They say “learn from your mistakes”, but it’s easier to learn from other people’s mistakes, especially if an expert is explaining what those are 👍🏼 Love your work man ❤️👍🏼
Bah! This is nothing. A few days after we moved into our house we noticed a leak under our kitchen sink. I discovered that the previous owner had tried to fix a leaking strainer basket by wrapping a plastic bag around the parts and then smearing everything with something like roofing pitch. It took about 2 hours to clean up the mess and 10 minutes to put new parts in.
Tip. At 6:44 the sprayer weight should be positioned a couple inches up the hose on the side you'll be pulling up.. having the weight centered at the bottom causes pinch points in the hose and definitely will cause leaks.. had to fix previous "professional" installer's work after a big puddle developed on my kitchen floor..
@@itsgabegutierrez Those types are just like donuts and don't put hard bending pressure on the hose. They aren't elongated and clamped to the hose like what is shown in the video.
That last one was a real mess. I’d gut the piping AND cabinet & start off fresh & new. I never mix different kinds or types of pipe. That to me is just asking for a problem down the road. Haven’t had any experience with pex piping as of yet but it seems to be gaining traction from what I’ve seen recently on various channels. Great job as always. Keep ‘em coming. I still have a lot more to learn.
my whole house is pex. Someone updated it because my house is an old lath and plaster house (which is horrible in the winter with baseboard heat) I've repaired a couple small things around the house, I think pex is definitely the way of the future with water lines because damn it's easy. My 11yr old could install pex. lol
I'm a professional plumber. On the west coast we were able to start using pex about 15 years ago. I used that almost 99% of the time since done with 0 problems periods.
I think I caught pretty much all the mistakes. That being said, I watched it all because your style is very entertaining and you always have interesting/clever things to say.
@@Got2Learn Question, I bought an off brand rainfall shower head/wand combo. It came with an inline universal filter. I normally wouldn't even install it, but when it's installed it brings my showerhead out further so me being 6'1 can stand under it and not be at the front of the shower. I've tried taping it 3-4 times, I've tried taping it 6-7 times, I've tried taping it 10 times. It still leaks. Any tips to get plastic to seal better to metal?
@@Got2Learn it comes with gaskets, but the metal connection is like a compression style so it tears the gasket up. I'll tear it apart tomm and get you some pictures. I appreciate you!
Just a note about the fifth disaster in your video. That drain structure wouldn't work on the moon any better than here on earth. The moon has gravity, too, albeit not as strong as that here on earth. Water won't flow uphill ... full stop. And where there is no gravity (i.e., on the International Space Station), a vacuum has to be used to induce water flow because otherwise it doesn't flow anywhere at all,
Metal ice water lines can kink easily. Not so sure plastic is all that bad, as long as you use an insert to be prevent over compression with the ferrule
Plastic gets brittle and will deteriorate. Never saw 1/4 in braided but sounds as if that is a good idea. All lines can/ will kink if manipulated. Good luck
In #3, the outlet may be GFCI protected upstream from the outlet. Just because the outlet itself isn't a GFCI outlet does not mean it's not protected. A simple outlet tester should have been used on the outlet to verify if it's protected or not.
That is possible, but it’s common practice for a dishwasher to have a dedicated circuit breaker, with no other receptacles on that circuit except for maybe the garbage disposal. So it’s unlikely to be GFCI protected up stream - except for if the circuit breaker is a GFCI breaker. Exceptions, exceptions …
@@stevebabiak6997: Yes, I was even thinking of a GFCI breaker when I said "up stream." Another thing is that it doesn't say when that house was built. If it was 20 years old, and maybe not quite that old, the under sink outlet for the garbage disposal and the outlet for the dishwasher weren't required to be GFCI, just the ones above the sink. In fact, the dishwasher outlet is usually behind the dishwasher. In that location, if it was a GFCI outlet, you wouldn't be able to reset it if it tripped. If protected, it would have to be upstream somewhere.
GFCI protection under a sink (with cabinet doors) is not required until NEC2020. So, if the state this is located in is not or was not under NEC2020 when this was installed, then it's perfectly legal /grandfathered until the state goes under NEC2020 and a major change is made under the sink (remodel). However, the exposed feeding cable should be in a cable sheath beyond the cable's own.
as an electrician ill tell you the outlet could be gfi'ed at an upstream location even at the braker itself however I doubt it far more important is that the wire is not sleaved at all and could suffer damage from most anything causing a short at best
I kinda like you. I'm a barber 42 years. I too look for simplicity in my work. No two jobs are alike but proper planning and execution (Bad barber word?) always make for a happy, returning customer.
That last one and the third one combined would just about sum up the kitchens sink drain I worked on about a month ago. I replaced everything from the strainers all the way to the wall. All the plumbing was those cheap DIY kitchen sink kits. And every joint leaked so someone had put putty around all the joints. My headache started while replacing the faucet, I bumped the drain plumbing and it fell off, while it could be put back temporarily it wasn't going to stay. As I dug I found the strainers had nothing sealing around them. The plumbing had 7 threaded joints (it was quite the cobbled job) and all of them leaked, hence the putty on all of them. And to top it all off every horizontal pipe had a noticeable angle in the wrong direction, and just like the your last example, it was due to where the dishwasher was hooked up.
The other problems are the use of this particular line for the icemaker, that stuff will eventually fail, valves are required by code at toilets , dish and clothes washers, at water heaters and on the main waterline coming into the house. They are not required at sinks, basins or tubs/ showers
Put my Home Depot tub install on the install. The people they used were absolute jackasses. The guy put the wrong tub in then cut all the wall panels crooked as hell leaving huge uneven gaps at the bottom. Then the guy crushed my spout pipe where the spout screw locks it on. Then my shower head started dripping which it wasn’t doing before. By the time they had to send a local company out to correct their screw ups and got the other tub and wall panels it took about 6 months of hell. I’ll never let Home Depot or Lowes do any work for me again.
we use pipe dope on threads as a torque compound. We have the dope on hand anyways and is safe for potable use, in lieu of a torque or thread lube. In short we use it to ensure the threads aren't binding. (excluding flare connections)
Thank you for making videos that not just laugh at the attempt, but actually offer an advice. Obviously, if anyone feels it's beyond their skill level, by all means call a plumber. But if you're willing to pay attention and learn....maybe you CAN do it yourself....
the garbage disposel may be gfci protected down stream from another gfci outlet or best case scenerio its a gfci breaker they do make them so if you dont see the reset buttons on the outlet check for another gfci means
Saddle valves aren't notorious for leaking. Its been 30 years and I've never seen one leak. I have 5 in my garage that have been there for at least 40 years. The sink with a copper s-trap may not be code, I would never do it, but I bet it works just fine. 5:03 This configuration you made with a redline is just as bad as some of the other crazy things you are showing. When the DW is that far away from the sink you either use an air gap or put the drain loop alongside the DW. The whole point of this is to prevent dirty drain water from falling back into the DW and being used in the final rinse cycle. Overall this is a great video, lots of crazy things.
I have gone into home depot for water tap for ice/water and have only been given saddle valves. That say that's the only way to do it there is no other item they carry.
The Chinese guys who set up the domestic branches in my friends house ran out of reducer couplings, so they soldered 3/4" copper pipe to a 3/8" copper pipe to a 1/4" copper pipe. Just one after an other, sitting inside the next pipe in the line. It leaked.
I see a lot of bad youtube videos with people doing their own plumbing and making many mistakes. The picture with the copper S trap looks like it is from a different country and alot of countries allow s traps.
I have a saddle valve for my ice maker for the past 46 years and it has never leaked or given me any problems. They are fast, cheap and problem free!!!!
Was looking forward to the solution for the kitchen sink at the start of the video. Most of the top of the metal sink was flexing. I was interested in how that would be fixed in addition to the loose faucet.
Best bet is to good an EXCELLENT quality faucet (less tolerances) and to make the it's installed properly on a solid base or they all wobble. I've seen some models that actually come with a reinforcement bar that screws into the wall but they are rare.
I redid the plumbing under my kitchen sink. I get the feeling my pics could make your worst jobs list.:-P lol However it doesn't leak, and the old copper I pulled out fell apart in my hands so it is an improvement on some level. The old drain line had ABS glued to PVC and it was duct taped with dry rotted tape. While my new job looks better to me, I am sure I probably made loads of mistakes too. I stood in Lowes probably for a solid hour playing with drain parts to figure out my puzzle of what I needed. A couple of employees saw me standing there (I am female and definitely looked confused), they tried to help but they didn't know much more than I did. I still need to cut a new wood piece for the cabinet bottom which is rotted from the old leaks and I also need to get help for changing my outlet to GFCI. I found out fast why the dishwasher outlet has to be a high loop as it didn't run right until I raised it. LOL
@@216trixie I had no idea of anything about it. I have no idea of why it did the way it did, but all I knew was it didn't eject right until I did that. I assumed it back flowed or something.
Hi. I work as a handyman and get frustrated that water heater plumbing is always super corroded. Shouldn't the tank always be isolated with brass fittings?
It won't clog the pipe, that only happens when you use an airgap. And that only happens because the airgap has a way to spit the water out when it detects the slightest resistance. It usually dumps the dirty water all over your counter because nobody knows to point the opening in the airgap cover towards the sink. If you weren't using an airgap the pump on the DW is more than powerful enough to never let a clog happen within the pipe.
Man I'm no plumber but some of the stuff you showed in this video matches some of the stuff I've seen in person and had to fix. and it gives me nightmares to think a supposedly licensed plumber did this stuff. I do property maintenance for multiple apartment properties and before me they used to have a specific plumber fix leaks and such. And now I've had to come behind this plumber and fix many many code violations in the way this guy did the plumbing. Can't tell you how much accordian drain pipe I've removed. I've even seen several sections stacked to create a p trap. I keep asking myself what that guy was smoking when he did some of this stuff.
As far as GFCI goes, you should first check that it isnt already protected by a GFCI outlet upstream. In kitchens it is common to have the dishwasher outlet and counter outlet on the same leg as the GFCI outlet by your sink. You should not connect 2 GFCI outlets in series on the same leg.
Tighten the nut at the base of the spout if it has one. And if it’s mounted on a stainless steel sink well it’s probably the the sink it’s self flexing. You have to replace the sink with one that is made of a thicker gauge metal.
first time i tried a saddle valve overtightened crushed pipe and the main shut off didnt work i was like smh i knew i should have just soldered a valve on lol today there is the sharkbites. ive used a few after 6 yrs or so they are still fine i used in a basement that i can check on constantly and if they leak nothing important can get damaged
@Got2Learn what video editing software do you use? Your animated videos are great and I'm looking for something to make similar animations. You've taught me tons, thanks for doing what you do!
Wow I'm shocked there is no electricians in the comment section below, not only do you need a GFCI, you cant have romex exposed like that. Need to install MC cable or any other wiring method will do but not Romex. *wire Protection.
definitely could have saved some fittings on that pex with all those 90s, but after all, that is pex b. Not as flexible as pex a. There's technically nothing wrong with how it was ran, but it could look better for sure
7:15 I would replace basket strainer picture your whole job as adding years to the customer current fixtures if u know 7-10 years and it's already having issues make the issue disappear by installing y at the wall with a access for easy snaking for kitchen line witch in my opinion top used sewer lines
the reason people use saddle valves is because they don't know how to braze, and they're easy to install. they're also a bad idea. if brazing isn't your bag, try Sharkbite fittings. Also, electrical, in most homes built in the last 5 years or so, receptacles in the kitchen are all on a GFCI protected circuit, with a GFCI breaker installed in the electric panel. Adding a GFCI outlet under the sink may be redundant, you don't want that. Its best to test the outlet with a ground fault circuit tester, if that tester trips the breaker, then youre protected there.
The 3rd one, that adaptor for the copper was the wrong one since you've used ABS glue joints. If it was just a standard plastic ptrap your adaptor would have worked. Or am I wrong? Just asking.
4:50 in my old apartment complex, McAdams, Houston, they did that very thing, causing all the waste to go into the dishwasher. Absolut amateurs are making buildings in America.
Love all your videos but wanted to comment on #3 - that dishwasher drain is run into a waste disposal unit which has a fitting for the dishwasher built in. It's very common to see this style of connection
Yup number 2 S trap allowed in the UK and it looks lovely, if it works its not a problem and it's not quite an S with it being long and probably works OK. Also mostly we are combi here in the uk so just turn the sp tap off or if tank there is a tap in airing cupboard problem solved and still looks nice
Plumbing should be plumb and square even if running pex. Only schleps with no pride in their work run pipes as the crow flies, and never use plastic ice maker lines as they oxidize and break, copper is always best.
I love self fusing tape, just wish it was a bit less expensive. A good quality electrical tape works incredibly well for stopping leaks in drain pipe, and on suction hoses. With enough wraps of a good stretchy electrical tape, you can even stop leaks in pressurized lines like a garden hose. One day my friend woke up to find his basement wet and stinky, the big fat cast iron drain pipe that goes to the sewer had started to leak. Time, settling foundations, and corrosion led to it developing a two foot long crack along the length of it, just above the basement floor. He called me up freaking out, not knowing what to do, I think he just called me because he knew I was good at fixing stuff in general, cus I've never been a plumber. From how he described the problem, I figured i better grab a couple rolls of electrical tape and head over there. I carefully & tightly wrapped a few feet, the entire cracked section, of that big old cast iron pipe with 3M Scotch Super 33+ electrical tape, and the day was saved! Told him he was gonna need to get someone to replace that drain pipe in the near future, but it should hold for a while. He was so relieved about being able to flush the toilet and use the shower again. Eventually he moved, not sure if he ever got the thing fixed properly or not... So if you're ever in a pinch and dont have any fancy silicone tape, try electrical tape, you might be surprised with how well it works!
