We’re in the Marpole area. Thanks for asking! Vancouver Dent Pro, Paintless Dent Repair Service (604) 440-8783 maps.app.goo.gl/E1Jr77dBqt3HjTfN6?g_st=ic

Thanks for the visit

Thank you! Cheers!

Yes for sure, we do this every day. Although, someone not trained and proficient in this style of repair will make ripples and paint damage. Thanks for the comment and checking out my video!

Hi Igor! It’s called a monkey Jack. It’s an inexpensive tool from the old days of Autobody.

@@VanDentPro th-th-thank-you so much Pak) I loved them instantly) That's exactly what I needed) old school it's OLD SCHOOL...))) .... forever....)

Me too. I only speak English 😉

So many situations with all the different vehicles and angles. I can understand it would be difficult to make a solid tool that works for everything. There are new fender tools that do as you describe!

Yep. That’s a “declaration” look up key words Jim Mitchell and Anson. They may sell it still 🤙. The black ball is something that I had from one of my older hammer ends.

💪🙏

Not for me LoL, could be easier

I used a prop rod available form propdr. It’s a modified drywall jack or cargo jack and just a rope ratchet. The combo of pushing and pull did the trick. Thanks for watching 🤙

@@VanDentPro Thanks for the response. I found it on their website. Ordered the short and the long. Thanks again!

Anytime enjoy. It’s a solid tool

For keeping paint pliable 130F, but for aluminum or bodyline 180-200F to help the metal move

Thanks 🙏

Thank you for watching 🙏

I’m not a part of the Dent Pro franchises in the USA.

Nice 😊 thanks for dropping in man 🤙

Thanks for checking this out 👍

Вери найс

And they all have meaning and not just for looks 👍. I love tools

@@VanDentPro Me too. My Dad has a body shop so I grew up painting cars. We have a small PDR tool kit, but most of the work is repair and refinish.

@@DH-rt3fk I painted cars too 🤙

Thanks very much Joe. Pushing my limits and learning on everyone 🎉

Thanks so much man and thanks for checking this out. Not bodyshop replacement $$$, it was a walk-in client paying out of pocket. We settled on a price under $2500 and I capped myself off at 12-14hrs - quite a bit of experiment time and most importantly experience I can use for future repairs. I was off and on this repair for a few days.

Thanks for watching 🙏

😁

Gracias. Thank you for checking out this video 😁✌️

Thanks for watching 🎉

Jose in my market it is about $300-$500 depending on how much disassembly is needed and the location of this dent along the bodyline.

I was using the Stucky hail light at one point. It's great for finishing and... hail LOL. But I really like the Robolites: they can be brought close for a really really wide fade perfect for large and deep damage and can be put back further for that texturey finish like the Stucky. The Stucky build quality is amazing... it helps see alot of texture without being a wiz at light positon. I've been thinking of selling the stuckey but it's hard to let it go.

Love the killer whale. It has so many uses, and thanks for that share zak!

Hey, sorry I've been MIA for a bit. I would have been using the stright hybrid crane tool. That tool is 40"

Thank you, I'm pretty proud of this repair too. Cheers

Hi Thanks for watching and happy to help. I used 2 Hammers in this video: the pointed narrow head is a single sided stainless Druz hammer and that tip is very clean for a small tip. This hammer with the M48 tip is really versatile. The other hammer is something I customised from a silversmithing hammer. The wedge (flat) side I rounded up a bit in both directions. It took alot of iterations of shaving and polishing to get it to where I wouldn't make marks. It's a little light for edges to be honest.

For sure on all those accounts. About the pirate hook, I think it's really misunderstood. I use it quite a bit in hatches and doors off the car with that particular design it's like a super heavy duty bend flag tool! Saves me all the time.

Using the spoon in a tank would be awesome, I haven't had the chance yet. Thanks for sharing your experience.

Crane and snakes are really staples and will allow the drawing and small rolls in other directions than the tools in this video. Worth a consideration 👍

As for cutting handles. I would say of you don't plan to use the particular tool where you need a really solid connection then go for it. Dedicated door tools are great idea to make them adjustable. For spoons and killer whales etc, I wouldn't personally. Using those tools for dragging, samurai and rolling I would regret going to adjustable handles. Any little bit of slop would be really annoying and I would feel loss of accuracy similar to a overly flexible rod. In my opinion.

Hi Bill, thanks for watching. I didnt really keep track on this one. I had it in my shop overnight and spent time here and there on it. Guessing 6 hours on the quarter.

@@VanDentPro thanks reply. did you repair the carbon fibire panel before? I tried cant get it.

Hi Bill, I haven't repaired dents on CF panels, I don't think it would work. I don't think the resin could handle it. Some epoxy resin CF and Fiberglass you can bend a bit but I don't think PDR would work with it

@@VanDentPro Thanks I tried. even I heat it for a while then pushup then waiting for cool down it doesnt working.

@@billcui7827 Thanks for sharing!

Thanks on both counts. I do try to experiment something different and the shooting style is experimentation to nail down some technical things. I do love camauto clear, in truth, it can be very inconvenient to use but once I learned it, it's my go to for hard pulls and sharp dents. With camauto, the biggest thing is the clean up issues and loss of strength from being too thin or set too long. Camauto is very resilient and cleans up better when left as a thick puck. It doesn't like to be pushed thin like some glues when putting the tab on. I used it mobile before I moved it into a shop. When I dialed it in, it was destroying normal tabs and when I can get a stroke of this minilifter and the glue/tab hasn't let go, I know I've got max pull dialed in. I hope that helps.

@@VanDentPro Pak, I appreciate you share your expertise! 80-90% of my work is mobile + outdoors, being here in Vancouver, WA / Portland, OR the climate is probably somewhat similar to Vancouver BC. For a bit over a year, I've been using hot glue from a pdr supplier in turkey, but, it does require just right conditions and time to cure to give good pulls. And, if these are not met it pulls weak or becomes very brittle and difficult to clean off. Thanks Pak! 👍

@@igpanasyuk3422 oh that's the worst when it gets brittle and difficult to clean off. So much wasted time

Hello thanks for watching. I use a slide hammer to bring up a general area and add some shock to activate memory (aka help crowns move). The minilifter I use for sharp things and I'm sure you know it's more concentrated with the feet leveraging off the panel. In the footage I showed I was watching what I needed and checking between pulls. The camauto pink glue was holding well so I didn't want to go full power at that stage. The final slide hammer pull was just to snap off the glue with a quick pull, I knew the glue was getting brittle. I actually didn't show the first 2 pulls which was all minilifter to get most of the sharp dent up with a very slight volcano. I know it's not a concensus between all techs but I get much more concentrated pulls for sharp dents with the minilifter, especially this setup I have. In this video I was using 2 lengths of Druz single sided hammer - one of the best ever balanced and comfy handle for accuracy. The fixed small end is very good and doesn't make marks unless we are really pounding with it.

I do have a lot of hammers and I move between then depending on what the panel gives me, but I usually start off with something safe and adjust from there. I really should do a hammer video, I don't think anyone really has broken down the different considerations for blending hammers.

@@VanDentPro Thank you for the time in sending your response. That makes sense. Not sure why but I have always chose one or the other it never crossed my mind to use them together!

@@VanDentPro Sadly being mobile I have lost a lot of hammers! I need to get another one but it is hard to pick just one. I for one would enjoy a video on hammers

@@drdentrepair5530 ah man. Me too I've lost hammers when I was mobile too. luckily I found one of the 2 I lost, under my seat. Ok I'll try a hammer video 👍

Totally agree, glue pulling is becoming a bigger part of all repairs. Sharp dent glue pulling has been my focus for the last 3 years

Hey John. Tools and training or atleast some guidance is recommended and will increase your chances to get PDR. To begin with self-practicing all you really need is a practice panel, 1 tool, knockdown/ hammer, and a light source is what you'll need. First step is mainly about getting coordinated with tool in hand and coordinating that with what you see with PDR lights / reflection.

If you're into the Stanliner techniques I'd recommend getting a universal 1/2" pirate hook. I can push sharp and soft and it can roll a little and drag (so alot of techniques on 1 tool). Start with a sharp and soft delrin or peek knockdown and a hammer to hit could be anything like an inexpensive bodyhammer (just choke up on the handle to lessen the blow). You will need more tools when you move from the practice panel to live vehicles, but for now that'll do. You need proper adjustable PDR light, that will be the most expensive thing. You can get new stuff in Canada from a couple suppliers like canadentools.ca/ and www.denttools.ca. Stanliner tools like the universal pirate hook can be purcahsed at www.stanlinertools.com/collections/pirate-hook/products/pirate-hook-4. These companies ship from Canada currently so it'll save you alot of hidden costs from buying cross border. Buying not many but quality tools will give a better chance to get over the hurdle. PDR isn't going to be easy to start on your own so try to join a helpful community or look for training.

@@VanDentPro I thank you for responding. I have a fleet of vehicles, to practice on. I have been looking at dcc pdr for tools. As I am going to gain more experience. To be honest, I can get about 60% through the appearance. Some are easy, but some just don't work out. I can appreciate any help you might offer.

@@johnyaceyko9775 Anytime John. That's great you get live cars to work on and congrats on how far you've come along. Personally, I like to seperate factors and focus one thing at a time. Dents found in the wild on panels are usually in inconvenient places. I'm sure you know. Live cars can introduce alot of factors that might cause confusion. One of the points of working on practice panels is to advance your light positioning and reading. To me this is a key fundamental, you will run into for deep dents and for finishing to 100%. I have a couple practice panels in my shop just for trying new things out. Just like in sports, we train in practice before the game. You sound like you're on your way and already in the game. Congrats.

Hi straight lines. I mainly use Robolites from Steve Lacey (also sold through Druz). I really like the wide fade on them and how they mix the warm, cool and RGB led strips. In one of the videos I had a Stuckey XL, but I find that light is more for finishing / hail. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the demo of the killer fender tool and explaining the nuances 😁Since the head is smooth and polished,what is the reason for glue on the head🤔 Can't wait for more videos.Peace

@@victoragresti1777 about the glue on the smooth large face. It's to further soften the contact patch. For the type of pushing I did on the white Lexus HSS fender. It was pretty extreme pushout, so I wanted ensure that I didn't make really nasty outies on the max power pushes. The other reason is that the head on the fender tool is fixed so depending on the angle I may have not been on the flattest part of the tool head. These are important nuances which is important for PDR

Hi Jake, thanks for watching again. You content is amazing and even more so knowing you shoot it with an iPhone. I have gotten a little carried away but it's a good chance to pare things down to make content creation easier. Could be silver lining. It is a shame, would love to meet you in person one day. I love how clear your videos are, you have become the benchmark!

@@VanDentPro Thanks Pak, living in the UK and not having a workshop I have a lot of days where I get rained off, so I work from home where I get a lot of enjoyment honing my editing skills and it makes me feel like I am still working even though it is hammering with rain outside! Likewise, would love to catch up one day and talk all things Stanliner and PDR!

@@1st_track_dents We have a seriously wet climate too. Raincouver. Glad to see your expertise is paying off on both fronts.

Thanks for the compliment Curtis, nice to hear from a fellow BC resident! We don't have any phyical stores in BC that offers PDR specific tools, but you can try online retailers. There's DCC tools, Canadent Tools, Stanliner tools, Keco Canada, and CamAuto - these all ship from Canada. I think you can find everything you need there for Canadian techs. If you need something really specific you can try the US stores but be prepared for duties, broker fees and taxes after shipping costs. Good luck and don't be shy to ask questions!

Hey Joshua, I put it together from stuff I already had. It's a photography friction arm, mine is manfrotto and the claw is Ram mount product. I think the get a grip version maybe Less expensive and already put together, but I already had these parts.

Thank you for watching. I would say the large fender tool and killer whale would be the first to get.

Cool.. glad it was helpful

Always helpful.

Hey thanks for watching, I have a setup like you mention too. To me PDR is about nuances just like many artful crafts (hands, mind, heart). I have a fender 1/2" interchangeable tip rod and used Dent Craft mushroom tips with it. It was a good setup but not nearly the same. I always go to this fixed fender tool when I have adequate access for productivity and to apply the stanliner techniques. The cost is easily recovered on any of the dents I showed on this video and I repair much worse than what's shown in these examples every week. BTW the polished M48-PT is one of the best blending tips for interchangeable tip hammers for general side panel damage.

can the m48-pt be used for rolling out a crease on a fender

@victor : I don’t think that would be possible with any kind of control

Thanks for the info. I could see that happening, esp fresh paint! the ring can happen on ppf and vinyl too.

Have you made a video on the stainliner tool I thinks it's called fender killer whale tool🤔

@@victoragresti1777 Hey ... I actually have made it and put it up. But I didn't really like it so I haven't made it public yet. I should probably just release it! 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for watching!

cool thanks

Thanks very much, always nice hearing from a fellow craftsman 👍

Thanks for the tip I'll give it a try. I've seen some tool companies sell them.

@1st Track Dents: Thank you so much. I look up to your presentations and repairs so I'm so encouraged by your comment and visit on my page.

@@VanDentPro Thanks Pak, I need to come to you for lessons on using those Stanliner bars when I eventually get to try them out one day 👍

I'd be honored, to share with you what I've been studying with those tools 👍

@@VanDentPro 😉