Adam, I have to admit that knockoff saw is impressive for its price. For someone who knows small engines and can tinker around and adjust/fix it themselves it’s well worth the fraction of a name brand saw. Stay safe
I really like the Holzfforma Farmertec stuff. I feel that they are very good for the cost. I'm a Stihl guy so I have purchased 2 G660's and a 388. I have had very little trouble with any of them. Especially the 388. It's been absolutely trouble free. I have also purchased the 5800 and 4500 Jon Cutter saws. They have been fantastic too so far. I have liked their bars and chains also for the price. You just can't beat them. The quality seems to be really good so far. Logger Al
I have always made it a rule and bought tools, cars, lawn mowers, whatever, more powerful than. I really need, in the long term they are less stressed and last longer so money is saved in the end
I got 3 372 farmertec saws first one for over a year now..no problems...also have 4 of the stihl clones...I cut alot of firewood and for the money the farmertecs and great
It definitely would open it up with a 5/8 or 3/4 i.d. pipe in the muffler vs that small choked up pipe. Could do a base gasket delete to the cylinder as well fo more compression. The pipe in the muffler should definitely help a lot. If that carb starts acting up you can change the diaphragm or use a hyway carb. That farmertec carb should be alright since that have gotten better on their materials. The cranks and bearings seem to be decent now. There is a bit you can do to the saws to modify them easily. Plus different cylinder bores as well. Just depends what you wanna do on opening it up a bit more.
Their prices are impressive. I've been considering buying a MS660 clone with a 36" bar. And it can be at my door for $400. Not too shabby at all. I might just jump on it. Like you said, I can expect to mess with the carb and tuning. But should be able to get it to run decent with a little tweaking. Thanks for the video!
carb/saw sound good. I just ordered one. The only thing I would do on your is turn in the high speed screw a little itll run higher on the top end. only a little bit though its almost at its max. any higher youll blow it.
You need to turn up your high end. If it’s starting to “two-stroke” at the top end, as you adjust it up, drop it back 1/4 turn. My poulan 50cc (husq’s generic) needed so much adjustment, and this is what made the difference to keep it from bogging in the big stuff after a long cut.
I also used to have a Chinese copy of a 372 with 24” bar. Worked for about 5 years occasional use fir firewood , then gave up and wouldn’t start. Changed the recoil start 3 times with broken springs etc. and the carburettor once. The bar was cheaply made and never cut exactly straight.
Stihl all the way if you ask me!! Yes a little more expensive but stihl won't let you down or disappoint you I own a stihl saw it's not let me down even tho iv had it almost 4 years
Love the mid range torque and the actual Sound of the origional 372xp . Tried to order 1 from holzfarma was so difficult i gave up , the site wouldnt let me finish
I took my g372xp to my husqvarna dealer and he tuned it after I ran a few tanks through it. I have a real 372xp I bought 20 years ago. The China saw is cheaper made but the real one is not $600 better.
Great thing about the g372xp is there husqvarna oem compatible, first thing I did when I bought mine is replace the carb, ignition coil and oiler just to be safe. Nice video man
If you're looking to save a little coin and get a quality saw Echo's pro saws are the way to go. 5 year warranty, great reliability, and usually 25-40% cheaper than Stihl and Husqvarna. I love my 620PW and it will pull a 32" bar without a problem. I got mine on a one-day sale for $518 out the door with a 24" bar.
They are very good saws. There are a few guys that rebuild saws and build hot saws from the farmertec 372xp kits. Since farmertec started the blue series whole saw power heads this 3rd generation of saws are very good and are stout saws very close to OEM and with a muffler mod and retuned carb they open right up. The company I work for has 2 of there series of clones between the stihl and husqvarna. The stihl is a ms380 clone called the g388 and the husqvarna is a g372 witch is the clone of the husqvarna 365 special that's the same exact platform as the husqvarna 372xp just different airfilter and top cover and airfilter cover. Known as the high top and low top. Some people hate clones some of them love them some are in between as OEM has its positives just like clones and they do have their negatives as well. As I race clone engines some of the block or chainsaw cases has its pluses that's why the chinese companies like our feedback to tell them what they need to focus more on. That's why there is 3 generations of the farmertec stihl and husqvarna clones
Seems like you high jet needs to be adjusted. Also, the chain seems very dull (especially on the 24” bar). These are nice running saws, they just need some tinkering.
Yep, got a 661 have ran it on an alaskan mill and cut lots of wood with it. Nice thing is just add gas and oil, sharp chain. Never have to mess with carb adjustments with M-tronic.
The bar I got from them was junk. The grind was off both on gauge and on edge. I could file the edge and flatten that. But the groove cut for the chain gauge was too sloppy, loads of play... end up buying OEM guide bar, so much happier with that one.
Yes you can you can put a husky carb in it matter of fact any part that would fit on a Husqvarna 372 will fit on that saw there are carbon copy I had one that somebody didn't like blew the damn thing up and I bought it for little to nothing and I had a bunch of OEM parts and I put it back together and what I've got now is a 372 Husqvarna but it says husffmoa on the side
Idle and throttle response seemed really good, maybe the downside is it seemed to struggle a bit in big wood. Afleetcommand said almost exactly the same thing about being willing and having the knowledge to work on the saw from time to time for best performance but otherwise it's a great value.
Im required to run a spark screen muffler in fire season. Thus that voids the warranty, changing the muffler. So i also got there oversized piston at 52mm and installed it with out the base gasket. The one with xp is 50mm and the one sold as g372 is 48mm At the time, the full rap handle, high flow air filter and heavy spikes was not available from china so i also did those upgrades. Still to this day the heated carb/handle bar is not available. . I run it as a 32" with 7 tooth sprocket. Or 28" with 8 tooth sprocket. Im Largely dealing with soft wood or hardwoods that are oddly soft. . 32" full skip on a 70cc is totally normal out west. . My argument is whether i buy a genuine or knock off and modify it any way, i have no warranty. So why pay the premium price, and have no warranty.
The main difference between OEM & clones is OEMs are CARB compliant and most will be sold after 2024 where EPA compliant clones will not be sold in CALIF and other states.
Looks like it putting out more sawdust the chips... aka dull chain. Hard to really tell through camera but that's what I see. Otherwise pretty good saw for the money. I have a 272xp I've been thinking about get one of these to rebuild that
I like many want to know how it stands up against the long run. I think repairs and all out failure will be it’s weakness. I do my best not to buy Chinese products especially a piece of equipment but I wouldn’t look down upon someone who needed to.
Maybe mine on a good day when the saw is screaming but if I’m having a carb adjustment day you’ll beat me no doubt. Fly across the pond and we’ll do a video together and see. You might have to check luggage the frankensaw though haha
My saw after the break in I went to a 32 to 1 mixture then after that I had to lean out the carburetor just a tinch then after that I adjusted the idle and it runs like a dream and what I also did was I put a dual port muffler on it and again I had to adjust the carburetor just a little bit and make it a little bit fatter because of the they're being no back pressure but once I got all that done it runs like a dream and I run a 32-in full house chain on it and I'm cutting hard maple and ash pretty much all the time occasionally I'll get some oak white oak or red oak not very often it's mostly maple and ash I would say about 75% ash That's what that's all needs and it's cutting a little bit off like the man one person said you need to file the left side just a little bit more count your strokes when you're sharpening then that way you get an even filing on both sides and if you happen to have a set of calipers you can measure the length of the teeth and by doing that then you get them exactly the right length on both sides
I ended up buying a G372xp. I'm doing the break-in, so far so good. The low screw needed about 1/8 turn CCW to keep it from bogging when it was cold. It was cutting GREAT until I hit dirt I think, then it wouldn't cut at all even though the engine was revving. The chain was resharpened, I'll try it again soon.
I have a g372 and imo junk, by the time I fixed everything could have bought a clean used oem and been farther ahead. The parts just don’t hold up and holzfforma changes part manufacturers constantly. Even seen holes in the cylinder castings, and went threw 3 clutches to finally get a good one, all came broken.
Just bad luck I think, ours have been fine and are used almost daily over the past year or so. Obviously quality control is a bit hit and miss, but then what can you expect for the price? I think if you're a sensible sort of person you would know that you're taking a gamble, and that you might need to tinker a bit to get the best out of it.
After burning up my stihl ms461 on a saw mill, I got one of the G070s. Figuring a rather burn up a cheap saw then my repaired 461. After a fair amount of work, I got a saw I can use. I agree with a previous poster you need to have time to tune these saws. The bar is junk on my saw. Replaced with current Stihl model. I had to add a set of holes to the bar to get it mounted on the power head. The G070 is a copy from a 90s model Stihl, the bar hole pattern has changed from then. The bar oiler was way off, it used almost no oil to start with. I used a rpm meter to tune the carb. I am still not sure where I stand on the cheap chain... not enough experience with rip chains. Unless you are a decent shade tree mechanic, I would pass on these saws. Not cost effective to take it into a shop to have them keep tweaking it. Now for your saw, if your carb is tuned to its best and you are stil having issues, check the cylinder compression, you may need to put a new cylinder/piston kit into it, don't skimp on quality here... first kit put in my 461 was done by dealer, near OEM in performance, (ran for a couple of years). After the saw mill meltdown, I did myself and got the best aftermarket kit for my 461. It appears to be better tham OEM as I buck much faster than before. Run a richer mix during break in, 5 tanks or so... then start to lean it out. I went with 32:1 x5, then 40:1 x5, and finally now at 50:1. If I am running it in the mill I am using 40:1 there.
US in recent years complies with international law. we use to be 17 years from issue. Now it 20 years is from filing date. Design patents are different, gennerally 14 from issue.
The knock offs work okay but you never have to fiddle with the mixtures on a the genuine article. Friend got a brand new 372xp and its just a really nice and good stock saw
The high does appear too rich, not enough RPMS. How old is the saw? Mine ran rich out of the box. After break in I leaned up the saw and it cuts great now.
I'd say if you weren't piling directly onto the pallets you'd wind up with pretty close to a full cord (due to loosing 4" all the way across the bottom of your pile). As for the saw, I'm not particularly impressed; time is money and I don't have the time to mess around with sub-par machinery. No way a saw that big should be bogging down like that. Like you said, if you have the patience of a saint and the resources of a pauper it may be the saw for you. Thanks for the video. I, like you, find it therapeutic to be out in nature and I get a lot of satisfaction from being just a bit more self-sufficient. Firewood: the fuel that warms you twice!
Love the videos. I know it was an accident but please try to role those smaller logs instead of dragging your chain into the dirt. Made me sad when I seen it 3 times. But anyways love the videos man. You continuously entertain me.
So far with the first 2 bars I think for what you paid for all the bars, you got a lot of saw for the money. And that seemed like teal hard wood. Wish I had one.
My only problem with my Stihl MS461 has been heat related. First cylinder I melted, was from a partial blockage of air flow. My dealer actually told me I can't buck continuosly, all day with this pro model of saw. The second time was running it in a saw mill. I think as Stihl has pushed the limits on weight and power, as such, they are not as rock solid anymore. It is still my number one saw for bucking. I use a farm and ranch model husqy for limbing. and a cheap chinese model for the saw mill... that way when it melts down, I won't as well.
