I made my own version of a stock knife. I removed the handles from a draw knife, attached a wooden handle on one end and twisted the other end into the hook. I love it and use it for cuts that would be much harder with other tools. Leverage is a wonderful thing.
This is not a stock knife, it is a peg knife originally made for cutting tent pegs. A stock knife has more of a curved angle at the join of the blade and handle, so when you are cutting clogs you can hold the blade ant 90 degrees to the bench without the handle being in front of your face. I am a clogmaker and use a stock knife everyday. The blade looks good and cuts well. Originally a stock knife was made with two different metals, iron for the handle and hook and the back of the blade and the cutting edge was tool steel. i do like your blade.
I made one by repurposing a long draw knife. I have just this week come by a school bus leaf spring so hope to copy what you have done. Your design in my opinion is exactly correct as is your technique. Very well done, thank you for sharing.
Thank you kindly! I certainly don't claim to be an expert on stock knives. I've only tried to emulate the originals as best I can for a tool that's fairly exotic for my corner of the world. Good luck on your new stock knife, leaf springs seem to be a good steel for these. I'm still happy with mine well over a year later with lots of use in between.
Such a great tool. You get remarkable leverage and control. This basic design could be adapted for lots of uses. I’m working in my head on a tool that uses an axe for the blade and handle to cut up kindling.
The stock knife, also known as the blocker, is the straight bladed british clog swivel knife, one of a set of three with the hollower and the gripper. At some point in the last twenty years, a group of generalist muppets in the english greenwood movement started referring to all similar knives [such as peg knives] as stock knives despite the traditional pegmakers having never heard the term...... Having started earning a living with clog knives before the greenwood movement existed I'm in a unique position to comment. I entirely discount the american terminology. I have no idea where the usage came from, but I speak english, not american. I don't know if the USA usage came recently from the UK or if some book or website is where this all derives from. f so I've not seen it.
@@mtmtodd For decades I was the only person in the world using this tool commercially, though latterly the national Museum of Wales had me teach Geraint and since then I've tried to help others. Nothing special, I just happened to be the last person, that's all.
@@jeremyatkinson4976 lol - you're funny. I am sure you are the only person in your world using this tool commercially for decades. How self absorbed are you? A lot it turns out!
Oh one other thing…pieces like to slide around as they did in yr video. Sometimes I clamp a strip of wood to my base or use an piece of thin carpet pad to solve that problem.
Not really a stock knife, rather a lightweight american copy with the bevel on the wrong side. I used to find it tore end grain. Get it really sharp and it won't, well not after Nic Westermann has set one up. To stop the bench walking attach a piece of thin plank across the base of the legs and stand on it. Cut or chainsaw notches and hollows into the bench to stop the carved object slipping. Old benches have adjustable height rings [as swivel chairs] You can then use an end grain block and peg system to raise the height of the work piece. The dutch klompen knife is very close to your knife,[they use very soft willow and grey poplar]. The french Paroir is a more elegant medieval design for making sabots. You try heavy work with your blade and it will flex. Your knife is optimised for making tent pegs with one difference. Pegging knives tend to have a gap between hook and blade as you don't roll a heel when pegging. There's both commercial pegmakers and a commercial clogger in Herefordshire England. The only place in the world that I know of to be able to state that.
Those are good suggestions Jeremy. At long last, a useful comment from you. I see you do the same thing over and over on multiple videos across multiple channels. I looked to see if you had any helpful video content to share, showing you using the pucka stock knife. And of course......
Thanks for this video! Just found you after researching clog making knives! Keep at it my friend- excellent and Bravo! Subscribed! Any chance of you doing a "deep dive into the edge geometry you describe as a Scissor-Edge?
Isn’t the interlocked grain advantageous for structural integrity rather than straight grain which is more prone to splitting? Great video of an almost lost process. Your comments on Sloyd philosophy are valid, though it is also a known fact that the larger the chip is, the less energy is put into the process, and the quicker you get it to the final polishing. Shear cuts are the best to control, lessening the chances of splitting and ruining the item. Control is the key, and if you were just using a knife we could see the same amount of work literally hours and hours later. Wonderful build, you can always polish the blade when you are bored, but wouldn’t that take away from the idea? Good on ya!
