General Machining, tips, "how-to's", and projects plus much more. Home shop friendly! Ever wonder what a smaller lathe can do? Subscribe and find out just how much can be done with a Home/Hobby shop sized lathe and equipment including a 9" Southbend lathe, Southbend 14" drill press, horizontal band saw and other odds and ends.
When I looked at the line from C to R and from C to S, I started laughing! I guess people can tell from the line whether you're right or left handed :).. well done over all.. I loved the video man.
My Bridgeport motor died so I bought a replacement, but it's got a .875" shaft versus .750". Now I can bore it out and cut a key in it on my Southbend Heavy 10 without a 200$ broach set, sweet!! Thank you... PS - To those that have a lathe, you can also but an end mill in your chuck, find a way to mount the shaft on your toolpost, and cutin the keyway 1/16th smaller than the actual size required; then on your final cut, switch to the 3/16ths or whatever end mill you need.
You missed a part, a very important one at that. The rotary shaft seal from the head of the motor. That is what, I believed, caused the water the go to the bearings after the mechanical seal failure. Also greasing everything with non water soluble grease goes a long way in terms of preventing a future problem.
I think it's gonna be a bit harder to align my tailstock vertically, the wear is uneven, the leading edge of the tailstock is worn significantly more than the rear of it, I think I'm going to have to use different thicknesses of shims to get it level, thicker in the front and thinner in the back
Thanks! Your video was great! 5 people before me already said ecerything to say! I am going to try stay brite 8 tomorrow. It should be interesting to find out if it holds on an 7.5 ton lennox discharge line. Yea get fittings. Stop using pipe. Not always able to stop and run to get what i need. Im nowhere near my full potential. Im struggling! limited extremly! what i carry 2 bags of random fittings but never seem to have everything anytime,and running my business out of my ford f×××king Ranger! Its hard loading/unloading. Camper shell helps. Need to get a van. Its embarassing at times but I try and keep my head up and think of my kids during those moments! Great camera work man!
This brought back memories of being my father's assistant (tool fetcher) when I was working with him when I was in HS. The biggest lesson that I learned was that lugging heavy stuff up and down ladders is no fun. At the end of several summers I also learned that being an HVAC tech was not for me. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the upload, glad to see you're still around! What do you think about the new split units everyone's installing all over the place? We bought 8 of them over the last couple years at my last job, about $200k worth.
The simple single zone ones from from the quality manufactures are a pretty good option for small spaces or single rooms. Us pro's were skeptical for many years, but there proving to be a good way to go when installed correctly. On the other hand: The larger multi zone mini's systems with a central outdoor unit....while they work good when everything is done right....God help you if anything goes wrong. (can be very complicated) Lot's of factors are involved, that's my nickels worth opinion.
@@superdansilverman We do strictly commercial some don't run into them as often as residential people. I get the idea. Great for places you have no access to for an air handler. What's weird is I've seen them installed in new home builds locally. Single coil units work fairly well. It's when you start adding multiple coils that we've seen the issues. Also in commercial environments my biggest problem is people playing with the thermostat and.hottimg every button imaginable and the unit freaks out. A ton of drain and condensation leaks, and they get absolutely filthy in kitchens.
very nice machine! at the highest speed you would be drilling using 1/32 or 1/64 or smaller drill bits. the smaller the bits, the faster the RPM to safely drill without breaking the drill bits. So its nice that the option is there. I would think you would heat up the bearings real quick and would prefer to have a dedicated smaller sensitive high speed drill press for that. I am currently on the hunt for one that has the 'onion head pulley cover, very cool look, even if I can get the head assy, I would be happy.
Very well done sir! The Stay-Brite #8 seems to be the best choice if you have to add an inline service port in a sealed system like what you encounter with residential type refrigerators as there is no way to do a nitrogen flow in those cases. I almost choked on having to spend $120 on a pound roll of it with the flux included, but I guess that comes with the territory. Too bad they don't make a 1/4 pound kit, a bit more affordable for the occasional user.
You mention a PTC (positive temperature relay). If the PCT stops the flow of current by temperature does it not cutback in when it cools down and then cycles the whole time the compressor is in use? I can now answer my question: The Standard PTC relay device has a PTC chip in series with the start winding. PTC or Positive Temperature Coefficient devices when cold, have a very low resistance, but when heated their resistance will go very high, a thousand times higher than when there cold. So when the compressor is ready to start, the PTC relay must be cold .so when power is sent to the compressor the power goes directly to the run winding and also to the start winding via the PTC device. Within a second or so of the compressor starting the power to the start winding is virtually cut out due to the PTC device rapidly being heated by the power drawn by the start winding. The power to the start winding is now virtually nothing ,simply a small current to keep the PTC device warm and the start winding out of circuit while the compressor is running. When the compressor cuts out the PTC cools down and it’s resistance drops to around 25ohms ready to restart. The PTC requires about 5 minutes to fully cool down so that it’s resistance is low enough to energise the start winding due to cooling demand.
I bought my Sears contact tabe saw new in 1983 for $283.91 it was a manager special, and I got $100 off I still have all the safety spliter and blade gard that every one throw away, I too had it off my saw until I had kicked back now I don't ripped without. it. I COULD OF BOUGHT A REAL TABLE CABINET OF ANY BRAND, BUT THIS SAW HAS SERVED ME WELL MADE A LOT OF NICE FRUNITURE WITH IT NOW A PART OF ME
Thank you immensely 👍 Mine is a 1951 birth & found you & can get mine flying soon. Extreme thank youuu for the parts list!!! Bought mine from a distant cousin,original owner was great uncle & barely used since new. Have the rest of Uncle Mud's Delta tools & planes all working as new!
Indeed this the best❤ video distinguishing between the two relays.. I agree with someone in the comment section.. Thanks 4 putting in the great effort Man🎉
I'm a DIYer and dreading to learn brazing just for a few maintenance joints I have to do. This was the best video on HVAC piping I have ever seen. Thanks.
the break off tab on your outlet is used for other ways too..most common is to use seperate circuits ( from Breaker panel ) to give you a better chance of not plugging two devices in at once.... your use is another ..to switch the outlet seperately from somewhere... i usually just use a plier to twist it off quickly...a few back and forthes to weaken it and twist it off...or twist off first try..lol
I just put my first A/C unit in. I used the #8 because I saw videos on the reliability, the limitations and the advantages. I was a bit intimidated by brazing as I was concerned about damaging the system with the heat. Your video has alleviated my concerns so Thank you sir.
Great instructional video 💯 I am a plumber but for a few years prior to the re-claimers and new HVAC gases were mandatory. I like that you mentioned open mesh cleaning cloth compared to sand paper, open mesh is the best to use. If I remember correctly, the hottest part of a torch is the sharp blue point, I’ve used Mapp gas, B tanks and Turbo torches, the MC tank is a handy option for tight spaces. Whenever I had to do 4” DWV copper pipe, I sometimes used 2 torches or would walk the solder around the pipe, but back then for waste lines 50/50 was allowed which helped with big pipes, but I would often try to cap it with 95/5, just an added layer of protection. Using silver stick soldering was part of my practical test. It’s an acquired skill that takes time to master. Another part of your video I appreciated was the difference between plumbers sizes and HVAC pipe and fittings along with the difference between M, L, & K copper. Despite years of working in my trade I still find I can still learn from Trade videos such as your video 👍
Alguien sabe si poniendo una salida RCA con las primeras conecciones sale o tengo que poner todos los sircuitos hasta el final o solo puedo tomar el audio y video y ponerle entrada RCA??
Stop calling it soft solder it is brazing solder it says it on the roll thats where the mistaken idea is it is not a soft solder it is a brazing solder so if we stop calling it soft solder it will likely be more acceptable it is a low temperature brazing compound
No it is a solder. Says so right on the roll. Any filler that melts below 450c (842f) is defined as a solder. Anything above is defined as a brazing alloy.
@@Halligan142 yes Halligan it is called a Brazing Solder not Soft Solder look at the roll description I'm sorry Halligan I'm mistaken it says Silver Bearing solder not Silver Brazing Solder I guess I want to change the description so it won't be connected to plumbing like Stay Brite one is nickle based and Stay Brite 8 is Silver so I concede I am mistaken but still think it should be described as a Brazing Solder then it would probably be accepted more for Brazing filler
Yeah it’s very helpful and easy fix too in a pinch you def have to heat that up more so if it a higher stress point I’ll heat up a portion of the crack enough to do a dime one first second third centering it in but I’ve seen people use axle grease to welds cast aluminum didn’t believe much in the method at first till I seen quality of work kind of but not really just in the sense iit protect the weld . A battery charger stainless steel plates like outlet cover liquid elc tape all stacked in series tickled by about ten amp off alternator using the vacuum for injection to pipe hydrogen generator by this simple install not bullishit seriously Il l give anyone my Toyota Camry if you can show me it doesn’t work literally within a couple of weeks the inside of your motor with be Perfectly lean Toyota doing a 3 cylinder version turbo puts out more ponies then it’s turbo older cousin
You actually want to prevent twist in the bed. Leveling is an easy way to establish that. Any twist will cause the headstock to not be aligned with the ways and will manifest itself by a taper in your turned piece.
I was buying the cheapest inserts on Amazon because I was just starting. It was infuriating trying to get a good finish. I bought some more expensive inserts from accusize, and it was night and day difference. Although the accusize is a lot more brittle than the cheap stuff, it leaves a nicer finish. I have had good luck with accusize tools they tend to be higher quality than most of the cheap stuff. When buying on Amazon, I find myself leaning towards that brand. It's not the best, but it meets the requirements for a farm!
Excellent excellent video! I was wondering how you do the left hand threads and BAM, there you go! Do you do work for the general youtube community? I have a 1" shaft I need threaded LH on the one end and RH on the other. Building a buffer. Thx
