I realize I'm late to the party here, but I wanted to thank you for sharing this nice useability upgrade for older lathes. I saw your problems with the locking collar where the set screw raised a burr. I ~think~ most of these machines came with a little brass plug that sat underneath the screw so that the screw crushes the brass instead of the shaft. Those plugs get lost really easily during rebuilds so its common to find old machinery where the plugs are MIA. Cheers
The correct way to mount a collar without marring the shaft is to put a piece of brass roundstock under the setscrew. At no time should setscrews be allowed to make direct contact with a precision surface such as a shaft, unless there's a flat surface machined specifically to accommodate a setscrew. Unless these precautions are taken the shaft will further damage the inside of bearings or bushings when removed or put back in place.
I recently purchased a Grizzly 4003G metal lathe. I have been watching your videos and have learned an awful lot from you already. Thanks for making these videos as they are very informative.
You could also grind a shallow flat on the shaft where the bushing binds onto the shaft so that the next time you have to remove the shaft, the burr won't gaull the bearing surface.
The belt .. absolute classic .. dont kow how many times ive put together the spindle of my lathe just to end up forgetting the belt :P or get the belt on the wrong side of the bull gear (its V belt converted). Those oilers are sweet =)
Oh good! I made a head stock "spider" several years ago. I put little brass tips (press fit) into the ends of the eight bolts so that the ends of the bolts would not mark the surface of rifle barrels while turning in my Sheldon lathe.
I really enjoy your videos. I have been curious about the oilers on your lathe for a while now and just found this one. They look fantastic, but more importantly, they seem functional. Great video. I laughed out loud as you forgot the belt, but rest assured- I would have forgot it also. keep posting.
They work great and all I have to go is crack them and give it a couple of drips before I use the lathe. Before I was over oiling and getting that oil line up the wall like everyone has :-)
The oilers look nice and the price was right Don't Feel bad about the belt I have done it afew times on older cars and it's always the inside one of 3 belts
May I suggest that you drill that shaft collar set screw and press in a small piece of brass rod. The brass will never raise a bur on that shaft again.
Are you tired of galling and maring your shafts with set screws? Here is a little hint. find some friends with shotgun shells. Get one from as many as you can making sure that you go by the shot size and not the gauge. You will want #9, 8, 7/12, 6, 4, and 2. Open up the shells and put the led pellets in a container marked with each size. These balls or "shot" are made of lead. Insert a lead ball that just fits inside the screw hole and then put in your set screw. The lead will conform to the shape of the shaft and hold it tight. No more marked up shafts!
................great idea and nice DIY work. Wonder what you could do with a larger machine with more capacity. Keep the great work coming.......................Rick
Have you tried brass tipped allen screws on the collar? The brass should not gall the shaft. I hope this helps. It might not be worth the extra effort as you don't take it apart that often. I should come apart much easier when the time comes.
If you’re still kicking around getting a South Bend 16 there’s a gentleman up by Chicago that has 2 for sale for around 1,600/piece. Both are double tumbler QCGB. 1 has an L-00 spindle. The other is 2 1/4-8 threaded. He has them posted on Letgo.
Nice video, as usual. Was laughing with you, not at you, about the drive belt. Been there, done that. Brass tipped set screws are great little addition to save shafts, if a guy's gonna be doing adjustments on a somewhat regular basis. Like the way those oilers look. Gives it sort of a vintage look. Wonder if the high dollar versions use glass, or plastic.
these are so steampunk cool I want to upgrade something with those oilers :( I do not even own a lathe, just mechanics/mechatronics student working on a family farm, modern tractors do not need those :D
I love your vids. Did you ever consider making something out of brass that pressed into the original holes on the counter shaft that the new oilers would screw into? That way you would not have had to drill out the original. Angry Yank Sacramento
much too big oiler, danger with such a setup is to have an oil mess due to overoiling or forgetting to close after work session. an oiler this size is enough to take care of the complete machine! a good idea !
Yes abcde123456 ....The Engineers at SBL specified the small gits oilers for a reason ...... Not only has the thin casting now been weakened greatly and now has several ounces of unsupported brass sticking out of the 2 holes which can vibrate and stress crack the iron casting .... A support bracket with ONE brass oilier mounted off the frame of the lathe and plumbed with 1/4 copper line going to a tee with an 1/8 line to each bearing might have been a better solution .... Good Idea I think you were on the right track
Another great video! Your "show and tells" provide first rate info to your viewers!! I'd never seen "felt" (?) oilers before and how they fit into the a slot/key way. If for some reason the one you removed proved to be serviceable, would a strip of thick felt be an acceptable replacement? Also, what method is used to cut the oiling groves into the ID of the casting? It looks like a thread of long pitch. Reminds me of rifling... Best wishes, Roy
Nice job although whosale tools was down the street-they moved out they had these for 10 bucks oh boy I should have bought them. now i need these, we have local Grainger but big bucks good job
My 1945 9A wear grooves are worse than yours and it still runs cool and quiet. My C/S only needs oil once a week (20+hrs), if that lol. One of these may be handy on the left spindle oil git, which always is running low, especially since I replaced the fiber washer with a needle bearing (spindle bearing is within .001). Do you think the needle valve could be left open for that application? Where did you purchase these?
So I just bought a South bend 9" model A and I have one question... the 2 cast bearings on the balancer pulley seem to have left little grooves on the part of the shaft that sits inside the bearings. Since there is no bearing caps and it just rides directly on the casting is that normal or do I need to find a new one?
That’s probably from under oiling in the past. As long as the shaft is stable in the bearing and not wobbling around in its bearing you should be fine. Just change your wicks and be sure to throw a few drops of oil in each bearing Oiler before you start to use it.
@@Halligan142 so I finally got the spindle out and I'm a little disappointed because there ended up being some marring on the inside of the bearing. Its not a lot and it doesn't seem to have marred the spindle much at all, whats your advice on that?
@@hustlerkc11 The spindle is way harder than the cast iron do if anything it'll smear some material on it. The gouge could have been again from under oiling. Run your finger on both sides of the gouge and make sure there is no raised material or burr. If there is get a fine round or half round stone and just knock those edges down. Clean everything up with some mineral spirits and change out your wicks. Put everything back together and check and adjust your spindle clearance and you should be good to go. The spindle is floated on a film of oil put there by the wick. Technically while running your spindle doesn't touch the cast iron. As long as the spindle has enough support your fine. You would really have to mangle the bearing and make it look like a washboard before it is no good.
Hammer and crowbar machinist, File the counter shaft in the housing and then just finish the assembly, no final cleaning like a professional, it would have been a good idea to polish the shaft before final assembly. There is a lot to be said for American products and a lot of negative for the chinese junk. Anyone who would contaminate a beautiful American made lathe with the chinese junk should be flogged. I will guarantee you that the chinese junk will come back to bite you in the a--. The first thing I can see is the foam filter at the bottom of the reservoir will break down and feed crap onto your bearings. I would replace that immediately with some felt that will hold up and do it's job. Good luck.
