STRONGER 3D Prints with GLUE? (and CARBON FIBERS)

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I tested if you can enhance the strength of your 3D prints by covering the surface with CA glue (super glue) or epoxy. I wanted to find out if the overall strength improves and if the layers bond together better.
Since I had the materials, I also tried out how much you can improve the strength of your parts if you glue continuous carbon fibers (rovings) to the surface. Let's find out more!
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23 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 687

@CNCKitchen 4 года назад

Don't forget to share this video on Facebook, Reddit, Twitter and other social media!

@allonyllc1879 4 года назад

Do carbon fiber videos please.

@Passco666 4 года назад

n Hello Stefan.. Can you doing similar test? I would like to know what happend if you use infill let say 15% and into the space you inject epoxy?!

@jamesbrown99991 4 года назад

If you're doing CF tests, could you also please try reinforcing with woven cotton/polyester fabric/cloth/textile? It's much cheaper than CF, and literally everyone has some available

@RomanoPRODUCTION 4 года назад

Happy 2020 ❤

@lucasvanbeers9906 4 года назад

I have experience with using carbonfiber+epoxy and fiberglass+epoxy on 3D prints

@mrpoopybutthole6314 4 года назад

Please do a complete video on carbon reinforcement!

@Flav_M 4 года назад

Also Glass fiber reinforced should do nicely and they come in nice sheets you can cut down to size, very affordable and found at auto parts store as a kit, next to the bondo and such.

@Kineth1 4 года назад

I feel that a glass reinforcement comparison should include woven and "random" orientation fiber mats.

@philbarrett3739 4 года назад

How about carbon fibre rod embedded in the print during a pause? I use cf rod or strips in all my rc planes.

@ska042 4 года назад

I'd be super interested in that as well! Especially comparing the advantages and drawbacks of printing something and reinforcing it vs printing a mold and making your part fully out of CF + resin inside of your mold.

@ska042 4 года назад

Actually I see three more or less obvious ways to utilise carbon fiber in combination with 3d printing (or any other fiber mats, like glass fiber, kevlar etc): 1. Print normal part, reinforce a few strategic areas with fibers and resin 2. Print a deliberately very weak part (not much infill, only one outline) to keep it light and consider it a frame of sorts for fully enclosing it with one or multiple layers of fibers. At the end it's basically a full CF composite part but some shapes will be easy to make this way which would be hard to make in a more traditional molding process 3. Print a mold, make a CF composite part, exactly like people "normally" make CF parts just with a 3d printed mold I'd imagine each of these have their place depending on what exactly you're trying to achieve

@andrewbiskup 4 года назад

Single handedly the best 3D Printing RU-vid channel. Why you're not at a million subs is mind blowing like the glue not strengthening anything. As a mechanical engineer, your contributions to the STEM community are incredible.

@CNCKitchen 4 года назад

Thank you!

@fufun4me 4 года назад

I never looked at his subs and just assumed he was massive bc of the use of his testing and how no brainer it is to watch his videos if you want to learn. Luck plays too much of a roll. Sad

@andrewbiskup 4 года назад

You must not be an "actual engineer" because we do use these for more than prototyping. We use them final parts often and are always trying to better engineer our designs in all industries so they can function properly whilst being intended to be solely 3D printed. GE metal 3D prints dozens of FINAL PRODUCTION jet engine parts and nozzles, not just prototypes and they're not DIYers. Being an engineer includes proving your design. People for years claimed putting glue into your part made it stronger, but never showed anything to prove such claims like Stefan did with simple tensile tests. Stefan made the effort to test a hypothesis the community itself was unsure of, and gave us very simple results so I'm not sure what other "raw data" you're looking for. He gave a load to failure for each instance. That's about as raw as it gets.

@andrewbiskup 4 года назад

Did you even watch the video? He posted data graphs several times with the exact raw data you speak of. No need to act like to a child when someone points out you making obviously false and factless statements. If you don't like a video, move on. Simple.

@andrewbiskup 4 года назад

So all his work and effort is useless because you can't read a graph and didn't get a table. Go find something else to complain about. Everyone else found this helpful bro

@yucannthahvitt251 4 года назад

When you further investigate your carbon fiber reinforcement, you should use the proper type of resin for CF work instead of hobbyking epoxy.

@CNCKitchen 4 года назад

Definitely. The working time of 15 min alone isn't optimal.

@akinz3079 4 года назад

I wonder if shoe goo/amazing goop etc. would help. Flex seal could also be decent

@newdeathscope 4 года назад

@@CNCKitchen west systems is my epoxy of choice, it works really well.

@anonony9081 4 года назад

@@CNCKitchen also try some sort of carbon fibre wrap so the entire print is reinforced

@sneaky_tiki 4 года назад

Outside of working time, I don't see it mattering much (if at all) what kind of epoxy you use for this sort of test. You're not trying to minimize the weight of the epoxy, you don't care about wicking properties. You basically don't care about anything, because the plastic will always break, and the carbon fiber never will (in his test jig). It all comes down to whether the carbon fiber is positioned correctly for the loading scenario. Oh, the amount of heat generated by the epoxy reaction might matter, since it can deform the plastic, but I don't know if that's something you can easily account for when looking at epoxies.

@SkansgardCNC 4 года назад

I have used fiberglass weave and ca-glue to greatly increase strength of thin PLA parts on a mask. Works very well! :)

@Bronze-td8jq 2 года назад

Can you please give more detail on how you accomplish this? Am very interested. Thanks!

@SkansgardCNC 2 года назад

@@Bronze-td8jq Pretty simple; I wet the part with ca-glue and push on fine fiberglass weave and push it on with a small brush so the CA can soak the fibreglass before it hardens. If I need more layers, I use activator between layers. This is probably not as strong as epoxy-infused glass fiber, but a lot better than plain 3d-print. Also might be a good idea to sand between layers if you want it to look good. I have used it inside masks etc so looks have not been important :)

@jcugnoni 4 года назад

3d printing + composite is really the way to go for high strength parts. I would love to see more of this.

@3DPrintingNerd 4 года назад

Wow, didn't expect those results. This is fantastic - thank you Stefan! Also, was thinking, I wonder how something like 3DGloop would stack up against CA and 2-part epoxy?

@rileyfenley522 4 года назад

3D Printing Nerd I was just about to suggest PLA 3D Gloop.

@dipt_tpid 4 года назад

I love the effort you put in these videos. Well done

@gadjetsvideo 4 года назад

Ever thought of printing the hooks hollow and filling the inside with resin, maybe through a hole left in the top. I've often wondered if it would be possible to add some resin filler during the printing process with a very low amount of infill.

@g6qwerty 4 года назад

LOL I just thought of the same thing now.

@frankbauerful 4 года назад

I use woven glass fibers with epoxy. Unlike carbon fibers they are transparent and almost invisible. Because the fibers are woven they do not have a weaker orientation.

@AntiVaganza 4 года назад

Sorry, just saying "woven" doesn't give us enough info. Perhaps you are mixing up chopped strand fiber mat with woven which does have less specific fiber orientation but have other issues. Woven for sure will have weaker orientation...

@Flav_M 4 года назад

And are more affordable at comparable results (for us mere mortals is good enough), and very easily acquired locally at auto parts stores. That's defn bang for the buck results. Makes PLA not such a crappy spotter at GYM afterall...

@truantray 4 года назад

But CF is much, much stronger than glass. A cheaper alternative is aramid fiber, the generic name for Kevlar.

@jakegarrett8109 4 года назад

okleydokley technically there are some fiberglass nearing or equal too average carbon fiber (higher stiffness and ultimate load strength), I’m sure it’s probably more expensive than CF and CF just has a cool aesthetics factor! I’m not sure of any industry besides aerospace that uses the stronger ranges of fiberglass. Kevlar like you said is an excellent material and well suited for some other tasks as it happens to make fantastic flexible hinges for composite planes (when making a UAV jet plane, we used a semi-monocoque design so the outside was carbon fiber and then we used a little strip of Kevlar as the hinges for flaps). Fiberglass is so much cheaper though so I understand why people want to use it, definitely better than nothing! It was like $3 for a decent piece of extremely light (like 100 grams per square meter, normal checker pattern stitch) fiberglass when I bought some recently, but CF you have to pay out the nose for that stuff (the closest I have on hand is some almost ghost weight, it’s like 20 grams per square meter and it’s like a random squiggle mesh that’s so thin and hollow you can see through it, basically min weight possible that’s useful, so you can make incredibly light weight slow flyer planes, but the cost is insane). I’d say it’s about 20-50x more for CF cloth than conventional fiberglass cloth, but sometimes the project is mostly about man hours and mold times and it may end up being only like 20% extra cost in the end, so like for this video it was so small of a patch like what’s the difference between 1 vs 2 pennies? Nothing basically, might as well use the best one. Big projects you really gotta analyze if it’s needed!

@weareallbeingwatched4602 4 года назад

@@jakegarrett8109 glass fiber can be proper tough as nails.

@belenhedderich3330 4 года назад

Thank you Stephan to keep on doing research on this subject Merry Christmas!

@FilmFactry 4 года назад

I've printed a PLA spline for a gearbox hollow. Then poured epoxy and some metal nuts as filler. The epoxy becomes super hard, and there is only 2 plastic shells.

@Flav_M 4 года назад

cut up some glass fibers and mix in with the resin

@martinpirringer8055 4 года назад

How I strengthen is to use the part as a skeleton and wrap it in fiberglass

@martinpirringer8055 4 года назад

@@RazgrizDuTTA Currently brush and squeegy (spelling?) Still experimenting to find the best way. Parts are 12to 16inches in some direction. so pretty big. The final product will be 130-150 lb 30x30x48 in thereabout robot.

@martinpirringer8055 4 года назад

@@RazgrizDuTTA That is what the experiments are for. Been looking for something but epoxy to use. EPOXY on PLA is not good as its exothermic and can cause distortion. Its a pain too as you got to mix it. On ABS you can use ABS slurry make it as thick as possible where you can still work it through the glass and soften the part up with acetone then acetone weld the ABS slurry soaked glass to it. now Gorilla glue adheres well to HIPS and ABS but makes the glass brittle as its extremely hard and seems to crush some of the fibers. On foam core Polycrylic works well also on cardboard and wood. On cardboard and wood Elmers glue all works well too. But 2 part poly ethylene or epoxy is best but you got to work quick. I will still run some tests with certain jb-weld products that have been specially formulated for HIPS and PETG. So atm its still work in progress to find the best solution possible

@pepe6666 4 года назад

you got me thinking about merely inserting strong stuff into the print. and i think m3 bolts are strong. we often think of using bolts to join parts together, but merely having inserts for a long bolt might be worthwhile to make strong segments where parts take a lot of punishment.

@martinpirringer8055 4 года назад

@@pepe6666 We insert all kind of things sometimes even aluminum tubing. You can see an early prototype move here. www.chiefdelphi.com/uploads/default/original/3X/3/6/36e8fbdd064daf1db337ffb20366218e0d2115d2.mp4 I think at that point it was about 9kg of filament reinforced at some places with 1/2 in 16 gauge aluminum square tube

@mauriziocastrocastro4538 3 года назад

@@martinpirringer8055 Does adding the aluminum made the prototype significantly stronger? If yes, do you have any documents or links i can read? I´ve been looking for ideas to make my prototypes stronger so if you have any information, let me know.

@shenqiangshou 4 года назад

Would love to see more tests with the carbon fibre, both the continuous strand and the normally available chopped CF infused PLA. Thanks!

@juststeve5542 4 года назад

Very interesting Stefan, especially the epoxy actually reducing strength.

@glennleader8880 4 года назад

It might be worthwhile putting the parts into a pressure chamber and a slower curing time for the epoxy.

@tronskifpv 4 года назад

thank you for doing all the technical videos. These are the types of videos I really appreciate. I want to make the strongest prints with the most appropriate materials I can.

@nightfighter78 4 года назад

Excellent wideo again! I was sooo waiting for extra hook with longer carbon fiber reinforcements! That seems to have good potential.

@ammerudgrenda 3 года назад

Yes, I was waiting for that too.

@bigbearnelson 4 года назад

I would love to see you test different methods of gluing pla parts together. A practical application being a full size Marvel mjolnir replica that's printed in several parts. CA glue, epoxy, JB Weld, PVC cement, stuff like that.

@Saanq 4 года назад

You can also try a glue which has ethyl acetate as solvent, since it also dissolves PLA and should make an inter-linking structure.

@MaplePanda04 3 года назад

Painting the part with clear nail polish would work. Acetone-free nail polish remover also contains the stuff if I remember correctly.

@kyleniedermeier6651 4 года назад

Yet another great video! Always love your content!

@kurtlindner 4 года назад

10:35 had me rolling, that delivery. :D :D Please do some more with the Carbon Fiber reinforcement.

@Dustmadeout 4 года назад

Could you also try making a channel inside of your part and fill it throught the hole with epoxy resin?

@ammerudgrenda 3 года назад

That would probably make it heavier without increasing the strength.

@aronderksen7055 3 года назад

Or you could run some carbon fiber thru to hole with resin.

@ddkessner 4 года назад

Things to try: 1. Same hooks, but physically thinner. Printed at 100% infill. Ideally they should have about the same amount of filament as the hooks in this video, but packed into a thinner hook. 2. Take the hooks from #1 and submerge them in a slow and runny epoxy. Put that into a vacuum chamber so you can pull the air out of the crevices in the hook and replace the air with epoxy. Remove from the chamber and hang the hooks up to cure, while letting any excess epoxy drip off. 3. Have some holes going through the hook. Fill the holes with epoxy and carbon fiber threads. 4. Same as #3, but use normal fiberglass fiber/threads. Thanks and good luck!

@MacroAggressor 4 года назад

I really like your first idea, testing different cross section geometry using the same amount of filament.

@jonwebb9261 4 года назад

Impressive and informative video as always man :) Always love your informative, engineering based projects as appose to 'look, I printed some drawer handles'

@UNVIRUSLETALE 4 года назад

Top quality videos, you definitely deserve millions of subs

@foxxo-dev Год назад

I love how you are so intrested in these topics. You deserve to have more subscibers!

@adriFernandez 4 года назад

It would be awesome to know more about the effect of the carbon fiber reinforcement. Very nice video. You are one of the main information sources for 3D printing. Keep pushing.

@goatgoatgoat1234 4 года назад

I've been using XTC3D from Smooth-on to reinforce parts for a few years. That combined with proper print orientation seems to have helped increase load. I'd be interested in how that performs vs this epoxy. Great vid! Always enjoy seeing the results of your experiments.

@yourcurtainsareugly 4 года назад

I've always wondered if you could make prints with holes for post-print liquid infill.

@elijahsimmons2900 4 года назад

Would LOVE to see more composite reinforced 3d printing. That's what I'm working on now for my robotics team.

@Andreas-gh6is 4 года назад

For some applications it might be a good idea to design 3d printed shapes that are optimized to be reinforced with carbon fiber material. Maybe spiral grooves. Maybe a tunnel. Also, the horizontal orientation fibers still confer some strength in the vertical direction, because they have a thickness and aren't perfectly horizontal everywhere.

@patrickfle9172 4 года назад

Ich benutze gelegentlich cfk verstärkte Teile aus dem 3d Drucker oder gedruckte Formen für die Verarbeitung von Carbon/Epoxy Für Funktionsteile mußt Du für beide Verfahren ein Bisschen umdenken. Roving verstärkte Teile profitieren von Nuten, in die Du die Fasern einlegen oder einwickeln kannst. Hierbei kannst Du auch Haken und Pins andrucken, die beim Wickeln helfen. Zu enge Umlenkradien lassen die Fasern brechen (!) besonders bei HM-Fasern. Ich habe auch schon Faserträger gedruckt, bei denen ich den Kern anschließend entfernt habe. Beim Formenbau must Du, anders als beim Verstärken, darauf achten, daß das gewünschte Teil _nicht_ fest mit dem Druck verklebt. Hier ist dann ggf. ein Trennmittel erforderlich, dessen Lösemittel die gedruckte Form nicht anlöst. Deinen Haken könntest Du praktisch im CAD von einem Formblock subtrahieren und diesen dann geeignet splitten. Diese Negativform kannst Du dann mit harzgetränkten Fasern füllen, die Formhälften schließen und alles härten lassen. Nach Entformen und Besäumen hast Du dann einen massiven Haken aus CFK. Kannst mir auch gern die Datei für den haken schicken und Ich mach Dir die Form.

@mn1816 4 года назад

You should try with a solvent glue, like Weld-on #3 (Methylene Chloride based). It works on PLA and ABS just as well. Due to its really low viscosity, it does get in between layers and gaps dissolving and welding the plastic.

@AlvaroQF 4 года назад

This video is really really educational, congratulations! You clearly show the importance of printing direction and how much do carbon fibers improve part toughness and the importance of the fibers positioning. I would have loved if you had tested 1, 2 and 3 layers in the inside side of the parts printed in XY direction and Z direction, this would have been superb!! Maybe an idea for a future video.

@lucas3820 2 года назад

Very happy that this channel has English subtitles, I can "hear".

@JanTec3D 4 года назад

very good video, Gut gemacht Stefan!

@jamesanderson2381 4 года назад

Another great video, thanks Stefan! As you correctly noted the epoxy has a lower failure strain than the filament you used which has a more plastic failure mechanism, I wonder if regular PLA would be a better match to the failure strain of this epoxy? Alternatively there might be a toughened epoxy with a higher failure strain that could do a better job also.

@ajmtranz 4 года назад

I would be curious on how 100% infill holds up. I print functional automotive motorsports parts for race teams. I print all of these with CF-PETG at 100% infill.

@TheAndonen Год назад

Stefan, watching your videos makes me feel I was switched to the Discovery channel (or similar) and watching high production informative and interesting scientific episode. Appreciate the ton of work you did to make it happen.

@grahamdwells 3 года назад

Good job with the squarespace promotion quick and to the point. Progress bar was a very nice touch too.

@Flav_M 4 года назад

The timing is so perfect for me, just picked up an ender 3 on 11:11 sale ... Told myself I wasn't allowed one until I learned how to get started with Fusion360(since 99% of what I'll prob print is functional stuff and tests of them lol). Having never used ANY design or altering software(windows paint doesn't count for dots and lines, although...nevermind) I still have a huge mountain ahead, but I got as far as designing with threads and most of the basics, I'd love to get into assembly and fitting parts together, seeing stress points...basically the good stuff that you DO :D And that brings me to what I started to say.... AWESOME content, exactly what I needed when I needed it. I was just bitching last night in chat during Joel's giveaway that PLA is such a disappointment when you need functional stuff because of layer separation and then you give us this. I'm assuming resin filled is next? If not, It Should be ... that's my next trial for my functional junk, PETG filled with warmed up resin to flow nicely into infill. I've got some two ton stuff laying around somewhere from a project a while back, that should do nicely lol Jjust ordered a roll of petg, since now after a month of testing I've gotten things really close to dialed(just did a complete thorough check over the WHOLE printer and Glad I did, just about everything needed an additional turn with the wrench and the bed rollers were actually never aligned 100% and started wearing funny, but I detected it early and greased it all. HUGE improvement since my first print where I scratched the aluminum bed...I guess I'll forever have my very first imPRINT :( so i'm ready to try PETG and if that goes well maybe some tougher stuff . Once again, awesome stuff, will be watching it all. Can't wait to see what else I get to learn. Happy Holidays and a Super New YEAR!!

@wardprocter2371 4 года назад

Would like to see further investigation of the carbon fibre as well as a comparison to glass fibre reinforcement. Thanks for another interesting video, Stefan. Happy holidays!

@ajhartmanaero 4 года назад

I own a company that manufactures carbon fiber car parts and would be extra interested in any carbon fiber tests you do. I just picked up my first 3D printer and have some ideas of how I want to marry the two techniques.

@IscuAndrei 4 года назад

I've made a few parts with carbon fiber reinforcement for my airsoft replicas (variations of ergonomic pistol grips). Since I printed them standing I was worried about layer separation. The method I used was coating the part with resin, wrap the twill on the pistol grip then use peel-ply and a vacuum bag. The first grip had some torture tests involved hammering on all 3 axes, loading the part with 10kg and heating it to ~90 degrees centigrade, etc. It survived so well that I sanded it down and applied a thin coat of resin and after a polish it was mounted on my replica. I presume the vacuum helps the resin flow in the small spaces between the layers while the carbon shell gives it good impact and shape retaining performance. However, without vacuum, I cannot see how the resin could get in between the layers considering its viscosity and surface tension.

@armoth6958 2 года назад

Hi Stefan, great video!! I’m wondering what would happen if the hooks are printed with a pre-determined hole in which you can inject epoxy or resin to “fill” the stress point(s).. maybe a stupid idea but I share it anyway

@michaelgaraphoto 4 года назад

Hi Stefan, are you using the hobby king resin for part smoothing?

@eruma 4 года назад

Hi Stefan, your tests are amazing and I love to watch all of them, it's just too curious what happens and moreover why things happen, that's engineering at its best, driven by pure passion! Well the cf-reinforcement test I liked most, not only because I'm and aviation-geek but also due to the not too little potential which carbon (or other) fibres have. I'd suggest it would be easier to fix the fibres if there was a groove in you test-objects (the "niners") for lamination. And there you could play with the height of the fibre-layers and even further with fibre orientation in terms of torsion stiffness or shearforce. Another interesting point would be, to change the carbon-fibres for glass, aramide, polyacrylic, maybe some organic ones (cotton, hemp, ...) and see what happens? I missed another thing, to strengthen the test-objects by glue or resin, it might be helpful not only to apply it on the upper surface but to ensure, that some cavities allow the fluid to creep between the layers and there to increase the layer-adhesion.

@AlexBenyuk 4 года назад

a great project as always mate, please keep it up mate

@NeilRichins 4 года назад

Good research data, thanks. Do you have any more on how layer ironing affects strength?

@ademirzanetti Год назад

Nice experience, congratulations for your initiative.

@iteerrex8166 4 года назад

Hey Stefan, I have had this idea for a while. For prints that are thick enough, one could print a cavity in side the object and insert a piece of metal. It could be an AL rod or some spring steel and such. It would be hidden and add tons of strength. I haven't tried it but it should work good. Thanks for the video.

@Flav_M 4 года назад

or fill with epoxy the entire cavity ;)

@Anyone700 4 года назад

You would not fill with epoxy because it is an exothermic reaction and would melt the print out of spec. Also it is too brittle. What you would do is model a thread into the 3D print use matching size threaded rod. Run the rod through to get the hole to spec then put a glob of epoxy on the hole and a line up the rod. Thread it all the way in, then trim flush with a cut-off wheel.

@iteerrex8166 4 года назад

@@Anyone700 Yes, that's the idea, of course the details would depend on the situation and application. Good point about the heat. And brittle not bridle.

@Flav_M 4 года назад

@@Anyone700 That is very very size and shape specific. Using slow curing(or low heat generating) epoxy it'll be just fine.

@davidstonier-gibson5852 4 года назад

I bought a load of cheap 3, 4, 5mm drill bits once off eBay, and have used them for exactly that.

@IanDouglas 4 года назад

Awesome video. Tom did some post processing of FDM prints using resin, could you try that as well?

@1kreature 4 года назад

More CF testing! Awesome results!

@yonutz333 4 года назад

Yes, i would be interested to see how carbon fiber reinforced parts behave and how strong they are

@dominiksamol9068 4 года назад

I love this series and think it can be a very good basis for actual construction with 3D parts involved. For the fibers. You already did simulations where virtual fibers or reinforcement should be added. If you leave a actual a canal or whole where you can pull the wetened fibers through (almost like sewing or like the steel enforcements in concrete, you will get an improvement and still have the clean look. Of course for perfect results you need to make sure the channel is full and also that there are no air bubbles. For a project I used already carbon, resin, and 3D printing for a wind turbine with 2m diameter. Iff applied correctly you can have the quick results and "perfect form" of printing with a strong and usable result

@BladeWalker91 4 года назад

I once repaired a scissors with locktite super glue and a mesh of thin shielding wiring, that I took from some coaxial cable lying around. I embedded wiring into a plastic using a soldering iron. Scissors are still working to this day for about year and a half. Maybe you can use similar method to add more strength to your 3D prints?

@dougingraham5807 4 года назад

Your results were as I expected. The breakage at the end of the CF reinforcement was perfect. I started using CA in 1973 with my RC models. I stopped using it when I became sensitized to it in the early 1990's. A single whiff of it will give me flu like symptoms for several days. I miss using such a useful material. Thanks for all the testing.

@fabioarrua 7 месяцев назад

P100 respirator with organic vapor cartridge can get you back in the game

@kleingarrett55 4 года назад

Would love to see a video on strength benefits of infill overlap!

@oklestek1994 4 года назад

Love your videos, i would love to see the carbon reinforced hooks, and I have a question for the layer adhesion part have you tried dichlorethan which is able to disolve PLA ? :) keep up the good work

@cobravenomX1 4 года назад

im trying to make a bow but it needs to be strong. i made it in 10 parts , i was looking at you video and was thinking to run fiber from one end to the other. or could i dip each part in medium strength glue then vacuum seal it. will that work or not let me know thx.

@CNCKitchen 4 года назад

Using some fibers or even a rod in the part might be the best option.

@scottwillis5434 4 года назад

Great video, thanks for doing all the measurements! The optimal placement for the carbon fiber would be along the path of maximum tension. Attached to the relatively weak plastic by feathering it out to spread the load. As a first guess, reaching up to the inside top of the hanging opening along the closed side, down through the narrow neck (close to the inside surface), following the inside curve of the hook to the bottom, and probably terminating somewhere on the bottom front of the open end. Not sure how much (or whether) the fiber on the outside adds to the strength. If weight is a concern, the base design of the hook has areas that could be greatly improved (narrow neck at high load area, wide & wasteful at e.g. the end of the hook), though I will guess this to be deliberate to provide a known failure point.

@Falconguygaming 4 года назад

I've been using super glue even before 3d printing as a crude additive manufacturing technique. Even if it doesn't add much strength it makes for an easy smoother before paint

@Winmx813 3 года назад

where can i get the print for the hooks

@TheLinuxBust 4 года назад

Thank you for the video! I really appreciate the animated graphs next to the test videos. By the way, at 5:56, was the text supposed to say "Thin CA Glue" instead of "Refer[e]nce"?

@garagemonkeysan 4 года назад

Super interesting and useful information. Mahalo for sharing! : )

@GaryGraham66 4 года назад

Great idea! I was thinking of using the CR10s and pausing printing and inserting fibreglass into pre-printed gaps then continuing printing. or using two or three extruder 3D printer to use different filaments to improve strength any ideas on this?

@diyeiyei6627 4 года назад

Hi... thank you and congratulations for you channel... my question is if you put (handling inside and outside) epoxy resin in a carbon fiber 3D print piece (for example a pipe) with high proportion fiber and porosity... how its change the properties? ... it should very interesting to compare this piece with the same but without epoxy.

@BartJBols 4 года назад

What if you print the print halfway, then apply fibers in a crossed pattern with superglue, then apply the other half with glue? Ive reinforced thin plywood that way once for aircraft wing field repair.

@Daniel-nm8vi 4 года назад

Stefan YES, Please YES! Yes to More tests of increased strength, stiffness and impact resistance created by surface or buried (pausing the print) epoxied carbon/glass fiber roving (& fabric) reinforcements. I think this is a quick, simple & cheap method to GREATLY improve the real life functionality of 3D printed objects.

@frollard 4 года назад

to add another data point - I had some prints that I rushed (making a prop rifle for a cosplay)...had very very bad layer adhesion because of the print speed I used. I had to reglue them together with CA and epoxy after since they wanted to split constantly. You are trying to improve a well calibrated print and seeing minor results. I don't want to recommend it as a crutch, but to a bad print, the glues are absolutely a life saver.

@JuliaC-sp5qk 4 года назад

I've been wondering for a while whether printing a part with gyroid infill (so liquid can penetrate the entire part) and no bottom layers, then filling it with another material such as epoxy resin or latex rubber would increase the strength of the part?

@spinnetti 4 года назад

I was thinking to paint PLA parts with SLA resin both for strength improvement and also to fill the surface to get a better sanded surface.. haven't tried it yet but plan to do on a R/C airplane spinner maybe tomorrow.

@DanteYewToob 3 года назад

A cool technique I recently saw on reddit, was a guy who prints large figures and stuff with only two walls and zero infill and then fills them with epoxy by slush casting the inside with a few layers of resin. He drills holes in the bottom, injects thin resin and moves the part around to coat the inside and let's it settle in the smallest or weakest part so they become solid. I'm very curious how well this works and if it's worth it! Faster and stronger prints, potentially?! I need to know.

@tobiasstaermose 3 года назад

Have you tried to model parts that have channels/fill lines for adding eg CF/epoxy and still keep the external dimensions? :) ( I know this is an older video)

@lukaszxrc5050 2 года назад

Good material! What about temperature resistance of the parts treated with CA? I covered some Prusa parts that work close to the nozzle with super glue and it looks like it works.

@vicgarbutt3310 Год назад

what about if you add ca glue thru the top into the spacings between the fill while printing

@mudaserawan1457 3 года назад

Awesome tests, very informative. I was thinking if you could pause the print while in xy orientation, lift z axis, fill the part with some epoxy and resume print after setting of the resin/glue.

@jorgem3625 4 года назад

Hello Stefan, could you please tell us where to buy the carbon fiber foving, that will help a lot, thank you.

@mocmaniac1571 4 года назад

Nice video, to complete the test, could you compare a thicker printed part with equal outside dimensions as the one covered with CA glue ? And further more one with continuous carbon fiber all around the hook ?

@alperenarslan6036 4 года назад

Does print speed effects the layer adhesion?

@skyak4493 4 года назад

This vid did a fine job of showing there is little improvement from a glue coating. Stress risers are critical to real world strength. I would like to see more with composites but it is a very complicated topic -maybe not for general audience. For example: -PLA might not be compatible with common composites because it shrinks after printing and is uniquely amorphous. Or maybe the one flaw smooths over the problem the other creates. A good test would be to print, then glass the exterior, then "anneal". If the composite does not survive this basic test the components are incompatible. -ABS may make a more compatible core -the adhesion to the core is the big challenge and difference in stiffness creates a stress riser at the junction. Carbon fiber is least likely to work. Glass is much closer and even polyester or nylon fabric might work better. The question on every test should be where did it fail? When the sandwich stops failing at the junction you can start optimizing -shell for strength and stiffness, core for shear strength.

@blacksupra001 2 года назад

Thank You, i dint 3d print but will buy one soon, i was thinkinh why not use epoxy or a layer of carbon fiber ? 🤷‍♂️

@archeebookingagent1909 4 года назад

i did similar test but not in 3d printed world.. the epoxy resin will heat up while curing and therefore will affect the PLA bond but epoxy itself is not a structural component.. it is sort of keeping the fibers/ filament together .. CF will will perform however it twists (fibers have flex) depends on the type of epoxy you use.. If you could get a hand on vacuum / release / pump system (foam and core with PVA and make the fibers woven and fully impregnated it would probably damaged your jig.. same might happen if you use a layer of woven or unwoven fiberglass or kevlar or hybrid.. .. Carbon fibers themselves work as unit .. if there is a hairy crack it all goes... and also repair of CF is very difficult and usually 1 cm crack requires 10 cm repair... good job Stefan.. thank you for all these.. I like to watch this as I have done same things just using weights and springs 25 years ago ... mostly with wood during boat building

@alunmo 3 года назад

have you tried filling the space in the infill with resin? maybe even squirt it in and then pour it back out.

@justinwebster667 4 года назад

Please further investigate the fiber reinforcement, I would love to know more about it!

@elvinhaak 4 года назад

I wonder: what would the strenght do when you make a small opening in the part and fill it up with a syringe with epoxy? I guess it will 'glue' the infill together ?

@wackie9472 4 года назад

Its really useful video. thanks

@mitupadhyay1451 4 года назад

I think you should try with the change of temperature effects on the prints with epoxy. Because even if it doesn't improve strength it must affect the temperature behaviour and also hardness. About CF it is very interesting the failure mode where it fails at the end of the fibers. But there are also law density mesh which will add a little material but the strength can be much better in both lateral and transverse direction. Thanks for the video, loved it.

@MikaelJSandersson 4 года назад

Yes, please give us more carbon fiber improved stuff! :)

@vonscherfarms925 2 года назад

i know this is an old video but ive reinfocred my pla prints using countertop epoxy since it has a high ipact and heat resistance. i cant speak towards layer adhesion but on my glock frames it makes them last significantly longer than a standard PLA glock frame

@scobob 4 года назад

I have been using 4 top and bottom layers with the orientation of 0, 45, -45, 90 for structural prints in SImplify3D. It seems to be stronger but I would like to see some numbers to validate my hypothesis. Have you tried this already? If not, is it something you would consider testing?

@Manawyrm 4 года назад

I would love to see some more test results with the carbon fiber reinforcements...

@tim1398 4 года назад

Thin CA is great for hardening and strengthening balsa, I wonder if it would work well on PLA-Wood filament?

@Daniel_Pfarr 4 года назад

Wich Software do you use for your diagrams?

@CNCKitchen 4 года назад

Excel FTW!

@Piccyman1 2 года назад

How about making a small hole into the support material and fill with resin

@kingsidorak 4 года назад

I know it'd be annoying to do by hand, but would it be feasible to glue every or every few layers by pausing the print and applying light coats?

@WH1T3_No1SE 4 года назад

how about printing a hook, leaving hole on top, and filling it with glue or epoxy afterwards

@e_g4239 4 года назад

Like a faster way to print 100 % infill maybe it's better

@samuela6271 4 года назад

Solid epoxy is very brittle and heavy.

@BennXdesign 4 года назад

@@samuela6271 and kind of expensive, but it may worth a try for certain parts...

@BloodSprite-tan 4 года назад

if you're going through the effort of doing that you're better off making silicone mold and making an fiber glass epoxy composite hook in the first place. epoxy is very strong, but it's not mention for structural stability, and as such you need some sort of reinforcement.

@RevanPlloyd 4 года назад

I was thinking something along those line as well - Epoxy - Epoxy with fibers (the short fibers carbon/glass) - cement - plaster (All off witch have the draw backs do to the way there cure. Exothermic , Oxygen, water evaporation) Like cast In place, but you keep the mold on. Also it wold make for a good exploration of infill and infill modification, seeing as what ever material would have to flow all the way through the part or to specific locations. I have had some luck use epoxy to increase compression strength on a print.

@gilliangoud 4 года назад

Probably has been said already, but what about applying SLA resin...? would this be similar or provide more strength? could it even adhere between the layers properly?