An ugly but very effective mod on a 70s Ford starter drive with a few sacrificial parts thrown in. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask in the comment section. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!!
I'm a Brickmason and my pulley ropes are always breaking from chop saw, mortar mixer, generator, etc. Ingenuity; quick fix while I wait for parts or use at will. I like it. Great video very informative
Thanks for your recommendation of using a ratcheting adapter to prevent kickback. I fastened a 1/2” ratcheting adapter ($17.50) to a 1/2” socket ($7.64) that fits the fly wheel nut on my 10 HP generator, but instead of cutting off a half inch socket extender to chuck into my drill, I got a high impact 1/2” drive socket adapter with a 1/4” hex shank ($4.79) that goes into my 20 amp cordless drill. I used duck tape to tape the ratcheting adapter so that it only turns clockwise. It works great. This was much easier than cutting off a socket extender and welding it to the ratcheting adapter. God bless!
Good idea with the duct tape, make sure to check it before every start attempt. A couple guys were going to JB Weld or epoxy the switch ring on theirs. That would be fine too but with tape you can use the adapter for its intended purpose. Thanks for watching! Stay safe!
I have a similar generator, what I do is pop open the air cleaner, looks like on your model it's just one snap clip. Then do a quick spray of starter fluid on the air filter element. Close it back up and it usually will start on the first pull every time unless it's sub zero temps.
My 10 hp generac has a 3\4 inch. Square drive... Freewheeler in counter clockwise direction. A 15\16 12 point socket fits it. My 20 volt cordless drill spins the generator to start with a few cranks! I'm fortunate that I saw your tutorial! Thanks!
Love it guy, We are off grinders in new Mexico, have a few worn out generators, was thinking a chunk of drill pipe would almost perfectly fit into the 2 7/16 stainless hub, then a socket weilded into it, but would add probably ly too much weight, even if balanced, which definitely would not be. Yep need a bearing design.
Good Idea. My Generator has electric start but I use it manual every other weekly test.. It starts 1st or 2nd pull. have your generator serviced so it starts easy by hand too.
@@pmtips4482 Your motor seems to have the cutout for an electric start. you may be able to find a flywheel with a starting gear.and a starter motor. I've seen guys add elctric start. on you tube. .. but after watching again I wonder how long it's been since you did a carburetor service., Likely cause is the fuel idle circuit is clogged. Probably why it's hard starting on the rope
I'd run some Sea Foam in the gas to clean the carb, maybe even drain all the gas from tank and bowl then dump enough Sea Foam in to fill the carb bowl...let it sit for several days and then drain it. Sometimes that will clear the carb jets (liquid rebuild).
This is exactly what I need, my motor pull starts fine when the hydraulic pump is disconnected, but its too much load to start when the pump is connected. I understand why you want a one way bearing so that once the motor starts it doesnt break your wrist, BUT I dont understand how to build it. I get that it needs to freewheel after the motor starts so the drill and socket can be extracted. Can you advise me on how to buy or "make" the one way bearing? I also dont understand how it can drive in one direction with power and also freewheel in the same direction. Thanks
Pm! Thanks so much for the idea, I built one with a starter drive (which makes your welding look like artwork, mine looks like Ray Charles welded it with his feet) then I saw your suggestion for a ratcheting adapter which is excellent as well, so when my welding breaks I have a backup :-)
It sure does! I know it looks like a wild hair contraption but it is strong enough to do the job without buying a big enough one-way bearing to do it. I did buy a small one-way bearing on eBay but it looks far too delicate to handle the task. Take care!!
interesting idea! Might be a starting point for a starting device for the generators not having the electric start option. Is it there a way to connect the drill to the recoil mechanism? So you don't need to remove the recoil system. Maybe use the recoil mechanism disconnecting abilities?
It's not. It's produces the dirtiest sine wave and frequency I've ever seen, and destroyed our microwave and smart TV. I bought a Predator 3500 and love it. Thanks for watching!
If both ends are identical all you would have to do is flip it over to get it to start an engine that turns in the opposite direction like if it was 3/8 inch Drive on both ends
I have the propane version of this (LP5500). In warm weather, it will start on the first pull. In cold weather or below 40 degrees, it will not start. Have been looking for solutions for cold weather starts. This is the closest to a solution. Going to have to come up with another system to break to kick back.
I never thought about that one. I don't know how compact the unit would be, but it should be a strong enough one way bearing. Work safe! Thanks for watching!
If that socket is just on the bolt thats a no no It will break. But if your engaging on that hub your safe. The hub is usually notched into flywheel so your not butting all thst torque on that tempered shaft . I broke one off doing just that. But I have a nifty fix for that to. Got it from RU-vid tarylfixall Many good thing there
We have used the ru-vid.comUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
I would check on ebay for cheap ones, also some will lock up in the CW direction and some in the CCW direction. You can always just flip the drive over but now the rigging will be different but doable. Thanks for watching!
i have i 440 igx honda 15 hp on my woodchipper and recoils always breaking i cant get electric start upgrade for it was thinking this metod would a 18 volt drill do this
No, you can not use an impact type tool, they operate by a hammering mechanism and not by brute torque (turning power). An impact would simply tighten the crankshaft nut to the tool's own torque limitation or if that is not the limiting factor the tool will strip the actual crankshaft threads. Thanks for watching!
Don’t do this with gloves on when it starts and you try to remove socket it can catch your glove and rip it off your hand im talking from experience. Also don’t do this because you can break off that nut on the crank shaft it is not made to take that much stress.
Yes on the gloves, nitrile is fine as they tear super easy and would never pull your hand in. The drill is okay but you should start the turning slowly then ramp up. Thanks!
It's possible, I'll dig into it a little. This drill starter is a game changer for me, I know that term is wore out but the drill makes a huge difference. Thanks!
@@pmtips4482 actually that makes no sense. If there was no vacuum it wouldn't suck fuel and not run at all. If it only runs fully open than it must be a lack of air. Idle valve or something might be clogged.
Can you sell me one? I don’t have a welder and I am virtually certain my wife will not look kindly at me buying one and possibly burning down the garage! Nonetheless, love the video I just need to find a way to source the product.
Could you be more specific on the starter drive. I order 1 for 1975 ford 302 V8. It turns counterclockwise. Do you have a part# or link you could share?
Matthew, the exact drive I used is, Ford Lincoln Mercury 1964-72 NOS Starter Drive C6VY-11350-A made in USA, I got it on eBay for 4.00 plus 6.00 shipping. There is one on there now. IMO there are better configured starter drives to mod. If you have access to a lathe, so much the better. Bear this in mind though, any starter drive is a one way bearing that will work either CW or CCW. The inner will be the "driven" and the outer will be the "driver" or vise versa. Makes no difference how your motor needs to turn to start as all cordless drills have a reverse. The difference is how you have to configure the starter drive. Also, if you make one, be careful not to overheat the bearing part as the grease will run out the metal seals/seams. Thanks for watching! Have a good one!
At 5:30 you showed why this is dangerous to begin with. There is not protective covering for the flywheel. 3500 rpm vs. hand = failure. I like the concept but maybe build a guard if you are going to do this all the time.
my drill turend the wrong way , or, the right way for a drill, turning engine backward fast and now no spark, when turning right way , it ran a bit before. guessing the coil made sparks that went inside it damaged it and heat . melted a wire in it.its a gy6 scooter motor and used a strong big long electric drill.
Thanks for watching and commenting! I really can't say what the heck might have happened to your engine on that deal. I can not imagine though any sparks would have had anything to do with any damage. I hope you get it running!
Annette, check out my video on using a ratchet adapter on your drill. It really is plug n play but be careful as the centrifugal force during each start can switch the direction on the adapter. Work safe.
Annette, it can get complicated modding a starter drive, which is a one way bearing, due to sockets, solid rod, and fitting, along with welding. A ratchet adapter can be plug and play. If you can, buy electric start OPE. Thanks and work safe!
Why cant anyone give the starter Drive number?... I have gotten 3 & they were all for different cars & l have purchased one for the vehicle I was told would work.. They all worked the opposite way!... Why is this so hard ????
Hi Dave, based on a one-way bearing operation, a CW or CCW drive will work on an engine running CW or CCW. One side will be the "driver" (inner or outer bearing reference) and the other side will be the "driven" (inner or outer bearing ref.) One way will look more appealing to you as the fabricator, and the other way you look at it might make you think it's not doable, and it may be downright difficult without a lathe access. Does that make sense?
@@pmtips4482 yes I understand ... I was just trying to simplify things and be able to weld 1 extension on each end instead of using a large socket (I have seen that on another video) .... Guess I will just have to do it the socket way to get it to spin in the right direction.
@@pmtips4482 I can confirm as of 1 hour ago, a 12V drill will definitely NOT get the job done lol. I'm dead in the water until I head over to storage to get my corded drill. If only I'd stop leaving gas in generators all the time I wouldn't have to bother starting it w/ a drill!
Nice job brother--I have a Power stroke generator, 6000 W/7200w --I was looking to convert it to a 12 V Electric start system , can find any info on it and Power Stroke is useless, then have no conversion kits
Michael, making one out of a starter drive is not necessary. Go to Amazon and search " ratcheting adapter". I just bought the 3/8 drive to try on my 390cc generator, haven't tried it yet. Simple and just plug and play. Be extra careful your socket don't come off as the engine fires and falls into any rotating cooling fans, etc. The ratchet adapter is a one way bearing with all the work already done, and it's only 12 dollars. Thanks for watching! Stay safe!
Ebay has a few started drives that are pretty cheep, but on the other side of the spline gear, there is a spring And metal hat shaped disc ? Can that be taken off so it will work as shown... Can i assume at low speeds it will engage , but when the motor starts and gets up to running speed the clutch will disengage so you would not break ypur rist holding the drill as other you tubers show . Thanks
Hi Tom and thank you for watching! I did remove the spring and disc on the opposite side of the flywheel gear drive. After removing that and cutting off some excess hollow shaft material, you now have a one way bearing but a heavy duty bearing big enough to turn the engine without slipping. Keep in mind a one way bearing will work no matter if you want to turn your engine CW or CCW, it's just a matter of how you configure your drill starting rig. I did get my starter drive off Ebay and it was only 12 dollars shipped. I had to sacrifice a drive adapter and a socket. It is nice though to not have to worry about the engine not breaking my wrist, or tearing up a cordless drill. As you fabricate your drive unit, just think about the "drive" part (cordless drill) and the "driven" part (engine crankshaft). In my case the engine turns CW, so I fabbed it from there. If you have access to a lathe it would be a fun project as you could keep the material to a minimum in size. I did not have lathe access. Have a good one and work safe!!
eBay, it's a 1970s Ford starter drive. It was only 4 dollars plus shipping so I just bought the cheapest one I could find to experiment on. Thanks for watching!
It wont start because the governor design is flawed and never lets the throttle close to the idle circuit position where a motor needs to be to do a normal start. This is what u get when u buy offshore where the designers (or copy cats) have no practical knowledge of what they are building !
