Some really good info here. You are the only one that I have found putting out good content on these Holley Snipers. I am on the fence about installing one on my 1970 Mustang. But after watching your videos I think I may be sold on this unit vs. the FiTech.
Nice video! Guys should also set the turn on temp to something just above the temp it runs at going down the highway. I'd also suggest they use a good quality (Bosch) relay rather than a cheapo since the fans operation is critical and the cheap relays don't hold up to long term and high current use. I used Derale's 2 speed, 18" fan with great results. The Sniper controls the two speeds so much of the time the fan runs at a lower, more quiets speed unless more cooling power is required. I also have a switch that grounds the low speed stage of the fan in case I want to overide the EFI's control. It does a good job of keeping my 390 cool. Sweet car BTW!!
@@scofow They were something like this: www.amazon.com/Bosch-Automotive-0332019103-Normal-Relays/dp/B004Z0VX4S/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=bosch+brand+relay&qid=1604093095&sr=8-6 You can also get them with mounting tabs.
@@ScottDLR Good recommendation. I have tried those as well as the cheaper ones (around $10 for 4) that have 500+ 5 star reviews and both have worked well for years. If you doubt the quality, just install them with a socket so that it's an easy replacement and toss a spare in the glove box.
@@AmbiVe I havent had any problems with the off-brand cheapo's either but I did a test where I ran them with the fans on for an hour and the cheap relays got much warmer than the Bosch parts. That kinda scared me away from them.
Dude, we could be friends. I'm working on the dual fan set up for the sniper on a 351C in my '67 fastback right now. This is some of the best info yet to be found! I got the whole kit from tank to manifold, with the dual sync distributor. So far so good. How much noise does your fuel pump make?
This pump is noisier than it should be. I'm going to swap it for another and see if it's a pump issue. I have other 044s no where near this loud (the one on my 280z is basically silent).
Using only one fan, does it matter which wire (blue or green) I use? I used the blue wire and the fan isn't being controlled by the sniper. It just runs with key on.
There are a couple possible answers depending on what and how you have things configured. If the relay you are using is closed by default, the fan would actually be on until the sniper wanted to turn it off. Basically backwards relay logic. If you don't have the sniper outputs configured to be off until the temp threshold is reached, then they could be grounded all the time as well. In theory, green and blue are both just outputs, you just need to configure them, but by default they are set at different levels of engagement. Blue is fan 1 and green is fan 2 in the software I believe.
@@AmbiVe I don't think the relay is closed. It came with the fan. I ohm'd it and got a reading of 90 so it shouldn't be defective. I have the handheld set to have fan 1 and 2 off until 190 degrees. It's 75 degrees currently. So it should be grounded. Also just did a firmware update and ran the wizard. No luck. Fan still churning. The handheld even says both fans are off and AC is off.
The ECU should only be grounding the trigger wires when it wants the fans to turn on. If they are always grounded, then there is an issue with the ECU control or the wiring. Does the relay click when the key comes on or is it always engaged?
Have u updated your firmware. Mine is updated and afr doesnt read live like that I get init instead. Thats my favorite screen as well it shows all the important data. What size fans did u use how are they holding up?
I'm using a single 16" Mishimoto right now, but I'm going to cut out all the front support area and fab up a better flowing system next time I pull the engine. I want to run two 14" fans staggered in the future. Yes, I'm on the lastest firmware (had to for my new Hyperspark ignition). So far all my sensors still read live and correctly.
No problem. Unless you need them to fit into an existing box, the specific type shouldn't matter. Basically, the important information is that they handle the number of amps your application requires and work as you need. The style I use most commonly is often just called "Bosch" relays as they created that specific form factor. They are pretty standard in the world of standalone relays.
The fans are off until the relay is engaged if you're using a normally open relay. If you use a normally closed, then you would have an always running issue until the trigger is active. If you want to be able to override the operation to be able to turn it off even if the trigger is on, just split the trigger with a switch that can break that circuit.
If I remember correctly, this was back when the battery was still under the hood, so it was either 12 or 14 gauge at about 5-6ft run per relay with the smaller fans pure copper. In the current setup with the battery in the trunk I ran 0 gauge from the battery to the break out under the hood, then 10 gauge to fan relay I believe. For the distances, it's oversized still.
It's blue, mostly. It's not the best paint job in the world. When I paint it soon, I'll go with a dark metallic base under blue with the stripes double coated silver metallic and white top, then clear it all in.
I believe it's the 69 hood scoop. It was added to the hood by a previous owner ages ago and I'm not sure if it was an actual option scoop they sourced or a reproduction.
The fans only receive power when they are switched on thermostatically, be that by thermoswitch or ECU. That's one of the big perks to having a relay in the middle that is switched.
Nice video! @AmbiVe Do you know if the Sniper is able to PWM a signal to a SSR for the cooling fan?? My fan works good but it’s loud and I’d like to run it slower when it’s not needed to be at 100%.
As far as I know it only sends a straight on/off grounding signal. I was thinking about doing something similar with my PMU-16, but I was considering using a new sensor or the gauge wire and fudging the range for two fan modes with multiple programmed functions on that ranged input.
i did everything to set my fans. Every time i turn the key into the on position fan 1 goes on .This just started happening .Do you know what might be causing it ?
Your display should tell you if they are on or off. If the computer thinks they are off and they are on, you have a wiring issue. If the computer is turning them on, I would check the temperature range for your fans to ensure you have the turn on point set above the current temp, then check that you don't have it set to being overridden to ignore temp and be always on.
@@AmbiVe ok , i did everything and 1 still goes on when i turn the key to the on position. how do i check if the computeris overiding the fan to go on ?
@@AmbiVe the # 1 fan goes on when i turn the key to on position. I checked the temps and they are spot on , so where do i go on hand held to shut it off ?
Is your relay bad? Otherwise, it must be being grounded all the time the computer is on, so then you should be able to look at the handheld screen and see if it wants the fan to be on. Swap through the output screens until you find one that shows if the fans are on or off.
