I own the same vehicle. Distributor cap/rotor is another good replacement for when they start to run rough. Also, check out the throttle body mod for these vehicles. If you do a throttle body modification, you'll definitely get better response on the gas pedal. It's worth the time doing it. Thanks for the content.
Thanks for the tip! I need to do a tune up soon since its starting to run rough. I'm sure the cables and cap are next. I'll check my intake and look up the throttle body mod
im getting 10 mpg with my blazer. definitely planning on changing the plugs, per maintenance, no check engine light on atm Runs well though. i had to put in a new fuel pump, new fuel filter, oil change recently done, new air filter, and no extra weight in the truck, yet it still gives me crappier mpg than the big boy tahoes so hopefully the plugs will be it and nothing else like the injectors bc those look like a few hours worth replacing
After changing the plugs and wires and you still have bad mpg then it might be that you're losing fuel from the fuel pressure regulator. I've seen videos online where that and even sometimes the fuel lines that feed to the spider injectors leak due to them rubbing on each other. I get about 16/17mpg combine and was getting 15/14mpg on the bad plugs.
Just bought 99 Blazer with 4.3 got five plugs in left the steering column 1 for tomorrow. The wrench on the socket looks like a good way. Thanks for the idea. Took my wheels off too. Much easier. Used OBD scanner at O'Reilly. Said camshaft position sensor was bad also. Think I'm also going to get a camshaft position sensor also. Good video
@@secondhandspeed haha yeah, someone forgot to plug it in after I bought a new one and took the cap off. Can't see it until you take the cap off. Used that socket Had works great. Fires up in half a second and the RPM gauge works now
Week or two ago, I used the acdelco iridium 41-993 on my 99 GMC 4.3L. think that's original part? I found the readily available Lisle boot puller helpful since those boots were really baked on there - I just didn't have the leverage to pull 5 and 6. Used dielectric great to coat the ceramic as well as inside of boot so it's easier to push on (electrodes of course) since it's an awkward reach going thru the hood. That's a nice view with the wheel and wheel well removed. Anti-seize on the threads.
Two suggestions. Running the engine for the before and after sound and a follow up on the increased fuel economy. Other than that I loved the video but not looking forward to doing the job 😉. Thank you!
Thanks for the great tip! I didn't think about a before and after engine sound clip. My fuel economy increased by 2-3 mpg but that was just plugs alone. Good luck its a pain but well needed maintenance
Bro thank you so much. I will do this soon. The parts lists was a big plus. New sub here. Let's not forget to be careful to not cross thread the spark plugs. Thanks again
Doing this today on my 2000 GMC Jimmy and this vid helped a lot. Thanks so much! Edit: Drivers side middle plug is a huge PITA with the steering column in the way. I recommend you cut a 3/4 open end wrench in half to make things easier to turn cause a socket wrench will NOT fit. Other than that it wasn't too bad.
I have a 98 blazer LS. Noticed clicking noise from engine bay... upon searching ended up Finding front driver side spark plug really loose. Tightened it and clicking noise is gone. Nice vedio. Keep up the good work.
came here to see how to remove that one spark plug behind the steering shaft. ended up removing it, butttt do you know what it means when fuel comes out of the spark plug hole? lol
Not exactly sure but it could be the fuel line or spider injector is leaking from the intake valve. You’ll need to remove the intake valve and check for “clean” spots where gasoline cleans any oil or smudge stains