I'm still using one that has handlebars and the 11 horsepower Briggs motor...33 inch deck....and leaf and grass bagger....they should bring back the first generations of this mower...one of the best consumer lawn mowers ever built!!!
I have two 28-inch cut Snappers. One from 1984 and the second from 2007. The drive mechanism on my early mowers is the same as these mowers shown. Really simple to maintain and work on. Just hope I can keep my two going for few more years.
Great video. I got my first Snapper in 1985, can't remember much except that it was 8 HP and 28 inch cut. I was hooked. Next model was similar to the 2000 model in your video. Traded that in for a new 2006 model, which I still use. I've had a few repairs over the years, but all were pretty straight forward. These indeed are engineered well, but not complicated. Since they're not made any longer, I'll need to keep mine going for a few more years!
I just bought one and I'm fixing it up. I have the older version that is lowered to the ground lower center gravity because I live in the mountains and I live on a lot of slopes makes it. A lot easier to mow and not tip over.😊😊😊
Nice video ! Your video was a little vague on the different models , & years ! But it still nice that You took the time to do this video , As I have a few Snappers myself 2 RER's 1974 Comet , & a 2012 with a 30 inch deck non high-vac , & 2 self-propelled walk behinds a 1985 & a 1990 , All these mowers are treated with routine maintenance ! & the 85 & 74 have replacement engines , & that's cheaper than buying new mowers ! & it's a shame that these mowers are not being produced anymore ! But I'll keep mine going as long as I can still get the parts , I've always been a fan of these mowers ! & there quality , & reliability have proven themselves season after season. Thanks for the video.
I worked on a 1967-71 Model 2650 today and its Amazing how similar they were even back then, the 2650 was a series 0 machine and was part of the first Generation of the RER I think the series 0 machines came out around 1963 , and yes the Drive system and steering systems are virtually Identical with a few Upgrades in braking and also the Easy Start Clutch System in the 1980s , I also have a Circa 1975 3081WS machine that does not have the Easy Start Clutch system and you have to be real careful about starting out in high gear it will literally Wheelie and throw you off the back if you are not anticipating the Lurch Forward...LOL my old 2650 has been upgraded with the 1980s Easy Start Clutch and is much more user Friendly :-) thanks for showing these newer Machines!
We ran one professionally during the 80's and could not find much fault. Easy to use, easy to maintain.Changing blade or clutch was easy enough. They carry a driver and cut grass, no frills. Like all B&S engines they need fuel and oil. Simple! I would buy another tomorrow. Thanks for you vid.
Thanks for the video. I'm still using the Snapper 307XS, which my dad purchased in 1968 (I was 10 years old then) for me to cut the lawn with. I am on about the 7th or 8th engine replacement so far. Just finished refreshing the differential, chaincase, boots, and did a general maintenance workover on it. I really like the simplicity of the design of the 307XS, as there are much less useless "safety" items on it. Common sense has now been supplanted by safety devices, as they just don't teach common sense anymore to the newer generations.
He has MUCH misinformation and BAD WRONG assembly info & practices concerning the differentials and chain cases, do NOT drive the chain case needle bearings BACH INTO the case assembly to limit the designed in end play, doing so LIMITS / HINDERS the needle bearings from getting grease properly, I speak as a 40+ year EMPLOYEE that worked IN & ON those assemblies AT the plant.
There must be another series as my model has H type bar in the back for the catcher, and the steering column in like the 2011 but it is older than that.
7:25 the statement about "by 2019 they figured out the issue with what they were doing" concerning the rear bumper is incorrect, that bumper part numbers were 33587 aka 7033587 aka 7033587YP used on that model was used in EARLIER versions that you don't have represented, they used those bumpers on the many of the 42" mowers for extra stability and other Snapper products it was and still is a superb bumper for stability, I recently looked it up and there are still a few out there in the market.
@@victoryfirst2878 Part numbers 3-3587 and 7033587YP these are "Loop" bumpers in other words they are connected at the top end, the stability is they have bent out sections on each end, these bumpers WILL fit series aka models all the way back to the 60's
Man mine must be a little older. It’s just like the old one in your video but missing a few features like the 3 little wheels on the deck. And the shifter gates/numbers look a little different
I'm trying to set the clutch/ brake on a rear wheel snapper. The pedal has a pulley on it... No one speaks about that version. My client/friend needs it fixed . Do I remove and relocate the pulley to get the slack to do the adjustments I need?
Take the Series / Model number off the Serial plate ON the frame, then you can get a Owners / Operators manual FOR THAT SPECIFIC machine, they are NOT all the same
You may be the only one who can answer this. Typically is the wheel width the same as as the deck width? Looking at a 25" deck model but widest width cannot exceed 29" to fit in my van and ramp. I would think when you cut close, you don't want cut width to be smaller than the outside of wheels.
The ability of the tube frame to pivot at the joint between the rear adds some stability on uneven terrain. If you keep the friction disc well adjusted (or replace a worn disc, as I had to do on my first machine), you should have no trouble traversing reasonable inclines. I don't see how these could be considered any more dangerous than any other lawn tractor, but it only takes a few people who lack common sense, along with a couple unscrupulous lawyers, to render a product "unsafe", be it a lawn implement or a hot coffee from McD's.
Not a bad comparison, but generation term isn't correct, it should be Series, if you post the Serial plate info of each I can give you more details, real shame the newest one has so many leaks in the differential area.
My model is M281021BE. I know it's a 28" cut/ 10HP/ Series 21 / battery/electric start. The serial number is 11003905. Is there any way to decode the serial number to see when it was made? I bought it used and downloaded the manuals, but I still don't know when it was made.
@@789295 NO not by the Serial plate BUT IF it has the original engine the engine will have a date code on it, IF it has the ORIGINAL gas tank it has the mfg date OF THE TANK MOLDED INTO IT, either of these methods are only good IF they are original to the mower,
@@789295 3/29/2000 is the Initial Release of the Owners Operators manual, what Initial Release means it is the FIRST DATE that Manual was created for THAT SERIES, it was the FIRST created before they were put in with the mowers before shipping, thus your mower was NOT SHIPPED BEFORE 2000
I have a question, please. Mine is a fairly old model, I've looked on the back for ID but nothing. Anyway, someone had burned up the stater trying to fix an ignition issue and has the wiring a bit messed up, with missing wire and obviously wrong hook ups. But that has nothing to do with the question... I just like babbling. I'm starting with a jumper cable directly to the starter to check for spark, and will figure it all out from there. The problem is, though I'm in neutral the engine won't spin but about 3/4 of a turn by hand or under starter power. Iong story shorter, I know it's not locked up from internal engine damage. It feels like it's just not in neutral when turned by hand, but I have it in neutral. Also, important to say It was running until the owner had ignition issues. Is there some type of safety engine brake or other safety device on this thing? I can't push pedals or the clutch while trying to start it because I of course can't get to them from the back where I'm jumping the starter and I'm alone. Can someone offer a solution ? FWIW, it's old enough to have the all metal engine cowling, but other than that I've no data on it for reasons given. Thanks for any help.
They actually brought them back, for a time right??? I have a newer one, bought it used but I believe it's a model RE110? It has a 11.5HP B&S, a 28" deck, rack and pinion steering, but it's missing the bars you can stand it up on the back end with. My local power equipment shop tells me you can actually buy the bars and add yourself.
@@REVNUMANEWBERN Yeah, as soon as I got a couple problems corrected on that mower, I flipped it and made some money.. That's what I like doing, since I retired a year ago.
