For real though! The man adjusted the valves talked for 30 mins and it ran the same as it did in the beginning then he tries to adjust the carb which all this time we all watching can't even see and it's so filthy he's not capable of adjusting it and then and only then he thinks to clean it! Maybe, just maybe that was the problem to begin with, lol! Omg! Nah, 99% of the time this type of equipment just needs to be cleaned and maintained properly, in this case both, but I can almost guarantee just simply cleaning that carburettor off is what actually solved the problem in this case. I have a br600 and have never needed to adjust the carburettor or the valves. I replaced the carburettor once as was necessary.
Good video on showing how to do the maintenance, these blowers seem to always have a need for valve adjustment yearly. There's no locking screw or nut to help hold the adjustment in place. The one thing I would recommend is to clean up the blower before servicing. I noticed when you pulled the valve cover off and the spark plug pulled, there was all kinds of debris that could fall into the cylinder from the plug pulled sand, dirt and the laundry list goes on, the same for the valve cover. I not saying any fell in yours, however it was really dirty, and you reinstalled everything with the dirt still in place. Just for the people who view the videos, a word of caution, Clean first, then do the repair or maintenance. The risk of working with dirt, sand etc. in open areas of the motor is bad. Anyway, Great video.
Just bought a BR600Z used ans have been fixing it up (needed spark plug, pull cord and control handle) and couldn't figure out how to fix my throttle control. This video has been perfect. Thanks for the help!
Dude ! Dude !! Thank you !!! What do I need to adjust or replace or clean? I've got a 7-9 yr old 600 that gets 50-60hrs of use per year. 95% in the fall. Treat it well otherwise, but NEVER serviced it till yesterday. Other than jiggling on their own, adjusting screws remain at factory settings. New air, both fuel filters + a new plug. It Stihl runs great, but idle will be slow enough for it to cut off if no throttle use in the first few minutes after starting. Idle was like this prior to replacing the filters/plug. Carb, throttle...?
I've had mine going hard for about 4 years and finally now starting to have some issues. I've never done anything to it in all those years. Guess we will see tomorrow! I'm going to guess the spark arrester is in bad shape.
The man adjusted the valves talked for 30 mins and it ran the same as it did in the beginning then he tries to adjust the carb which all this time we all watching can't even see and it's so filthy he's not capable of adjusting it and then and only then he thinks to clean it! Maybe, just maybe that was the problem to begin with, lol! Omg! Nah, 99% of the time this type of equipment just needs to be cleaned and maintained properly, in this case both, but I can almost guarantee just simply cleaning that carburettor off is what actually solved the problem in this case. I have a br600 and have never needed to adjust the carburettor or the valves. I replaced the carburettor once as was necessary.
Not sure what you mean by it jumps up. Is it hard to pull the cord? If so it is time to adjust the valve lash. Start with some easy things. Is the fuel fresh and free of any water contamination? Drain all the fuel into a clear container and see. Check for spark. Then remove the recoil assembly and check for play in the crankshaft. Inspect the fuel lines and make sure there are no leaks or cracks in the lines. Hope that helps.
The Stihl manual does not give a max rpm speed. Rather it gives a high speed adjustment to the carb. Other sites say 7200 rpm but I can't give any recommendation. I tune by ear on the blowers and leave it at a richer setting than peak rpm just to be safe. Remember the leaner you set the carb the less lubrication the engine gets. If you burn up the bearings in a br600/700/800 the unit is basically cost prohibitive to repair and becomes a parts unit.
I have a manual here. Operation speed with nozzle: BR500 5500 rpm, BR550 6100 rpm and BR600 7200 rpm. Idle speed all 2500 rpm. Spark plug gap 0.7 mm. Air gap between ignition module and fanwheel 0.15...0.3 mm (0.006...0.012 in)
It’s a 1.0 mm marking Not .010” it’s.004 “ ... speaking to the Stihl feeler gauge it’s thickness measures .004” Stihl recommends you place the piston at TDC , but the correct TDC where the rocker arms do not move if you rotate slightly left and right the Flywheel/ Starter Cup .
@@cbnx82703 I’m looking at my feeler gauge right now. You had it right in your first post .004” not .04 (.0394) as you just stated. Google .004 in to mm you get .1016 mm
Hard to argue when the Stihl feeler gauge has 10 stamped on it. I haven't measured it to be honest, .004 is a more common gap for a 4 cycle lawnmower engine. As long as you're doing regular adjustments I believe that's more important.
@@celluloidheros That makes more sense. I actually measured it and it was .004-.005. I should have known it was metric. The rest of the world laughs at our system of Bananas.......
@@jcmurr2669 is that sarcasm...?if so I see daily how many don't even own or use compressor. I work on my own saws tools and almost every guy in tree work here does not use one or maintain there equipment. Thanks fir commenting or watching the video probly was better answer there ..growvtired of child behavoir
