Hopefully this better demonstrates the issue. This was after having it occur multiple times over 2 days and I was trying to replicate the problem with it and other chains.
I forgot to ask... Is this phenomenon determined only by the absolute width of the kerf? Will chains such as .325 or 3/8 LP be even worse in this case? Or does another parameter of Hexa still have an influence here? Excerpt from a (very) old McCulloch manual: The correct top filing angle for all general types of cutting is 35 degrees. If your chain begins to bind after your chain teeth have been filed about halfway back, try using a 45-degree top filing angle. This will give you a little wider cut in the wood and make your chain run easier.
So far it's only Hexa that's done it to me. In That same piece of wood I tried with a 21lpx that's over half worn and it worked ok. I'm not sure if it's that bar or not. I'm out cutting now for the week and bought a 84dl Hexa just to try something with it so I should be able to give a better answer in a day or 2. I have a ridiculous amount of different chains with me this time to try and work a few things out. If there's anything you want to see let me know, have a dcs460, ms310, 288 clone, 660 and the 880 with me. Can run the same bar and chains on the 310, 288 and 660.
@@SawChainTheories When it comes to Hexa all I can think of is the relationship of chain width to bar thickness. Perhaps for good reason, Oregon for NK chains also has special NK bars. I wonder if actually increasing the sharpening angle from 25 to 30° or even 35° could make a difference here.
How far back is the hexa filed? I’m guessing once it’s about halfway back it’s too narrow for a regular 3/8 bar and done. The .325 narrow kerf chains have narrow kerf bars just for them. The Oregon speed cut acts the same way as the hexa, you can’t use the whole cutter.
It's about a 1/3 through. The width of that Oregon is the same as some other 3/8 bars I have. It only does this on some types of trees and only when green.
