the armseye under the arm pit and down 2 inches into side seam and that allows me to add inches to the bottom of the sleeve seams in any shape that serves me while I can still taper to the wrist. It's like creating a 2 part sleeve seam like a jacket. It's not a perfect hack as it's noticeable on plain fabrics but it does give me room to move. Thank you
Do you think this method would work to remove ease from the bicep if I overlapped instead of spread? I am working on a bodice/sleeve sloper with a one piece darted sleeve and I think I have too much ease at the bicep. (Maybe all the way down the sleeve.) But my bodice shoulder and armhole are fitting really well.
Yes, you can do this technique in reverse to remove ease in the bicep :) The nice part of this adjustment is that it doesn't affect the armhole or shoulder seam! Hope it helps, thanks for fitting along with me!
If you're shorten the armhole because you need to pick up excess vertical ease, you may not need to move the bust dart down. But if shortening the armhole also picks up the bust dart, then you will need to lower it back down. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
Hi. Change of subject, i have tried to email you but it keeps returning undeliverable the address does not exist. I am trying to find the video you did a while back on altering the crutch on RTW jeans, can you please point me in the right direction. Love all of your tips and alteration advice.
I'm reducing the crutch area. Hubby has NO butt but a big belly. Need to shorten the length & depth of crutch. I have saved the video where you take off the waistband & shorten that way, but still needs more taken out of the crutch. I thought I saw a video where you unpicked the crutch seams and cut away extra fabric & resewed the seams back up. That's what I'm looking for please.
