Suzuki Intruder Volusia VL800 - Maintenance workshop part #3 - disassembly 

Thank you very much!

Awesome. Have fun and let me know how you get on.

It went really well, had to replace spark plugs. The manual has a very basic overview, your tips made it to where I didn’t have small unexpected hang ups such as plugging the fuel line. I didn’t have an ear plug but a tightly rolled piece of tissue did the trick. Got it back together and running great with no problem. Thanks again!

@@jvalusmc0331 Awesome stuff! All the best.

You're very welcome. I'm happy it helps people maintain their bikes :)

Maraggie. good video I am trying to get the hub on left side off the bike and can't seem to get it seperated from driveshaft it seems loose but won't come apart. in your video you take off the back wheel but I don't see you take hub out on video. suggestions

Hello. Indeed I took the hub off without recording it for some reason. Can't remember now :/ It's just three bolts that hold it in place. If you have removed the bolts then just give it a tap as it's most likely holding itself on a gasket/seal. It might be also, if you're unfortunate and got water inside the shaft, that you got some corrosion holding it although I doubt it. Have a look at part 7 of the series..that's where I talk bout the shaft, hub and I'm installing it back.

Maraggie thanks man it wants to come off amd seems like it's cailught on something. I was thinking I was missing something. it's moves back and forth and just won't come out. is there a clip or anything or do I have to let go the driveshaft from the other end also.

There's nothing at the engine side of shaft that would hold it in place...it's just a u-joint into which the shaft slides in. How much movement you're getting? Shaft itself moves in and out a bit from the hub itself if I remember correctly so it might be fooling you a bit.

Hi. Mostly ebay but also WeMoto and Fowlers.

Hello David. You're very welcome. I'm glad these videos are still helping people. Regarding coolant, I'm afraid I have not covered that in any of my videos. It's fairly simple though. All that needs to happen is a) slide your petrol tank back to get access to the coolant cap. Undo it. b) have a look underneath the radiator on the left side and undo the hose to drain the system. Once empty, connect the hose back up. c) fill up with fresh coolant. take it slow, allowing air to bubble up. once you start seeing the coolant at the bottom of the inlet, swing your bike left and right a bit to allow for air pockets to come up. Keep topping up until the level doesn't drop anymore. d) start the engine with cap off to bleed the air completely. (just to get the coolant moved through the system). e) once happy, secure the radiator cap. f) it'll take few cycles of warming the bike up and letting it cool down. (simply go for a short ride). Once the bike is cooled down, top up the coolant but not from the top but to reservoir at the left side of your engine (it's underneath rear chrome cover). That should sort it for you bud.

Hi Mark. Well done on taking the step towards maintaining your bike. I don't think I've recorded the actual disassembly of the shaft drive (it's just few bolts if I remember correctly) but I do talk about the maintenance and I'm reinstalling it in part 7.

@@Maraggie Finally got time to get the driveshaft off and frustrating it all looks good. The spines all appear as new and look nice and clean (no crap to imply anything it connects to is knackered), it's lightly greased (will regrease) and when I spin the shaft, the final drive spins ok. So maybe my lack of drive wasn't the drive shaft / final drive?? Do you know what else could cause complete lack of drive to the rear wheel? Could it be the clutch? When I change gear the gears appear to change, hence me ruling that out. Arghhh. Loving these vids but could do with an index so I know what is covered in each lol

@@markray7189 Hi Mark. Good news on the shaft then. If the shaft turns the final bevel gears then you need to look towards engine. Shaft connects to secondary bevel gearing - something I never had to take apart. If the top of the shaft is not knackered (I remember it's fiddly to put it back in so it meshes with the pivot joint) then further up you go the bevel gears that could potentially be knackered... but it's such an intricate and enclosed thing that if it were broken you'd likely hear grinding, rattling etc. So with that in mind, I'd check the clutch plates if they're slipping. They would have to be really bad to slip completely (otherwise it would still pull a bit). And that's not something that just happens... it would be slipping periodically over time and you'd notice. Ping me an email (mine's in "About" section) and I'll send you workshop manual regarding the drive so you'll have a look at how it's all joined up.

@@Maraggie Cheers. I looked in the 'About' section and can't see any email address, only a link to your RU-vid profile home page 😖

You're welcome mate. Handlebars were nothing special, I think 16", 3/4" thick. I drilled them out where switchgear is and at the bottom and I wired everything internally. Clutch and throttle cable I did myself. I bought two kits that you cut to size. I'm sure there's plenty available on ebay.

Hi mate. None I think. I got a separate video on taking the carb apart, have a browse on my channel. I did it a bit earlier than the whole maintenance series.

Hello. It was either from "Highway Hawk" or "Show Chrome" companies. Just google for "vl800 chrome front caliper cover" There are few to choose from.

Hi. I have heard you can do as wide as 200 if you take the chrome cover off from shaft but I would not recommend it. Slim rims. I never increased the size of mine if I remember correctly.

Hello. I'm not sure I understand. What do you mean by "landing gear"?