Hello guys! Thanks for watching. I forgot to mention that in the video: I do not claim that; This method is 100% realistic or accurate. I just exaggerated it as much as possible for better understanding. Don't forget that I am a publisher as well as a modeler. My goal in this regard was not to build a model, but to produce video content. I have always stayed away from discussions of realism in the model. Because it is a never-ending subject. Instead, I preferred to focus on the craftsmanship part of the hobby. Anyone can apply this effect to their model as much as they wish. Yes, it was a little too much for my taste. Normally, I prefer to add another layer of filter and soften the effect.
Don't know who complained about the paint description cards, but they were PERFECT sir. Dunno who cannot understand simple percentages and all, but to me they were cristal clear.
If 100% of his viewers don't understand, then his method of presentation is not perfect. It's his job to present his content in a manner understandable by all.
Thanks for the feedback. No worry I will continue to use the ratio charts. I made this video for that kind of questions. I will link this and solve the problem.
Outstanding post shading tutorial. Looks like a job that will cause a lot of hand cramping ! Great end result and would look great for a black finish ( like a P-61 Black widow ). Thanks for the valuable tips on this process !
Thanks for the feedback. Yes that's why I use H&S . No need to pull trigger, it works with micro movements. But really hard to learn how to use them. Most people hate them but when you tame you will love it.
@@Scaleaton I have heard a lot about them over the years. I use a IWATA custom micron and they are picky if you do not keep clean. I'd like to try a H&S, seams a lot of modelers use them. Thanks for the tip !
Looks amazing especially as the color of the primer shines through. I can feel the pain in my trigger finger when I look at the tedious airbrush work. Great tutorial!
This is great! Watch you do this on your videos, but a whole video dedicated to it has really helped me get a better idea of the techniques and methods used!
I have to say this video is VERY VERY helpful. I was struggling with this method for a long time because I did not know the density of the paint. After seeing this video I have confident to reproduce the effect. I think you are absolute right, craftsmanship is the best part of the modeling. Thank you for the demonstration. I guess you are using 0.2 mm needle.
Man u really stored a model 8 years! Mine didn't even experienced 1 except the new ones i made. Cleaning them from dust destroyed them over the time :(
Hello Rahmi! You call this therapy but it's not an easy technique at all. 🙂 The results, on the other hand, are spectacular! In any case I believe that post shading is the way to go. Thank you for the demonstration!
Hi Scale-a-ton! I enjoy watching your videos and I slowly try to apply some of the ideas to my own hobby. It'll be a while before I can do anything on your level! xD But I got time. I was wondering if you have a video on priming/painting airplanes. Or indeed anything involving masking tape. My issue is that the paint flosses when I pull of the masking tape. I've learned that this happens if I let the paint cure fully. I often leave my models primed for weeks if not months before I start painting them. Then I leave them again, before I panel line and weather. For most of my models involving masking tape, I usually let them stand with masking tape and cured paint for months, before pulling off the tape and getting a flossed surface. I don't know how to attack this problem. I want the paint and primer to cure fully, because I handle the model while painting it. If the primer and paint isn't cured, it'll just rub off. Is there a trick to this I'm unaware of. Thanks for your time and your content. I'm off to find a cockpit painting tutorial on your channel, so I'm ready for the P-47 I have next to me! :) Happy building and hobby.
Hi, very interested in how you achieve such a fine line with the airbrush with the needle so far from the model? It looks like you are about 20m-30mmm from the surface….using a 0.2mm needle in my brush, I need to be approx 10 -15 mm from the surface. Thanks! Also, are you using acrylics? Or solvent based?
At the end of the whole process, do you apply some type of lacquer? In my case I do something similar, but when applying lacquer to protect the paint, much of the effect disappears, especially the light colors.
Even the corsairs of the Honduras Air Force after 20 years of storage outside in a tropical weather were not that weathered . good technic tuto though.
I think that the intent of the video was to demonstrate techniques, not to provide an accurate and realistic replication of an actual aircraft. The exaggeration of the effects serves as an effective tutorial tool. I thought it was quite well done and useful. The display of low pressure/high dilution detailed airbrush technique in postshading was brilliant IMO.
Sir.. it,s IMPOSSIBLE....how an ww2 F4U1D with a dark sea blue GLOSS paint can be so dirty in an aircraft carrier ???? Only 3 tone paint scheme were Matt. .also, in the end of WW2, mostly all USN aircraft were not more than 18 month old and cannot look like a 70s car in a barn today !!!!. it,s impossible to have a dirty airplane like this in the Pacific on a glossy paint with also tropical rain, wind, on a aircraft carrier.. watch all the video.. you will never find any USN warplanes so dirty. Some look like brand new. But your job can be very nice on a truck during ww2 or Korea war
