Without seeing the inners, I would suggest just replacing the slide. Sure, the leadpipe and the outers can be replaced, but if your inner tubes also need to be replaced or a good deal of work done to them, just replace it. It comes down to could versus should. It might cost more to replace the slide (if you are going with a new one), but you will conceivably get more life out of it.
My reluctance to do this is that the slide is where the instrument's serial number is stamped. There doesn't appear to be anything on the bell section.
I have to ask though, is there any reason why you want a 10in bell? If you are interested in trying out for a symphony orchestra, one of the most common mistakes for bass trombonists is using too big equipment. So I just thought I would ask if there is a particular reason behind it :) I've kinda been on the look out for a bass trombone with thayers but with a detachable bell so I can change out between a 9.5 and 10in
That looks very professionally finished. I'm curious whether there is more complexity involved with maintenance or lubrication for Thayer valves compared to the alternatives. Do you find them to be harder to keep in optimal condition or isn't there much difference on average?
Yes, Thayer valves do take more maintenance than some other valve types. There are different types of thayer-inspired valves, some of which are full cone ones, some of which have some of the mass removed (and are thus lighter). I don't have experience with all of them, so can't really comment. But all of the main braces on the valve section are all removable so you can disassemble the valves and maintain them - it's quite a faff. Unlike most other valve combinations, you can't actually access the moving parts of a thayer valve without disassembly.
You've also changed from tight closed wrap tubing to very open wrap for the triggers. Therefore it is not possible to say how much of the change is due to the valves and how much the wrap style. My dad plays trombone and he played a King 3B for a couple of decades starting in about 1973, it had a rotary valve trigger with semi open wrap and he loved it, says it never gave him any trouble playing with or without trigger.
I would get a Bullet Brace to help your thumb. On the King you can wrap your thumb around a brace. The Bach does not have that space. I had a Bach 50B3 and loved it but needed the brace. Good job on yours. I hope you can maybe find a single valve Bach 50 and use the slide for both.
Rotary valves. Is there a Slide trombone with different valves than Rotary for the Attachment? I saw that only once on the Second trombonist's Instrument of the Bavaria Radio Symphony Orchestra
Interesting as I had my King Duo Gravis completely restored at BAC in Kansas City and left everything original but did restore the valves without the strings and made it independent. The full restoration was 2K but it plays amazing except I wish I would have had Thayer’s installed instead. I know what your referring too as it does take much more air to punch out the low C’s in 4th with both valves pressed down instead of open sound at 7.5 position.
Hi, I saw the part where you removed the lead pipe. My university actually has a similar model of trombone, with a lead pipe that also comes out and is around the same length as yours. My understanding was that it was actually designed to be removed so that you could use a tuba mouthpiece on it, and I would volunteer that yours could have the same feature. (It's also completely possible that the horn I have experience with had to be modified to do so)
Hey Trent, how would the openness of a piston valve compare to rotary or Thayer? Always seemed strange it hasn’t been used for trombone f attachments (ergonomic problems aside).
Hey Trent, have you ever played a Shires trombone? Either a Q series or custom model? I've been a fan of your videos for quite some time and since I started working at Shires almost a year ago, I've been curious what your thoughts are.
Hey, great video! could you do one about the Bach Stradivarius 50BO? I've taken some interest in it as I own one myself and I only have about 2 years of experience and if you have the instrument on hand I would like to see a review on one if it wouldn't trouble you too much.
Not a question about the instrument but I would like your advise (or anyone else who can help) on something. I am an 8th grade "bass" trombone on just a regular f-attachment trombone. I find it pretty difficult to clearly articulate or even get notes out past low D. Do you have any suggestions as to how I can improve those notes in the lower register?
I have the same issue on my instrument, my guess is that the instrument simply isn't made to play so low which compromises the sound. Tenor trombones are designed to play in the tenor range, f-attachment or not, and bass trombones are designed to play lower and sound good there, but would sound worse in a higher register.
Long tones. Sadly there is no shortcut. I used to practice my bass trombone sound playing in front of a large mirror. The surface reflected the sound, and I could view and correct my breathing and posture as I played.
You just need to play 1000 low D's and it will be easier to find low c. Many people say low c is not possible with a single valve but it has been done for years. I think it is Phil Thiel that has advanced embrocher studies for low register on you tube. Just keep at it.
Isn’t resistance a good thing? I always thought you wanted at least some amount of resistance otherwise all brass instruments would just be a long straight tube? I mean I know they exist and I understand why you don’t want too much resistance in an instrument but like still
Duh, Trent! Now that you have the upper section the you want, of course you should finish it out on the lower section. That red rust only spreads and it will destroy the upper.
I'm not so sure about these Thayer and Haagman valves, if they really make that much of a difference... Anyway, I don't play bass trombone a lot, I got my cheap Chinese King 7B clone that, apart from the poor build quality - I needed to get some things soldered back on after a gig - does the job actually quite well. And for my jazz gigs, I play a small bore trombone without trigger anyway. Maybe I'm not that good of a trombonist to feel the difference.
They do make a difference, but you need to be at a level where you can tell the difference between your own limitations and the instruments. Frankly, there are some professional players who chose rotors (and there are many different variations on rotary valves, some play better than others). I've enjoyed hagmanns and thayers. My nirvana would probably be hagmanns, but being in New Zealand (and not being regularly required to play bass trombone) I can't really play a huge number.
@@TrentHamilton Hagmann valves are pretty common here in Switzerland, but that's where they're from ;-). When I needed to buy a new "classical" trombone a couple of years ago I tried all different kinds, from cheap Yamahas with rotary valves, over Bach's Stradivarius line and different Shires and Edwards combinations. I liked the last ones very well, but decided to save a lot of money and bought a Conn 54H, which is more of a "step up" instrument, with dual bore and a normal rotor valve. I'm indeed not the player that needs an ultra-expensive instrument to get just a little bit more out of it, I don't play that well. Then I'm still wondering: why don't other instruments like the French horn use such kind of valves, as the natural horn also doesn't have sharp bends and turns?!?
@@HammondDirkprobably complexity, therefore cost, as the "German" rotary valve is already complex enough, and apparently comes with some sonic downsides over pistons found in true "French" horns, but resolves the intonation problems. Plus, I suspect most folks playing the horn are doing so as a primary instrument at the pro level, unlike my foray into the horn one semester in high school. It's often about trade-offs where instrument design is concerned.
I am a professional bass trombonist and I play with Courtois - AC551BH-R. It is equipped as you probably know with Hagmann valves. If someone have questions , I will be happy to help with some answers 🙂 P.S. Sorry about my basic english skills 🤷♂️
Hey Trent i have an instrument you might be interested in reviewing its a 1907ish alto horn by Whaley royce and co of Toronto Ontario Canada let me know if your interested in it.
Why would you dump that kind of money in a horn with that many problems? Even if you buy a used slide for that horn it’s going to set you back about a grand at least!
Since this is already a project horn and a repair technician involved, you might check out M/K Drawing & Bending in the the U.S. They offer replacement outer slide and bend tubes, etc.
