i have since sold that amp. i had absolutely no issues with it at all. i even bought a second one and ran both at .5 ohm. sold all that and now i have 2 scv7500s and guess what. both at .5ohm. i had to put a fan on these to keep them cool but no issues since then.
The amp would 100% go into protection.. this is a fixed ohm load, there's no rise on a dyno, it might do .8ohm but doubtful.. it's made to protect the amp, thats a good thing. But it would definitely run .5 in the real world.. I just bought the deaf bonce 4k it has dual 1/0 power/grounds, and I'm sure it does well over 4k on good electrical. And rated 2500 at 2ohm. Has more nice features too
@@tankdog03ify Considering the Deaf Bonce AAK-4000.1 over the SCV-3000d/4000d at the moment. Would you say you would recommend the DB? How is the current draw & temperature? Also, trying to decide between SAX200.4 & AAK-200.4 as well. Any advice would be appreciated.
Aaron Ali If U use the stock bass remote the DB AK4000.1 has features such as volts, clip, I think temp. As far as internals, they prob very similar.. if Korean likely made from the same place S&I or xenon.. The sundown has great warranties & customer service, idk about DB.. SCV has better damping factor however some say damping factor is not a huge deal as long as it’s over 50.. Sundown has/ had trade up programs so if you go with a SCV 3k due to budget, keep it nice til u ready for the 4k/ 6k.. SCV & AAK both use samwha capacitors $769 for the AAK 4K, closest SD is the chinese SAE 3000 $749 which the AAK will be the better choice imo ( sorry sundown) If $ ain’t a thing get the SCV 4000 ($1149) but then$1199 can get u a AAK 5500.1 so it depends how important warranty, price, & CS is to you.. hope this helps.. oh yeah you will need upgraded electrical to run either ✅💪
@@uptobatentertainment Appreciate the reply & info bro =) Decided to go the Deaf Bonce route although i'm a big fan of Sundown. So far i have the AAK-200.4 & the AAK-OGO1500.2. Waiting patiently for the AAK-4000.1 to come back in stock where i am. Have a double run of Sundown 0g front to back. Northstar 76ah front, 105ah in the back. Looking to upgrade to a 217ah in the back & a Mechman 240 in the hopefully near future. Was considering the AAK-5500.1 but not sure if i'd be comfy going that heavy. Will see how it goes O_o
Aaron Ali you will have plenty of reserve imo .. unless you ride around listening to -0db tones, you will never pull that much current on music .. you got a really nice build going!!!! The AAK amps are nice for sure!
Remember also that it would be highly unlikely for the amp to see .5ohm on music. You won't see these kind of number in a vehicle on music - this goes for any amp. Still very respectable numbers on this amp.
i look at strapping like crossfire or SLI for computer graphics cards.....running 2 graphics cards at one time if the one card preforms in a game at 80 FPS (100%)...you would expect 2 to do 160 fps (200%) in reality, its more like 130fps (around 150 to 180%) their is some overhead.....you have to run extra software and the 2 cards have to talk to eachother....so you dont get exactly 2x performance probably the same with amps.....it may say you get 4000 watts.......but id be happy with 3500 plus, having to run extra power and remote turn on cables....extra set of RCAs....ETC its a big pain in the neck, takes up a lot of room... it will work.....but its better to just get the bigger single amp
eric w I know this comment is 2 years old, but I think a response wouldn't hurt lol. The results it will put out in a car solely depends on the electrical system (batteries and alternators). If you have enough good batteries and a 300+ amp alternator, it should produce the same results. There's no practical setup that this wouldn't be enough power for.
@@livingbass9617 there's no impedance rise on a dyno like there is in the real world.. I doubt you would even come close to these numbers, that's why people wire to .5 and rise to 2ohm.. so really these dyno numbers are your max perfect condition numbers, not real world numbers
This is also not on music, the dyno is testing a steady 40hz tone on a fixed ohm load.. real world has multiple tones and impedance rise and voltage fluctuations.. very strong amp though, I would run one
Anyone who buys an amp based on the 1 ohm test deserves to be ripped off. The only tests that matter are the 2 and 4 ohm tests. With box rise no one will ever see that 1 ohm power.
DAMN!!!!!!!!! That amp is incredible to hold and not blow with practically no resistance at all, shit can y'all do 0.0 ohms? I'm just curious, i remember i had a alpine i think 1500d v12 joint back in like 2000 that bitch used to slam but i took her to 1 ohm couldn't get through 1 song either it was the amp blowing or my speakers and i had the fosgates HX2's back then fresh outta high school everybody was like what the fuck you got in there? lol btw it was a bitch ass 91 T-bird i had hated that car, sounds costed more cause sounds are always important lol.
why not do uncertified? I doubt people buying this amp want to see what it'll do for SQ or on a kick drum.....need burp power figures before impedance rise! that's all that matters in spl anyways.
Is a sundown saz 1500d .5 ohm stable on a daily??? I want to connect 2 SAs dual 2 ohm , or should I just play it safe and connect them at 2 ohms? ?? Any suggestions are appreciated.
If you have the Electrical .5 all day...no a cat who has a saz 1500 at .5 on x 15 and he has 0 issues daily amp barely gets warm...but he has good Electrical for what he's running... Sundown ftmfw
