Couldn't stop laughing, watching Gaz do pull-ups 😂😂 ... Gets to end of video, oh nevermind 😂😂 Quality video very interesting. Hope you have been safe and well during covid
I have 25 years experience in the connector manufacturing industry and it is not recommended. When the crimp connector relaxes it pulls away from the cable and leaves a high resistance joint. Pulling gently back and forth on the cable you can feel it clicking inside the connector. This is worsened because the cable is annealed and the connector very often is not. Tensile testing like this is irrelevant because you are pulling against the wedge shaped deformation on the cable. Relevant spec is BS4579 part 1. Smaller cables are worse - try a 0.5mm2 cable in a red terminal. 2.5mm2 is the largest cable size reccomended for the blue - try 1.0mm2 or 1.5mm2 in the blue.
The most of these crimps are not rated for solid conductors, only for stranded and fine stranded. But there are such crimps available for solid, but they are not insulated.
Finally I found someone making sense out of this subject. I actually need to join 2.5mm twin and earth and tried crimping with insulated blue splice butts or whatever they are called and actually came across the same finding. If you start pulling in and out of the connector you can feel the clicking and that can't be good.
@@JasperJanssen the crimps were holding half the weight. There were 4 crimps, but the two on the left were "in series" so experienced the same force and the force wasn't divided up. Same for the two on the right.
Most of these crimp connectors are only rated for stranded and fine stranded conductors. But there are also ones available which are rated for solid conductors, but they are not insulated. Meaning you'll have to put a piece of heat shrink tubing over it. A good crimp will not fail if stressed, rather the copper itself will fail.
This has only just appeared on my timeline, interesting. I think the question should be not can you, as in, is it physically possible, but, should you, crimp to solid conductors with this kind of crimp and crimp tool? I think that whilst the mechanical strength seems reasonable as the outcome of this experiment, other things need to be considered. Such as (but not limited to), for example, the solid core will not distort that much. After all, it is solid. How much contact area are we getting between the crimp and the core? Is the contact patch adequate for the current rating of the circuit? We have all seen connections come loose with time, there are many reasons for this. One reason is cold flow, and this could easily occur in a solid core when crimped like this, this would, in turn, make the crimp lose on the core and reduce the contact area, and therefore the current carrying capacity of the crimped joint. Another would be dimensional change due to temperature, closely linked to cold flow. The core is crimped tight, when it heats up, it is prevented from expanding in the direction of the grip by the crimp. Remember that the core will expand in 3 dimensions when heated. When it cools, the core is free to contract in any plane; thus it can contract away from where it is gripped by the crimp in that (those) plane (s). This again would, after time and repeated cycles, result in the crimp becoming loose on the core. I know that eFIXX has not said that it is OK or not to use crimps like these on solid cores; I have just put this in so people can consider what they do and whether they want to rely on these crimps This comment is probably not well-written, but I hope it makes sense. I'm not too well today, those who know me, Gaz, Gordon, you know why, I think mulling over this will follow the law of diminishing returns, so I've just posed my first thoughts.
Brilliant video, tension was amazing and was making me laugh throughout! Interesting about the strength of the crimps, and how you need to know how to crimp correctly to make sure the connection is as strong as it should be.
I still have a crimping tool with the little indent in the crimp that pressed right into the joint. I always felt that they gave a more positive crimp. Why did electricians stop using those?
I’m really surprised with them tbh ! I recently posted a video where I mention I didn’t agree with solid cores and crimps and even pulled one I found loose with no pressure at all. Maybe I’m going to change my outlook
Excellent content as always. I hope this leads on to a video which shows us how to use the crimp tools properly. Not one video about crimping on youtube seems to tell you how to actually use the tool, especially in terms of exactly where to place the crimp in the tool and I bet those reasonably priced crimpers didn’t come with instructions either!
Only encountered the necessity of doing this when fitting that plastic 2/3 module Wylex box without any termination method except attaching 2 crimp ring terminals to the box's DIN rail for the CPC conductor. Thankfully this box is now being phased out from some retailers (Toolstation, but still supplied by Screwfix) in favour of a 2 module metal box supplied with a double pole isolator switch which could be replaced with a double pole class A RCCB.
Lol..funny :-D I think it depends largely on the method of crimping too. Double the ends over and you get a much stronger crimp. Also the quality of the actual crimp is important. Some are made of tinned copper, others are are a harder alloy, dependent on manufacturer, You get what you pay for with crimps.
A 26 amp load test would be more appropriate many a time ive come across crimps on solid conductors that were loose in the crimp some could be pulled out but never found a loose crimp with stranded conductors
i am going to start using ferrules in a commercial enviroment where circuits use higher loads or higher load circuits i came across a neutral bar that was burnt out i done some reseach and loose connection came up again and again . i think that is a bit lazy dismissing it as a loose neutral i think the fact that all the holes are the same size on the busbar doesnt help get a great connection and that a ferrule would help get better contact hopefully helping to prevent burnt out neutrals
Keen to see how a heat shrink solder connection would hold up? What about an old school terminal block! Or the bodge job favourite, twisted together and tape.
Gaz you're a star, couldn't stop laughing at the pullups .. i only use cembre crimping gear.. never let me down, interested to see how strong they crimp.. no dumb bells so i'll have to resort to hanging the apprentice over the scaffolding .. would be interesting to see the failures, handy tips for the young lads
There’s so much crap out on the market for insulated crimping tools. I have a set that have served me well for the past 15 years and I don’t trust any others. I use them solely on automotive and plant repair jobs though, and only on multistranded cables. I think because red / yellow / blue crimps are so popular, the market is flooded with rubbish. Every set of uninsulated or bootlace tools that I have come across have been good quality in comparison
Can you eat shared glass? Yes! Can you put your arm into molten aluminum? Yes! Will everything be fine afterwards? No! Well ... to be fair - though I have never eaten glass nor washed my hands with molten metal - I did crimp solid wires. I know where they are and I look at them every now and then. They are fine. I would not do it if I could not check them up easily.
@@efixxwhen will the follow up video be up guys? Really enjoyed the video! But it is important to see the context of what makes a good crimp aside from the crimp vs tool
what brand is the butt connector? I have used the same hilka made cheap crimper but the connection that I am getting is not very strong. I have doubt on my butt connector. please advise.
A good electrical crimp should form a "gas-tight" seal between the terminal and wire strands. I don't believe you will achieve this using a solid wire, as the solid wire cannot be compressed as easily as a bunch of small stranded wires.
