I was having a dreadful time with rolling a very dark blue feature wall last night. Watched this video and today I re-painted wall following it exactly. I’ve never had a wall look so even when wet let alone dry. You gave proper in-depth guidance on when and how to load your roller, so many others never do. Thank you so much from bonnie Scotland.
Heck yeah same situation - DARK blue and lap marks. I'm getting ready to try this technique myself. Was loading right and keeping wet edge, etc. but not doing the final "layoff" step where all in the same direction. Hoping this is the fix!
Came back to say it worked! I painted exactly as described here (in my case was using an 18 roller) and it worked - no more lap marks! Thank you! For ref: The paint was Sherwin Williams Emerald "After the storm" (DARK blue) flat. It was a complete bear with the lap marks despite being flat. But the technique here was the cure!
I'm painting a wall to dark grey colour in friend's house and the wall is not flat and kinda textured, this is a nightmare. Doesn't matter how focused I am, I can still see the lines. Dont know what else I can do...
Absolutely awesome basic to the point. I have a painted wall after watching your video, This is the first time in my life by the way I’m 66 years old that I have painted a wall without screwing it up. Thank you absolutely awesome.
I recently did a 2 story stairwell wall in an almost black egshel with a big window at the bottom, so even the slightest imperfection would show. Man, did I have to move fast even with an 18" roller to keep a wet edge! Glad to say it turned out great.
Adding a paint extender also keeps the open time of the paint longer and reduces lap lines and brush marks. The faster the paint dries the more lap marks. Which is why oil based alkyd paints usually ends up having the best finish.....great video btw and great explanation!
@Painting_Inspiration would this change the paints original composition negatively? I only ask because I've spent ages picking my paint for it's durability etc and I'm so desperate to get it right this time 😂😭
No it doesn't change the durability. I use Benjamin Moore paint extender and it is 100% acrylic. So it doesn't change the robustness of high quality paints. And it probably strengthens low quality paints because they are not usually 100% acrylic. But follow the directions on the label. I personally don't use more than 1 cup per gallon. Flows smooth like butter and keeps the open time long enough where it dries slowly and looks amazing.
Hey Chris Thank you so much for this video. I followed your painting tips to the letter and I am amazed how good the finish on my walls was after the 2nd coat! As you say - work fast and ensure that wet edge. One thing I would say to others is buy quality rollers and brushes and look after them by cleaning and storing them them properly. It makes a huge difference. Keep up the good work! 👍
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Thank you! I've used white paint/primer to cover a previously hideous grey-brown. Will soon use some green to cover it up too, but trying to make a good base with the primer first. Will try this now on my fourth attempt 😅 So basically: Load properly. Make a roller length. Load with paint, start with 50% of the roller on the wall with wet paint and the other 50% on the unpainted space. After three "lapses", go over it (layout, I think you said?) from top to bottom. Repeat.
Thank you for the video. I rewrote the points as notes. I was about to switch to a brush, but now I know the technique. Excellent video! Today, I applied your technique and I had to re "layout", but I made sure the roller was wet. I thought I had a too wet column, but it faded into the surrounding color! I was smiling! That was my 5th coat!!! Now, thanks to you, I have the confidence to continue to bigger walls!!!!!
Lap marks a rarely an issue. Either the room is super warm and causing the paint to dry too fast or you're not applying enough paint, which also causes it to dry fast, and if you're using a higher sheen paint the problem will be more apparent than a low sheen.
Great advice but difficult in application as a one man project especially with high walls. My cut in edges would be dry by the time I got done and moved on to the roller.
My boss is always getting on me about me leaving lines on the walls even tho they usually always go away when the paint drys. You're demonstration was way better than my boss's. Thanks chris!
It's been about ten years since I painted a wall with latex, and I'm finding it very difficult to keep a wet edge with today's newest paints. They all dry too damn fast. If you have a textured wall, imperfections may not matter. However, many of us DIY'ers enjoy perfection, and we enjoy glass-smooth walls, even with flat/matte paint. Perfection for a DIY'er usually means we don't like to rush. Professionals tend to be faster by default, because they paint more often, and it's a money-making issue. With the new quick-dry paint formulas, DIY'ers are forced to paint faster, otherwise, they're going to need an extender to get the best results. And many of the new paint formulas are forbidding the use of additives, so this all becomes one expensive experiment. After a lifetime of painting projects that I've always enjoyed doing, I can't believe the struggles I'm now encountering. And of course I'm older, so I'm slower by default. LOL. Thank you for your helpful videos.
@@prophecynewschannel7398 Sorry, but two coats is NOT the answer. A second coat over a bad first coat solves no problems. I wrote extensively about my recent issue with Dynasty paint on that video. The lap marks were insane, and I found them impossible to fix. If you dared go over them, you got a stippled edge. HORRIFYING. I was furious, and I got a refund on that awful paint.
@@j340_official Well, of course I knew that, but in NYC, it's March. It's still winter. We have excellent ventilation, but the space is cooler than average. Did not matter. The Dynasty paint edge near the ceiling was already dry by the time I could get back up there with the roller. No matter how hard I tried, I could not keep a wet edge. In 40+ years of painting, I've never worked so hard on getting a small wall perfect. I'm still working on it. LOL.
@@KJ_nyc yeah. I am no professional at painting but was using sherwin Williams emerald and lowering the temps kept the paint wet for long enough for me to lay it out and back roll and smooth out the paint before moving on to the next section of the wall. The final job is no lap marks a nice clean even finish. When the temps were higher I was having hella trouble. I also sanded in between coats. Good luck!
Thanks for the video you're the one who made me realize I really need to keep my roller saturated, much better results since! But I see you overlap by 50% the freshly loaded roller (1:31), don't you end up with too much paint? When reloading I usually go to a new column and then backroll with 50% overlaps. Anyway maybe I'll just try your technique and see how it goes
Love the content! I’ve learned a lot from you and it’s much appreciated. Is “laying out” or “laying off” as important with flat paint? Instead of just backrolling?
Another approach is to add 4 oz of Floetrol per gallon of latex paint. It eliminates brush marks and slows drying of the paint. If I have the occasional lap mark I find I can mitigate them by using a heat gun on low, then rolling over them with a damp roller.
I did as you suggest but anyway I see connections- lines. My paint was satin might be because it is shiny and walls are level 5. I tried to sand after airless spraying walls with primer and mud, after that since under lamp some places where uneven, to make it smooth. Then, I tried with roller to make not be seen some imperfections on the walls and that it happened. I see lines. Now I did send one more time and planing to spray since roller leaves lines on straight walls. Please, give me some tips how I should paint ( preferably without roller since it takes longer time and never smooth)straight walls. I want walls to be very very smooth no texture or imperfections at all.
Can you do a video on using interior paints with a sheen? Wet edge or not, there will be a time when a touch-up is needed. Ive painted thousands of walls and have never figured out how to keep a glossy paint looking nice while rolling, when brushing is required (which is 99% of the time)
That is a good question. I'm a professional painter and I still always backroll to eliminate them. Would be a big time saver if I could solve that problem.
Me personally, I've found the biggest reason for lap marks on ceiling when spraying is not going heavy enough usually via inconsistencies in speed of overlap, or pulling off too much paint if backrolling. Also if you spray in the direction of natural light coming in from windows seems to help, that way if there's a ridge from overlapping/fingers as the tip wears out the light won't cast a shadow over the ridge since it will be parallel to the natural light. Having a flatter paint obviously Also helps a lot but you won't always have that luxury
Do you fine sandpaper the wall before painting the way you demonstrated. I previously painted the wall twice as lines were showing and I still have lines on my painted wall. What’s the best way to prepare the wall beforehand?
@@fairamir1 , even with dark flat paint? I just painted a room with SW Duration Flat Iron Ore (very dark grey) and I have visible shade difference where I cut in and used a small roller at the ceiling and baseboard. I will be trying to do it in one go with a paint extender.
Duration flat in darker colors is a horrific paint to use. I can’t believe sherwin Williams is still selling that crap. Your Paint is never going to be even you’re always gonna have those overlap marks. You can try spraying for better results, but the outcome is going to be almost the same.
@@IMABEAST191 , thanks a ton for commenting this. I thought my technique was subpar and I was going crazy. I did end up repainting the walls, except thist ime I was cutting ceiling and baseboard as I went. I also rolled as close as possible to the edges with the big roller. It came out good and looks acceptable. I usually use Benjamin Moore Regal Select, Aura, or Scuff-X, so this wasn't a nice introduction to SW brand for me...
People do not be discouraged! I’m a journeyman painter. But I paint in a shipyard so it’s a bit different. I never painted at home or inside houses before. I wish I could put before and after pics but I was painting an office and it looked horribly streaky. I’ve been painting for years and didn’t think I would be that bad. 30 minutes later after it dried, the paint job looked 100% perfect. The paint might appear streaky while your painting. That’s because the wet color and dry color are 2 different colors. This type of paint dries fast so it will appear streaky as your still painting. But don’t panic until it dries. I promise anybody can paint.
How do you know when you have too much paint on your roller? Seems to me like rolling the width of a roller only is going to be way too much paint on the wall yet it's not. Could a saturated 3/8 microfiber roller do at least one and half? I guess it comes to experience and the type of paint as well?
When you are rolling your first coat how many roller lengths do you typically do as opposed to when you are rolling your finish coat? Or is it the same every time like you demonstrated in this video? One roller length 3 times then lay it out rinse and repeat?
Another reason for leaving lines is using the roller incorrectly. The roller has a leading edge and a feather edge. The leading edge is where the pressure is. The side that is connected to the roller. The feather edge is the open side. Lead with the leading edge. . Overlap with the feather edge.
You are the only one I have seen that rolls a line overlaying the other? Why is that? I have tried this and it works but I worry I’m putting too much paint on
I am going to lose my mind haha Painting a wall to dark grey colour and the wall is kinda textured and not flat so I always see the lines. What can I do ? 😢
Thanks man. I painted for the first time in my life on my ceiling. I used a flat white paint. I am seeing some lap marks after 2 coats. After watching this I think I really didn’t load my roller cover enough and I should have tried more to do a full line at a time, rather than trying to do 1.5-2 lines with 1 “load” of paint. I’ll keep this in mind for next time, hope I don’t look at the ceiling too much 😂
Thanks! When you say layout I assume that's the same as backrolling? Also if spraying the wall then doing a layout, would you layout just the primer coats on new plaster or each coat? I assume texture would come from primer coats so my topcoat can just be sprayed on and not backrolled/layed out. But I would still be able to touch up with a roller to match texture in the future if ever needed?
Can you do this video on say a 20ft interior wall. On like a wild staircase? That's when I seem to get haloing. Its as if I need 4 guys to paint one wall I certain situations. Can you show videos in super difficult spots?
If light hits at the right angle of a wall? How come I see paint stippling? It’s like I see the stippling in rows in every other roller width section?? I swear I use enough paint and keep a wet edge? Or…. I’m not using enough paint? But it feels like I am? It’s a satin sheen Sherwin Williams Emerald. Good quality paint I’m pretty sure. I get everything real wet like two rows of the roller width. then go back and roll top to bottom to keep the stippling the same throughout the whole wall. Can this stippling effect I’m dealing with be because there might be waves on the wall causing shadows that cause a messy stipple look?? I know this is a lot sorry… any advice would be great! Thanks!
F"*ked if I can get my paint to make straight lines like that. And get it to go top to bottom in one dip too. Got a 6ft wide al... Ive made a complete mess of it
I was in the painting business for 50 years. This video may help some people but 50% overlapping wet paint into wet paint is not a professional method. A good painter would have the wall finished by the time this guy painted a fourth of it. In reading the comments I think most people have the problem of using too thin of a nap roller which holds very little paint. A half inch nap is an absolute minimum that I would ever use.
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A PRO that puts masking tape on a ceiling😬, show us a detailed close up of that wall once your 'saturated' roller has finished.....im sure it will be 'perfect' or a 'pro' finish like all the rest of your videos do.....one coat like normal...PRO? 😁
