Whenever I need ANYTHING, I call my Simpson rep.... their products are amazing.... I just recently "discovered" there knee bracing for diagonals... KBS1Z or something..
Great to distribute load if you never step off the top step, everything below that is accident waiting to happen. It's not a disagreement it's simple physics.
Once you have your treads and risers installed, it won't spread. It isnt like the cut is in the direction or the grain anyway. It's not and different from notching it for a 2x4, which is what a lot of people do for the top to rest on
You do know that there is hangers that are meant for stringers. They are angled to properly go under the stringer. you can find them at your home center.
That’s great we were doing that 20 years ago. I found overtime that when you cut the wood to slide the hanger in the place you cut it tends to crack across not good. Simpson makes a LS bracket that nails to the back or front of the deck and then straps down under the stringer. Much better connection.
You actually weakened the stringer by cutting the slot, it will split in time. There are brackets available which have the angle and don't require the slotting and allow you to bear the load without weakening the framing.
@@bartsanders1553 Going to split as you step on 2nd from top, will only take a season at most, can guarantee it will split and fall down. Not to mention they are bearing a staircase on a 2x4 ledger, that should have been a 2x8 or at least 2x6 but you know..
Never do that! It won't pass inspection and is super dangerous. No hanger is necessary on this type of joint since the stringer is pushing against the deck. For it to fall, the deck would have to move away from the stringer or the bottom of the stringer move away from the deck. Since the former is next to impossible with a deck built correctly, a good connection to the ground will ensure the steps don't fall.
It’s so encouraging to read over and over again to not do this. So many times I’ve seen videos with significant design flaws, but the majority of the comments are something like, “That’s great. I want to make one just like yours.”
They actually make brackets specifically for stringers and they wrap around the bottom. You essentially reduced the strength of the stringer by 20-30% cutting into it. I’d put a short beam or brace underneath now to support the whole step
That completely does not pass inspection. Never make a dead-end kerf with the grain like that on anything load bearing or subject to vibration. You just weakened the structural integrity of the stringer, as now it’ll split at that kerf. If I were you, I’d drive one or two 3” structural screw up through the bottom of the bracket to help stabilize the weakened lumber.
I have been building decks as far back as the 80s. When I build steps for a out side deck, I build them to be free standing, so they hold them self up. Then attach them to the side of the deck. That way if the ground were to shift and pull the steps lose, this gives a better load limit and the stairs will not fall. I can see that deck it's self is fasten to side of support posts, the joist should be sitting on those post for better support. That deck would not even pass code where I live. Just saying.
That's right, any idea other than what is required to pass inspection is a waste of money and time. I can see those stringers failing coming up them with a heavy load and two heavy dudes. Up or down them would be dangerous.
Bonus points for lining up the notch perfectly with the deepest cuts for the treads and risers. That booby trap blends right in with it's surroundings. Sneaky sneaky. 😏
If people have bean doing it different professionally since forever there’s probably a good reason to that. It’s cus they last. This will split in no time. Put a bond board or even 3/4 ply or advantech on the back of your stringers to easily attach to your deck. You can still hanger them after your don’t have to weaken your stairs by notching into them like that they make angle hangers.
Super sturdy *pushes down* yep super. The hanger connects to the deck very strongly no doubt. Great idea to do it the way nobody ever should.. might as well prepay the doctor now for the cast and crutches.
@@venturahwy76You unnecessarily weakened the overall strength of the stringer. You would have been better to use two 90° plates on each side. 3 or four nails on each leaf would provide more than ample sheer strength support. The hanger's base support is already limited by the sheer strength of the nails you put into the ledger board. That notch you cut is now a prime access for water to get into the stringer, pool in there, and assist in speeding up future rot. Nice attempt, but at the end of the day that was a sub-par result.
The top step will be bulletproof, but the second will split out to where you made the cut. You inadvertently gave it a stress point to start the split at the second step.
The top step will be strong but I'll be damned if it isn't going to catch some toes when people are ascending! Maybe he's going to go back and trim those deck boards?
Is this a parody account? They make hangar brackets for what you are attempting. I do like the cut, really setting up a booby trap for an unsuspecting person down the line. Genius! 😂
What you've done is cut a 3" head start into the wood for it to crack all the way across and break in two . I'd keep fat people off of those stairs if I were you . The weak point is going to be on the 4th step up . Same as when people cut their own stringers and cut past the corners with a skill saw instead of cutting that last little bit with a hand saw , it makes the steps weaker
while i agree it's potentially dangerous what he did, larry haun would have a word with you about cutting past the corners. I'll trust the master carpenter whose built hundreds of homes. He goes maybe 1/8th of an inch past, which I seriously doubt effects the integrity of the step if at all when you consider the panels + nails are going to more than compensate for any insignificant loss in structure. The guy cutting past with a skill saw is probably done cutting out a stringer in 3-6 minutes (depending on size), and the guy whose busting out his hand saw to finish it off is probably there for 15 minutes for something a) nobody is going to see, and b) does nothing when you consider the finished structure... We're really talking about something that's purely in the realm of efficiency.
@@ronlovell5374 not a big one, just go 1.5in square across from the very end. You'll loose about 1/2in thickness at the tip of the triangle you're cutting out, Should not be a problem if you use 2x12 Stringers, which you always should anyway
@@ronlovell5374 also, ever heard of a Birdsmouth? A rafter classifies as joist as well, doesn't it? How come I can notch it then if you apparently NEVER notch ANY joist?
@AntenneSatellit A birdsmouth is upside down, load points aren't the same. They're under compression not tension, and yes there's rules for those as well. No more than 1/3 should be removed and in some jurisdictions 1/4. The rules vary on multiple factors like spans, slope/pitch, if the base is a deck/floor or top of a wall, if there's collar ties or a ridge beam being used. Feel free to look this up, but I'm a certified red seal carpenter with 25+ years experience with well over 100 custom homes under my belt.
Super. I suggest a metal stair stringer hanger strap, however, if you cut a stringer out of a wider board, say a 2 × 10 or 2 × 12, you can cut in the angle for the joist hanger, then rip the rest of the stringer down to 9 to 11 inches wide, but that seems like a lot of work when you can just use the right hanger. 💙 T.E.N.
I love these people on here .I didn't grow up with the trades, but I respect the hell out of the incredibly clever and professional way these builder and carpenters do things. They are making me more confident and training my brain to think of solutions I thought i would never do . Thank you.
Best way is to make your top rise in line with the top of the deck. It means that your deck will be longer by the depth of your top tread but you can undersized your deck to account for it. And if you don't want a 2x12 tread at the elevation of the deck you can finish the top tread with continuation of deck boards. You can also notch the deck to accept a seamless stair connection, but this concept allows the strongest stair connection without having to build down the joist to catch the first rise. I don't expect most to understand what I'm saying. Instead of making the stringers with five rises, I would have made them with six rises.
I have 45 years experience in making stairs and taking out old stairs.... some blocked, some slot - hanger like this video; I've seen both methods work well. Some expressed concerns with splitting but the slot underneath the stringer interrupts very little of the grain on the length of the stringer and is no way as vulnerable to splitting as the step cut-outs are. All stringers are vulnerable until the treads are put. I've used this slot method many times successfully. I DO use the block method for exposed stringers on decorative decks... but even with this... pre-drilling is a must, or you can get splitting this way as well. I like this slot - hanger method in many uses... it's quick and strong. 👍
That's exactly where the stringer is going to split. They make hangers special for the stringer so you don't do stuff like this. And you should have a 2x4 plate tying the front bottom of the stringers together and anchoring them to the pad. Forgot to add you should run your decking in the same direction as your stair treads. And it wouldn't hurt to picture frame it.
I like it. Very cool I also like how you put those spacers between the 2 2x6’s to make sure your ledger board came all the way down to the bottom edge of the top of the stringer. Nice work my friend
If you are concerned about twist then just block in the stringers. I am more concerned about downward force pushing the deck frame inwards then the hole staircase going down. Never cut against the grain longitudinal when you have angled vectors of force going against the cut, it will split overtime.
I'm a licensed contractor, that is not the way to attach the stringers. It will eventually split them, instead put blocks between them on the ledger or use Simpsons Steel Tie A35s or A70s.
@@venturahwy76That scares the crap out of me. Is this for a customer? Sorry man, I would sue the balls off you if you did this to my stairs. If it is for your house, I hope your Home Owners policy is paid up because once Bubba Cletus Billy Bob walks his 400 lbs plus the weight of his Natty Ice, those things are splitting and Bubba will be buying a new single wide with the money your insurance company just paid him.
You can see when looking across the grain that you have cut halfway through the width of the strength element of the stringer. It is now half as strong as it is meant to be. This is a perfect example of why you don't alter the design of something without understanding the physics of it (or even if you do frankly). It's the reason why there are so many codes to follow, because you can't trust idiots looking for shortcuts to design and make something safe or functional.
I came here to try to learn some options to add stairs to my existing deck because I am a toolmaker by trade and have minimal experience with wood work. I know enough to say without a doubt that the integrity of those stringers have been severely compromised. I hope for the sake of people's safety that this is parody!
Hangers aren't necessary at all, as long as the bottom of the stringer is secured so it can't slide out. A stringer is basically like a rafter, and hangers aren't normally used where a rafter locks agsinst the ridge. Proper nailing, supplemented with hurricane ties prevents the bottom of the rafter from kicking out. Likewise, the stringer is locked in against that ledger board as long as the bottom of the stringer is secured.
Cutting those stringers for an improper hanger there’s an accident waiting to happen. Before Simpson tie lobbyist created the metal hanger industry the same quality of strength could be achieved with blocks, simply cut a Wood block of appropriate size to sandwich in between each stringer and it will be stronger than ever never twist or fail. And if you do just want to throw money at the project , Go by the correct hanger they make one for every every application
This guy gotta be trolling. I just woke up from a hangover and loaded a bowl just to watch this damn video over and over for 30 minutes trying to figure out if I’m the dummy or he is.
They make adjustable stringer brackets, don't do this. That kerf cut *will* make those stair stringers split over time. It may take 1 year, it may take 8, but it will absolutely crack.
@@tenfour10-400 Pretty much. Although a 2x4 will support more load on an angle than horizontal. And the steeper the angle the greater the load it will support, but I still would not do this.
Imagine what hes thinking, "oh man people are going to love this building tip." This is almost malicious because its actually a really good way for someone to get critically injured falling through your fucking steps.
It’ll work for maybe a yr. Then the weather will cause that to split on the first freeze then you have no steps. Never ever notch a stringer. Ever. One good size person or couple of ppl on it in the winter… boom goes the dynamite as Cleveland always said
You cut all the strength out of the stringer when you cut it to receive the hanger. You have less than 3 inches of actual meat to hold those stairs. Be careful that top step is going to crack right off and the stairs will fall .they make hangers for stair stringers , try them before you hurt someone
It’s like videos with bad advice get more engagement. Somebody should make a channel dedicated to bad advice videos. The problem is some people might try these things and hurt themselves or others.
Half of loads apply to two inch of this stringer, right where you cut it for hanger. you should leave at least 4½" of 12" not cut to stay in safe side. People may think you doing a legit job and mock what you did which it's hazard. so please remove this video and go back and attach some 2x6 to stringers you done like this.
Looks good on the install but it weakens the stringer and could cause spliting of the wood especially in climates with hot summers and freezing winters. Simpson makes a hanger for this application which works well. If you like using this hanging process you should at mininum cut your stringers from a 2x12 rather than a 2x10 and it will maintain a higher tensile strength.
Hey guys here’s a little tip for you….. they make stringer hangers. Second tip you can run structural screws in from the back. 3rd tip dont cut your stringer you need 4” between the edge and cut. With that slot there is no 4” clear material left.
those stringers were grossly weakened by cutting the slot for joist hanger. now it's equivalent to a 2x4. there are angled joist hangers made for the slope.
A lot of criticism,when i had no idea how to,i made some ugly stairs and attach them in a very similar way,they lasted a long time without any problems. Different ways to achieve the same result
This is what happen when you are not 100% on how physics works, the stringers are already strong because of the angle attach to the deck, you don’t need extra hangers to support something that’s already support by gravity all you need is to nail it and that’s all
All of the strength of a stair stringer is in the bottom of the board. When cutting stringers you essentially turn a 2x12 into a 2x6. Dont ever cut into the bottom of the board. Instead build a footing where the steps land and notch the front of the stringers to a cleat thats achored into the concrete. Also you need to run strong backs to that 2x6 back to the floor joists to keep that 2x6 from moving.
