SOLVED! 4 Blink Error Sony OLED XR-77A80J 

Hey that's great to hear! And you have a 1 Year warranty with our repair.

My pleasure!

Glad I could help. If you need any help let me know.

@Nick how can I send you my board for diagnose ? its a long shot my guess is panel is probably bad with my luck.

Sorry for the delay in my response, I haven't had a chance to check comments recently. We have a testing and diagnostics listing that's $20 + shipping that I will link below if you are interested in sending the power board. nickselectronics.com/products/diag-and-testing

@@NicksTVRepair yea sure I can send you the power supply board!! Thanks bud.

I have not built my own, but from what I understand they are fairly simple circuits. Yeah, I like this one because it has the red light which indicates visually when the caps are fully discharged. It's not very expensive, fairly simple but you have to buy it from Aliexpress so it takes a few weeks to arrive.

Happy to help

Wait so that fully fixed it? You don't have it shut down anymore? What about that line you had pop up?

@chromasonictv6369 do you mean when you tested those 2 transistors they were good ? but were still bad ? so you changed it out ? and that fixed the issue ?

Yes, the 2 transistors he tested on his board were not shorted like in my video, and yet they were still the source of the failure is what he is saying. Replacing them fixed his 4-blink code which would only occur after the set ran for 30 minutes. So it was still the same fault and the same repair but the symptoms were just less severe.

For the newer tv. Grounding out the BL ERR pin does not stop the blinking error on this does it?

Correct I have also noticed that. I don't know why that is different on these than the older models. I wish it was still the case.

Thank you for the update. Yes I look forward to hearing of the conclusion with this one. I know you probably want to avoid it if you can but I did see that there are some replacement power supply boards on eBay for $150. I also noticed that when you type in the part number of the power supply in the encompass website, they state they are out of stock but they have the transistors for sale K3R2A10PL. When you click on the transistor however it's out of stock. I just find it ironic that encompass is very well aware of this issue as they have a listing for that transistor.

Let’s us know when you find out a way to ground out the blinking error on this!! :). The old way of grounding out the error code does not work. I think Sony may have switched it up.

I think so as well. I have tried it on a few of the newer models without success so far. If I find out why I will let you know.

@@NicksTVRepair brother I went through your link and sent you the power supply board today for diagnostic.. you should get it sometime next week.. keep me posted on what you find.. thanks again for the help.

As soon as we get it and process it into our system you will receive an email. Of course we also update you as soon as we complete our diagnostics and will discuss repair options from there.

Yes the K3R2A10PL

Then it is likely that your mainboard is defective as it is common for a power surge to travel via HDMI cables, ethernet cables, and other low-voltage lines that don't have any sort of surge protection system in place. However, if you did want to send in both your mainboard and your power supply for us to test and diagnose in case both were affected, we can do that for you as well. We charge a $20 bench fee. If you have more questions, I would recommend you reach out via our support email which is simply support@nickstvs.com or if you check out the video description there will be a link to our contact page as well.

I am curious as to what ends up happening. Let me know if that takes care of it or if you find something else. Also if you don't end up figuring out what is wrong with it but a new power supply fixes it, could I send you a prepaid label and have you ship the board out to me so I can take a look at it and perhaps do a follow-up repair video?

Yeah that is odd. I feel like if the panel was failing due to a line it would be the pixels failing not the LEDs and thus it should be triggering a 5 blink error code not a 4 blink. Unless Sony made a change to the blink codes for the J year.

Mine would shutdown after a hour or so and then it got worst. Now when you turn it on u see the white led indicator for a brief sec and the it would click off and you hear the relay clicking off and tv goes into 4 Blinking red…. Btw did you get this fixed yet?

They are Transistors. More specifically they are N-channel Mosfets. Here is more info on them: www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Toshiba/TK3R2A10PLS4X?qs=d0WKAl%252BL4KZCUaVLI%252Bm%252BoA%3D%3D

They are in parallel

Seems low what is the issue

I'm glad to hear that resolved the fault. It's extremely rare to see those types of components fail partially but not all the way.

@@NicksTVRepair I sent my power board for you guys to test and all was good. I put the power board back in TV and at first I keep getting 4 red blinking lights and I unplugged all cables from Tconn and then turn them back now TV got 5 blinking red lights. lol so I put all cables back to orignall now TV booted up without issues so I go and setup everything like scan antenna and while watching TV I think i was able to watch it for a good 40+ mins then TV shut down.... 4 blinking lights. so I press power on my remote and it will come back on.. and then you can watch it for about 20 min this time ... then it automatically shut down... this time after it shutdown.. nothing no standby lights no respond to remote, no response to power button on the TV.. nothing... I left it plugged in... fast forward next day around 2 PM I hear a click sound from the TV and it just does its 4 blinking red lights again... so I power it off and back on... and TV will play for about 10 mins and then eventually shutting down and cycle continues 4 red blinking lights. but I do notice on the right side of the TV a about 5 inches inward to left there is a straight black line from top to bottom very noticeable. can it be those transitors going bad ? should I replace those 2 that has been replaced in this video ? do you think that is the problem ? or display panel ?

Yeah this was our first time fixing a 4 blink code for a Sony OLED TV. 99% of the time it's a screen failure which is not economical to fix, so it was nice for once to be able to fix that type of fault. Especially on a 77" OLED TV. Those things are very expensive.

If it has a red line then most likely it is a panel fault. You can try grounding out the error line or disconnecting it, but I fear that may not resolve the fault and the set would still turn off. Are you getting a 4 or 5 blink error code?

4 blink code after 30 mins picture is outstanding line is intermittent I have done that fix on lots of Sony tv sets This is Sony country here

Yeah I don't know then. It's possible the transistors on your power supply haven't fully failed yet but are on their way out. If this TV was in my shop I would replace those 2 transistors anyways and see what happens. Other then that, I don't know if I can help you wihtout having the power supply in front of me to troubleshoot it myself.

It's possible either the LED driver board is defective, or that one of the wires/ribbons is not properly seated. Do you have an LED tester you can use to make sure the LEDS are all working? If the LEDs you installed are used, it's very possible the leds are bad. Sometimes the TV screen is cracked because the TV started to have problems such as backlight failure and the owners didn't want to get it fixed. So they throw the TV away, and at that point don't care if they crack the screen since it's trash. They toss the TV out, and someone grabs it thinking the parts are good inside and the crack in the screen is the reason people tossed it out. Then they sell you the parts saying it's good and working and taken from a cracked screen not knowing if the parts are good. I am confident half the parts sold on eBay are from cracked screens that had other issues unknown to the sellers. We often buy parts from eBay when there are no other options and often they are bad parts from sellers saying they were taken from cracked screens so all the internals are good...

@@NicksTVRepair I bought the backlights from shop Jimmy, but they only had a replacement. The original light in segment of 4. But the replacement the first 4 don't light up with the tester but they light up when you power the tv on, but a few seconds later 4 blinks come on. I already purchased a led driver bord. Going to check the ribbons. Thanks again for the reply and advice

If they don't light up with the tester then either you are not properly testing them or they are bad. I would recommend taking a closer look at the circuit, how it works and make sure you are testing them correctly. Testing one circuit one way on the TV may not work for another part of the LED circuit. If you still can't get them to light up then test them 1 strip at a time or even 1 LED at a time and make sure you get identical voltage and amperage draw on all of them.

So is it good then minus the line?

A 5 blink error code can be caused by a defective Mainboard, T-con or screen failure.

Used to be bright orange color? So you watched the exact same movie with the exact same settings in the exact same fashion meaning is was always via a Blu-ray? It wasn't via a streaming service before and now Blu-ray or vice versa? Are you sure you didn't have any different settings on the TV prior? Is this only an issue with that specific scene on that movie? Or are the colors muted on all picture all the time? If it's only that scene then it's not going to be an issue with the TV. At least I don't think so.

@@NicksTVRepair Yes everything is the same. No changes in setting and I watched it on 4k blu-ray player with 4K disc. I noticed on darker seen only . It's seems like the auto dimming was applied. There's a video I found on youtube from HDTV test channel he said on OLED TV this is happening to prevent permanent burn in on the screen. he tiltle of the video is 5 bizarre things that only happen on Oled TV. I hope you can watch it. Thank so much for the reply.

I have an LG OLED right now at the house but I don't really mess around with the settings to much. I know how to fix them very well but when it comes to some of the finer settings I am not as familiar.

@@NicksTVRepair I have a Best But service plan Im wondering if they can't bring the HDR on this TV do you think they will replace the unit because you bought the TV because of its feature right to give you a good quality picture?

Sounds good I am very curiouse as to what the results will be

Многого сделать вы не сможете, потому что это модель OLED и заменить в них светодиоды нельзя.

Yeah I think that only really works on the older sets. I don't understand why that is but that's what I seem to have also noticed.

I don't know how to do that, if you tell me how I can do a video on it.

I know it's a pain but if the transistor replacement doesn't fix it, I would say just to play it safe since this is a bit outside the normal failure would be to fully replace the power supply. Just make sure to buy one that has a return option so you can send it back and get a refund in case it doesn't work.

I am still keeping an eye out for a mainboard repair for the XR series and as soon as a customer brings one in with a defective processor chip we will do that repair and show it on camera. We just haven't had the chance to come accross one yet.

What symptoms are you experiencing with your unit? Are you also getting a 4 blink code just as shown in the video or something else? Give me a bit of time, I have to reopen the TV up and check the voltage reading going to the LED driver. Also it's possible that for the 65" you may have a different output voltage than the 77". Its also possible that because you have the K and mine is a J meaning different manufacturing year, that they changed how they do it from year to year. But regardless I will double check and report back to you.

For this model I am getting just above 23v so yeah it's supposed to be 24v give or take 1v. Might just be my meter that is off a bit.