I tell you what, I am looking forward to Jarrod's videos on his trip to Their Issard factory. I like this format with the hone after the save and commentary. Very informative with your process. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks Martin. More than once, I considered using these small razors only for downward strokes under the nose. Of course even a very big shaver can accomplish much ATG in that area.
Thanks Greg. 😀 I still would like to have an Heirloom Strop from Tony Miller down in that State we love. They are just plain cool. I might try to sell flavored ice to eskimos. I’d probably would go for Cherry and Orange, and avoid Lemon for a specific reason. Then again, I do remember Jethro Bodine of Beverly Hillbillies fame making “Snow Ice Cream” in one episode, so I’m not sure of my likelyhood of seeking my fortune in that enterprise. 😎
Tony is a great guy. I contacted him about making a custom travel strop for me, and during that conversation asked about getting a piece of material for a bench strop. He's very careful with his choice of leather and the quality of his work is exceptional. I only have two hanging strops that I use for shaving; a Kanoyama and an Heirloom.
@@greggallant5058 I had gotten some horse hide from Tony in the past. At one point I think he had a source just a bit north in the Amish Country. He said he uses this stuff and gave me the info. Can’t beat the pricing. Works great. Leather cutting is a bit difficult. www.thetanneryrow.com/all-leather/horween-chromexcel-strips-leather
I do find shaving the same way that you do with the long strokes rather than short ones I get way way less irritation…. And I learned this from watching you 👍👍 Thanks Bill
Thank you. When I started open blade shaving, I found most errors were in “set down”. That more than anything prompted me to follow that style. The first time I saw a vid of someone “blade buffing” with a straight, I thought it to be very risky. I do it occasionally now and think it easier than ‘short choppy strokes.
I find myself surprised at how seldom the finer stones actually touch the edge even with flat honing. I think most stones begin to develop a curve along the length even with flat lapping plates which means that the edge may not be in contact all the way through.
While I think I am hitting at the closest to the edge on my last stone (Suehiro 20k) with more pressure than one would think should ever be used on a finishing stone, I am just not sure that I hit edge until I am stropping flat. The grinders handbook calls for final use of a flat stone, I just have not gotten that to work well enough for me…yet. I have a coticule bout inbound that I want to try with. It will get a long dimension shape if it is a no go flat. I use different curves and abrasive setups to see where in the bevel I hit. For example, I will back bevel with a slurry sometimes to get a sandblasted look in contrast to the polished look from 20k or Ark. I can pretty easily see that I hit at around mid-bevel to the edge. I probably need MORE scope to see for sure. Hmm 🤔 … New scope, more stones, more razors? 🤣
@@billm.2677 convex sharpening is nearly identical to how safety razors are made. They’re ran through a series of grinding wheels set up in a double wheel configuration. Then I believe they ran across the flat side of the polishing wheel at an angle for the final micro-bevel.
Thanks for tuning in. It does take a little time to learn. Many find it worth it. Many find razor maintenance too much. Here is the video I did not too long ago for those who may want to consider giving it a shot without the worrying about the complexities on edge maintenance. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--3pt2q9QLYE.htmlsi=OtZ_-wrLymB78-d7
