Ok let me clarify what I said in this video if the saw is running crappy in limp mode then do the 10 to 15 min idle to reset it but if they are running ok then just let them idle to warm up for a couple of minutes and after heavy cuts idle for a couple of minutes sorry I should of done a different video to correct that but you all I hope understand what I meant eh good luck there a great saw
With just the muffler and filter mods they’ve been the most reliable saws I’ve run. Starts and runs on 1-3 pulls every time all day. Give ‘em warm up time just like any responsible saw owner would any other saw. Don’t touch the trigger when you start them. Don’t run em dry on fuel. Give them 5-10 seconds of adjustment time at idle before you turn them off after a work load. Done. Way easier than a conventional carb
Couldn't agree more! Mines 3 years old now 5 days a week climbing saw fire wood saw rain heat dust. Fully stock all I've done is replaced air fuel and spark plugs and I've even crushed the saw under a log I don't know what people are complaining about there fine stock in my opinion.
we just run them clean air filter and run the shit out of them no problems 28" bars and bark box mufflers thats all !no problems at all x1 year in woods and constant bucking firewood all summer in the heat !
@@andrewslagle1974 that sounds better. I am not letting my saw idle for 15 min prior to each use. Just like I am not waiting 45 mins at a convenience store to charge my car. Progress.
Yep that's why I chuck the m tronic out of the 661 and put a old school carb and coil in,great comfort from the modern stihl,but can't get non m tronic 661 here in nz so have to do it my self
You are the king of saw repair. Wish we could have saw your Dad in his prime. You're certainly carrying on the family tradition. GREAT video as ALWAYS. 👍👍😎 Pat from nw Wisconsin
Great info Donny, I have the Barkbox on mine and have had no trouble, thanks for the tips on how to keep it running smooth. And the guy at the end trying to close the door with his foot was comedy gold! 🤓
Good tips Donny, it seems like both Husky and Stihl computer carbs need to be left alone when you start them, the computer need to run its checks and can’t do that if you’re on the throttle right away 😉👍
I’ve been running this saw for two years and have literally no problems ever. The owner’s manual makes no mention of going full throttle to start up. I know, readings hard. Also I’ve never had to let it idle after a hard cut or even at start up lol
It’s not hard and there’s no extra effort with this saw. Cold saw: start it like a modern car- no one stomps on the gas pedal right? Let it warm up idling for a few minutes which is needed for a small engine - or any engine. It doesn’t need to sit there for a long time, 5 mins tops. 15 mins is ridiculous and would be aggravating as a user. After short cuts, idle for a few seconds, then off - just don’t hit kill as the RPMs are coming down. Long cuts, longer idle which you do anyway and for primary purposes of cooling - the fuel injection doesn’t need long idle after cutting but the cooling need is there. Sitting unused for 10 min or less it’ll start one pull, sitting longer you’ll need some priming and it’s going again with 2-3 pulls. And don’t touch the throttle - it’s redundant with fuel injection. Overall It’s really simple - many are overcomplicating and/or overthinking this.
Precisely the second biggest reason why I ONLY buy standard/old-school carbed saws. Braaapppp braaaapppp. Plus... I enjoy tinkering with carbs and stuff like that
Howdy Mr donny, been wondering about these 500 stihls,watched buckin run his and that power is 2nd to none but he.had problems also,don't know if I can pony up the 2 grand hoping to not have.problems,really don't know if I like the computer saw or not,would like to run one though!!! But thanks for the intell, at.70 now need another sawing like another wife man!!!Lol.lmfao LOL 😅😊thanks for ringing in!!! Pleasure as always Sierra.John 😅😅
I'm just here to read the comments of peeps freaking out about new tech... I'm not disappointed. People are so predictable. Only surround yourself with people who are willing to accept change. I don't have the energy for people fighting everything. Considering its a first in production saw. I think they've done pretty well overall. Like people arguing over turbo charged gas engines. You don't see them whining about turbos on diesels.
Stihl must have been going bald pulling their hair out over users who flat refused to read the book and teach themselves how to allow the saw to learn about the prevailing conditions. Ever since the C-M's came out there has been a succession of folk making themselves look stupid by cursing the saw when they were patently to blame.I love my computer controlled Stihls, have done for years and wouldn't go back to a carb' that needs a tweek with a screwdriver.
Ran a 500i for 2 week land clearing job. I’m used to huskies. I don’t know what kind of compression these 500i’s have but dang, that saw was not fun to start/stop as the compression stroke and horrible ergonomics of the starter handle sucked so bad compared to husky. Never had to pull my huskies more than 3 times to fire them up this freaking 500i took 5 pulls about every other time, until I realized you HAVE to pump the primer bulb 8 times before every start. What a pita. “Progress”. Next job I’ll use my own orange saw that starts easily.
I jus ain't impressed at all with the 500i jus my not important opinion lol the 400 is a better bang for the buck. Jus my thoughts tho have a great weekend sir.
@@victoriousvictor7978 the power to weight is lacking the suspension is way to soft harness issues as well as a few computer tuning issues. And over priced for what they are. Jus my 2cents lol.
@@justinweaver8107 absolutely. I bought mine new and instantly did a muffler mod. I cut up 15 cords of oak firewood then sold it to a buddy who ported it. The only 2 things I didn't like was how mashy setting the choke felt and the plastic feeling handle bar. Otherwise great saw. Feels lighter then 562 as well
The guys in the back ground are Donny's talking to himself again lol. I'll stick with the 462 it works for me, its not old school like my 046 Magnum I had.
I gotta be honest.. I am fairly patient, but I don't think I've patience enough for this machine. From what I understand, the 500i (*after a proper 15 min calibration) is excellent through big cuts but is a gas hog and cannot be leaned out. Of course, the same as true for M-Tronics and Husky X-Torq (I cannot believe that these companies no longer offer big saws with a standard carburetor *What customer profile do they think they are selling these saws to?). I wish that the 500i came with a Dual Response trigger- so that the saw could be run both rich and lean, For example.. If limbing or bucking small wood, you could rock this trigger forward with index finger, and the saw would run ~lean. If felling or bucking big timber, you could rock this trigger backward with middle, ring, and pinky fingers, and the saw would run ~rich. This way the computer doesn't have to figure it out. The fuel injection system could respond immediately based on 2 preset fuel requirements. No down time waiting on RECALIBRATION to idle "neutral" parameters. The thing shouldn't have to make complicated calculations. It is not a vehicle traversing ever-changing terrain. Operators know when a cut requires heavy fuel consumption or not. A duel response trigger would simplify fuel monitering/metering.
I do not know about the M-tronics or even the 500i, but the 572XP and the 592XP are pretty fuel efficient if one has them in big wood where they are really working and producing. AND there are carb versions of the Husqvarna 5 series. I do let my 5 series saws warm up, but I have not let it go on for 15 minutes -- maybe 5 and then another 5 before stopping for fuel or service to allow cooling.
Hi Donny, Just wondering if you ever get a 500i coming in for repair due to clogged injectors, for example those caused by ethanol fuels, or are the injectors generally trouble free? Thanks and a happy new year to you all.
Great content Donny !! I have a 562XP and 572XP love them, a guy told me to put a 8 tooth sprocket on the 572 to get more out of it ! is that a good option if so what's the part # Thanks
500i won't start. I unplugged the 3 connectors on the right side to put electrical tape on the wires and at first it fired up and idled really high (like half throttle) and now it won't start at all
@@donnywalker4691 I knew. I did see that Billy Ray followed your recommendation to the letter. I'm glad he is happy with the 500i finally. I too went thru the same problems with the 500i and my other new M-Tronic saws. 🙂
Chainsaws should NOT have a computer and a USB port on them. I only own and will continue to buy conventional carbed saws. They are easy to adjust and I can fix them myself without a computer software program.
That’s kinda mess up you got do all his stuff just to get it run right run 25 min before you start cutting then 15 min after cutting or higher elevation the let idle 10-15 min to finicky I will stick to my 441 and 661 saw
That was interesting so it a computer program in in it I have a interest in the 500i but I don’t feel it’s worth pumping a extra 200-300 fix stuff that Sthil should be addressed I use sthil my sell have a 661 love it but the 500 I I feel they make it to cheep that my opinion only i am not staying not to buy one or any thing like that 👍👍👍👍👍😎
yeah I'm a dinosaur....but computerizing saws is an unnecessary complication in the build with questionable payback. You see the cost of automobiles, their complexities, their many failure points due to all the computer controlled everything. And we want this in saws? The saw builders want it, and probably it is driven some by this environmental crap but it is doing nothing but making cost and trouble for saw users.
My chain tensioner is shot! Haven't used the 500i that much but I have used it on a Alaska sawmill with a 3 ft bar. I don't know it just seems a little weak in the chain housing. It will not tighten. Am I doing something wrong? Is it the wrong saw for the Alaskan mill? How do I beef this up?
