Solid roller 400 SBC build update! What is a Gen1 Small Block Chevy Water Bypass? 

An old racers trick on the oil pick up to weld 2 pieces of key stock on each end of the oil pick up screen just incase big wheel stands this keeps the pan from smashing down & cutting off the oil supply . Love the content keep up the great videos.🙂

Dang brother were the same age. We grew up in the 80's and in my opinion the greatest decade to grow up in. Keep it up man I really enjoy your videos and I'm building a 96 S10 with a pretty stout 355

My honest opinion is that your opinion of the back cylinders running hotter is spot on and your system is going to really help with making all the cylinder temperatures be more consistent with each other!!! Looking great bro!!

They also drill an outlet between the center cylinders to pull hot water from the heads. My SB2.2 has all those goodies done to it. Old Earnhardt Jr. Motor that was sold to...... this guy😊

I ran the same set up for my SBC. 14:1 compression and pretty big solid roller driving on the street. I’ve had to learn a lot to keep it cool in traffic. You rock!

you will be happy that you installed the rear bypass. I usually run mine to the waterpump manifold bypass.

That guy told you right. They do restrict flow when set like you've done. Take a look at the old nascar set ups. They did it correctly and had a special thermostat housing made for those hoses to connect to right at the exit point. Nascar paid thousands in R&D, just watch what they do.

Hot water wants to go up like hot air so the best way to route it is use a thermostat housing from summit that raises the thermostat up about 4 inches and feed the lines from the back up hill to it. It makes an easyer path for the water to flow, The housing is made for a thermostat to fit it.

thank you! I was thinking of doing a similar pipe routing. thank you for confirming this is good to do.

Nice set up I've seen these before. I believe it was the lt1 I saw they ran hoses out the front and the back of the head. This was racing application of course, also seen guys use colder plugs in the back 2 cylinders but that was under boosted applications. Pretty cool to see and watch. Thank you for an awesome and informative video. I wanna hear her fire up 🔥,

I find plumbers putty is a sure fire/easily found means of getting clearance on a number of things. Love the one piece pan gaskets, but I think they are 0.140" on the rails, where the old cork style was 0.090" thick [plus whatever sealant put down]. 1/2" is beautiful for that pan, by the way: no chance of hitting a pumping limit at high rpm from starvation/cavitation.

Always love your videos I wish you would put some new ones out I picked up another 406 short block a few weeks ago it's a 2 bolt main I'm ok with that but it's got stock rods some as soon as I get a fee things out the way I'm going to get a whole other rotating assembly with good 6 inch rods and forged pistons I'm going to set it up for nitrous I'm only going to make it about 11 to 1 compression so I can run pump gas.

Love your vids! Keep them coming... mineral water helps. Thanks for the bypass info

An important note to keep in mind. Play dough will have a tendency to "Rebound" and not always be as accurate. Modeling clay is a bit better but a square and tape measure is still the best option. As for using clay, spray a little Pam on the pan bottom to keep it from sticking. Works for claying piston-to-valve clearance as well. You should easily be able to run 5 qts in the pan and one in the filter. I've never understood those people that spend all that money to try and get the oil farther away from the rotating assembly, only to "Fill-er up" and make the frothing (aerating) problem even worse. Another quick tip...An 8" zip-tie makes a great go-nogo gauge for clearance on the rotating assembly. Easy and we all have thousands of them laying around.

That's especially true for big blocks.

Water being a fluid not compressible will not stop flow in a passage unless there is air in there,the air can allow the flow to be interrupted. It will flow according to the passage size and volume. So that being said small hoses flow small volume.

That was a good video thank you for sharing

lookin good brother

Great video

It would look nice to weld some aluminum tubes on one that isn't pre tapped

Always work first, only place money come from for more car parts!

Mine ran hotter with those hooked up. Think I had too much flow and the water was bypassing the center of the heads. Smaller line may have fixed it but I just unhooked it and plugged everything.

I wonder if I might ask you about your converter,I had Coan build one for me to try and get it right the first time or even close but they listened to maybe half the info I gave them and missed it by a country mile.i watched you run your truck at 9.9 and wondered if you would share that as I have to start over

Maybe the pickup is for a high volume pump which is taller.

I have a small block 400 bored over to a 406 solid cam what’s your opinion on blocking the two water passages on the back of the intake?

Good info 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 Looking good !!!

Not gonna lie that dog quick

Ĺove all your videos I been thinking about putting my big block in a S10 I'm just thinking it might be a Lil to nose heavy I really hate to stuff it in my 88 SS monte carlo I think I want to build a 406 or 421 for that. I sure wish I knew what you do about nitrous.great video your friend from Louisiana Rick 427

Really like your detail on the intake install series. Re: the water bypass, could you please update this with the part numbers that you used? Its hard to see where the lines cross under the plenum, i assume you used a 3way union under there to join the black hoses? (and is it AN4 or 6?)

If your hot rodding, Can never run too cool.

Great explanation on this video. Would u recommend that water bypass on a daily driver, or is this mainly for race??

Your gasket should tell you the compressed size

Ya only got part of the cooling equation you also machine the intake near the heat crossover, drill/tap into the cylinder head water jacket tie it into the lines running to the front, on both sides of the front crossover Drill/tap -4 fittings into either side of the water pump just before it bolts to the block drill/tap -4 fittings into the water jacket just below the siamese exhaust ports, this gets rid of the actual hot spot between the two exhaust valves, further cooling tricks that work well on the street take a look at a sprint motor and to completely understand it read the bible smokeys power secret's, about splitting the cooling between cylinder banks and reversing the cooling running the coolant into the cylinder heads first, it was done long before reverse cooling the second gen lt1

What rocker arms did you us on AFR heads

Hello glad i found your channel, is this where the seasoned guys go? lol Putting together a 94 Sonoma ext. cab out of NC. for street and maybe strip if i get to putting a cage in it.

Awesome video, did you also have the steam holes drilled in the head on the 400? Or is it not necessary now with the bypass?

I have an 880 Vortec long block i built for a CJ-7. Have a Vortec RPM intake and electric water pump. Block has 3rd bypass hole. How would I plumb this and use the Jeep heater core/hoses? Plug 3rd hole in the block and use the intake's 2 plugged coolant ports to connect the heater core? It's a ProForm sbc electric water pump. The most common answer when searched, seems to be, plug the bypass hole in the block and then drill small holes in the thermostat. But I can't find an article that addresses all issues together at the same time. Connecting a heater core, plugging the block's bypass hole, and drilling the thermostat holes. Just looking for ideas and opinions. 1st obvious answer is the 3rd hole has to be plugged regardless of whatever I do if I want to use an electric water pump on a Vortec long block. But routing the heater core has me flustered to be 100% honest. I tend to overcomplicate things but I just don't want to screw this up by doing something stupid by overlooking an easy solution. Living in the mid-Atlantic I wanna have heat this winter AND plumb this bypass so as not to make the cracking issue worse for these heads. Thanks for the video and sorry for being long-winded.

Do you like tha milodon windage tray?

I'm about to do this to mine. Any update?

Is that water bypass good for just the 400 sbc or is it good for any sbc

Hey man What intake do you recommend I have a 406 in my s10 I have eldebrock air gap on it now ?

Awesome video are using the Optispark or did you convert it

I’ll race that dog lol 😂