Stanliner Fender tool / Rolling Spoon 

Hi Jake, thanks for watching again. You content is amazing and even more so knowing you shoot it with an iPhone. I have gotten a little carried away but it's a good chance to pare things down to make content creation easier. Could be silver lining. It is a shame, would love to meet you in person one day. I love how clear your videos are, you have become the benchmark!

@@VanDentPro Thanks Pak, living in the UK and not having a workshop I have a lot of days where I get rained off, so I work from home where I get a lot of enjoyment honing my editing skills and it makes me feel like I am still working even though it is hammering with rain outside! Likewise, would love to catch up one day and talk all things Stanliner and PDR!

@@1st_track_dents We have a seriously wet climate too. Raincouver. Glad to see your expertise is paying off on both fronts.

Thanks for the visit

Love the killer whale. It has so many uses, and thanks for that share zak!

Thank you for watching. I would say the large fender tool and killer whale would be the first to get.

Cool.. glad it was helpful

Always helpful.

Hey thanks for watching, I have a setup like you mention too. To me PDR is about nuances just like many artful crafts (hands, mind, heart). I have a fender 1/2" interchangeable tip rod and used Dent Craft mushroom tips with it. It was a good setup but not nearly the same. I always go to this fixed fender tool when I have adequate access for productivity and to apply the stanliner techniques. The cost is easily recovered on any of the dents I showed on this video and I repair much worse than what's shown in these examples every week. BTW the polished M48-PT is one of the best blending tips for interchangeable tip hammers for general side panel damage.

can the m48-pt be used for rolling out a crease on a fender

@victor : I don’t think that would be possible with any kind of control

So many situations with all the different vehicles and angles. I can understand it would be difficult to make a solid tool that works for everything. There are new fender tools that do as you describe!

For keeping paint pliable 130F, but for aluminum or bodyline 180-200F to help the metal move

Hey John. Tools and training or atleast some guidance is recommended and will increase your chances to get PDR. To begin with self-practicing all you really need is a practice panel, 1 tool, knockdown/ hammer, and a light source is what you'll need. First step is mainly about getting coordinated with tool in hand and coordinating that with what you see with PDR lights / reflection.

If you're into the Stanliner techniques I'd recommend getting a universal 1/2" pirate hook. I can push sharp and soft and it can roll a little and drag (so alot of techniques on 1 tool). Start with a sharp and soft delrin or peek knockdown and a hammer to hit could be anything like an inexpensive bodyhammer (just choke up on the handle to lessen the blow). You will need more tools when you move from the practice panel to live vehicles, but for now that'll do. You need proper adjustable PDR light, that will be the most expensive thing. You can get new stuff in Canada from a couple suppliers like canadentools.ca/ and www.denttools.ca. Stanliner tools like the universal pirate hook can be purcahsed at www.stanlinertools.com/collections/pirate-hook/products/pirate-hook-4. These companies ship from Canada currently so it'll save you alot of hidden costs from buying cross border. Buying not many but quality tools will give a better chance to get over the hurdle. PDR isn't going to be easy to start on your own so try to join a helpful community or look for training.

@@VanDentPro I thank you for responding. I have a fleet of vehicles, to practice on. I have been looking at dcc pdr for tools. As I am going to gain more experience. To be honest, I can get about 60% through the appearance. Some are easy, but some just don't work out. I can appreciate any help you might offer.

@@johnyaceyko9775 Anytime John. That's great you get live cars to work on and congrats on how far you've come along. Personally, I like to seperate factors and focus one thing at a time. Dents found in the wild on panels are usually in inconvenient places. I'm sure you know. Live cars can introduce alot of factors that might cause confusion. One of the points of working on practice panels is to advance your light positioning and reading. To me this is a key fundamental, you will run into for deep dents and for finishing to 100%. I have a couple practice panels in my shop just for trying new things out. Just like in sports, we train in practice before the game. You sound like you're on your way and already in the game. Congrats.

Thanks for the compliment Curtis, nice to hear from a fellow BC resident! We don't have any phyical stores in BC that offers PDR specific tools, but you can try online retailers. There's DCC tools, Canadent Tools, Stanliner tools, Keco Canada, and CamAuto - these all ship from Canada. I think you can find everything you need there for Canadian techs. If you need something really specific you can try the US stores but be prepared for duties, broker fees and taxes after shipping costs. Good luck and don't be shy to ask questions!

For sure on all those accounts. About the pirate hook, I think it's really misunderstood. I use it quite a bit in hatches and doors off the car with that particular design it's like a super heavy duty bend flag tool! Saves me all the time.

Using the spoon in a tank would be awesome, I haven't had the chance yet. Thanks for sharing your experience.

Crane and snakes are really staples and will allow the drawing and small rolls in other directions than the tools in this video. Worth a consideration 👍

As for cutting handles. I would say of you don't plan to use the particular tool where you need a really solid connection then go for it. Dedicated door tools are great idea to make them adjustable. For spoons and killer whales etc, I wouldn't personally. Using those tools for dragging, samurai and rolling I would regret going to adjustable handles. Any little bit of slop would be really annoying and I would feel loss of accuracy similar to a overly flexible rod. In my opinion.

I was using the Stucky hail light at one point. It's great for finishing and... hail LOL. But I really like the Robolites: they can be brought close for a really really wide fade perfect for large and deep damage and can be put back further for that texturey finish like the Stucky. The Stucky build quality is amazing... it helps see alot of texture without being a wiz at light positon. I've been thinking of selling the stuckey but it's hard to let it go.

Hey Joshua, I put it together from stuff I already had. It's a photography friction arm, mine is manfrotto and the claw is Ram mount product. I think the get a grip version maybe Less expensive and already put together, but I already had these parts.

I used a prop rod available form propdr. It’s a modified drywall jack or cargo jack and just a rope ratchet. The combo of pushing and pull did the trick. Thanks for watching 🤙

@@VanDentPro Thanks for the response. I found it on their website. Ordered the short and the long. Thanks again!

Anytime enjoy. It’s a solid tool

Thanks for watching 🎉

Hi straight lines. I mainly use Robolites from Steve Lacey (also sold through Druz). I really like the wide fade on them and how they mix the warm, cool and RGB led strips. In one of the videos I had a Stuckey XL, but I find that light is more for finishing / hail. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the demo of the killer fender tool and explaining the nuances 😁Since the head is smooth and polished,what is the reason for glue on the head🤔 Can't wait for more videos.Peace

@@victoragresti1777 about the glue on the smooth large face. It's to further soften the contact patch. For the type of pushing I did on the white Lexus HSS fender. It was pretty extreme pushout, so I wanted ensure that I didn't make really nasty outies on the max power pushes. The other reason is that the head on the fender tool is fixed so depending on the angle I may have not been on the flattest part of the tool head. These are important nuances which is important for PDR