What kind of indestructainium are you using for your drill bits? Tried cobalt bits to do just that, immediately prior to taking this video, and absolutely trashed all of them and barely even scratched the shifter collet. By the way, got any tips for removing the bumper bolts from a M1008/M1009, you know the ones made of pure indestructainium, using something other than a oxyacetylene torch to melt them out or pure brute force to break them? Busted a 1/2" DeWalt ratchet and a couple 1/2"-3/8" adapters to bust 3 of the 6 bolts free, then the oxyacetylene torch came out. I have to do the same thing on another one before long.
@@lawnmowerrepairsandstuff3154 I used common nitride coated drill bits. As a Isuzu dealer tech, it was a divorced 1986-1988 Trooper gear box (All are 4X4's) but installed a double roll pin in shift forks and other areas as all are same size. I needed some Grade 8 all-thread and found a fastener retailer not far. After my purchase I asked about the heavy roll pins. He recommended them to everyone and had 12 sizes in stock. As far as penetrating oil, never used it in 42+ years, same with impact. I went for a breaker bar, cheater pipe and broke bolts loose. My choice is engine oil in all 3 oil cans. I avoid "Chineezium" because it breaks or doesn't work. I had 90% SnapOn tools and a set of MAC pullers from my brother in law hard up for money and in SnapOn tool box #3. I have some craftsmen stuff but for few jobs. SnapOn sold CP, Rigid, Mayhew, and other brands now found at McMaster-Carr! I was asked once about the speed of high-speed drill bits. The correct answer is faster than hand. So keep speed low at medium trigger. Cobalt, nitride and other heavy metals on the bottom line of the periodic table, are all deposited the same way. In a vacuum chamber, the negative charged tools are hanging with diatomaceous earth or ceramic coating parts for areas not to be covered. While a tiny hokey puck of the heavy metal is struck with a high voltage arc, vaporizing it. It deposits on the tool. Size, time, placement are all factors or good or cheap. This SAE standards or Chineezium. Best of luck! DK
Me too, that pin is harder than hard! Just mutilated normal bits instantly, mutilated cobalt bits almost as quickly. Chevy hardware (especially on the Military trucks and blazers) is nothing to mess with! 🤣
Sorry to hear about your truck. hope no-one was hurt. Good info on the shifter. thanks for sharing. Quick question. My old shifter broke in 1st gear. Installed replacement shifter. Now the truck is still in 1st, but the shifter won't come outta neutral. Can't grab any gears. With clutch in, eng. started, clutch in and out a couple times, it still won't find a gear. Only moves side ta side. Is there a way to line up the rail inside? Thanks for any replies.
Sorry for the late reply! That I wouldn't know, but you might try using a screwdriver or something to reach in there and get it lined up. I would jack up the rear end off the ground and then try to get things lined up in there with the engine turned off, that way there's no tension on anything. You might want an assistant to wiggle/turn the driveshaft to make it easier. Be safe, and good luck! Nobody was hurt in the wreck, thank you for your concern. I got out with a bruise, a few scratches on my left arm, and a mild case of whiplash. Pulled the engine by myself the next day and put it in my other truck.
@@lawnmowerrepairsandstuff3154 I was able to do exactly what you recommended. Pull the shift fork outta 1st, with a screwdriver, and put it in neutral. That did the trick. Can't believe the shifter will drop in, when its not aligned. Oh well, learn something new every day. Thanks for your reply.
Put a little over 40k miles on it after that with no problems whatsoever, then I got distracted for a second or two and rolled the ol' girl 3-1/2 times on August 29th. The transmission is going into another pickup as soon as I get another one, the engine already went into another pickup.
