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@@JohnPaul-nm9jz all the basic photography classes and how to take pictures with your smartphone stuff. Illustration classes, especially the one by jazza. Some design classes, especially the ones about color harmony.
@@deejeh9494 AdMech: All systems are nominal and repairs are done... Space Marine: yeah she needs a paint job bad though. Admech: it does nothing for combat effectiveness... Space Marine: It still got nurgling guts and half the DNA of the Sector Imperialis on it bro!
So you showed a weathering effect, but in war that's not the only thing that removes paint. The dreadnought is more realistic than the lightly chipped minis. You really think these soldiers would take so little fire that their armour is damaged by the environment more than the enemy?
Yeah I wish I could do chipping. Let's start with that. For now I can base coat. I think I can base coat. It covers. I covers well. Then I shade with a wash and then I highlight. Then I watch videos like these to see the vast universe of possibilities awaiting for me in the future :))
It looks good, but unrealistic. Seems you didn't get the point. Technically it looks great but shape and position of most of the chips were just unnatural.
luke d'amato it really is the difference between the layman versus a professional. You see it as just fine ( and nothing wrong with that ) but an artist is always seeing what is wrong with what they do. This is the way we improve, by constantly seeing what is wrong we strive to do even better.
@@StrCmdr If i ever want to make the point that my model has been coated in wall plaster, either lessen it's IR signature or to counter magnetic grenades, i think i will use this chipping style. Look closely at it. It works really well if you imagine that the drednaught is covered in a crust of white plaster that has chipped in big chunks to reveal naked metal metal underneath.
It's AMAZING that I can live in a time where I can have access to masteclass like this. I remember buying my 1st minis in the 90's and I had noone to ask or talked to about the techniques. amazing.
I understand that there is a current wave of more 'realistic' painting and it looks great when I see folks of your talent level do it. Since I came to Games Workshop in the early 90s though, I paint in a more clean bright cartoonish way. The thought of dabbing that sponge onto one of my finished Blood Bowl shoulder pads makes me cringe. 😬
Holy hell yes, why did that not occur to me before, best also to maybe even put in a tinge more paint on them suggesting that the sun has not yet started to bleach the paint (or however that gradual loss of saturation is called)
This is really good advice but I had a random thought..... Why would we think that the coloring on advanced power armor, centuries ahead of current technology would weather like the paint on a 20th century automobile?
It doesn't have to be, I always took it as of how bad the state of technology has regressed to, but there are many different possible ways of showing off the degradation of future tech.
Thanks for the tips. Haven’t got round to trying out chipping yet, I like the aesthetic but I’m worried I’ll mess up models that took me many days to paint! 😅
When I was younger I built a lot of model cars I would get dents and scrapes by using heat. I would use a heat gun in certain areas and then take a wooden dowel and push areas in also did the same effect with pins to get scrapes and scratches. Dents I would do post primer pre paint. Scratches post paint. Also flatten tires. I used to run working l.e.d. head and tail lights. I got bored with making them look good so I started making junkyard cars and accident smashed cars. Two car accident scenes and cars smashed into trees. My local hobby town put several in the front window.
I can't disagree with the fact your painting skills are way better than doing the scrubbing technique. It's just that it doesn't look anything like the kind of chipping I see every day on painted metal in real life. Scrubbing comes closer, even if it's far from perfect, and I guess some would say that it's also way easier. Personally I'm still crap at either technique though, so I really shouldn't have any say on the matter. :D
Trov, I really am gratefull that you exist. Your humor in the vids, the sheer quality and knowledge of your content (enhanced by your history as a teacher), ... The list goes on. I truly wish you the best in life. Thank you, M
There's a browser extension called Sponsorblock that can do that for you. Tl;dr: everyone who uses the extension can submit a sponsor timestamp for a video and everyone else with the extension who views the video afterwards has that part of the video highlighted in the bar and autoskipped. Hate to sound like a shill, but the more people who are aware of it, the more people submitting sponsor timestamps, so it benefits me to spread the word.
Never do a chipping effect with only one color.. Subconsciously it looks weird.. The more the chipping effect is used, the more it's a fail to use only one color. Looks like paint splashes. Real life chipping gives a kind of a marble effect at a distance, plus real strong impacts and/or scratches here and there.
If you finish chipping your model by acrylic and find the lighter colour for chipping has desaturated things too much, or the contrast is a bit harsher than you intended. Try going over the scratched areas with an ink glaze the colour of your mid-tone. This re-saturates what might have been lost to the brighter tone, while also bringing both chipping highlight and mid-tone colour closer together. You can then always make another pass to exaggerate this further or come in with the chipping highlight colour again on selective high edge corners and other points you want to raise the exaggeration on.
Trov mentioned that this method didn't work so well on darker colours. All the best chipped models seem to be light. I'm going to try your method, which might help with it. I'm thinking it might help to replace the very dark central area of each chip with a metallic, which could then be glazed to adjust, or rust. I saw a GW painter do something similar on weathered black armour, with a grey chip surround.
Saw the title and said "Wait, this is not Kujo..." :P This was just great advice! And at least the sponge part should be doable quickly for your 60 cannon-fodder troops, with the more careful manual application for the few vehicles in your force :)
Hairspray technique is very OK for beginners... Use very little WARM water on ONLY ONE panel at a time. Scratch ONLY with sewing NEEDLES and TOOTHPICKS as a beginner (brushes are for advanced and experts). Scratch the edges using fine abrasives SIMPLY PRESSED on the wet and warm painted and hairspray coated edges. Done.
After applying the darker color step of chipping you can highlight the bottom edges in darker section or use point highlights at the corners of chips using a white tone or metallic to give the illusion of 3-dimensional depth to the chip. Light would catch and reflect off the bottom lip of a gouge. The chips may also follow the gradient of the shading of the model by painting lighter scratches near the top or light source of the mini and darker scratches in the shadows or near the base.
💡💡🛎️🛎️Hi! 🛎️🛎️💡💡 Please consider 👇🏻👇🏻👇🏻👇🏻 The biggest problem in the hair spray technique is the flooding. Like using too much over thinned paint. This reason big flakes come out on middle. if you want to good corner chipping with hair sprey you should use airbrush and focus really thin layer and minimum 3 or 4 layer.
I must say Im not really a friend of using a different hue color for the chipping, like on that green bike, the aditional yellow in the "no-longer-scorpion-green" im my oppinion doesnt feel good, at least thinking on realistic materials, that is something very common on a more fantasy aproach where the minis almost look like they should be havin all kinds of colors posible to make them stand out... but for a darker/grimdark I think those should be based on the base color with black or white... The technique may be usefull, but under certain circunstances, for example when a color from other source is supposed to be transfered, like blood, oil, rust, even some kind of biomaterial, for example the bike almost looks like was hit by an acid or some kind of necron weaponry by how it changes the color. I think the most important things to get considered on chipping is "the amount of damage" and "what weapon did the damage" (or circunstance)... The second tell you the behaviour on the armor that received the damage... its not the same a ricochet bullet or object, than one based on heat, like a laser, an energy weapon or a flammer... this also talks about how the player will perceive the armor paint strengh, Vs how the metal behind will perform..(making a difference on the amount of silver used on the scratch) more silver means "weaker paint job" or "durable metal behind it" this works very well for ancient or very used equipment, where it looks like he passed a war, but actually not having important damages, like a fine craftmanship expected for that kind of armor"... otherwise you simple add more black, in form of burns, that may be superficial (over the armor paint) or deep (under the paint, so it is actually a hole, but with enough violence to not left the metal easily recognizable, but instead very dirty/uneven)* you can also mix both aproaches with both lvls of damage and swap em, based on the tipe or armor and "story" for example,for using the 4 types properly would be great for a space marine armor, that never was fully cleaned (maintenance) but that had multiple superficial fixes and still is used constantly.. like a perpetual crusade, there you could be having deep damage that was covered with new paint or dust/ at the same time you have new recent damage (more silver) while you have also old supericial damages (decoloring) plus new superficial damages (burns) also, if you invest time enough to create you own criteria on how strong must be having each piece of armor you can create differences... like a bullet that hits on a leg, but which mark meets the "clothing/joints cloth" of the armor, you should make that the joint suffered more in comparison with the plate... or for example, making less visible damage on pauldrons in comparison with a similar shot on an arm or a leg (as the shoulders are supposed to be stronger because are one of the biggest pieces, and with more thickness even if those would be made of the same material) *this is very recognizable with bullet holes... if you make a perfect circle that looks almost like has been sanded (the borders) has to be an OLD shoot, if you want a recent shot, you make the hole like a tear, with displaced material and burrs, where the contrast between paintjob and naked metal makes it more moticeable.
Looking to chip a 1/80 scale (~20mm) Star Wars ship, that has a warm yellow and mid-light grey (purple tint) color scheme. The light source is coming from the front-right, which means one side is a lot darker than the other. Re-watched the video and have come to the conclusion that I have 2 options. Either just paint the chipping with a darker color that represents either the primer or the material the schip is made of (e.g. Rhinox Hide (also a nice purple undertone)) or start with a lighter tone and paint the darker tone inside the light one. One issue is the small scale and the painting chipping looking too big, the other is the different colors and the different value's I am dealing with. Any advice?
I would be happy to just have my smurfs look as clean as that one. Gotta work on my edge highlighting but earthquake hands. I'm thinking maybe some form of light dry brush might be better than spending literal days trying to edge highlight. This chipping technique could help hide some of the dry brush overbrush maybe,
Taking a car as an example for chipping is a bad idea. Most cars now are made of plastics and sythetic alloys rather than metals, they don't chip the same way and paint wears off differently. If you want to see what chipping would look like on stuff like dreadnoughts or tanks, take a look at old lathes/mills and other machinery. The chipping on your "yikes" model looks exactly like the lathe at my old job, even with the same colors.
Is chipping medium more noob friendly than sponge approach for vehicles and larger models? I didn't mind your massively chipped white dude tbh -- battle damage seems like it could easily be intense rather than subtle 😀
I totally appreciate not focussing on non-acrylic products. The ONLY non-acrylic stuff I was willing to get so far was a brown enamel wash for generic use, streaking grime for non-organic stuff like armor and slimy grime for organic, if I ever want to go a full grimdark route, but aside from that I'm going to stick to the tons of acrylics I have. This video will come in handy when I paint my first armiger knight (which I bought second hand and sadly only later found out didn't have the bottom torso plate that connects to the legs, so now I gotta build something first)
That ultramarine on the motorbike is very badass. Almost makes me want to buy and paint it. But I resist the urge of being sucked in to the Warhammer Universe. For now.
I love realistic damage. I don’t do any corrosion as I feel that the materials used in armor from 30,000 years in the future wouldn’t rust. I also like to add some fresh looking panels without any damage as those would be new parts that were replaced between battles
I just attempted chipping medium on some Genestealer Cults buggies. It seemed to take an age and I wasn't happy with the results, as it turned out a lot like the dreadnought in your video. I shall revert back to sponge and brush in future. Great video as always.
I personally use a verry big dry brush and lightly touch the edges. That way i can remake the same look and build uit highlights too on other parts if i accidentally brush too far
Another hugely useful video that I am sure I will make good use of in the future. One thing I have found is to collect a range of different foams, with different size 'bubbles', they are not all the same! Using two or three different sponges helps increase the randomness.
First time seeing a video from you. Great video, but the part that earned my like and subscribe was the unexpected rubbing of paints on face. That was hysterical, lol! Awesome (and helpful) video!!!
People always say blister sponges, but I don't see any in any blister packages I buy XD Luckily I bought some converison bits from conversionworld and they put little sponge parts in the baggy for transport.
excellent! I had just decided that doing chipping and weathering is going to be how I paint all my mini's. I did my imperial knight with chipping and decided to do my necrons from indomius like this as well.
The problem with almost any of these painting tutorials by great painters is that they take way too much time. I wanna quickly finish my army, not paint it for two years. You also cannot really see any of these incredible good-looking details when they are on the table. Sadly, there are almost no quick and dirty tutorials that are also good. e.g. I saw a chipping medium tutorial and the guy left the edges alone and only chipped the middle parts... it drove me nuts.
It does not take years. You need to get some practise, yeah but then you will get faster. But if you want a 10 minute result you will get something that also looks like it took 10 minutes to paint. Why would it look better? And you say it yourself...if you never bother to learn a bit about what you are doing it will always look bad. You can always learn the basic ideas and adapt them to your own speed. That's what I am trying to tell you in my videos.
