Thank you SO MUCH for these tips!! We're about to tackle wall side kitchen countertop but were so nervous. The island went amazing but a backspash is much more challenging!!
I am doing my first countertop Monday and the Carrera marble with an integrated backsplash .. so I couldn’t-have asked for more info !!!! Thank you so much!
I see that this is 4 years old, my first time seeing it. Some helpful advice for this type of application and I understand that it’s a sample board for the customer, and this is a pretty simple design. I think that’s good because a more detailed design and over an entire countertop, like 30 or 40 square feet, all by yourself could be a big undertaking. I’d say, keep it simple, use only one or two colors besides the base coat. Have a helper or two and maybe do a practice piece with them so everyone’s on the same page. At least someone to help spot areas that the color has pooled in the corner making a too dark spot and it sets up before you can spread it out. I think a goof in the corner would be next to impossible to correct because of being very difficult to sand in there and re epoxy it.
You are absolutely amazing.. I could watch you all day. I use epoxy on my bathroom cabinets which had 1/2 higher outer area than the inter area, awful. I've been working for weeks to remove the epoxy. I'm still not sure that when I'm finished, if that ever happens, what to try next. Oh, by the way, where are you from? I hear a bit of the south.
Oh I thought about it but don’t want to do that. I saw Mike in a 1 year RU-vid video today doing a habitat for humanity dual vanity sink that had a top like mine and he used a “Stone” Rustoleum paint that look like corian. I may play around with that or similar because then the paint design will stay on backsplash. Thank you for responding RK3!
Thank you for an awesome video. My question is: Can I do the integrated backsplash first, let it dry and then do the countertops the next day? I really want to take my time with the backsplash and not have to rush. Thank you!!
how perfect does the substrate have to be before you coat with the epoxy. i made new countertops out of mdf and went over it with a belt sander with way to aggressive paper. I now have scratches over most of the surface even after sanding with 120 . will it be seen even after doing a dirty pour
Stone pat has a thickener product you add to epoxy so you can do vertical surfaces like walls and baseboards. Have you ever used that product? It’s fairly inexpensive.
I have used the thickener, but I very rarely do vertical surfaces. I will pour flat then hang or attach to wall when dry. I do use the thickener with the quick coat to bond seams together.
@@marysorrells you can add the thickener but it will change the color of the epoxy. It will also give a sort of texture. Also effects like fracturing won't work over the epoxy with texture added. If I were going to use the thickener, I would trowel it on the whole countertop so the surface would all look the same. Let me play with it and I'll do a video. 🙂
It depends on what epoxy you are using. I find it better to lightly torch instead of using alcohol. Too much alcohol on the surface can cause your finish to run and have a blurry appearance.
What are you using to hold the piece of counter up?? No matter what I search on Amazon I just can't find them! I don't know what I'm missing lol help please
I have a house that we are in the finishing stages of. I chose to build my bartop and top it with a rock looking porcelain tile, put a decorative wooden edge on it and do an epoxy pour of approximately 1/8 to 1/2 epoxy pour over it to make it have a level top since it will be our eating surface. I never dreamed that it could not be done. A lot of my research has led me to believe this. It is brand new and I obviously don't want to grind it flat. Can I get some of your thoughts and possible solutions for this problem? The tile is made to be rough and to look like rocks. I got it at Home Depot and the name of it is MSI Neptune Gold. The tiles are 17.6" by 26.12" inches each. We did 1/16" grout. Help, please?
Thank you for the video will this technique also work if you just using mica powder and alcohol should I do the same add very little wait for it to set up a bit and do more ?
carrin moore yes. You could definitely use this technique. Just let the Epoxy set up a bit before you add the alcohol. Be very conservative when adding the alcohol to the backsplash. Good luck and I would love to see your work. 😊
I want to epoxy over tile. I’ve seen the method to fill with concrete and then a leveler. Is that still the best method? If so what kind of primer on the concrete?
That would be the best application method for sure. Just be sure to check the moisture before you proceed with pouring the epoxy. I use the bonding primer XIM which we sell on our website. 😊 www.rk3designs.com
I wait a minimum of 4 hours. Do a scratch test with your fingernail. If it scratches easier, you may need to add a little more product or wait a little longer. 😊
I recommend always putting a flood coat (unless on a surface that doesn’t have much traffic and will be topped with the Ultimate Top Coat). You’ll pour the flood coat 24 hours after the color coat.
If the backsplash is attached, could you remove the countertop and flip it on its edge, so the backsplash is laying flat. Pour the backsplash first, let it cure for 6-8 hours then lay the countertop flat again and pour it? IE: two separate pours with both the backsplash and the top laying flat in each pour. Would this work?
Robert Latham I’m not doing flooring right now in my business. I do know the SCC has fantastic flooring epoxy and also has some great tutorial videos about floors. 😊.
That will all depend on what products you’re using. With the Stonecoat white mica powder I have on my website, you can tint a gallon of Stonecoat epoxy with about .25 oz. (1/2 bag).
The spray paint adds depth to the project. Even using opaque pigment, you can see the spray paint. It will be subtle, but it does add to the overall look. I've done it before and liked the way it came out.
I have a customer that wants the look of a dirty pour but it’s an integrated bathroom counter. How can I get that look with the sink and back splash being part of it
You really won’t be able to do that sort of technique on a vertical surface. I would recommend doing a design on those surfaces prior to pouring the epoxy. Foils are a fantastic way to do those type of surfaces.
I just ordered SCC for my bathroom countertop and will be using this awesome vid as my template. My Q is, what do you use to clean your bushes and cups?
I just turn my buckets upside down and let them dry for a few days, then the epoxy just peels right out. The brushes I keep stored in a bucket with acetone. I take them out when I’m ready to use them again. Shake them off and dry. Don’t try to clean them and leave them out. They will get hard. 😊
Michelle Charles there is a thickening powder that you can use for vertical services. It does change the color a bit of the mica and or epoxy and you don’t get the same effects. It’s a cool product for sure, just not for this particular look. You use a trowel to apply it to your vertical surface.
If I were doing this on my countertop, do I have to trowel it onto the surface or could I use my hands to cover the area? Also does it matter what I use for the "chop" brush? and also could white metallic powder be integrated in this look somehow?? I have ordered white powder, diamond dust and white metallic powders. I'll be mixing like a mad scientist.....LOL
You can most definitely use your hands but if it’s a large area it’s easier to trowel first then spread with your hand. You can use any sort of nylon synthetic brush. Just make sure you deshed it first. 😊
@@RK3Designs Ok that sounds great. And have you ever added slight, soft veins to this? I'd love to see the kitchen you did that you talked about with the stark white cabinets and this countertop. That's what I'm working with....the white cabinets.
Yes if you’re going over a slick surface You’ll need a bonding primer and then you’ll need some sort of paint as your base color. I use Behr paint and primer (which now I think they call Marquis)
I have a backsplash but it is not a part of the actual counter like your piece. It was added to the top of the countertop as a separate piece. It is laminate just like my countertop. It is flat on the top and straight down to counter so would I still use these same techniques? I know some of the epoxy will sit on the top of the backsplash since it is flat.
It there anyway you could remove the backsplash, make another one and install it? If not, you could absolutely use the same technique. I would router or sand down any 90 degree angles is you could. 😊
Michele L ....I have the same type of backsplash. I had my husband router them off, with a cove bit, as far as he could and then I sanded the corners just a little, so it looks like it was made that way. It really turned out nice. I primed and painted them and I’m waiting for my materials from Stone Coat. My husband thinks they look great right now. I don’t think he’s sure about the epoxy, but I have high hopes. Lol. We’ll see. Try it.
Michele L ....thanks. It turned out pretty good, for a first try. I didn’t put enough base white in my epoxy, so it’s not as white as I wanted. My fault and I didn’t get my vein muted down quite enough. My torch just wouldn’t stay lit, plus I’m afraid of it...lol. It looks so much better than the original, so I’m happy. If I knew how to upload a picture here, I would.
I really love watching your tutorials!!! Can I purchase the “stuff” you put in the 91% alcohol at a local store here in Ft. Walton Beach, Florida? Are the spray bottles you use like those that can be bought at Walmart? Thank you for sharing your knowledge and talent(s)!!!
Stonecoat countertop is very durable, but like natural stone, if something is left on the surface for any length of time, it could possibly stain. For extra durability, I suggest and we use in our business, the Ultimate Top Coat. It has INCREDIBLE scratch, stain and heat resistance on top of what the epoxy already offers.
Not showing the featured vertical (backsplash) surface *after* it's at least cured to touch makes this a pretty hollow presentation, I'm sorry to point out. In the absence of epilog video, I tend to assume it mostly ran down and left the surface very thinly coated - meaning this video was a strikeout for me.
Deila Hiebert that’s a great question. Basically the same way. You will pour your flood coat and address the backsplash as usual Save a little resign so that as your epoxy starts to set up, you can brush more onto. Your backsplash. Careful not to put too much because it will puddle at the base. Hope this helps a little. Feel free to reach out if you have any additional questions 😊.
If it’s not the bonding primers there’s a very good chance of adhesion failure. Depending on your substrate and the temperature. I’ve been called to fix many countertops that are poorly prepped with inferior products. A Basic all on one primer may work in some situations but why take that chance.
I will take this advice.. The two I've done are only 5 years old and in climate controlled homes so I don't have experience in less than ideal conditions. Thanks.
Sorry this wasn’t up to your standards. This was one our MY first videos. Would love to see your tutorials that you have spent time and effort putting together. 😊😊.
@@RK3Designs I don't have videos bc I am not an instructor duhh. I am a serious student...so who better to take constructive criticism from. Unless it makes you butt-hurt, then forget I said anything. Good day. P.S. but I do love your hair, I'm showing your pic to my hairdresser.
I assure you I’m not butt hurt. And if you think being RUDE is constructive then bless your heart. 😂. Oh and thanks for the hair compliment. My daughter cuts it.😊😊. It’s super easy to take care of. You’ll love it. 👌🏼👌🏼
