When I bought my 98 impreza wagon it had this bushing in the glove box, and my brother who was a mechanic fought for an hour under the car trying to get to it and failed. I'm going to try this as soon as I get home today, thank you
I also helped alot of subaru owners with this job, but for me I prefer to remove the transmission crossmember to work more freely on the roll pin. To remove this use an old 3/8" extension to punch it out first then use a roll pin puncher to hammer it out. And inserting the pin, use the the same 3/8 extension cup to guide the pin in and then hammer the puncher to push it in and let 1/4" pin showing out the bottom. Thk you for the video from the island of Aruba in the caribbean.
This DOES NOT look easy for my level of "expertise"... However, I am so glad I found this video! This is GOLD! Even after installing the lower "Shifter Bushing" combo, my shifter feels supper sloppy. This should take care of it! Thanks again Mr.SUBARU! Nailed it.
Purchased a 97' Impreza Wagon today and it has the same slop. Glad I am somewhat familiar with a manual as learning with this would be a nightmare. Thanks for the guide. Parts ordered, then it's go time.
I knew saving this video would be a good idea! My upper shift joint bushing just took a dump on me, and I still have the brand new one I never put on the transmission side of the system. So im going to just put this up top so I can get into 5th and reverse again! Thanks again bro! Also; just realized my shifter return spring is missing. Makes a lot of sense now. Crappoli.
I really appreciate the detail of the video and the lack of music that makes me want to close this tab (or put in ear plugs). I'll be tackling this on my wife's Outback and this is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you!
Hi MrSubaru1387, I have been chasing a jerky acceleration/deceleration issue 2003 liberty (legacy) 5MT, after fixing the shifter, cleaning the throttle body, replacing rear gearbox mount, checking TPS, checking earthing - all with the help of your videos. I have FOUND the source of the jerky on/off throttle. The "Neutral" switch in the gearbox was constantly open circuit, causing the engine revs to rise and fall too quickly, the switch is supposed to short when the car is in gear and change the ECU response. Brown plug on the bell housing goes to the on/off switch in the gearbox (same switch type as the reverse switch), Might be a helpful video
Dude this is awesome. Most clear walkthrough of this that I've seen. I'll be doing this to my Forester once it warms up, along with about half your other Subi videos. You got another subscriber!
Part No. for part up to part way through 2005 is 35047AC030. This has a small eye for the attachment of the return spring part. This is the one shown in this video. It also has a 10mm bolt on the gear stick end. Part No. for part way through 2005 onward is 35046-AG000. This has no eye, as that return spring seems to have been deleted. It has a 14mm bolt at the gear stick end.
I am doing this on an Australian 2005 Liberty (Legacy in other countries), non turbo. Differences are: -there is no shifter return spring or plate, attached to the universal joint on this iteration of the car. -consequently, the entire operation can be done from below the car. While I removed the console to investigate initially, that turns out to be not necessary on this car. -there is an inner and outer roll pin. You need to put the car in 5th or reverse to roll the selector shaft, to make it easier to get a drift onto the inner pin, and drive it all the way through. A 3/16" or 5mm drift is good, as it lessens the chance of the drift becoming jammed, and allows a tad of offset between the drift, and the pin -the outer pin needs some solid hits with a lump hammer; personally I was uncomfortable belting it sufficiently hard, but I watched a couple of vids (this being one) and it is ok to hit with some force. I used a piece of 8mm rod, about 270mm long. that made it easier. -I am waiting for the part ATM, but when reinstalling, I will be getting the large roll pin started in the yoke *before* putting the part up under the car; getting tight roll pins started can be tricky at the best of times, so upside down lying on the garage floor is making it unnecessarily hard! *both bushes were completely gone! My sister said it was 'hard to get into 2nd', but when I drove it, the stick flopped from side to side in any gear. It was also easy to select 5th instead of 3rd.
Can you make a more realistic video where it takes a whole day of dremeling the old joint off and another whole day just driving the first part of the roll pin into the new linkage? Cause that’s a lot more accurate for me this weekend. I can’t even get the new roll pin pressed in more than 1/8 inch! It doesn’t budge at all!
And here I am pouting because I don't know what a roll pin is, how to remove or install one and still can't visualize what's going on with the under-car stuff.
I used an old shoulder bolt or bolt to fit in where the roll pin is going to go, make sure it's a close fit, so it slides easily but keeps all the holes aligned. So, as you're hammering in the roll pin, the close fit bolt keeps everything aligned as it gets pushed out by the roll pin. If that makes sense.
This video is perfect for what I needed to do. Thank you. I was not replacing anything, however, when I did a motor swap I didn’t realize the shift rod was out of the bushing under the car at the end of the rod. Everything is pretty rusty and looked to be a pita. Then I saw ur video and thought well duh that makes sense just take the shifter handle assembly apart and the rod will be able to move around a lot more free so I could slide the bushing over it
Loved this video, could've used slightly better angles, but it got the job done. Instead of reusing or getting a new roll pin, we inserted a bolt and nut to hold it in. Perfect replacement. Loving the fresh feel of the pivot joint. Everything's so firm and feels right, I don't have the loose shifter swinging every place when driving and the shifting points are closer in and tighter.
Thanks for this video, helped me a lot. The roll pins are quite hard to get out, small one not so bad, larger one requires more thought, as mentioned multigrips are your friend. If you want to save a few dollars, fix the old knuckle - grind the end of the pin in the loose knuckle joint, knock it out, use some 13mm irrigation poly pipe as a bush, cut some washers out of same poly pipe, put back together. I tapped a 6mm thread in the end of the old pin to secure back in the knuckle. For us in Australia liberty/outbacks have the hi/low range lever as well, but the knuckle can be undone from below the car without taking the whole assembly out
My shifter joint and shifter bushings replaced today thanks to you and your video, mi shifter feels like new, thanks a lot my friend, greetings from Costa Rica and happy new year!
FYI to all you DIYers. Later models I found out use a bolt with a lock nut in place of those FN pins. I did not, so check the size/length of bolts used from the dealership or local mechanic.
Okay, I’m jumping in! I’ve got ten years of air-cooled vw experience, but I’ve never gotten into my 2001 forester except to do brakes and oil changes...your videos are excellent as most everyone has already stated, and have given me the confidence to try my hand. Can you please tell me all of the I Part I’ll need to get to do this job and to replace the shifter bushings at the same time? I’d hate to get into it and be missing some ‘secret’ part that only a subaru gear head would know about! Thanks
I'm fixing to do this for my 05' WRX, I've already replaced the front and rear shifter bushings, which wasn't fun at all. Not looking forward to doing this.
I mamanged to solve the shifter stick wobble - it was corroded linkage hole (which connects with roll pin to the transmission), which got soft/enlarged and allowed for movement. Also I tried to reuse old roll-pin - big mistake, it was dented, so allowed some movement as well! So new linkage and new roll pin fixed it for me. I found that shifting into 1st and 2nd gear got easier, after replacing transmission fluid with Subaru OEM 2k miles ago (it became almost as smooth as shifting into 3-5 gears). Can't believe proper transmission fluid can have such effect (before it was filled with some red stuff at sullivantires by previous owner)
Thanks for video. My WRX has this issue. I have the part ready to go in, just need to find the time to install. I got the upgraded unit from Turn In Concepts. It has much stiffer bushings and are unlikely to fail again. Figure the upgraded one will last the life of the car now :)
Too hard for me, I think my mechanic will have to do it...... come to think about it, he changed it last year now its gone again. So for a 20 year old car that only had one change, and now the second gone in 12 months - he should fix it for free. But a well presented video. Will now check out the rest.
For anyone having trouble with the roll pin, some things that helped a lot were putting it into 5th gear (gives more access), lots of pb blaster, and using a compressed air duster can upside down on the roll pin to cool it down. Came out very easily after that. Also company23 makes a punch for axle pins, but it works fantastically for this job.
What else did u use or get to get the big roll pin out I seem to can’t get it out it’s jammed stuck in there ! Used air hammer ! Punches. Heating it up cooling it down nothing can’t get it out! Any suggestions????
Have any of you ever seen bushings so beat that the shifter won’t go over far enough to go into 5th or reverse? About to look at a 98 outback with that problem. He thinks the trans is bad. I think it’s worn out shifter bushings. I’m going to manually put it in reverse from underneath and see if it moves. If it does, I’ll consider that a diagnosis of bad shifter bushings. Anyone concur?
Thanks for the video, I have the one in my 02 Impreza outback with the same issue. And if you get around it could you make a video about taking apart a sohc head it would be greatly appreciated.
That roll pin is the most difficult part of this job :-( I'd love to know how you got it out and put it back in. I've spent some hours already trying various methods, such as a c-clamp, but it's hard to get a small bolt in to help the clamp push it out. A hammer doesn't work as well.
Love this! I have the same issue one my JDM WRX! You make it seem so manageable haha I thought I'd never be able to fix this one my own. Thanks! How did you go about getting that pin out? Did you drill it out from under the car?
Okay, and there's enough room under there to get it? I was underneath my car a couple months ago just looking around to try and see what the issue is, but I don't remember having enough room to swing a hammer.
Got the pin out.. Now... The joint will not come off. It appears to be fused in place. Tried hammering, heating etc... Going to have to cut it off with my dremel. I'm in the middle of a center differential swap so I have the exhaust, drive shaft and trans cross members removed for easy access. This really sucks!!!
I ordered the part for my wife's 96 Outback Legacy (different Part no) and in thinking about the roll pin, is this a two pin system where there is an outer roll pin then a smaller pin inside to hold it tight? If so, that would explain the frustration. If you try to remove both at the same time, you might as well flip the car over cuz it ain't gonna go well
will this be the same process for my '01 2.5rs? so i dont have to remove the transmission cross member? how long did this take to complete the job, 2hrs? this was a great video by the way, made me more confident in attempting to do this myself
moua xiong yes, should be the same. I was actually installing a 2.5RS Kartboy short shifter in this 2.5GT Legacy while replacing the joint and bushings.
moua xiong time, can't say due to the fact that filming the process makes it much longer. I'd say two hrs would be plenty of time to knock this project out.
Hey brother, How did you actually remove the pin from under the car ? Where the shifter linkage is connected to the box. Did you use a hammer & punch & tap it upwards ? Cheers Jason
I have an '07 Impreza and I am trying to do this service. The shifter stay rod mount bolt (5:21) on my car is rusted and rounded beyond belief. Anyone have any suggestions for removal? I was thinking a bolt extractor but I don't think I could fit a hammer in there to hit it onto the bolt.
Thinking about buying my first Subaru. It's a 2008 outback 2.5i manual transmission with 84,000 miles. It's been dealer serviced and is super clean. Any advice on things to look out for or check would be cool.
I have really enjoyed and learned from you videos. I cannot find one that addresses the problem causing the gearshift to be stuck in neutral, but releases with a small flat head in the hole beside the shifter. Is there a problem with the linkage? Do you have a video of it? Thanks so much. wayne
I did this yesterday, i can only get the large roll pin back in half way, and now my gear shifter is not centred its to the left, please help - 04 impreza rs
Do you think this would fix the shifter being loose in a up and down motion? I don't have much play at all left to right but and can pull up on the shifter, I can tell it is grading while I drive as well. :/ Great vid though, I will be double checking these joint soon.
That's probably the shifter stay bushings, the one he took off underneath to get to the linkage. Or the roll pin has elongated the hole on the linkage. But I would first have someone in the car moving the shifter around while you watch the linkage and stay to see where movement is coming from.
Got a 95 legacy outback with a clutch cable system... Cars clutch seems to be working but trying to shift into gear grinds in reverse and is very hard to get into 1st through 5th if at all. What could cause this.
Que buen video,una catedra de subaru como siempre.....es el mismo procedimiento para un legacy del año 92??creo que en estados unidos se le llama liberty,es uno que tienes ahí en tu taller que viene con motor ej22,el que es de color azul
I'm having a real tough time removing the old rusty shifter joint from my 2003 Outback 5-speed....it's rusted on so tight that I'm trying to cut it off with a dremel tool. The pin is out but I still cannot move it. There's no clearance to give it a good hit with a hammer, to try to knock it loose. At this point it's half cut off but still cannot be moved because of the rust. I am going to try using heat to see if that will help. Any other suggestions? Ugh!
Why did you changed the u joint with a new one and did not swap just the bushings in the old u joint? There are 6 bushing in total. 2 smaller in the u joint (transmission side), 2 bigger (gear shift side) as well as 2 bigger (same as the other) in the other side of the axle (where it connects with the gear shifter).
Hi, thanks for the vid. I have battled with that roll pin for two evenings now. it's so mangled now there's nothing left to push at. I'm considering just drilling the whole thing out but I can't get a straight shot with a drill bit. Also, my spring was missing. There's no place on the joint to attach one and your replacement doesn't have one either. is that a critical piece?
Jeff, I’m having the same problem. I have resorted to using a dremel tool with cutting wheel to cut the damn thing off. This is difficult because there is little room to work and maneuver. How did you make out? I am worried that after I manage to remove the roll pins the joint will be rusted on and fused to the transmission shifter rod.
@@acflick64I was dropping the transmission to replace a stripped first gear anyway so I just ended up undoing the joint bolt and dropping it as is. It was much easier to punch out the pin with the transmission out of the car. Sorry that’s not the easy way you were hoping for. I just used a nut and bolt of same diameter when I put it back together to make it easier if there is a next time.
@@jeffflowers729 gotcha. I’m wondering if I should attempt to drop the transmission myself. My chief concerns are (1) the work would be done on my driveway with the vehicle on jack stands (not ideal but doable) and (2) the clutch really should be replaced now as well. Given that, I’m leaning towards taking it to my mechanic to do the clutch and while at it take care of the shifter problem. I’d do the clutch myself but I may find myself getting in over my head quickly…I’m not worried about the mechanical or technical stuff - that’s easy, what can become a problem is rust, corrosion, or sheer weight of trying to manhandle the transmission off the car. 😳
@@acflick64 it's my sons car and he had another to use. I did it in the garage over two months. Just whenever I had an hour here and there. I've worked on my BMW V12 in the past but dropping and opening up a 5sp to replace gears was my most accomplished DIY ever. I did replace the clutch while it was down. Don't want to do this twice. I use 6x6 timber blocks at four corners. It's a big job for the DIY guy. Lot's of cross members and heat shields and battling rust but also you have to remove the two front cv axels. I used a jack to lower it but ended up literally man handling and bench pressing it back up to get it in place. One tip I never see on the vids is to leave or take off the tail piece and it's easier to get it back up. At least in my case it was because of a cross member I couldn't get off.
HELP! Does anyone know how to selct gears with just the rod from the transmission? I replaced this joint and accidentally pushed the rod in and now the gears dont line up with the shifter😅
Hi, I understand the spring pins are a pain the butt. But what length of punch tool do you use to get them out? I plan on doing this next week after all my parts are. delivered. Thanks, Matthew Kimmel Sacramento
For the benefit of later readers, a set on *long* punches is helpful. For the inner, I used a 5mm punch, about 170mm long. That was a bit short and was fiddly. For the outer, I used an 8mm piece of rod, cut to 270mm long. That made it much easier to get a good hit on the end of the rod. I needs a good whack. (nb my car is an aussie 2005 Liberty (ie legacy) with no spring shifter spring return plate, so might have slightly difference access)
Got the roll pins out, the rear stay bushing out, but the joist is fused onto the shifter rod. Any tips to get that off? I gave it some firm taps with my hammer, but I don't want to hit it too hard because I'm afraid of damaging the shift forks in the transmission. I gave it some heat and penetrating spray, but I was thinking a dremel and cutting wheel.
How did this end up? I am having the same problem…only one of my roll pins came out, the outer pin in fused/rusted so tight that the joint will not come off the shifter rod that goes into the transmission. I have slowly been attempting to cut it off little by little but it is quite difficult since there is very little room to work . Curious how you made out. Thanks.
Gonna replace mine this weekend! Unfortunately NY rust everywhere.. Question though, mines a 2002 forester which looks the same in the video but mine doesn’t have a spring that yours did. Do you know we’re I could possibly get one? eBay and some Subaru websites and no luck
Most likely you can get it from the dealership. Probably have to look it up in their system. I see it listed here as part number 17, but there is no corresponding part number for 17. opposedforces.com/parts/forester/us_s10/type_19/manipulation/manual_gear_shift_system/illustration_1/
Thankyou. Ran into a problem already. Got the inner pin out about 3/4 way and that and the punch are now stuck. Looks like I might have to start cutting something
would a rusted shifter joint cause harsh vibrations at a certain RPM? I have a 2010 subaru impreza and I get a loud vibration at around 4k RPM. I already replaced the shifter bushings and greased the shifter ball/cup but that only helped a little. The shifter joint looks very rusted so I think it might be really stiff. This setup looks pretty much identical to mine so I assume the procedure would be similar?
I followed this guide and now my car is making a very loud squeeling/rubbing noise when I move it (even in neutral) Do I need to grease the new bushings? Or has something else gone wrong sigh
I know I'm 7 months late, but my general rule of thumb is if there's any moving/pivoting part you're repairing or replacing - grease it. Even if manufacturer or anybody says you don't have to, doesn't matter - grease it. A couple extra minutes to apply some grease and wipe up the excess is way less time than having to redo the job. I'm thinking that wasn't the problem, though, was it? Did you insert the push pins in correctly? The smaller one goes in first, or it won't set and will get pushed out eventually, making the assembly loose and could cause a grinding or squeaking noise.
Ok so I’m looking at a 2002 wrx Impreza. 5spd and I need to know what’s up with the shifting. I feels so dry and almost scratchy and kinda got stuck in first for a second when I was parking. It had plenty of slip but nothing was smooth. Could it be just the bushings? Or low on transmission fluid and bushings? Plz help
And also in the video why wasn’t the shifter returning to center?was it that return spring? And the new one didn’t have it? Or is it something in transmission? Honda’s don’t have any external springs and that’s the experience I have
Dear MrSubaru, do you know please how you remove just the shifter shaft with ball joint. (out the white greasy thing) I stopped using brute force as I didn't want to brake anything, but thats what people have said do? Surely i'm missing something..?
thanks! i thought as much tho but I can't find it. lol Its midnight here, ill try tomorrow and let you know how I get on. I have a 'few' pics on mine on IG same username if you;re interested ;)
