Can confirm, meal lice to glossy drecko makes it so much easier. Warning: Assuming you're getting hydrogen from electrolyzer, you have a time limit before your meal lice gets too warm to feed your drecko. Rush to steam turbine, understand cooling loops and use as soon as you can. I finally got to understanding all of it it and got it to work this morning.. 3 am time
@@aidanmcmurtrie1424Dreckos don't *consume* the hydrogen. If you fill the room with the right gasses and then cool it down, you don't need to pump in hot gasses after. (It will still warm up because Glossy Dreckos are born at 35°C, but that is practically negligible until several hundred cycles.)
"Failing" some colonies can be very fun at times. The game gets much more enjoyable if/when you accept that the colony or the dupes die at some point. Then you can create fun little stories and each time survive a little bit longer.
@@Luma_plays i usually get attached to certain duplicates especially if they are useful and sped up the process so I always feel the impact when they die and things slow down after their deaths.
Thats the main difficulty curve everyone runs into this game. Where they beat the game Oxygen Not included, then their crops die and realize they are now playing the second game "Thermodynamics Not included"
Video is awesome. Synchronized music and action is hilarious. Amazing how you generated so many thumbs up for such a small community. Community tamer! Great job.
Thanks alot for taking the time to write such a nice comment :) The Oxygen not included community it not the largest but they are one of the friendliest.
*They did a patch about picking up debris and constructing buildings (tiles are fine) diagonally.* A *Fix* would be to use a liquid lock or to do it like this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-L7R-LE_uG4w.html Hey Everyone: Remember if you want to use another liquid for cooling, go and check its freezing point and set the liquid thermo sensor accordingly (~freezing point +15°C) Also super important: when you set the valve value: That is a DUPLICANT TASK (i don't know why) so you need to make it accessible and wait for a duplicant to come by and affirm the setting. Otherwise the value will still output the full 10kg and the system will break. In case the buidling does not work for you you could test the following points: Everything inside the Aquatuner room is key. The tempshift plates are important as well as the exact placement of them. They can be made from any metal or diamond. The 1000 - 2000 kg of water that go in the steam room are also mandadatory. No less than that. You need the metal tiles below the Aquatuner to transfer the heat more quickly (!) before it overheats. The room needs to be properly vacuumed out. No other gas can be in there. The room can also NOT be bigger or smaller. That changes all the heat transfer that is fine-tuned to this size. VERY IMPORTANT: The valve setting has to be 5000g or less. When a value for the valve is set, it is NOT saved/activated yet! A Duplicant needs to have access, come over to the valve and put in the setting (there is no animation for that though). That ruined some of my first builds because i put the valves way to high for the dupes to reach. The placement of the liquid vent is where it is so the water from the steamturbine drops directly on the aquatuner (but I know from what you wrote yours broke before that). The Filter-Gate is there so the aquatuner doesn't switch on and off of all the time. The insulated pipe pices are there to not transfer too much heat into the cooling agent. Things that are optional: You can use less radiant pipe pices on the steam turbine. It only needs to be less than 99 degrees C there. But I am using the steam turbine mass as a buffer too. Everything to the right of the initial rooms exept the valve is optional.
Hey ,your tutorials are super useful . I'm glad that i found this channel . Could you perhaps do a natural gas generator setup ? That's wouldn't be super useful 😉
Yes if i remember correctly the symbol flickers on and off without doing damage. But that is the price you have to pay for tricking the AT into running
Usually I find steel is a lot easier to make than plastic if I'm on an asteroid that lacks dreckos (base game). Getting to the oil biome and setting up a polymer press requires a lot of buildings that metal refineries are needed for, so steel is usually quite close behind especially since Iron is actually the most difficult part to get for ingredients.
i just found a cool steamvent on my world and this is so helpful because my base was overheating also i love your critter videos! can you make some on the new dlc critters?
How to power the aquatuner without any problem? If i use the 1k from a small transformer, there will be not enough. But if i use the big transformer, the wire will be overloaded. I used only conductive wire.
Hello, Conductive wire can transfer 2000 W safely without getting destroyed. So either you hook up less than 2000 W to your 3000 W transformer or you combine 2 1000 W Transformers. Heavy watt wire connecting to the back of both small transformers, conductive wire connecting to both outputs of the transformers. Done.
@@Luma_plays That's mean i need to use 2 small transformer , then hook the wire up to the aquatuner from both of them? I am using 1 transformer now to convert the power from the main power heavy watt wire in to the conductive wire . Thanks
In your current setup: If you use a small transformer then you can only transfer a maximum of 1000W to your cable. If you use a large Transformer you can transfer a maximum of 3000 W to your cable. a small cable can only carry 1000W a conductive wire can carry 2000W Your Aquatuner needs 1200W So you need at least a conductive wire and 2 normal transformers or 1 big transformer. If you use a big transformer make sure to not have more than 2000w power draw on your cable other wise it will break.
Hi Rubles88 Alvarez. Somewhere in between 30 minutes and 2 days :D. It depends on my creativity and weather it works or not. Same goes for testing. If everything works fine and can easily be tested for different parameter it can go quickly. If everything breaks and no fix works the longest I took for testing and rebuilding was 4 days.
@@Luma_plays Good question, I haven't even discovered my magma layer that's how much i've been playing this game. I meant to put this question to the natural gas generator setup but my comments somehow glitched and ended here
Yes you can :). The doors and metal tiles are just for better temperature control. When you want to cool your base with it the cooling power might not be enough depending on the size of your base.
@@Luma_plays if I do a big loop with insulating pipe surround small loop with a liquid shut off to plush small loop when it too hot do you think it doable
"If you want to use the same system but run it with more efficiency without building it new. Add the crude oil and set the valve value to 10kg" Where would that crude oil be? is it in the cooling loop?
Hi 7th Column. Mostly external power. I my older shorts I did not specify that explicitly because most builds need power. So sorry if that was confusing. In this specific build you can either make 2 separate power lines for the aquatuner and the steam turbine or make 1 combined grid
I think I'm gonna give this a go. Two questions, though: 1. The metal tiles and the doors are the places where you "take the cool out", right? Ie, my cooling loop has to be inside those metal tiles? If not, I don't understand that part of the build. And 2. Is this power positive? Since the AT is running 50% of the time... maybe?
Hi Kutai: 1. Yes exactly. You can also just directly use the pipe if you prefer. The metal gives it a cold buffer as well as the option to better controll you output temperature while keeping said buffer. 2. No; for this to be power positive even if the AT ran only 50% of the time you would need to get more than 600W out of the steamturbine.which would require more heat which is in conflict with the AT only running half of the time. Maybe if you use Supercoolant but that defies the whole purpose of this thing beeing super early game. Hope that helped :)
Thanks for pointing that out! Yes, now that you mention it hey did a patch about picking up debris and constructing buildings (tiles are fine) diagonally. A Fix would be to use a liquid lock or do it like this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-L7R-LE_uG4w.html.
Good, that is how you learn efficiently. I failed a few colonies and then just played the first 35 cycles about 10 to 15 times until I felt comfortable. Then I tried to intentionally fail the base and noticed it gets harder to fail the more you already learned :)
Would you make this video as a normal youtube one ? Since youtube short is really stupid. I can't forward / stop / rewind or save the video..... -_- hate youtube short very much.
@@Luma_plays Thanks for the timestamp link. With that you could just pin a comment with the timestamp link to the short and not worry about making it a 'normal' video. Great work on the content too!
The water on the right is there to even out the temperature. you can replace it with a metal tile or use more water. More water would mean it takes longer for the initial cooling but it will store a larger amount of "cooling" in the system. Meaning if you want to cool something that the system can not handle because it is too hot you can pre cool a large amount of water and then use the cooled water as a buffer. The doors are there so if you want to cool something for example another liquid, you run a radiant pipe through the door and flick the switch so the doors are closed. Then the heat gets transferred. If the doors are open there will be a vacuum between the metal tiles and no heat will be transferred. So it is just there to cut the cooling in case you want to reroute some pipes or for other reasons.
Those are tempshiftplates. They can be build out of almost anything. They are there to be a necessary help for heat dispersion in this build. So you will need to build them out of something that has a high thermal conductivity like refined metals, or gold amalgam. Can't remember what I used here. Check the description maybe I put more info there :)
@@Luma_plays Lol thanks found out after looking. Than I hit another snag, plastic for the cooling. I attempted to mimic your build for cooling but I haven't tapped in to plastic because I'm in a power scarcity situation at the moment, hence why I built this build but I haven't started it yet. I reverted to Coal at them moment so I can get my dupes to look for Oil while keeping the base powered as long as possible
@@coconutcute712 No the DLC let's us work for the materials and critter. by going to a secondary planetoid you can get them. You either get oil there or a drecko. If you get oil i would build a proper aquatuner setup :D Still always good to know ones options.
@@coconutcute712 I have the DLC and my starting planetoid had Dreckos. Its relatively easy to get Glossy ones if you get the story strait Critter Flux O'Matic or put them in a chamber with a diet consisting of only mealwood (planted, not fed through feeder - set auto harvest off)
@@Luma_plays ..ABOUT AQUATUNER MUST NOT OVERHEAT??....IF IT'S ON ON PH2O,IF 2 TURBINES HANDLE THE LOAD PRETTY MUCH NICE,TESTED ON MYSELF,EVEN ACTIVE COOLING ISNT NEEDED...AROUND 129⁰C AT FULL TIME ....AND POINT OF DESIGN THAT 1 TURBINE DESIGN TO WORK AT 200⁰C,RIGHT???AND FROM GOLDEN AMALGAM HANDLES ONLY 175⁰C......RIGHT???....SO ALL THE STUFF TO OVERCOME THIS ISSUE,RIGHT?? .........AND,AS FAR AS I UNDERSTOOD THERE ARE EVEN MORE COMPLEX ABOMINATIONS ARE AROUND NOW WHICH SCARE NEWBIES SO MUCH SO THEY JUST REFUSE TO EVEN THINK ABOUT BUILDING A TURBINE.......
No it is not designed to go to 200°C It is designed to let the AT run enough to cool with cheap material without overheating. And yes there are even wilder. Construction that new people try to build just to avoid steel or Plastic :D
Hi the Collective. More liquid keeps the system stable. 1000kg is 1 full square of water. or 5 full water bottles. 1000kg might prevent heat spikes that a normal system with steel can handle but a steel free system should avoid. In a normal steel system 1 full water bottle i.e. 200 kg is enough. Since i can't remember myself (i build this long ago) and i said 1000 kg for the steel free version i myself would start with 1000 kg and only reduce it after testing further.
Hello, not sure who you are talking about, it is a nice song (Powerup! by Jeremy Blake as far as i recall); here is some info: that song is probably used by thousands of youtubers. It is in the youtube audio library and can be used for your videos without fear of copyright strikes. Hence the widespread use. Check the description of the video for the title and interpret. :)
@@HaYToKoRaZ Hi sorry for not answering. The comment got automatically blocked because of the link. I am working on a method of sharing more stuff but i donÄt have the time at the moment sorry for that :/
Nope. Normal aquatuner breaks above 125C.but with gold amalgam it's 175C. Steam turbine needs steam above 125C to work, so it's fine. The big challenge is the low thermal conductivity and heat capacity of the gold amalgam aquatuner, hence the tempshift plates, metal tiles and lots of water in the steam room.
Hey Josué I hope it is not a flaw in the build since my tests showed it worked fine for hundreds of cycles. But you could never be sure in a game where every tiny material difference matters. Could you test the following points?: Everything inside the Aquatuner room is key. The tempshift plates are important as well as the exact placement of them. They can be made from any metal or diamond. The 1000 - 2000 kg of water that go in the steam room are also mandadatory. No less than that. You need the metal tiles below the Aquatuner to transfer the heat more quickly (!) before it overheats. The room needs to be properly vacuumed out. No other gas can be in there. The room can also NOT be bigger or smaller. That changes all the heat transfer that is fine-tuned to this size. VERY IMPORTANT: The valve setting has to be 5000g or less. When a value for the valve is set, it is NOT saved/activated yet! A Duplicant needs to have access, come over to the valve and put in the setting (there is no animation for that though). That ruined some of my first builds because i put the valves way to high for the dupes to reach. The placement of the liquid vent is where it is so the water from the steamturbine drops directly on the aquatuner (but I know from what you wrote yours broke before that). The Filter-Gate is there so the aquatuner doesn't switch on and off of all the time. The insulated pipe pices are there to not transfer too much heat into the cooling agent. Things that are optional: You can use less radiant pipe pices on the steam turbine. It only needs to be less than 99 degrees C there. But I am using the steam turbine mass as a buffer too. Everything to the right of the initial rooms exept the valve is optional. If it still not works I would be glad i you could send a screenshot or something like that in the discord so I can check where my/a mistake might be. :)
Hey Yuen tschang, The concept of aquatuner steam turbine setups does. This setup works as well. But you can no longer corner build (build diagonally through a sealed corner). Which means you might need to approach the construction of this slightly different.
The Steam Turbine can be build from any refined metal plus plastic. Plastic can come from Glossy dreckos or maybr from deconstructing POIs (not sure about the second one) I used Dreckos for plastic in the first let's play until pretty late in the game. :)
Yes of course. Like any active cooling system. If you want to get the energy for your cooling from somewhere it is good to inlcude a volcano and add a few more turbines.
