I’m really late to the party on this one, but here’s my two-cents’ worth. First time viewer: interested in micrometer resto after seeing Mr. Pete selling off his stuff. Also, a big fan of Scout Crafter. See Hand Tool Rescue for the low-down on making and applying your own japanning. Thank you for the nice explanation of how to get a micrometer back to work.
Joe, this project would be right down my alley - I love precision tools, though my knowledge is shallow. The footage of you sandblasting the Japaning off was cool - it was like the finish blew off like magic!
Looks great. I like that you left it unpainted. Love watching the restoration videos I believe this is the first time I've ever seen a micrometer restored. I'm going to have to try it on an old micrometer that I have. Thanks for the video.
Yea, I was almost sure that there was going to be something wrong with this starrett....why else would it be in a bucket of tools...right? It came out nice, I think. Thanks to your channel I learned about shellac and I can see the difficulties of jappaning :). Thanks for the comments and keep up the good work, I enjoy and appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Cheers.
Joe's Shop cameras are pretty much required to present your videos so camera games manipulation is required and thanks for minimizing it and focusing on the tool.
It's a Starrett 436-P. It is available yet, different number now, but can be purchased with a ratchet and lock. The ring at the end of the barrel is to adjust for the thread wear. I have a complete set of 0 to 3 inches, in case, with standards. One micrometer now costs more than I paid for the set probably more than 40 years ago. Still holding their accuracy. Quality was more than a word.
@@joeheilm Hmm, Maybe that didn't come over as I intended. Starrett quality is the same today as it was when I bought mine. The only thing changed is the price, as far as I can tell. Everyone has his favorite, mine just happens to be Starrett. Plain and simple, they just seem to last forever.
@@richbuege6491 i get what you are saying. I was just lamenting about how so many quality brands have gone to hell over the years. Brian Block (bcbloc02) talks about how starrett is starting to have tools made in china, but the quality is still excellent...for now. Cheers
Joe, Look at the outer end of the tumbler ( the part you turn in and out ) to see if it has a screw on it. If so remove the screw then with a piece of wood tap the tumbler outward. It will come off, it's on a tapered collar inside. Now turn the shaft in on the two inch block till you get the feel you want. Now the tumbler can be turned to line up zero. Put the screw in and tighten it down. If it is hard to get the tumbler off use some W-D40.
You'd never disassembled one, before this video? I disassemble any micrometer I obtain (including brand new ones), to remove any gunge, grit, or congealed oil.
6 лет назад
Measuring, no two people measure the same, it is down to ones consistency. Take wood work do you cut along the side of the pencil mark or remove the pencil mark? As long as you do the same thing all the time you will be consistent with your result. Micrometers is down to feel as you can over tighten and get false readings so it is good practice to keep measuring an accurate piece of stock if its one inch then turn the micrometer until it reads one inch and get the feel of the feed back.
Tony. no two people have the same feel to be consistent you must LEARN THE FEEL to measure the same as the next bloke. I was taught when you get a mic out check it with a standard that should be in the box or use gauge blocks it is also good way to LEARN THE FEEL check min and max for zero. Do not use the ratchert ( inside mic's dont have them) as they are not consistant and take care Do not drop or knock about but if you knock them around recheck.
Nicely done Joe! I think you did a great job on this, about the best possible result on the steel given the original condition. On the parts you sandblasted I kinda wish you'd left the finish as-is, the matt finish might have made a good contrast to the wire wheel/polished portions. I know you wanted it closer to original initially, but IMHO japanning is a PITA and even when it works out right it just takes soooo long o_O I There are plenty of good paints and finishes (like Cerakote) available to us now and I bet Starrett of 100 years ago would have used one if they'd been available.
Thanks DG! The gun guys that watch my channel always recommend Cerakote. I need to look into it more, and you are 100% Japanning is old school, no point in using antiquated techniques when there is much better stuff available. Cheers
I think after the mechanical removal of the grit and grim some sort of chemical bath would be prudent. I hate watching videos about evaporust, so i try to stick to conventional methods. Mr. Pete222 has a 3 part series on rust removal, he is a real expert. Cheers
Hey Joe, Scoutcrafter sent me over after I had asked about his opinion on what kind of bench grinder would be substantial for restoring tools and such, but lasted a few lifetimes. Any suggestions? I'm also a bit ignorant when it comes to performance based on RPM and HP. I want something substantial, but not overkill. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Also, keep up the good work on your channel, you've got a new sub. Thanks, Nolan.
Hi Nolan, Thanks for watching and thanks for subscribing. For tool restoration the wire wheel is king. I think "bench grinders" suck because the motor and the arbor are very close together. "Bench Buffers" on the other hand stick way out and offer more room to maneuver the work piece around the wire wheel or buffer. As far as HP and rpm, it is hard to say. No matter what you cannot get more than about 1HP from a 110v 15 amp outlet, I use a 1/2 hp powertec buffer and it works great. I don't think buffers are "lifetime machines", the abrasive dust and awkward loads being placed way away from the journals makes them prone to all kinds of problems. Anyway that's my 2 cents....there are a lot of assumptions wrapped up in my rejoinder, so I am sorry if this was not helpful. Great question. Cheers,Joe
the thing on the thread is to tighten up the thread, to have a little resistance. calibration is as you said, the rest is done by thread pitch and can not be wrong, unless you have massive backlash due to the thread nut being loose or plain worn out
Hey great vid man! I hope you see this comment because I need help. I have the 0-1 in Starrett Micrometer that looks identical in style to that one. Do you happen to know the date of manufacture on that micrometer? I've tried looking around but I've come up empty. Someone told me 1940's but I was hoping you had some insight
@@Roblecop did you ever find out? I have recently come into possession of a vintage 0-6 Starrett set that is in as bad of disrepair as his were- maybe worse, and I needed some advice for how to clean them best. Fortunately I have access to all of these tools he used except maybe the scotch brite wheel, but I can do it by hand
Hi, I have a starrett micrometer 436 and I removed the shaft from the micrometer and now I don't know how to pass it through is like there some point where it hit inside and doesn't allow it to pass. Do you know what's the problem or the trick to make goes all the way in? Thanks
need advice with ma mitutoyo micrometer.The spindle of the micrometer is over tightened ,like i cant even open it. dimantled timple and balrrel but the spindle is not yet unscrewed. pls help
Someone might have tightened it down with it warm, when it contracted it might have torqued it on its why you never leave ends tighted to zero. Try some upside down aresol from something like a can of air, the freezing liquid might shrink the shift enough to unscrew it, otherwise soak it in some penetrating oil.
TCK 309 yea it is a bad habit. Believe me i have a dozen pairs of steel toe boots and shoes. When im tinkering with bigger stuff you will see me wearing them. Cheers.
