Definitely. I know this is an older topic and Peter tried to appeal to a larger audience by keeping them short and concice. But I am sure there are enough amateur enthousiats that could listen to him talk for an hour about speaker combinations, locations, passive/active, etc. This is golden Information that could help many make the right decision when upgrading their stock setups.
Also beyond speaker placement, the right car can have a huge advantage in things most do not think about. German cars for example have benefits in internal and external noise control that is hard to achieve with dampening alone. Reflections minimized with specific materials throughout the cars interior and especially dash material designed to absorb reflections. Door cards are absolutely solid with minimal flex and sealed from the inner door. No 2 pieces of metal touching without rubber seal. An accumulation of these seemingly small details make a huge difference in SQ. Some cars are really designed to eliminate road noise and accentuate a quiet interior which is a plus for the ultimate car audio experience. Then the next guys door card is visqueen or even nonexistent. Good stuff Peter!!
Also wanted you to know , I tell all my installer friends about your builds Peter , I've been building and installing since the 80's , your builds are sweet , and out of the box with you (ib)set ups , guys he's second to none!!!
I used to have a Fiat Seicento in the early 2000s, it had 4" factory locations in the dash, I built enclosures in the doors for a 6.5" and ran an MB Quart 3 way set up. Even without any DSP it sounded great.
I have BMW E60 with Logic 7 subs and 4” mids plus Seas tweeters in seals with custom build A/D/S/ amplifiers and Helix DSP and the sound is pretty good. But I’m not stopping here of course next is IB subs! Thanks Peter for your videos they’re quite helpful mate!
As always Peter, great info on drivers. Those who follow and like you know how you are and don't mind the more in depth discussion you have. We see you have a passion for what you do and so do we which is why we are watching you. I say you keep doing you and if it takes awhile to get all the in for out so what.
thanxs for the info and looking forward to the next video's. Glad to see someone is taking the time to go deep into the SQ for us that (might want to compete) someday
Man it's been forever since this upload. Can't wait for 7.4 About to put in some 3 way 8s in the doors. Your videos are what I'm watching to mentally prepare myself. Mobile Dynamics 2005 MECP 2nd class
I like all of your build log videos but I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge during this series. I’ve shared it with a handful of work mates. Can’t wait to see more. Thanks Peter!!
👍👍👍 I can only assume the 1 thumbs down you got was from a child with nothing better to do. Haters are going to hate, even more so when there's nothing for them to hate on. They hate that.
Out of interest I'm currently building a mk3 golf not specifically for audio I am planning a small sq build using helix psix and helix mono amp for the sub, 3 way front stage using hertz mille pro 3way components for now and single rear helix q10w. I was planning to build a pillars for mids and tweeters but stock tweeter location is on top of the dash firing up at the windscreen and the way the stock tweeters and location are designed a 3 inch midrange would fit in the stock tweeter location. Would you utilize this location for the midrange rather than putting them builds in the a pillar?
Given the availability of powerful DSP are rear mounted midbass and wideband front mounted mid/horns more or less possible than in the late 90s, a la Speakerworks installs.
Great video Peter. Very informative. Busy with my mazda cx5 and what do you think of the centre speaker and tweeters on the dashboard . Or to go for left and right 4 inch mids and tweeters at the location of the factory tweeter location. Thank you
I realize you can't go into every detail on these sorts of things, but it is worth pointing out that many of the statements are generalizations. For example, for many cars the kicks are a terrible location for midbass, causing all sorts of peaks and nulls, and the doors can be a good place for them (with the caveats that you mention about having a rigid foundation). Two of the most dominate cars in the US have door midbasses for example. When I moved from kick to door midbass my raw response improved quite a bit. It is a quite common perception that the only place to put midranges is on the dash or pillars, but that isn't always the best spot either. You point out the reflection issues and while yes they can be overcome with a LOT of work, some cars work great with kick midranges with very little work. My own car spent 3 years with dash locations until I finally went with a kick midrange (tweeter in the pillar) and holy cow what an improvement with no loss of stage height (yes it was an IASCA comp car), so there are no absolutes in car audio, other than cars suck for acoustics :) Side note: Matt Hall's Mercedes had Jordan's and AE 12" subs in the kicks. It started out having a sub in the trunk but once the 12's were vented out properly the trunk sub was no longer required. Having spent many hours in that car I can attest to the benefit of an up front sub setup :) Still a thumbs up video BTW
I really love your work and thanks for the time you take to explain. I have just a question : Do you plan to explain how you use a DSP, how to do a calibration, what software you use, etc...? Thanks
Thomas B so we have part 7.2-7.4 coming about speakers, then part 8 on installation in general with a guest speaker and then part 9 tuning with another guest, one of the best in Europe to cover the basics of tuning.
With new Audi models, basic sound system is 8 inch 20W 4 ohm woofer in door (free air) and 1 inch tweeter on A pillars… I tried to tune the drivers with internal head unit dsp and the sound quality improved, but with only 6 parametric eq filter per channel I can’t do much, also I don’t think that the 8 inch will ever sound good in midrange region
Hi Peter. Can i ask for your recommendation regarding a new setup from my JBL GTO 609C on a VW Passat b5.5 front doors and roof well deadened? Just a recommendation i'm asking because i know it's a matter of personal taste and many other variables also it's impossible to listen in any showroom here in Bucharest: 1-infinity kappa perfect 3 way (600mid-bas + 300mid range) 2-hertz mille pro mpk 163.3 3 way 3-focal performance ps 165f3 Will build mids+tweets in front pillars woofer in oem location. Door doesn't rattle, did the job with deadening. OR if you can make another recommendation from your experience in this budget. These above here in Bucharest are around 500euros each. I will go passive (can't afford a dsp now) and also no Sub for the moment. So they need to handle some average daily bass also. Thanks. Will be much appreciated & keep up your awesome work!
Hi Peter. Once again an excellent video. I have pretty much what you described at the start. A BMW E90 3 Series. The fronts are MBQuarts running passive, they are high passed at 200hz. Under the seats are the Audison woofers which are bandpassed between 80-200hz and I also have a 12" Alpine Type R in a sealed enclosure. The headunit is the 80prs. Ideally I want the p99rs, Slightly old now but looks and sounds great. The amp is a 5 channel JBL GTR 7535 but I'm really tempted to either get the Alpine PDX V9 or the the Helix G Five. Have you had a play with any of those two?
Love your videos! Wish I found them before I had to learn a lot of these lessons the hard way. This video was particularly relevant but to keep it short I’ll just ask about the current project I’m working on. I’m currently swapping the bose system out of a Saab 9-7x, and for this build I was actually going to keep it simple and put some nice full range wavecors in the stock dash. I did however plan on using tweeters. since I already bought them, I wanted to know what your thoughts were on placing the tweeters next to the mids on the dash. I saw in your other build you did the mids on the dash but the tweeters in the pillars. Any reason I should stay away from tweeters in the dash? I will be using 8ch dsp. Thanks!
SoDiezl350 comb filtering is the keyword you have to research and understand. Some people put tweeters next to the mid on dash, I don’t, but may test it properly one day. 🤷🏻♂️👌✌️
For a truck that’s limited on space for a subwoofer box, you can really only put under the back seat. Would you recommend the subs to be up firing or down firing?
Pssound thank you. I have a box up firing but I’m sure I should be able to get more out of these 2 JL TW5s I have. I’ll will make a new box and see how that sounds
Is it impossible to get a good sounding front stage without a dsp? I am running 14 speakers in my front stage. 6 crossovers - all 12db and I been waiting for the helix ultra dsp to hit America at a fair price. I cant pay 1700 for a dsp at this time.
Why not buy a audison bit one? and what is your front stage? like 6 midbass 4 mids and 4 tweets?. And you could always try and set up a band pass via your amplifier...or just a high/low pass..
That setup sound like big bad lobe. Would not do it but you might have wanted your system to be loud as possible. If anyone want to build good sounding setup buy dsp first, for starter amps and wiring can be anything, just take attention choosing speakers
Great video again pete! I only have 1 dislike for you and you're videos, you make me wanna keep improving my system and spend more money 😂 But seriously thanks for making the videos for us 👌👍
Hi Peter, great info. I have a vw caravelle/transporter with factory speakers. Was thinking about taking out the air vent to get some wide band in. You mentioned using wideband and reflecting off the screen, I have tweeter locations up by the screen which I think could be easily modify to fit 2" wideband. Do you think using the factory location is ok, and what wideband 2" would you suggest. Cheers.
@@pssound9749 ok thanks a bunch. By any chance what speakers would you recommend be placed in the pods. I’m assuming air space is the issue with them. I have a Lexus suv with dash speakers. Just seeing what my best option is. Just keep the stock location or get something like the pods. Thanks again for any advice
Good videos , like your car redesign the entire dash ,, my car is a 1999 cadillac Eldorado , front wheel drive, in have a ton of room in center console, and wanted your opinion , on building a enclosure for a bass driver firing forward in the center of the car , fire tords the front fire wall in could fit a 8" sealed what's your opinion , of course it would be wired in mono and then the doors deadend in stereo !! Just a simple reply ( yes or no) thanks peter , sq set up !!
If in those BMWs where the underneath 8” midbass/subs are crossing at 150hz and the 4” door speakers are supposed to be mids, where do you cross those over? The 4” door speakers shouldn’t be crossed lower than around 220-250hz. So won’t that have a large gap between the 8” crossed at 150hz and the 4” mids door drivers crossed around 220hz? Thanks!
@@pssound9749 oh. I thought you said it’s not good to cross a 4” mid woofer in a door to avoid rattling and pulling the sound to the side. And don’t most 4” mid drivers have an Fs of around 100hz? So shouldn’t they be crossed at around double the Fs not to distort? Thanks so much for the education. 🙏
@@Nightjar726 rattles can be treated and even if you have some, those only occur at loud levels, but by then you don’t really hear them as everything else is loud & screaming. Fs is a good indicator, but sufficient XO point and slope with the right tuning can easily protect a 4” speaker crossed at 150-180Hz.
@@pssound9749 I have to say the Morel dealer here has confused me. He mentioned that all the BMW Morel speakers should be crossed at around 220-250hz. As I mentioned I was confused by that. I honestly believe you more.
Yes, it was him. Widebands and point source drivers are great for competition, but if i have the chance, then i always use a tweeter. Getting stage depth, micro details & proper attack on the highs is always better with tweeters.
Pit you do not know what you talking about 😂😂😂😂🤪. No keep on going with your vids when ever you can. We have business to run. But if you can tell us who like your vids and want more vids like me 😆 about what are a good specs reference to look for on tweeters, mids, mid bass ext. also what would be a ok cross over reference to start with. I hope I’m not asking to mush Jajajaja ja. 🍻
