Great instructions. I’m planning on putting dual electric fans on my c10 once I get it up and going. Also I didn’t realize the sniper (which I also have) could control the fans so thanks for the tech tip!
Great Video. You may want to consider mounting the fans all the way to the bottom. Reason? If you start to run low on coolant for any reason, where will the coolant be? Yup, at the bottom. That did save me one time.
Fly Fast and Hard good tip. Yea the new coolant reservoir as helped. I watch it like a hawk. I must say the new fans work great. Despite being at 4500ft and well Over 100F in the summer it never gets over 190ish
About to go pickup an orange 76 short bed stepside Chevy with a 454. It has bad cancer in the cab, the hardest part to find replacements for. I'll do my best to fix that with various techniques plus follow your videos for advice on setup. Thanks.
As far as fans turning on prematurely possibly ( because I'm not a mechanic but an HVAC tech ) would be a delay an make timer. THEY make these for the hvac trade for various reasons , and they are adjustable from a few seconds to a few minutes.
Would love to see a quick video on your switched power block on the fire wall. looks like a great idea! I have a sniper and hyperspark on the shelf waiting to go into my 86 c10 with a 454 as soon as i have some time! dual electrics will be next. Great videos by the way, really good information.
Thanks for watching! Are you talking about the 4 stud bus bar? I believe i snagged it off of Amazon for cheap. Essentially ive got one switched 12V wire coming from inside the cab and use it to trigger all of my EFI relays. Its cleaner than splicing in 4 times. My one comment would be to try and find a source for the electric fans thats only on when the engine is running and not just the key on. It would be easier on the battery.
Nice, clean install. Careful with that shroud against the fins, especially without the rubber edging on it. The vibration will rub through the rows and cause a leak.
SudsyCloud good call ill keep an eye on it. The edging on the top and bottom spaces it a bit so its touching on the top and bottom (with edging) whereas the sides should have a gap
Love your vids! I have an 85 squarebody big block with duel tank and I wanted to know how you did your fuel pump or pumps? In tank or a framrail pump. And did you use the factory return line or did you need to install an aftermarket one? Mine has a factory return line from the factory carb set up. Thank you!
Andy Notserp so when i got my truck someone was already using an electric pump along the frame but i removed that. My system is a singular in tank fuel pump with soft 3/8” supply and return lines with Earls vapor guard fittings. One of my older videos has a little Bit of information on the fuel system. Just make sure you plan your fuel line and pump sizing for your power level. If i could do it again id oversize my in tank pump and lines. The normal Holley size is good for up to around 550-600 flywheel horsepower
Thanks for another great video! I'm getting ready to install new rad/fans in my Chevelle in the next few weeks, to be controlled by my Holley Sniper also. Super important tip you gave about the alternator - I've installed the same PowerMaster 150 that you did. The only difference is the dual fan relay kit that I bought from CE Auto has a single trigger for both relays, so that I can put a switch in my console, running off a switched 12v source, to shut my fans off manually anytime if needed. With your relay kit I'm not sure if that would be a possibility, to give you that override control over your fans?
AnonymousChannel thanks for the positive feedback! Yea thats a good point. I believe i could put a switch in series for my trigger wire and that way i have the option to shut it off when cranking the engine. The only issue there is you have to remember to close the switch after you start it
@@truckandroll989 Yes, agreed. You should be able to put a switch for the 12V Switched source. Then if your engine's warm when you hit the key and the fan(s) come on, just shutoff the 12V Switched switch then turn it on once the engine is started. Please keep the good videos coming!
@@truckandroll989 Ok thank you. I like your setup . I love the big blocks. Don’t have want to play with now all I have a small blocks.. have a blessed weekend enjoy your Thanksgiving holiday
It would be smart especially during hot restarts so you arent cranking while also running dual fans. Its probably not a big deal for the battery so long as you aren’t cranking during the inrush time period of the fans kicking on. In other words turn on key, wait a second, and then crank
So unfortunately i do not know much. When I bought the truck it had them already installed. As of recently they’ve started to squeal. They still utilize the alternator bracket as a way to apply tension and thats only for the alternator, power water pump, etc. Power steering pump has its own belt. I would reccomend a setup that uses a modern style tensioner to ensure its always in solid tension.
@@truckandroll989 thanks yeah I saw that later in the video. It’s the same setup I have now but with v-belts. I just found March 655-6355 and 655-617 which I think is that setup for SBC. The kits with tensioner are a lot more $$. If you need more adjustments in your alternator turnbuckle look at McMaster-Carr.
Truthfully no I did not but it was nice not having a clutch fan whizzing around when the engine is cold. It definitely tidied up the engine bay and now I never worry about overheating
Look to spend around $400 for the fans, wiring relay kit, and miscellaneous other items. This is all provided your alternator can handle the added current draw and doesnt need to be upgraded too.
We sell 180w electric fans same as SPAL but less expensive at www.americanvolt.com/collections/electric-fans. Various thermostat switch turn-on temperatures and NPT thread sizes available as well.
