Straight Piping My Saab 9-5 Wagon for the Sake of Science 

A crack somewhere in the intake would make it run lean and hot. Maybe a smoke test, putting the intake under a little pressure.

@@fieldlab4 that's the thing, tech 2 wasn't showing me anything at all car was running fine, checked the full air intake and there it was

Interesting, thanks for the input

Thanks for the tip!!

Thanks for the advice Mike!!

Haha 😂

My brother has got a 02 95 and it shifts just as fast so I think you might have some problems.

@@edvinwestman8375 I own a 93 aero, and unfortunately the auto transmissions are sluggish. The delay between 1-2 is slow and the downshifts do not make sense. The car has a drunk mind of its own.

Yeah, might be worth a shot

Thanks for the tip! I have proper plugs but have ordered new NGK’s just to be safe :)

@@AutoAutopsy Of course, it's easy to measure the resistance of plugs to check them that way, but it's always possible something odd is happening at high voltage.

I don’t have the expertise, knowledge, tools, or time to really dive into any of that 😅

@@AutoAutopsy Put a cheap volt meter on resistance and measure from the top to the tip. Should be all the same. I think the spec is like 5,000 ohms and they say it tends to increase with age.

Fuel pressure regulator ?

@@darenwilkieson6676 that too

Would it trip a code?

Check FPR and it was fine :/ thanks tho

Yeah it was in Cali before here. No rust!

That’s not my issue, unfortunately.

@@AutoAutopsy Sorry to hear. Keep at it and please let us all know what it is.

Stefan, thank you. We do not have many shops that specialize in the vehicles. Are you a mechanic in Sweden?

@@marvi1515 no, but working with cars and tuning them since I was a boy, so for about 35 years. Dealing with streetrace almost every week, So I would call myself a homebaked mechanic with knowledge 🥰

@@smaberg i’ve seen your comments on other saab videos lol, any chance you know much about OG93’s?

@@erezgalfand4935 the og T5 I know about 70% about. The ones with T7 is about 80% but the 9-5 is my main.

@@smaberg so about 70% more than i know lol, i have some questions about how to go about upgrading my ‘99. if you think you could help i’d be happy to pay for your time! let me know

Thanks :(

It is! SMH 🤦🏻‍♂️

Nothing like a bad O2 sensor to clog a cat.

Bad 02 sensor could cause lean mixtures...can you not run live time readings with tech 2 to see your readings on both 02 sensors?

@@darenwilkieson6676 But if the mixture is that lean, seems like the plugs are going to be cooked. Blue. He says the plugs were okay.

@@darenwilkieson6676 you can but maybe will look good if it's fooled

@@fieldlab4 true he did...

Yeah, we tried. All is fine

Interesting. Thanks

Turbo cooling is only for the bearing. No effect on the housing temp.

Already checked and cleaned!

😂

The o2 sensors were swapped when we changed out the exhaust! Meant to mention that in the video

Wastegate was replaced when the turbo was. Maybe it needs adjusted tho

@@AutoAutopsy ok just a thought

You’re envious of my problems?? Let’s trade! 😂

@@AutoAutopsy envious of the boost, not the colorful turbo 😁

Already checked, thanks tho

FPR was on that list of things we checked. Thank you for the suggestion and comment tho! :)

😂

Oof

I have had two Honda CRV´s, and both have been unreilable. My last CRV was a 2004 petrol (150HP) decent wintercar (I ive in Norway) but it has had problems every year. Few days ago I sold it and got myself a Saab 9-5 automatic, petrol turbo, and I´m really happy!

I think he did on the list it said something along piping and when he put a new turbo on he would have checked. A lot of people are saying possible crack in the intake

^ yeah those were all cleaned

Yes. The O2 sensor was swapped when the exhaust was. Sorry, meant to mention that in the video!!

Hmmm, with backfire, I ment pinging, pre-detonation.....

The backfiring isn’t an issue lol. That was because we had it straight piped

@@AutoAutopsy yeah i also liked the backfire, but i stripped the threads to the nr1 sparkplug.. major problem to fix . :(

Yep!

Yes. I had a good working spare OEM DIC I suppose I could try. We’re going to try to check the timing too

I have not. Thanks

Lol

They do. I have an 08 9-3 with no mufflers not resonators and my buddy just did the same to his 01viggen and his is so much louder and pops like crazy whenever he lets off the throttle

@@Testiclops69 If I did that with my Vig, I would last 5 minutes before Rosco pulled me over. That would be an epic 5 min. 🤣

@@MassiveTrackHunter lol dude is crazy. Never expected that when he did it

The turbo is connected to the exhaust so the air passes through a turbine and spins it to make boost, but since it’s not a direct path to the tail pipe it’ll accumulate heat and if there isn’t sufficient cooling or if there’s a blockage in the exhaust it’ll cause the glowing turbo

Yeah it’s being a pain in my ass! Lol

Ugh. Good luck! Try posting on the 9-5 Facebook group for help

👍🏼

He noticed it prior when not driving it hard too. He has been driving it hard for videos to make sure it is visible on camera.

They definitely get hotter than with no turbo- reason for the heat shield.

It's difficult to get the entire housing to heat up like that, so it's not normal. I've got an '03 9-3 with like.. 160k miles on it that's still on the original turbo, and I've driven it in all sorts of conditions without seeing something like this (including one summer about 5 years ago where it was driven almost 10 hours straight from Greece back to Romania, with half the trip at highway speeds and a lot of it uphill). And on the 9-3s, the turbo is between the engine and the firewall, so it's even more prone to heating up, yet I saw none of this. Just based on how physics works, only two things could cause it to do that. We know it's mounted on the engine exhaust circuit, so normally it takes hot exhaust gases when it's running. But they're never so hot that they can make a turbo-housing glow red. So either the unit is not being cooled at all (blocked oil feed or return lines, no air-flow, shot bearings), or something in the engine ahead of the turbo is causing the exhaust gases to heat up beyond the limit of what the oil lines and air-flow are able to cool. He said he checked the oil feed lines, so we can rule that out, and this is a new turbo, so bearing issues are out of the question, which means it could be something in the engine. Maybe some of the exhaust valve seals are worn and there is more volume coming in, with possibly unspent fuel. During the test-drive, there was a back-fire noise even on the normal tune. Back-fire usually occurs when fuel is escaping to the exhaust manifold somehow. In newer sports-cars this is engineered on purpose with separate injectors or through a tune, but in this case, it sounds like a mechanical cause for it. If there is unspent fuel escaping to the turbo, it could be causing this effect, since it's actually the turbo that's completing the burn cycle, instead of it ending in the cylinder/s. It's a crap job, but maybe it's worth it taking the head off the block and checking the exhaust valves....

@@vtr0104 honestly the next step he should take is smoke testing from the intake next before ripping into the block. If there is a leak in the intake and the air is thinned, that can cause the turbo to overheat like this. I mentioned it, and is think another poster said similar. Far cheaper and easier before tearing into the block chasing something that could be as easy as a broken part of the air intake/delivery system.

@@Staatus_Quo Hum. Other Saab owners have said a very dim glow is normal and the temps are in "normal" range- around 1000°f, but if there is an issue, I don't see how valve seals could cause an issue other than oil leaks (smoky exhaust). Damaged valve seats would show up in a compression/leak down test. The coolant and oil lines for the bearings shouldn't effect the housing temp much. So you are back to the same possibilities- a lean mixture caused by a vacuum leak, a bad DIC, bad temp or oxygen sensor somewhere, bad fuel pressure or regulator, maybe the ECU, maybe a bad injector/injectors, etc. IDK. If you see any glow on the exhaust manifold itself, and it's all the legs, not just one, at least you know it's not something only effecting one or two cylinders. A scan with a Tech II (with Saab card) is likely to either show something wrong or show something normal that you know isn't (meaning a sensor, the DIC or the ECU is bad). That would be my first recommendation.

That should be unrelated if there are noises, I would think

I’m not sure how that’s possible to check lol

@@AutoAutopsy undo the line at the turbo that feeds it oil, and run it into a water bottle. Crank the engine to see if oil comes out. I will take a few cranks, but you should get a steady stream of oil

😐

No lol. My state doesn’t require a front plate

Plenty of options out there. Krona, GS, Maptun, etc

No it’s stock

👍🏼👍🏼

Not that I can see :/

Pain

It was replaced when the turbo was, but we will!

Pain

:(

Sold the car a year ago so no need! 😅

We tried the new tune tho. I wouldn’t think that would affect jt

@@AutoAutopsy the tune code resides in a dedicated chip of the ECU. The other parts of the ECU can be defective. It's enough for a single stupid resistor to be slightly off to give you a lean mixture for example. ECU are just computers like a laptop. And over time the PCB can and do develope hairline cracks. A swap shouldn't take more than a half hour and at least you could rule that out as the cause. Give it a shot.

😁