I've been putting off this project way too long: It's time to replace the tired CLUTCH in my own 2002 Suzuki XL-7 4x4! Step 1: Remove the transmission... Enjoy the struggle! Ivan
*When using a floor jack, I always use an appropriate sized* *square of 1/2" plywood between the lift and what's lifted.* *Both side's irregularities actually bite into the wood where* *they need to, and the platform also steadies your part.* *For everyone else- never cup a jack onto a thread Boss as a lifting point-* *it can snap off very easily.* *The clutch lever pivot ball is hardened; but, over time, they will wear into* *a can opener blade, and poke through. A new pivot is cheap & easy to change,* *so it won't ruin the new lever. "Extra" grease will not remedy this.* *You've done an excellent job here.*
My 2002 xl7 clutch fork punched all the way threw (198,000 miles) at the pivot. Mine was starting to have trouble disengaging/engaging in reverse for awhile. I ignored it ...til it bit me ..stranded. Nobody/transmission shops believed what I thought it was when it happen. So I did the job myself also considering I just paid some trans shop 18 months prior for a new clutch. It wasn't too bad except the y pipe. I chipped my front tooth getting it out(800 dentist bill- crap there went my savings). By the way the shop that did the work prior left out a 4 bolts(1 was a starter) and I believe the issue was the same thing then. From then on I feel better doing my own work. Current mileage 238,000
TIP: If you have a punched out clutch fork, put a bolt though the hole of the punched out clutch fork, with the bolt head facing the slave cylinder nipple and a nut on the back. No tranny drop required :D I did this on my Isuzu Trooper and it got me by for several years before the clutch truly needed replacement and I put a new clutch fork in then. Isuzu Troopers have this problem too. I wonder if Isuzu's are same components or same OEM as Suzuki's.
I've done several Suzuki clutches over the years but never a XL7. I have done a few vitaras and I personally had an X-90 for several years. Good choice on the B/A clutch. I've used theirs on every one I've done and have always been pleased. Good choice on replacing the shift fork as well. Honestly I recommend replacing the master and slave cylinder at the same time. They're not expensive and they always eventually go bad and start leaking. I rebuilt the gearbox in my X-90 and to date it was the easiest manual transmission rebuild I've EVER done. No kidding once I had it out I had it fully rebuilt with new bearings, seals, and syncros in about 45 minutes.
Those NTN bearings are very good quality, you'll find them on just about everything OEM Honda, even my Honda motorcycle uses NTN wheel and steering head bearings.
Been working on one of these for years now. Auto.trans. Mainly maintenance..Has 390,000 miles still going..at 303,000.replaced the fuel pump...The vehicle is a mail delivery rig and drives around 85 to 105 miles 6 days a week.. tks.for videos
Same here Ivan. My girlfriend (wife) and I with some friends went offroading in our 1993 Toyota 4x4 p/u back in 1993 and the mud is still on some places.
My last "on the ground" engine swap was back in 2012. No creeper - just sliding in and out under the truck, outside in the driveway. Don't think I have it in me to do that again! HUGE respect from me, watching you do this tranny/transfer case removal. I could probably physically do it ... but probably not mentally, lol. My tolerance for stress drops by the month these days. Nice work, brother! The PHAD marathon continues. On to part 2! 👍🍻
This brings back some memories, did it once with regular floor jacks, rented a transmission jack a couple of times, after that used a lift, ah good times
I agree, you should have a dust boot on the release fork. Don't forget to grease the pivot the fork rides on. Also you should put in the new pilot bearing & rear main seal while you can easily get to them. Check the flywheel for burns or scoring, as it may need to be resurfaced. And you should consider overhauling the slave and master cylinders for the clutch. Not costly and it probably needs it.
Sorry didn't see your post... was on my phone (small screen)...totally agree too much work already to avoid it..it IS going to go bad soon..i deleted..my comment
Sorta the story with my car, I think the clutch disc has a piece busted off... It was occasionally bouncing around and getting stuck (you could feel when it hit the clutch disk and grabbed suddenly out of no where) but it has stopped a while ago. I have been babying the clutch for a few k, but I need to do it eventually... It's been warning me! And my truck has the stock 270k mi clutch, I'd like to replace that one to get a nice pedal feel, but I don't want to deal with the rust.
Heya Ivan, by adjusting the clutch pedal pushrod too far you can create problems, the master cylinder piston needs to be able to return back to it's disengaged position so the pressure relief port becomes uncovered and pressure between the master and slave is released. If you adjust the free play out of the pushrod, the system will hold pressure and gradually engage the release bearing and cause the clutch to slip. Make sure you have the specified pedal free play and pedal height with your new clutch mate.
You are a wizard with the floor jacks Ivan. When i do clutches i just prefer to man handle the gearboxes in and out but holy shit, you would never man handle that mess in your Suzuki out! It must weigh 200KG. As much as working on the floor might suck, i think working on the floor is better for your back, neck and shoulders. Working on a lift often means contorting your neck and arms into some odd positions.
I had to replace the clutch pressure plate and throw out bearing in my 98 Off road Ranger. Fun fun taking all the skid plates off, drive shafts, etc. and wouldn’t ya know Ford in its infinite wisdom put its slave cylinder inside the trans. On the input shaft. I had to do mine like yours. Had to put the truck in the air on jack stands. Saved the big bucks working on my own vehicles.
a problem i found with my suzuki xl7 when i bought it recently was the actual 160mm long bolt holding clutch and brake levers was bent therefore it wasn't disengaging the clutch properly leading to it starting to slip, i fixed this by putting i high tensile bolt in, it aligned all the pedals and rods properly allowing full travel again but I'll still need to put a clutch in but i got the car real cheap amd i really like it for the room and its 110" wheelbase
That looks like a big chunky bell housing and gearbox :-) The trolley jacks just made that drop so much easyer, we don't always appreciate our tools but those jacks work so well :-D. Yep the fork/lever must be worn on the pivot, the thrust bearing must be very ill also. If the mud is bone dry, then spray your old engine oil everywhere, it's a good use for it :-D.
Guy I worked with was doing this in his workshop which set away from his house and the trans dropped on his hand. No one checked on him for almost three hours and he nearly lost the hand. Be careful folks!
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics/when it fell the pain caused him to faint and when he came to the pain every time he moved would make him sick. He laid there and screamed for help till he lost his voice. His wide came in finally to check on him and called 911!😳
"Heavy line work" ! Not so easy without a lift. We ought to get you a shop building made up where you park the cars with 12 foot header garage doors and a lift ! Seems like the clutch release fork is beyond it's use limits and the throw out bearing is dry of any grease, worn out. It also doesn't seem to travel over the center shaft sleeve very smooth so that need cleaned off really well as the new release bearing gets packed with grease in those grooves. Since it was driven in the mud bath, it would seem fair to replace the pilot bearing with a Japanese make too since the throw out bearing is dried out and rough, the pilot bearing likely is especially since it turns all the time. That mud bath is as you say, not good period.
That exhaust, unless it is aftermarket, is likely the same material. The problem is heat and vibration. Stainless steel will lose some of its properties when exposed to heat which is why weld seams will rust. At the Y and catalytic converter is going.to be the hottest part of the exhaust. You also have issues of it running lean and rich in different states of disrepair. (You have to know some is wrong in order to fix something that is wrong). But your motor and converter flanges will see the most vibration from the engine. This flexes and fatigues the metal a bit. Put it all together and you can see why one will wear faster that the rest of the exhaust.
Did I miss the diagnosis video? Beck Arnley are great manufacturer and or reboxer. I bought a bosch purge valve the other day for a car lot car that actually had a Bosch part in it. Literally though that pilot and throwout bearing should be replaced on a clutch service. Personally id trust the bearings that came in a kit.
That's a rugged built SUV, no wonder you like it. I wasn't familiar so I Wiki'd it, sounds like the 2nd generation they turned it in to a soccer mom ride.
I use 2 studs kitty.corner..on engine cut a slot in them with a 3" cutoff wheel and bevel on grinder..makes install a breeze..Just take screwdriver to remove...
Hi great work. I have the same vehicle but I believe my shifter that connects to gear box is issue because it only has a reverse problem. Anyway recommendations on what to change?
Ivan you should invest on a mid lift that can lift up to 6000 lbs and rise to about 54 inches they are not that much and would make your work on cars much easier
on a hydraulic clutch setup, you pretty much never adjust anything, except for flushing the fluid and bleeding the air back out. if anything changes in the feel or travel, 99% chance the clutch/pressure plate/bearing or is having a mechanical failure. if it was a cylinder(master/slave) it would have bleed off and take off by itself with pedal pushed or not disengage fully and have a very soft throw.
Hmmm...guess I would have never considered a Suzuki SUV back in that cars vintage but it looks surprisingly decent in build quality. Especially from being in salty winters.
They are a tough little truck. The earlier ones like the Samurai and the "Geo" Tracker (aka Suzuki Sidekick) are highly sought after out west as trail vehicles. They are off road beasts when put together right. Smaller and lighter than anything but the early Jeep CJs.
Those are great cars. Had a 2002. Sold it at 107K 8 years ago. Still running strong. Only issue with 80% of those is the A/C compressors seize between 50-100K. Yours take a shit yet?
Hi. What engine was this? I am really thankful for this, makes it easier for me to see how to do things when swapping my own clutch in my 98 vitara td. Mine has the same transmission, but a slightly different bell housing.
With 160K miles on the vehicle I suggest putting in a new slave cylinder and fluid line as well. As long as you're there maybe the master cylinder too.
Ivan ,i was wondering about the Trans clutch lever boot and lower trans case round plug,also the two air vents on top of the trans case....It appears that mud can make it's way to the clutch by the simple fact it's not a totally sealed unit.i would think off roading you would want to stop any mud from ingress to the clutch plate etc. am i wrong? thanks
I agree, my land rover bell housing was totally sealed except for a drain plug in the tool kit that you fitted for deep wading same deal with the timing belt case as well
Did you ever use (Free All) rust deep penetrating oil? I found it watching another RU-vidrs that was working on a very rusty VW van she was getting very rusted bolts loose with it so I went and bought a can! I am amazed!
My clutch went out of nowhere (I'm a truck driver so i probably am not the best judge) The shop i contracted (Goodyear surprise) Keeps telling me " should be this afternoon" ..
Добрый день, Иван! Вы полны энергии - это великолепно! Здесь в России, многие ремонтируют автомобили сами, пользуясь смотровой ямой. Вам известно о смотровой яме? Если ваш дом построен на сухой почве, то это будет дешевое решение. Иван, скажите пожалуйста, какая модель двигателя на Вашей XL-7? Наверное, H27A? Смотрю с интересом! Денис.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Спасибо за ответ, Иван! У меня есть такой же автомобиль, и проблема. В России, таких автомобилей мало. В моем городе, вообще нет. Можно нам поговорить, например по e-mail, или Skype? Заранее спасибо, Денис!
Do you plan on doing anything with the Flywheel surface? I know on Class 8 Trucks when doing a clutch job it is always good habit to re grind the face..
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics I like to break the glaze off with and orbital sander. Is it necessary? I think in a smaller vehicle it’ll work either way.
Heya buddy, any tips on how to bleed the soft clutch pedal into normal operation? I am doing something wrong and just can't get it to not be soft anymore.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics yessir, did this same job but didn't use nice new parts like you did, used janky old parts. If the slave is moving does that mean it's primed and the problem is a shitty rusty throwout bearing and a nasty broken clutch fork not moving properly? I ordered a clutch kit and a throw out bearing but hoping its just something wrong with the prime.
OK I have been watching your videos frequently I need to say if you’re going to use visual aids in your explanation put some light on the subject you’ve been doing this a long time come on man
