SUPER Insulated Garage! 

Thought the same thing.

for real, i had an apartment so old and ac so crappy they sent out letters saying don’t expect it to get under 85 during the summer. lol

@@srooster4410, Damn ! I'd be jamming in some window shakers at that point !!

Ditto

I totally agree. I'm looking at Outdoor parcel lockers that sit next to your front door to receive packages. I also have a huge mail boss mailbox outside.

Dude youd be surprised how dumb people are. I deliver for FedEx and some houses will put their garage code on the instructions so that we can go and put stuff in the garage (as if). I have never done it and will never do but i can see how that can go to shit real fast man.

Sure but it's also most likely as expensive as a very nice kitchen. I mean, when you have unlimited budget (almost), might as well go all out. It's like comparing millionaire's garage to an average Joe garage

@@sergeybebenin helps when you get most of it for ad placement too

They are meant for this application with the high lift tracks. They have lots of issues on standard tracks.

@@VulgrDisplay Good to know Thx.

@@VulgrDisplay what issues?

@@shellderp if anything makes the door hang up for a second, the door will pause, the operator will keep turning that shaft, and the cable will unspool, and then tighten around the shaft instead of the drum. I’ve installed a handful of them after trying to talk customers out of it and told them there is no warranty on it because they’re so prone to failures. I’ve come back within two years to replace them with regular openers

@@nicolasjoy1181 i have this same opener, there is a cable tension sensor that helps prevent this issue. i've had the opener for 4 years now, never and issue at all. even installed on a tight clearance track, just had to add a spring to push the door closed the first 6 inches of travel.

Appreciate that my friend!

I've never seen or heard of one before, and now it's a must have for me. Love this channel.

If you do any research into those automatic door locks, you will quickly see they have lots of problems. Most people get sick of fixing them and rip them off after a few years. They are a good idea, just not executed well.

@@brent1041 yep. And just having an operator attached makes the door immovable.

We have this same setup. The deadbolt is great, and for anybody wondering, it has a manual unlock. Along with pulling the manual release on the opener, you can open and close the door by hand if you wish.

@@brent1041 I’ve had them for years. Two per door so four altogether. They have given me no problems only peace of mind. And I paid for them. Didn’t get them for free.

same question I had. I would love to change my door out with something similar but the air sealing piece is probably important.

I will start with this - DO NOT TAMPER WITH A GARAGE DOOR IF YOU HAVEN'T BEEN TRAINED. THEY ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Sealing a overhead door is actually simple. That's if you have a sectional door. Things to consider are if it's so tight to the opening it rubs excessively or so if it's loose there's a gap. There's also the top roller adjustments, where the opener's close limit is adjusted at and also the physical force applied to the door by the opener. The condition of stop moulding and it's placement also. If you have a enclosed carport you may find the concrete sloped to one side and weather stripping doesn't seal the bottom on one side of the door. Even the angle of the opener's arm is a factor. 1. The horizontal moulding goes on first. Trim part nails flush to the inside of the opening. 2. The vertical mouldings go from the top to about ⅜“ - ½“ from the ground. That prevents any bowing if the house "settles". Use paintable caulk to seal both ends and the front side of the trim around the entire opening. Train the flaps in the upper corners for the horizontal flap to overlap the vertical flaps. 4. Weather stripping is easy to replace. There's usually small screws hidden on it's edges holding it in place on what's called the "bottom extrusion". It slides into channels from one end to another. It's a few inches wider than the door and has the excess tucked into itself on both ends. If you have a sloped drive and there's a gap find a old garden hose and insert it inside of the weather strip. Use just enough to close the gap. You wouldn't want the door closing too hard where the rise is. The bottom of the door takes quite a bit of abuse. If the extrusion is damaged beyond repairand you need a new strip it's easy to replace. If mice chews up the strip replace it with gray. They're less likely to chew it. 5. I CAN'T ADVISE MESSING WITH THE DOOR'S HARDWARE OR TAMPERING WITH THE OPENER. If you see loose hardware, bent track (particularly the verticals) or the door isn't tight call a reputable technician to service it. One thing I've seen, especially at newly constructed houses around Knoxville, TN is vertical tracks resting on the ground. That's a rookie mistake and a sign the installers don't have service experience. Just like the moulding there should be a gap to prevent bowing. It's a extremely negligent mistake. Danger being the door possibly flying off the track. The other stuff is safe for an average person to repair. Let a technician do the rest. It's easy and they usually can address any not so obvious issues they see immediately. A no parts inspection, adjust and lube can be done in way under a hour for $85.00 and no tax.

@@qwaszxpolkmncvb you don’t have such prefaces when riding a bike. But more people are killed riding a bike than by garages. Funny how paranoid people are. I have zero training on garage doors and I fix them all the time. It’s not complicated actually less complicated that riding a bike. Lol 😂

Yeah, he covers some of his Electrical on another video -- he could have used some coaching in this whole area. Or at least a LOT of spare conduits for the things they are missing.

Hello mwreyf1 I’m getting a new garage door can you tell me where did you buy the Green Hinges and is their any special size I need to get. I would appreciate the info. Thank you in advance.

Good idea, but would try not to over-spec. While Tesla uses the 50 Amp, GM tends to be 40 Amp. Some installs need GFI Breakers (if plugs), and some do not need GFI (if wall-chargers). Basic "safe" and flexible would be either 3/4" conduit + a pull string, or some #6 circuits ran back to the circuit breaker panel. You can add correct breaker and plug (or wall mount) when you know what you are getting.

LOL!! Sssso true.

Came here to say the same. Sounds like a marketing series now.

Not sure what the problem is. It’s not like he’s telling you about how great a product is but never actually using it. He’s installing all these things in his actual dream home. He will have to live with each of these install decisions on a daily basis. That means more to me than how much he paid or didn’t pay for it.

Envy is a bitter thing.

Some shitty fire balls.

Yea lmao. It was just a quick fixer upper. Now we are watching garage being finished in luxury woods probably worth as much as an average kitchen

The previous garage floor has a 2 foot hair line crack in the corner underneath some shelving. The whole.thing had to be torn down and redone.

Nothing is short of a pumper truck and hours.

I own the same battery backed garage door opener (love it). The battery is lead acid not unlike a UPS. But you make a good point. I wonder if the extinguisher will work on a lead acid battery fire.

@@sirwnstn those balls don’t last long enough to put out a battery fire. It will just start back up once the ball is gone.

This does work on Lithium Battery fire

@@thomaslivezey Lithium battery fires are caused by thermal runaway. They are extinguished by cooling the adjacent cells while trying to extinguish the actively running away cell(s) that is on fire and trying to contain it. Generally this is done by the use of all things water. Lots of water. However, do not drop or submerge into water. Just let lots of cool water flow over the battery. That is why folks are saying the above. That ball is to small to effectively extinguish a large battery fire, but with any fire time is key, so hopefully it will provide some capability to give responders time to arrive and get ahead of it.

Maybe it voids the garage door warranty

Could affect wind rating.

I would like to know why as well.

That would be good to know. How does maple plywood hold up to fire?

If you look at 2:11, there's gyspum wallboard between the plywood ceiling and the bottom chord of the roof truss. As for the walls, hardwood plywood will char before burning so it might be considered "equivalent".

Funny enough I only paid $82/sheet for that about 2-3 months ago. A steal!

The hinges are expensive and they suck. The springs on the hinges wear out rather quickly. The seal he talked about previously failed after a very short amount of time.

I want the answer to this

The rockwool insulation is probably giving it the fire stop

@@wyattbonnette3414 thats not what IRC allows as a solution. 5/8 gyp is what they want.

And taped too I thought

yes, i put plywood on the inside of a a garage once and it failed inspection. had to cover it with 5/8" drywall.