Hey Nigel, I recommend leaving quite a stub when pruning this maple even on thicker branches otherwise it will die back almost always. I have many norway maples. They are native here in Germany.
Hi nigel!!!! Love the videos!!! Could you talk about jades in detail a little bit I have a 5-6 year old one and have zero inspiration/motivation to style it! Thanks for the awesome videos
You pointing out the failures of how the tree responded to pruning teaches us just as much, if not more than pointing out the successes. So while it's a shame the tree didnt do what you wanted it to, it's still a good teaching video. When a tree does what we want it to, we tend to just accept it, and move on, but pointing out deficiencies is a good way to learn too!
@@TheBonsaiZone That's all we can do. Try and improve, and learn as we go. Certain species, even specific trees don't always work like you expect them to. I have 2 Serviceberry trees, one is normal and reacts to pruning by growing branches at the top most bud from the cut point. My other one says "time to start over" and starts throwing out suckers from the base. It's all about knowing your trees
so much rain lately here im struggling to feed with powderer ferts. about to just sprinkle some on top of the soil lol. i have super fast draining mix thankfully so rain is no trouble for most of succulents. thanks nigel. maple looks amazing
Hi Nigel, it's pity some of winter pruning didn't bring expected results and dieback of the branches occurred. I would personally cut further from the future end and leave longer stubs. After new shoots emerge from desired spots, I would cut dried stubs from the junction.
Hi Nigel. On minute 15 you pruned a branch just on the lip of the "nasty" scar. Other bonsaists leave these branches for a year or two, because, according to them, will help to cover the scar by providing there an active growth zone. When the desired effect of scar closing is achieved, that branch is cut. But I respect your decisions. Good nice tree.
Hi Nigel, I wanted to mention a correction for the origin of the Amur maple. They are named after the Amur river valley that separates Northern China and Siberia. That by no means takes away from the great work you put into these trees! Thanks for sharing your bonsai hobby with us!
That was great - thanks for leaving in the storm. It's been the same for us in NJ.... every day it clouds up and by evening in come the storms. It's quite tropical which isn't surprising as July 4th was the warmest day globally EVER recorded. The sea, the land, the atmosphere is warming up exponentially. We'll be having baobabs growing wild soon...😅
I've learned that these maples do not cooperate with their winter pruning for me either, every so often it does but it does what it wants. Great video Nigel, got to love those greenhouse rainstorms! THANKS!
After reading some comments I'm going to try to cut under the further bud site instead of above the future one, to allow for as much die back as it needs 😂. I always figured an inch or so was plenty to avoid killing the nearest bud site, at least more often than not. I'm ALWAYS learning in The Bonsai Zone!
I love that red maple! I’m going to have to get my hands on one. I really like the movement. Ok, now I’m off to order some keys.🤣👍 Have a good weekend Nigel.
I really appreciate how you talk about “why” you choose or not to choose the pruning decisions you make. So many other videos, just do the pruning without explaining the thought process. Do you do late summer (August) pruning of deciduous bonsai? Specifically maples, Japanese and trident maples. Or is it better to wait till fall? Take care and have a blessed day, Nigel!! I’m a big fan of your videos!! Happy bonsai!
Thank you for your informative videos. I enjoy each and every one. Do you have updates on your African Acacias grown from seed received from Nico in South Africa?
I really love the Maple family, I only have some Japanese and Chinese maples. Would love to have some North American and European Maples. The one Japanese maple that I have is grafted, but the graft is to high, I did a air layer and hope it will be successful.
I have several species that do not bud back reliably after spring prunes as well. My compromise is to prune hard late summer and then leave for the next year's spring growth to harden off. Then can reliably prune back to viable shoots. A coating of corn starch stops any light sap flow at this time of the year. BTW, the large trunk structure looks perfectly natural for our Bigleaf maples (Acer macrophyllum) on the west coast - love it!!
You talk about growing that one in the front garden from a seed, I seem to remember a mintoba maple you grew the same way. Do you still have that tree? If so how is it coming along?
These trees grow fine in the ground, put I just can't keep them healthy when put in a pot. The tops began to die back. I just had suckers growing from the base. I still have them, but I don't water them anymore. I think they are dead now. It may be the temperature of the soil in a pot, too warm?
Pine pruning is best done in early winter, but always leave some good healthy growth on the tree branches!! Maples can be pruned after leaf drop or after the first flush of growth has hardened off!
