I'm glad you were able to keep your wits in check.. I lost an uncle to an unfortunate tractor incident. He was out breaking ground in a field that had been pasture for some 10 yrs at least. This field happened to be beside a lake. Typical of most farmers, he tried getting as close as possible to the shore. He ended up stuck. It was a bad day all around, quite warm, AC wasn't working in the tractor. He walked home to get another tractor. Came back, hooked it all up, put his 2 oldest boys in the stuck tractor (quite young, but you know how it is on the farm, I'm gonna say 8 & 6 yrs old - don't exactly recall). He always taught me to wrap the chain under & over, so that if it broke, it would hit the ground. Unfortunately, on this day, he went over/under. He gave it a tug as the boys let off the clutch, chain broke, flew towards my uncle, he felt it coming, brought his arm up as a reaction. Shattered his arm & skull. Pulling tractor is now going around in circles as he slumped over the steering. The boys shut down the stuck tractor, chased the pulling tractor & shut it down, then ran home to have their mom call 911... .. Anyways.. things happen super fast.. gotta always think things thru, as sometimes safety gets forgotten in a moment of frustration.
I learned a hard lesson a long time ago, stuck a AC 7080 with duals up to the axle pulling a disc. Took days to hand dig it out. From then on if I got in a wet spot with the disc and saw I was not going to make it out. I would unhook from the disc and the AC7080 would have no problem getting out on its own. Then I would go to the back of the disc and pull it out backwards without any problem. I don't know if this would have worked for you or not, but it always saved me a lots of time.
As a Brit who farmed in Arkansas and, got stuck exactly the same way you did, I figured that to hitch it up in reverse. That's to say I unhitched my John Deer tractor and drove it round to the rear. Tied on with both chains and, out she came. My flatbed 1973 Chevy goose-neck 5/8 plated deck (yup a real farm truck) with a new engine *grins*, but that's another story was standing by with a (okay, so it was a Habor Freight job and, I was a green horn) 12 Ton winch tied to a 36 inch gum tree . I used two chains in parallel. Didn't need the truck, but good to have it about. Never did use the straps, cept to ties down shit.
Go check out "bubba rope" it is a kinetic energy rope! I am a captain on a 129ft 5200hp harbor tug and a friend of mine owns a lumber company and has bubba ropes he uses to pull out stuck skid loaders! Well anyways he told me he'd give me $500 if I could break this thing so I hooked up to another tug and we had a tug of war! We broke it after few rounds but hell anything land based won't break it! They make many different sizes of rope but makes short work of stuck tractors if you have 2 machines on site!! Keep up the good work my friend
Every time I see a video of stuck equipment, I chuckle and think of Corb Lund's song "The truck got stuck". Great song for those into country music, but so true for recovering buried equipment. We've all been there and done that Wes, it was just your turn this time. My family used to farm some peat ground in some local state ground that was notorious for getting stuck in. That ground you would never be able to get yourself out of without another tractor (or two). It's way easier to call for reinforcements than try to rock it and make it worse. We've broken lots of chains and tow straps over the years, but I don't think we've ever broke a cable. Cable has some amazing strength. Stay safe out there.
Crib the front of the baler and drop from tractor. Pull tractor out. Hook to the cribbed baler and pull 90 degrees to remove suction from tires, then hook back up using both tractors, and pull it out. Doing a cable pull like that is what caused a friend to get killed when the cable snapped and took off his leg. Other than using using a cable thru a snatch block to be able to change directions, cable pulls require two wraps minimum to double up the pull strength and half the pulling load.
Got to tip my hat to you farmers as to the knowledge as “Handymen” that you guys have. You all need to know everything to get thru one of your days. Well done with hard work ....👍
Dig it out with the frontloader, lower the tire pressure of the 8530 tires and the 7530 to a super low pressure, and bring a compressor or make an air hose on the tractor itself to fill tire up again after you pulled it out. Ive seen people beheaded because of pulling a tractor out and snapping the cable/chain.
Hey Wes you need a snatch strap we use them in Australia for pulling 500+hp tractors out alot we have 1 strap rated to 150 ton just take a run up and pulls the tractor straight out .
Heck I could have pulled her out with my Farmall Cub !!! :) I enjoyed your video, great voice over, I hit the like and subscribe, Greetings from New Mexico
Wes I was watching Zach MMF and he millennialized the combine by installing a cable underneath and setup to pull it backwards. If Krone or any aftermarket vendor doesn’t make one I would put money on OLF fabricating one if feasible. I’m not sure BUT separating the baler from the tractor and pulling (or allowing tractor to get itself out) baler out backwards. Thanx still lovin’ your videos from the left coast near the Krapitol of California
Just stumbled on this video, hindsight is always a beautiful thing 😀, when you have been in these situations yourself, it’s always interesting to see how others approach the problem. Nothing like a cold beer or two at the end of the process☺️.
Set up a 3 or 4 to 1, takes a lot more cable but gives you 3 or 4 times more pulling power. Oh and use a jacket or blanket on the cable so if it breaks it will drop instead of hurting someone or something
I use a forestry winch with remote control and a snatch block. With the remote you can control both tractors by yourself, and the blade on the forestry winch will dig down and pull until the winch maxes out and stalls.
Just 2 things. 1, contact a heavy wrecker service in your area, might be able to score some decent lengths of 5/8s cable. Rated for just shy of 45k pounds. Or buy 100 feet new for 4-500. 2, reading the comments, most of these people have no idea how a snatch block works or how dangerous a cable breaking is. Really enjoy your videos.
When we get stuck. We unhook the tractor. Get another tractor to pull out the stuck tractor. Hook up a big strap/chain to the implement at a slight different angle and it usually comes out without too much swearing. We don't try too much to pull with everything hooked up.
To be honest I'd rather of been stuck for 2 hours muck spreading here, than spending the last day in the shop changing a head gasket that blew 4" out the back of the block on the spreader tractor yesterday with a full load on. It was a bitch to get the spreader off the tractor. The weight was back heavy so we had to block the walking axles to stop the spreader tipping back, when we unhitched the tractor. The muck sat out and froze in the beaters and floor chains, so It really didn't want to empty tonight either when I got the tractor fixed. Oh well back to spreading ready for the next cock up tomorrow If it don't snow to much tonight, I need another 2 days or so to finish. You sure aren't the only one having fun on the farm L.O.L, Thanks for sharing and I hope you get the hay done real soon.
I like the tackle and block pulley idea need a recovery strap to yank her out. we got a kinze 16 row hooked to a 8235R stuck in the muddy field while planting. hooked the new heavy duty recovery strap to the front and yanked it a couple times with a dual front and ifs 8230. was scrapping mud for a whole day after that.
The chap I work for is a farmer and marine civils contractor. His farm land is nearly all marshes and our other work is obviously fairly wet. We go straight to the snatch blocks and cables for just about everything, you can get in such a mucking fuddle trying to pull stuff out.
A little tip, actually a big one but you have one of the better items available to you in abundance to help kill the smooth mud slipstream your tyres are stuck in, is to use the hay (or straw) under the wheel to gain traction. Both straw and hay work wonders to get you out of any of these thick adhesive mud slicks with no air and sticky as hell, and straw and hay breaks that to give you grip. Im a farmer's son, so I know what I am saying and have been in such positions before. So, nex time ye all..........I wonder if olf will see this, seeing as video was one year ago ? How does YT work in this sense I have to ask?
I hate to say it Wes...I think two things need to happen.Put duals front and back on the 8530 and the second thing is even more contraversal then the first thing.You might want to invest in something like what's in my picture.A 9620R or 9630 articulated 4-wheel drive with duals. The whole time that I watched this video,I was just shaking my head in disbelief on how much time and manpower it took to get the 8530 out the hole.The other thing that I've thought about is this Wes...what tractor can you run that Krone with if something happens to the 8530???.The only other choice would be the 7810,but you said your going to be getting rid of that tractor,so this means that the weight of the entire operation"rides"on the 8530 with no backup at all.Sounds scary to me.
I enjoyed watching; good info. It confirms that I am not the only person learning lessons about what works and what doesn't work. I am one who my son says "has gotten everything stuck at one time or another". Of course not on purpose - I unintentionally hit the limit. Here are my suggestions, some are stated by others. 1. Ensure the pulling tractor (7530) operator uses the lowest, slowest gear. If tires spin after grass is been ripped up, STOP. Speed is not a friend. Filling tires w/ mud/dirt has no benefit. 2. Consider manually removing mud from stuck tractor's tire tread. I have gotten unstuck with this tip even without a second pulling tractor. 3. Lower tire pressure especially if tip #2 is used. This may benefit stuck and pulling tractors. This broadens the footprint and adds grip. My radials allow max 25 psi, so I consider half that to get out. 4. Cable is a great idea. I have a 40' and 80' myself for 'pulling from a distance'. However the block should be at the stuck tractor (8530) if you have 1 block for double pull power. If you have 2 blocks and enough cable, anchor to 8530, add block at tree then block at 8530 for triple pull power. 5. If you have multiple tractors that can pull the 8530, each should be acting (attached) independently on the 8530. Parallel pulling is less stress on cable than tractors in series.
It always amazes me the difference in top soil. Seeing a large tractor stuck like that and the fact that it was dry enough to bale hay. Seen a challenger track type tractor stuck in a field get pulled out by a wheeled tractor that was half the size.
what you want is a 20 ton hydraulic logging winch mounted on the 3 point linkage with a fold down spade, there are a few chaps in the UK running around with them and they are great, don't need a massive tractor on them and they will pull most things out with out ripping the ground up.
The amount of force doubles for every you run it through a pulley. Always lay something on top of the cable to keep it from whipping around when it snaps. A truck floor mat works good!
I spent 34 years in the service and have worked with lots of anchor chains on various ships. When one of those chains break, it's really scary. And they do break.
Great video. It was not clear if you had multiple pullies. If I had one pulley I would put it on the tractor that was stuck and then run cable from the tree through the pulley and back towards the tree to my tow tractor. Then you would have double line pull so almost twice the force.
You know it would have came right out if Tim wasn't wearing that ridiculous shirt. Hahaha. Keep up the good entertainment there boss!!!! We have snow on the ground up here in MT haying season was done about 3 months ago.
i picked up a 60ft cable that was used for a 20 ton overhead crane for $10 from a place i worked. We have used it for over14 years still havent broke it.
OK, seeing you had one pulley on the stuck tractor to double the pulling force, when this is not enough, hook the end of the cable to the stuck tractor, then to a pulley on a tree, back to a pulley on the tractor, and then to the tractor that is pulling. You have now tripled the pulling force.
Good job Wes getting stuck sucks I've pulled lots of silage trucks and I always tell the drivers once you spin stop and we will pull you out , but this spring I got the tractor stuck and I only tried to back up and go ahead once but had to hire a winch tractor to pull me out so it was expensive and chipped my pride lol
dropped the combine into a 6' sink hole last week, ended up resting on the frame and corn header...took a backhoe coming in to dig the right side wheels out then pulling the combine out of the hole, thankfully nothing broke
Our whole area was very rich, but low land. It had to be a very dry year for no one to get stuck bad at least once. One of our neighbors had a 150' long 1.5" thick cable. It was great because you could hook on from a distance and pull each other out. Of course it was so stiff you basically had to hook the 2 ends to the drawbar and drag it from farm to farm with the cable in the ditch. But it worked.
In Italy we have the same problem in the rice fields, what we found works the best is to use pirelli tire; we found they “unload” the dirt better than all the others brand. You might want to try it out
this is why i'm glad i have a 8" wide 3/8 thick 20' long tow strap when we pull our stuff out. along with 2 1/2" wide 20' long straps for doubleing together for strength with 20' long 120 chains for distance and we dont have much of a issue pulling ourselfs out 99.9% of the time. better luck next time city boys.
just wondering ... before trying the block & tackle Why didn't you try hooking both tractors up to it separate so they both were pulling you forward together, but instead of one in front of the other have them side by side ?? (seems as if it would have had twice the pull power & better traction & better pulling momentum)
The shot of the broken cable with times shirt is perfect and i realise it wasn't an option but the last time I got a tractor stuck in the mud it was a farmall h with a wide frontend and I just walked away mind you model of winter let the ground freeze over night and came back in the morning started it up put it in reverse and backed out
Hi Wes I hear your about 'kinetic ropes' and webbing straps, wires and chains my personal choice in this situation here in the UK is two or three pulleys set up as a block and tackle sailing ship style.. to a fixed anchor it takes a lot of stress off the wire rope while providing extra leverage... but does use considerable more wire rope though ... keep the videos coming.....
Hi Wes apologies I didn't explain clearly..... what you appear to have done is anchor point on stuck tractor to tree anchored pulley to pulling tractor apologies if you did it differently... what I was trying to explain is the end anchor point to 'stuck tractor' to pulley on fixed tree anchor, back to dolly on tractor returning to a tree dolly then to pulling tractor this gives a three to one advantage on the pulling tractor - we only had 'light weight' land rovers without the brute force you guys have, when we got stuck so had to make up lack of 'pull' with pulleys.. to get us out of wet sticky clay. trouble we had was the total length or wire rope needed was three times distance to anchor points.
WesWe use a 80 tonne snatch strap when pulling out our 8360R with a 7210RWorks really wellThat was also pulling a 40 ft planter and 10 tonne air cart that was doing similar things like your baler.Pay about $1000 for it but we'll worth it
Good day. Why did you give up firewood, You could do it in winter time. Boy there sure is alot of trees along fence rows. We lived along gravel sideroad with maple trees , they would suck moisture from ground, & sun light, kept production way down Thanks
Way back in the sixties, one of my uncles* was bulldozing downhill (with a Cat D7 or 8) and throwing the winch into gear to brake him on the slope - cable secured to something substantial at the top of the slope. Apparently he snapped the OEM cable so ordered a replacement next size up and a few days later snapped that - he was a bit of a grumpy b*st*rd and then got the heaviest ****ing cable they sold, fitted it and continued as he was... - this time the cable was fine but he ripped the winch and the back of the gearbox off... I was initially sceptical about this, but also heard the story from the guy who sold him the cables and someone else who told the story of a dozer being abandoned in a valley on his old station with a smashed off gearbox, neither knew I was related to him so I believe it, also knew him... *Widely accepted as being the mad, bad, blacksheep of the family - he inherited a good sized station and cash, of around a million quid total, in the sixties (would be well into 8 figures now) and blew the lot in little more than a year.
Imagine having to do that 4 or 5 times a day.......8400 and an 6 row peanut combine......We went and got our 850 JD dozer and carried it everywhere we went......Some of the ruts in the field were 2 foot wide and 3feet deep before the tire would climb up on solid round....Dozer never got above an idle
Yah I'm wondering why the 7810 instead of the 8120 also and I was thinking having the 7810 pull beside the 7530 would have been better, double up the cable again/have the 7810 pulling the other end of the cable
I have done many, recoveries, mostly in Afghanistan. And i can tell u always have a shovel! Dig out infront of all the tires especially what your towing! Other than that good job!!
Get a kinetic rope from kringstead iron will use them in the Red River Valley in North Dakota for pulling out stuck 620 quadtracs they are designed so you can take a 620 horsepower case quadtrac at 5 miles an hour and full throttle and give it a little yank and it'll come out every time even in this thick Valley mud
is that all u use for wrenches is Knuckle Busters. zero yep zero of them crappy tools on our farm. instead double of nearly every size wrench in every tractor, truck, combine etc. hell when i was little that was one of the jobs i had every sunday to make sure there was all the proper wrenches in every tool box, Dad made a chart list for me to follow.
I use to farm in a very muddy place in Spain. We use ropes or chains to pull the tractor. I show your video to my father and he is interested in the pulley sistem. Could you made a video explaining it? I think it would be useful. Thanks
A Married Eye Splice, or even better, a Logger's Eye Splice would be much stronger and safer than that clamp on that rope. They are both easy to learn and make a strong permanent eye in any wire rope. I believe the four wheel drive thing you mentioned was the diff locks.
You've probably been told but, GET TOW STRAPS. Stop trying to unstick things with chains before you die! Much safer and you can get a little spring out of them which helps a lot to give a jerk and get things unstuck
For future reference you are flawed with your hook up. You put the pulley on the tree, and that gave you 0 advantage, it takes as much power and traction with no mechanical advantage. You tie the cable to the tree, put the pulley on your baler tractor and pull with the other one and now you have double the effort , or half as stuck etc. Also you can have 500 hp in your 7530 it won't do you a bit of good, it takes weight to pull a load not hp, if you had fluid in the tires that tractor could have pulled you the first time. Good luck
Exactly, thank you! The pulley has to be "moving" in order for it to gain any advantage, otherwise it is just a directional change with nothing gained. Think a pulley hanging from a ceiling with a rope layed over it, pulling up 100lbs requires 100lbs of pull downward on the other end. Switch the pulley to the load and pull up and only half is required, although you'll have to pull double the length of rope to move the load a certain distance. Tractor tires don't have great traction on asphalt because there is not much rubber on the road, if you had turf tires, totally different story. Ag tires are made for field work for sure.
Making a braided loop is quicker than the guy wire clamp and retains 90 percent of the cables original strength and there are youtube veidos on it that are simple enough for a hick like me to understand hope this might help in the future there Wes and keep up the good work hoss
When my brother got the field finisher stuck he drove the tractor out then hooked the chain to finisher and back to the 3 point and used the arms to tighten the chain and keep pulling it out slowly he got it out but it took awhile don't know if it would've worked for you guys but glad u got it out
Throw a marlin spike in your tool box, I could splice a new eye in the cable in about 5-10 mins. Use to work on a tugboat and we moved 20,000 ton ships with 1.5 inch cables, they wear and you splice a new eye or two broken ones together and you are back to work.
got my jd 520 stuck in the woods. took 2 1/2 hrs with a 4 ton comealong to get it out by myself till the last 5 min when i needed my mom on the tractor.
regarding the bulldog clamps the saying goes never put a saddle on a dead horse. ie the saddle goes on the live or in comeing part of the cable. also tha army gets their tanks or other heavy stuff stuck so the people can learn how to pull them out. with lots of snatch blocks...
