I think he was thinking that entering into the bottom would be better due to water ingress potential however I'd probably of gone in the side as that's more work for not much gain in my opinion but everyone does things differently!
I don't do it that way if I can avoid it. Like I've said numerous times things I do are based on previous experiences. when I install lights sockets etc in a straight line like this. I try to avoid passing the wiring through the fitting, because at a later date you go to change that item you have to get the exact same fitting to fit in that space. Depending on the span of time you may not be able to get one or you may get the same make but there are slight changes that prevents it fitting in the original space with this method you can install any fitting. Also is easy to terminate the cables into the box underneath if one has to be removed for a period of time.
I’m a sparks, and I really like the way you have used the galv boxes and the reason why. You can’t buy experience so thanks for sharing the tip Del. This would’ve been one of them jobs where I turned up to and thought I wish I quoted a little more 😂😂
@@Nick_Carlos I'd be more concerned about those bus bars not being connected properly and starting to arc.customer said only outside light's would be on the circuit,how would you know how much future higher loads wouldn't be introduced to that circuit? I'd have waked away. wouldn't put my name to that installation
@@Nick_Carlos If you look closely the bus bars are over lapped,with the new one just touching the original. have a look at around the 3 minute mark. then you'll realise why I'd have suggested ripping it out or walking away
@@dennisreid4428 just get a new bus bar. I'm sure we've all got one or two from old installs in the shed. I keep a few old mcbs, bus bars etc just in case I can't get one when I need it...
Oh my days. Looks like the buzz bar was 2 ways to short so 3 were added 1 to piggy back of the existing buzzbar giving another 2 ways. The question should be how was the swa terminated at the consumer end as it seems the video finished prematurely. Or is their a part 2 comming.
I think they're just moving in or renovating or both. You can see all the new doors and materials and you can see a guy erecting scaffolding at the back. It's not really important is it. I bet you're one of those annoying people who spends all day Sunday jet washing everything.
Delroy this might be a weird question but, i think you'd make a lot of money on her if you made another channel where you take these vids, get rid of the music and loud noises, and market it is Unintentional ASMR. The way you work and the way you talk is very soothing.
If that's a BG outside socket, those 20mm push out plugs are not waterproof as I have found out. They need to be pushed out and silconed back in, especially the top one's.
Delroy's a genuinely decent guy. He receives a lot of critism. Either way he's earning and has repeat custom. So I guess he must be doing something right. Atleast he has the courage & ability to put content out there. Gbu & keep the content coming Del.
Just out of interest, I am 50 years old now, and still to this day when I go to switch on at the fuseboard after a job, I always find myself thinking "let's see what happens eh?". Anyone else like that or just me?
Why didn't you just get a new bus bar and install a new RCD. Also isn't it considered a radial from the cu... Meaning if it's on a 32a then that's where the grey areas start...
@@sdgelectronics I'm not so sure... The main issue is you can't spur from a spur because you can overload the cable. You don't know how many sockets are in the chain. And if it's a 32a ring is not gonna trip the MCB until well past the list capacity of the cable... A single socket is rated at 20a... (Ironically near the same as the 2.5mm) There's nothing that specifically says you can't run a radial and ring off a single MCB... Even though not ideal ... This is also one of the reasons I'd use conduit. & 4mm t/e. But it's possible the MCB is 20a anyway.
Always nice to see different working practices. What was the reason of using swa over something like H07? i could understand if you were burying the cable.
I like the wago mk sockets. My house has got the old stranded copper and they are a pig to spur off so having the extra ways make it far more easier to spur.
Get yourself a marxman pen, drill out the back of all 4 mounting holes on the socket, put the socket to the wall level, then push the pen into each screw hole and it will mark the wall so you can do all the drilling at once and then you don't have to fit it twice 👌
I have one of those. On this occasion with these boxes to get them precise I find it better to drill the first corner get that fitted and level then drill the other 3 through the box that way it's sure to be level. With your method when you start the drill on hammer it can slip slightly and when the box is fitted it's out(not level).
Hi, I'd like some advice for a light installation that I want to do. I want to install a light that is very close to my consumer unit, but there are no sockets nearby where I could take a 3A FCU spur out of. Currently from my consumer unit, there is already an existing spur out of my immersion circuit breaker to a single socket which my wifi router is plugged into. My question is could I take a supply from this socket to a 3A FCU which I will connect next to this socket for which I could power the lights I want to install? Thanks in advance.
Hi, Never spur from a socket circuit to a lighting circuit. Even with a fused spur it wont pass regulations and can cause problems if anything were to happen down the line. Your best bet is to run a cable from your existing lighting circuit or run a new lighting circuit from the fuseboard. Thanks
@@davidkavanagh4966Hi, thanks for your reply. In essence, there are basically two radials circuits coming out of one MCB (immersion). The single socket was already there so I don't really understand why I'm not allowed to spur a 3A FCU from that.
@@kushalvijay6087 There's nothing against this i'm not sure why you've been told otherwise. You can spur off a socket, just use a 3A FCU. This is how many garages are wired with sockets/lights.
@@benjaminives397 Hi, even though that socket has been spurred off the MCB, it's okay? (It's like having two radial circuits coming out of a single MCB. Thanks
@@kushalvijay6087 the issue is about nuisance tripping of the MCB. I'm assuming the immersion is 20a MCB? In 2.5 mm you can run a multiple socket radial... But... Whilst the immersion is likely 13a give it take, it could trip... Depending on what's plugged in. 1.5mm clipped direct is good for 19a so a b16 is good enough. But. I wouldn't run a couple of sockets in 1.5 on a b16. It's common sense. What's likely to be plugged in there.
No need to seal the whole box, just behind each screwhole. Those conduit boxes WILL let in moisture, doesn't matter if you used a gasket, should've terminated the armours into the bottom of the sockets, how long is your labour guaranteed for? coz you're going to get a call back in a few years from those tripping the RCD.
@@darknessdestroyer5524 I know what causes RCDs to trip. And water in the conduit box sure isnt one of the reasons. You just trying to talk smack about Deltoy because you couldnt do it better yourself