so moral of the story is camber adjustments look for struts or upper/lower controlling arms for the fronts and for backs also check lateral links. For toe settings look for tie rod nut. For castor i would imagine the main place is upper mounting bolts of the strut to body or some place that allows the strut to re-position its angle... which the only place i can think of is on the top of the strut mount or modifying the body or some kind of spacers on the mounting bolts. I would think to some extent adjusting camber on a strut would also adjust the caster setting a little bit if the strut itself moves... however if it is on the lower or upper controlling arms or lateral links the strut would not move with the camber adjustment
What would I need to do to my rear wheel car to give it a zero scrub radius if it has a 8mm positive scrub radius? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
sir, i have sedan hyundai accent diesel 2010 model, my common problem is shock abs bounce was sometime bad especially in humps and rough road, i realized in your video it is caused by the caster as it is not adjustable according to all technicians. All my tie rods were always getting worn in just three months. but why my front tires both sides inner and outside edge were getting worn? only the middle of the tire remain good
How would caster be fixed on a 2010 Lexus es 350? Dealership already told me they are going to help me. But not sure if this car has adjustable caster . I just hope they are able to fix my issue caster makes my car feel really insteady at the wheel
And the use of shims haven't seen those only the cam bolts/cam circular/square bolts on a car but i can see a simple piece of sheet metal thick enough with the proper hole/bolt size drilled into it could be used to adjust camber , toe , or maybe even caster in certain cases
O camber is adjusted on either the strut bolts usually but front wheel drive cars don't normally have it adjustable (if in rare cases it is adjustable it would be on the upper strut mounts but i have seen an aftermarket parts video that replace it on the strut lower 2 bolts instead of the strut mounting bolts as well. So for camber in front look for the struts or the upper /lower controlling arms ... for camber in back look for lateral links cam bolts or strut bolts for camber adjustment (maybe if equipped a lower/upper control arm as well)... That is my places to look for camber settings bolts so far
+Paonai Saelee could be your front brake calipers. i would jack the truck up and wiggle the tire back and forth, if it clunks around it could be your wheel bearings and tie rod ends. take a bar and put it under the tire and try to push up, have someone watch the ball joints for movement. after that, take the tire off. take off your calipers and pads examine the caliper for any leaking fluid from the seals. examine the pads for excessive wear. while its off take a look at all your ball joints. if they are badly frayed and worn i would just change them. its recommended to change all of them at once and getting a front end alignment done as well. if it isnt your brake calipers, it could be your tie rod ends. that being the case you may want to be careful as the tire has the hub can slip off the ball joint and your tire will turn all the way in one direction. if you are at highway speeds it will rip your tire right off. good luck
Exellent basic instructional video. My problem is, after turning a corner or going through a sharp curve in the road, the vehicle continues pulling gently in the direction of the turn I just made even after the turn is completed and the steering wheel is dead center. This happens on both right and left turns. I have to over-compensate by jerking the wheel past dead center to get it going perfectly straight, and as long as I'm going straight there is no side pull whatsoever. Could it be "caster?"
This is great! I wish someone would do a video on how to setup a car for rfactor, gt legends gtr2, etc. I have no idea how to makes the correct changes. I have racing sims since the atari 2600 days with those early games with no way to make changes. I learned quite a bit with this one 5 minute video! Thank you!
I am wondering if anyone can tell me how many degrees of negative camber I have on each side for my front two 19" wheels? I have minus 20 minutes on the left side and minus 28 minutes on the right side. I don't know how to convert this to degrees. Best regards
if your car as macpherson struts in the front, the upper bearings may begin to seize, so that the spring pulls your steering for as long as the bearing didn't worked his way to the center.
the reason for your tire ware is due to under inflation witch could also have more stress to your tie rods and other parts due to trying to turn a tire that is roling on its self. just like us trying to push a wheel on its side compared to up right. on that car try and set your pressures at 34 to 37 and that should help and still not kick on your tire light.
All of your angles are gonna change if you lower/lift your vehicle....so keep that in mind people that in order to compensate for the sudden changes and problems that you will need adjusting kits.
Missing alot of information in the video like with a front wheel drive vehicle toe under acceleration will be forced + while under braking = - Most vehicle do not have adjustable components except toe and manufacture settings for toe are usually positive about 1.5mm
Why don't you apply it on your cars then? I don't think you're all hillbilly nascar lovers, but handling is more something we Europeans are good at. anyway ;) another question, dominating on the track? where? In Formula 1? No.. in Rally? No.. Ken block sucks balls, he kan doe nice drifts and donuts 'n shit, but he's not a rally driver he's a show-off.
