Learn a super easy way to remove old varnish and prep your boats wooden surfaces the seasons new coats. Brought to you by Jamestown Distributors bit.ly/1ewFz6g More at www.tipsfromashipwright.com and / tipsfromashipwright
It's nice to watch someone who knows WHY he's doing what he's doing, not just what to do and how to do it. Really like your videos and your shop made tools.
Agreed. When I train new employees, it seems like i am over thorough, but it's because when you're teaching someone new it helps to teach them how to do it but also explain why it's done in that way. Show them a wrong way or two and identify the reasons why it should be done the correct way.
As a metal boat builder, im amazed at your skills, and left feeling very amateurish! Ive spent about 3hrs watching your vids! Great to see an O.G. at work, and educating people! Thanks sir
Thank you for the video. I already kind of knew what to do but the way you used the planer blades as scrapers was awesome and a new trick for me. I like how you talked about raising the grain at the end also. Again, thanks for sharing.
I have always sharpened my putty knives with a square end, but not for many years. I started stripping a the washboards today using your technique. It was a pleasure to see something work just the way it was shown. One down three more to go. One quick question, You mentioned Spar Varnish. I see Spar Urethane listed are they equally suitable for use in outside wood on a boat?
Great video. I am refinishing my brightwork on my 1966 Owens 31' Flagship Empress. Thanks for the helpful information. Just curious, why do you do the final water wipe to raise the grain before going to 120, then the new varnish/cetol? I don't want to miss this step if it's important. I thought you might want to do that to test and see if the wood is prepped enough so that it will look uniform once you apply the varnish? Also, I will be using Cetol on my teak and I will be watering down the first layer over the prepped wood by 25% with thinner. Do you recommend that? Or anything else? I want to ensure I've got a great base to protect my wood on her.
Very helpful video. Have a sailboat interior I am working on and thanks to you, I wont damage anything by sanding stain and clear off. Will heat strip, and hand sand, then tung oil instead of shiny top coat. Any suggestions for molding profile stripping? scotchbrite pads?
Hi, Great video. I’m looking at stripping my teal toe rails. They have What is seemingly years of Cetol. I’m not sure if I should sand or use a heat gun. If I use the heat gun will it have any effect on the gelcoat? Or should I use a chemical stripper. I’m leaning towards sanding.
Great video! Could you possibly show just a slight bit of the boat itself? Just for interest. I mean...an old 8mR..is always something you wanna have a look at, don't you? :)
like a boss good work hear. i paint my house years ago and i heat gun it to take the pain off move sense then and the pain steel on it and it pass 15 years the paint call for
Using a plane iron as a scraper... What a great idea for those irons that have gotten too short for the plane. Anyone who has never run out of plane iron probably doesn't use them enough to have this issue, trust me, they will sharpen past a usable length, eventually. Check out used planes and yard sales and flea markets (car boot sales for our friends across the pond). They will likely have far shorter irons than a brand new one.
Hi! I work on a 67 feet commuter called Dolphin ( you can see it on internet if you clik Dolphin commuter). There is a lot of varnish touch up to do cause writh now we dont want to bring all the boat to the wood. So those littles spots are some times almost white or sometimes dark because of the humidity. Have you a protocole to deal those touch up? Thanks for your vidéos!
So competent!! I start on sanding a 30ft wooden mast (from a Black Soo) which seems to me to have been oiled and is in first class condition. I have in mind using a traditional quality marine spar varnish. Any special tips for previously oiled spars?
I've got a small plywood sail boat that i want to strip back to bare ply, as it's been painted with house paint by the previous owner. What I'm worried about is if the heat gun would damage the glue inside the plywood? Can anyone give me an idea about that?
As usual, you leave out an important factor, i.e., do I need to worry about using a heat gun next to fiberglass (I have the one shown in the video and it gets pretty hot), and if so (which I assume is the case), how do I protect the fiberglass.
Peter Kirby You can't sand with the grain if you use an electric sander. Well, unless you're using a belt sander, but that would be a little aggressive for work on a classic boat like this.
+Peter Kirby You definitely can! I can't imagine doing that entire boat by hand. A good random orbital sander- but the thing is it leaves swirl marks soyou have to follow each grit by a finishing hand sand to get the swirls out.
+G.Work.Specials harbor freight 10 bucks or go to the pawn shop- many times they will have a good used heat gun- they are good to have around the boat for plumbing as well. Btw- you can burn the wood- keep the gun moving.
Get a carbide blade scraper and stop wasting time resharpening a steel one let alone a putty knife I can't believe the amount of stuff you're leaving behind it just isn't necessary get a carbide blade pull scraper
I have 2 carbide scrapers and one gouges in the center and one gouges the edges of the scraper. They were brand new, and I'm not sure why I'm having this problem. Any tips?
@@carrie4189 You pull with a carbide - don't push make sure something sticky isn't on one end of the blade - but thats not really ever a problem - but you can slide a steel edged tool along the length - gently. to clean stuff off (Never sharpen carbide - it stays sharp a long long time. Replacement blades direct from china - Ali express - dirt cheap bought on pack of 5 and I'm still on the first new set ( 3 scrappers - coworkers) after several years the carbide should only be about 2 " long I would think a longer type blade would bind. If the heat gun is hot. and the blade is hot - by sitting against the wood ( blade - not gun) then a gentile slide will liberate paint or varnish. Make sure it (varnish just bubbles then gentile pull although some times it just doesn't want to bubble. Paint will take a longer application of heat may 4 or 5 seconds more and may or may not bubble. just sample it for release. Carful on corners and where ever the heat goes, Also try a slight angle across grain say 30 degrees. - sometimes that makes a super clean pull. -- practice I say
Additionally you can see all the unscraped varnish he has left behind and starts and stops - Old school - I'm telling you get a carbide scrapper- every other bladed tool you own is now carbide - why not this one. OH AND YES A HEAT GUN CAN SCORCH THE WOOD - I have no idea what he is talking about - but thats what they made sand paper for. And after you have done once or twice you'll learn not to. AND when your pulling a scrapper(much more control) your pulling with the right hand - holding the gun with the left , so your shooting the heat against the back side of the blade as it were -- cause your pulling it towards you. And contrary to what you might imagine - the gun is hottest close to you - Evan through you have angled the gun (Away from you and towards your blade) it still hotter on the close to you side until you get the hang of it. start in the middle of the field - not at one end or the other
Its not just me I'm 67 I've done this for 20 years, MY high school boat buddy has done it for 40 years - taught probably 10 others - no one does steel -
