Suspension Basics 03: Watts Link, Triangulated Four Link and Panhard Bar Explained 

I’ve been doing suspension for 30 years now... I’m pretty sure I couldn’t explain it better... well done sir...

I'm definitely not tired of these "school" type videos. I find them very helpful and your models and drawings are amazing. I know how much time they take. I really appreciate them.

When I'm fabbing something, I refer to it as a "Shopping Cart Handle" to keep people guessing. It's especially satisfying when someone agrees with me.

How do you only have 26.1K subs? RIGHT? This information is so accurate and understandable all while being articulated very well. Thanks for sharing!

I am an offroader that usually watches jeep related channels. Yet you provided the best explanation of a triangulated four-link that I have ever seen. Thank you!

DUDE! That scale model is a GREAT idea to demonstrate how each of these types of suspension work. One that I didn't see mentioned is the parallel 4 link with a wishbone (what I'm running in the Buick). It's a combination of the parallel 4 link which gives you more adjustability for traction and the triangulated 4 link which centers the housing in the vehicle. None the less, this is a great explination.

Knowledge is among the greatest gifts that can be given, and you have a gift for giving it. Love that visual aid! Almost want to go build one just to play with. This channel is gonna be a huge success.

to effect a longer arm for most suspensions shunt the top section back, it has the efect of a longer top bar for most usual suspension travels, it does however place the pinion nose in an S formation of travel. Also for a more sturdy "triangulated 4 bar", just create a solid A frame and so the axle has a single pivot point (whether a ball or rose joint it makes no odds). In all cases the suspension will travel in a curve, it's physics of tying one end to a fixed point, because on a Watt's link there are 2 tied ends the curve is different above the medium and below it, so you will get a S shaped travel, it might not be very pronounced but it's goin to be there. It's good that you highlighted this but only effects in extreme upper and lower positions. The longer the centre pivot bar the more pronounced the S will be. All suspension setups have disadvantages, it's finding the one you can live with it's disadvantages or the disadvantages don't come into play on your amount of travel.

I'm fairly dense without visually seeing so the fact that you took the time to create the model is awesome very clear and easy to understand and follow along.

This was insanely informative. I'm a freshman mechanical engineering student and this reminded me why I'm interested in the first place. Thank you!

I stumbled on your channel . All I have to say is WOW. Just got a new RU-vid channel set up. No content yet. A friend and I will be just showing what we enjoy from Rats and Mini Trucks : ME and 4x4 and Odd rides : Him. Please do not change from showing the educational things. This is so needed. Im 56 and loved mini trucks sense my first one in 1984. 100 show placements . Have not touched a truck in 30 years. A lot has changed . Never welded a thing. We plan to show even at 56 and 58 years old you can start a new and have fun. I just want to thank you for being willing to teach . Not everyone can or will. May GOD richly bless you for doing this.

I have to say, I’ve built countless rear suspension setups and this video was amazing! Not sure there is a better way to break it down and explain it!

THANK YOU for this video. I have to go back and watch 1 and 2. My gfs and I are so lost on this custom build. It's just this one little pice of science... Amber and I along wit Rachel, handing us tools & supplies (& lunch!) took a 2001 Ford Ranger, tossed out the v6 motor and trans (after replacing 4 v6 sohc engines!!!), removed the front torsion bars and cut off their mounts, and now we threw a built fuel injected 302 and c6 trans in to the frame, converted the front suspension to coilovers instead of torsion bars and shocks, and now the rear is getting a triangulated 4 link and coilovers instead of leaf springs and shocks. But honestly I have never built a rear 4 link before and so just this video alone already helps me understand a little of the geometry!

First off, this is an excellent video, I love the model as well, that's awesome :) The big trap with a triangulated four link is the forces; the longer the four link upper bars the higher the forces, but the forces in a triangulated four link will never be as low as the forces in a Watt's link. In the case of the model you've presented I'd guess that the angle of the links is something in the order of 30 degrees off the vehicle axis. That means that the link forces will be approximately double those of the Watt's link. You'll end up with a higher risk of linkage collapse as well, because you've got a longer link than parallel four links, with the added forces associated with both the drive and longitudinal forces as well as the lateral force adder. This can substantially increase the chance of long column collapse. Additionally it'll put a lot higher loads on the chassis attachment points. It'll also potentially limit the life of the joints. IMO the best linkage setup for anyone who's not smashing it with a CAD or specific suspension design program is probably three link with watts or panhard bar... It's a lot more fault tolerant than other suspension designs for live axle. If you've got the knowledge to look at joint compliance for a four link, then a parallel four link is better, but without correct bush design it'll bind and can damage bushes or mechanically lock at certain positions. Triangulated four links will also create lateral axle movements, but this movement occurs when you lift a single wheel.

I’m rewatching this series before I start my 88 S10 4link setup. I love the way your mighty max is set up so I’m ordering a Thornros. Super lift triangulated 4link I want to use 30” bars for the least amount of pinion angle change. Love the videos! Keep em coming buddy!

Love the tech, illustrations and editing. Keep it coming!

bro you are clear and concise, great explanations and that model helps with it all. well though out and well delivered

Love these lessons as much as the builds. There's a lot of people in the mini truckin scene, new and old, that can benefit from knowing the basics. Build it right the first time.

A great help. I'm trying to build a rear end for a 1/25 scale nova. This was great especially the model to actually see close up

Great video! thank you! I have a pretty good background, you explained the intricate parts in a way that was easily understandable! The triangulated 4 link is the best rear setup! now I have to get busy!! I'm building an off road Jeep so I need more travel, hence the better geometry is even more important!

EXCEPTIONAL! JUST WHAT I WAS WANTING TO LEARN!!! I first found you when a client shared a video of the headboard you did where you used the black magic patina. They wanted me to use the same product on some table bases I was welding up for some wood tops they were building. Glad to see you again! Great content, editing, video/sound quality, all the things!!!

I learn a lot from you technically and theoretically. Endless thanks you are awesome

Really great overview. I watch a few off road fabrication channels, and they usually don't get anywhere near in-depth as you on this stuff. See lots of panhard bars too! (I'm surprised how many given these vehicles have a fair bit of travel.) One common upgrade to the high end builds is a triangulated 4 link. Now I understand why. I always thought it was just for more travel.

I'm so glad I found your channel on the tube. Sir, you are a very good teacher! Cheers & stay safe🙂

Awesome so informational I'm grateful for you educating me on this I think you saved me from making a huge mistake on my C10

This was easily one of the easiest to understand videos i’ve ever watched

What a fantastic vid/series. Great job.

Absolutely brilliant. Exactly what I needed to learn. Thanks!

Brilliant video, much appreciated. I am just about to start a 1950 Ford Prefect project, this vid has helped me decide on the triangulated 4 bar for my rear end - a shortened Volvo 244 live axle.

👍👍😎👍👍 - you make it easy to keep moving forward. This episode helped clarify a few things for me. Thank you

Man am watching this over and over and over again... am so glad I found your channel.. I need to start doing my own suspension work, am sick to my stomach on waiting for my trucks suspensions to get finished ( 3 trucks in 3 different shops) there is not a single responsible professional shop around every one is surviving taking half of the money from somebody to complete somebody else’s project and it’s the same BS all over.... am a pipe welder and can fabricate as well and finding the time is always been my biggest struggle...

you are the king of explanations. took your info to the rc cars world, I am very new to this. thank you

Thank-you 🤜🏾/l am researching the link process for my chevy S-10 and the youtube(Al) brought me to this video--so this video reads over a year ago and l want to be careful in saying you just invited us to10 years worth of knowledge in a 12:36 setting. So not to possibly start a comment war...and that's not even close enough-l will be going back to the start of your videos and thanks again. When l actually do start my s-10 build the 4-link will be my choice 💥💯

I've never modified a truck's suspension or ,what I'd really love to do, built one from scratch. But this is the sort of stuff that I love thinking through in my head. Imagining how to constrain movement in every direction except the one you want to maximize it in while keeping the design as light as possible. Looking forward to watching more the series.

Yup your saying it right and your awesome .. excellent content as usual keep up the best suspension channel on the internet PERIOD !!!

Don’t know how I stumbled across your channel but happy I’m here and a new subscriber!

Great video, excellent display models! Thanks for sharing and posting!

Very well explained... I really appreciate the way you explain.. Thank you..

Well done on the mini examples and explanations. I am happy RU-vid steered me your way. Keep it up! SUBSCRIBED.

just found your channel, watched the one on the Watts bar and subbed right after that.

Love your show it shares great knowledge.easy to understand

The model really helped me understand, great video

I'm really enjoying your content. In our town there are zero suspension specialists. Only OEM parts replacement "specialists"/"technicians". Your channel is guiding me through my 2, now forced, DIY projects. D21 Nissan & 521 Datsun. Thanks again from sunny 🇿🇦🇿🇦✌

I have watched several of your videos. I like them a lot. I am getting ready to install a 96 Cougar IRS into my "Project Boat Tail" Roadster on my channel. I will be recommending your videos on understanding suspension. You are doing a great job.

Excellent video bro. You are my Teacher of Suspension sciences.

Thanks for explaining that, keep them coming

Very good job explaining

GREAT VIDEO LOVE THE SOUND EFFECTS

I really like the triangulated four-link I installed on my S-10 Blazer Extreme, as it gave that little truck a road-racer feel - we're talking serious lateral Gs. Air Ride has a front suspension upgrade/mod that completely eliminates the bump-steer so inherent to that chassis and it drives like its on rails and puts a big cheeseburger grin on my face every time I go through some twisties on some random backroad. Driver bliss!

What a great series. I learned a ton.

So far you have made it simple to understand, What I want to see is left right wheel travel as in off road or even un even ground conditions. How far can your desk top model left tire lift and not twist the frame using a 4 bar set up? Most 4 bar set ups are for drag strips and level roads. Lets try for a 10 inch wheel travel design. Thanks.

This is awesome I need the video of you doing this on your mighty max

Fantastic model!

Love the episodes brother keep up the good mahi 🤙🏾🤙🏾🤙🏾🤙🏾

Dam superb job. Thank you professor. I know you had fun making that frame on a bench. Can't wait to see the front end.

well I just found one of my new favourite channels

You're such a good teacher

Dude !!! What a fantastic video!!! Im building a rat rod right now and I'm building the frame from scratch and was wondering what type of rear suspension to go with. I bought a book called chassis engineering and I still didn't understand it as well as your explanations in this video. Thank you !!

you're killing it!!!!

great explanation!

Good explanation! Subscribed.

Those Mighty Max were cool

Nicely done.

When I swapped from stock 4-link on my 94 ram cummins to radius arms on the front suspension. I did one side at a time and when I did it I adjusted the radius arm to match the angle maintained by the side that still had the 4 link installed. The angle was perfect and then did the same thing when changing the second side. I think it would work for installing the 4 link if you can maintain one side at a time, or at least get your angles before you disassemble.

Realmente muy buen video, excelente explicacion y saludo desde argentina

Another great video

Great video, very informative

I use all your tech to build killer model truck frames .for my builds I've built the 4 link 3link bar the watts link also looks killer at model car contest

Great video

just wondering how all of these would articulate, how these would function when one wheel is higher then the other with the frame level, thank you for this amazing video

Nice video, the little model was very cool. I built a wish bone style bar for my 56 Truck. I have a lot of travel so I thought this would work the best. And because I have a steep driveway. Panard bar was not going to work, and to be honest I didn't know about the Watts style then.

Great instructional video

I just found your channel. You do a great job of explaining suspension. I’ve only watched 2 videos so far.

Great job, keep it up!!

spot on! great info!

Amazing. Your channel is going to explode

I've been watching your link geometry videos so far and I love them! Thank you so much! My only question is what determines the length of the lower link to start basing everything else off of? Maybe you'll discuss this in a future video?

New subscriber right here! Good stuff

Awesome video man

Thanks for keeping it simple and short. I loose interest after :15 minutes of most videos. Great job.

Awesome. I have a triangulated 4 link setup but the triangle is anchored to the shopping cart handle at the centerpoint. I'm sure the theory is the same. Can you cover an anti-sway bar at some point. Awesome everything on these videos!

I like these videos keep them coming.

Nice informative video, thanks 👍

Amazing video. I ha e searched countless hours trying to learn about suspensions for pro- touring and Autocross trying to decide the. Best style of suspension to run and I've been spinning my wheels before finding ur videos. I have seen some pro-touring built chassis with torque arms. I'm running a 2dr 01 Blazer. Which do u think would. E better for pro-touring? Torque arm, triangulated 4 link, 3 link, parallel 4 link? It would be cool to see you do a video explaining the difference between pros and cons of a Torque arm and triangulated 4 link and a 3 link. Thanks for everything you do. My new favorite channel

Great video.

I love your videos! I found them a few weeks ago, when trying to figure out what a pan hard bar was. Yesterday I bought a 69 c10 to bag thanks to you lol. You made things really easy to understand! One question that never got answered in this video it why you’re switching to the parallel with the watts link from the triangulated 4-link. Is it easier to set up or is it a clearance thing? I would be very interested in a video on setting up the triangulated 4-link especially after seeing your video on the u-joint oscillations. Anyway thanks again. You definitely deserve the sub. Hope many many more are to follow!

I knew I was right! Nobody in my searches ever addresses what seems to be the norm in all triangulated kits, that the top bars are tooooo short ( even before considering the angle). Now I just need to find a kit with proper length bars.

Excellent! I think. Your little model set up in the last configuration i believe is what i am looking for. I have a 2016 yukon that i am going to lift. I want to keep the bottom links straight and possibly longer if needed. The uppers i want to triangulate. Do away with the panhard bar. Thank you sir

Mükemmel görsel ve en iyi anlatım teşekkürler efendim.

The entire reason I found you was because of the old sbc ram 50 these are great

Very well explained your video I will make it in my c10 In this way thanks for making a thumbnail I am Brazilian I don't speak English But I managed to understand well

Thx for the info It really helped me 🤙🤙

I'm running through the basics play list and hope you address why you chose what you did over what was already in the truck.

Thanks for the info!

Very well said sir....

Great instructional videos. Well done, but I have questionS; I’m restoring a ‘53 International Harvester panel truck which we discussed in the past and I'm considering

Can you explain more on the upper and lower axis for the triangulated 4 link on how to figure that. I’m about to build one on a 50 ford with airbags. Thanks any help is appreciated love your videos.

Very informative nice 👍 job

So can you do a video on the 97 Chevy Extreme. They have a unique setup and maybe you can explain how they work. I have a chassis like that that I’m swapping a 49 GMC onto. Cheers man, very informative thanks

STRAIGHT banga ass video man. That model setup up. The "thumbs down" you're getting are from people who thought an ap would tell em how to setup a rear suspension. Stay up