I’m in full agreement of keeping stuff out of land fills. I’ve got several saws waiting for parts. What was your deciding factor for your decision? Sorry if I missed it.
Well your a genius. Mine wouldn't start and not getting gas and sure enough the choke was not closing all the way. I bent that linkage and bingo. I never would have noticed that even after trying a spare parts saw carb. It's amazing something so simple causes folks to throw away good stuff. Thanks for posting the info!
I gave it some thought and added the "thanks" button below the videos. Feel free to use it or don't. The choice is yours. I appreciate you watching the videos and am happy to hear I'm not wasting my time making them.
@@TheGreasyShopRag You are certainly not wasting your time and your videos are very appreciated. I just fancied donating a few dollars so you could buy yourself a beer.
bought a 180 right from the start it would start when it wanted to. i,m told it was a bad spark plug,or i don,t know how to start a chain saw, i put up with this for 2 yrs,had it apart ,but never found anything wrong ,one day i got so mad i bought an echo saw it starts ,so one day i took the stihl apart again, pulled the gas tank out and found what was wrong,the hole for the hose was at the wrong place ,so they put a piece of plastic in the hole ,so i removed the plastic and put a screw in the hole, guess what it starts,a screw up from the factory
Good catch. The choke linkage on those isnt the smoothest. One thing I just figured out- the air cover hold down tab that gets floppy on that style cover can be replaced with the newer button flat head slot tab and it holds a lot better. However, the old style cant go on the newer style cover.
Great work . I have trouble keeping mine idling from cold and just cuts out . Once its warm its great . Ive reduced the amount of oil in the petrol ill see if that works . You any other ideas, im going to increase the idle speed Tommorrow see if it helps .
It sounds like its running lean on the low speed jet. They used a few different carbs but you probably only have a low speed and idle speed. Back the L out a quarter turn and increase the idle if needed.
The bent linkage may have allowed the choke to flutter and create the wear. Either way, the needed repair was to straighten the linkage and replace the worn arm.
Another great video! I always learn from your experience. One thing I am careful with on the ms180/ ms170's us the removal and installation of the control lever. That left side pivot clip is scary so I'm extra gentle not to break it
If you think the ms180 is a POS wait until you see the new ms162 that replaced the 170’s. I can’t believe that Stihl has placed their name on this junk.
Good evening, Scott! I ran my rebuilt 562xp for the longest period today (an hour), and at the end of this the saw began to bog in the cut, it would start at normal rpm's, drop, then raise rpm's again then drop again. The only part of the saw I really haven't messed with is the carb, do you think there may be an issue with the fuel pump or metering lever/diaphragm?
Its certainly possible but I like to rule out other possibilities first. Look at the spark arrestor screen for debris(internal engine parts). check the cylinder for scoring. Inspect fuel filter/pressure test fuel line. That stuff is all quick and easy. Check carb screen and if ok does it pass a pressure/vaccuum test?
@@TheGreasyShopRag I have some pictures of the exhaust port side of the piston, is there a way I could send those to you? You've helped me a lot with this project over the last...month and a half or so now! I just checked spark arrestor, it was fine, fuel line pressure test was fine, and before I put it back together originally I did confirm that the saw held pressure and vacuum perfectly...might have to recheck that now, though. Only thing I really haven't tested was the carb...so I suspect something needs to be replaced inside that.
so many mistakes. I have several 017 chainsaws with hundreds and hundreds of hours and the linkages never wore out. Also you never depressed the throttle and the operator presence lever all the way. No issues with the saw just a poor mechanic.
So because you never ran a saw long enough to wear out the linkage then nobody has? Didn't you see the major groove worn in the choke lever shaft on the carb? I didn't make that up, it was right there for you to see. As for the poor mechanic comment, I'm fine with that. Your opinion is welcome here.
Two possibilities come to mind. Maybe someone actually did play mechanic and bend it to compensate for the wear in that slot on the choke linkage. Another posibility is that wonky choke lever setup. If you don't pull the trigger while trying to set the choke then all kinds of binding is happening.
I Worked on One of Those a Few Days Ago and It Had a Bad Case Were The Tabs Were Worn Out that Hold The Black Plastic Choke Cross Shaft Linkage Down in Place Whenever You Would Go To Manipulate The Cross Shaft It Would Pop Back out of Place in The Case Tabs 😐😩😐
