Suzuki VZR1800 M109R oil and filter change. We also fix the front brake lever's rough movement when applying the brakes. We'll run the engine for 15 minutes and then let set for three minutes before checking the oil.
when I start the my 2012 model m109r, the sound of rattling noise comes from the side of the clutch and as soon as you press the clutch lever, the sound stops what is the problem of the thing please help me
I heard somewhere that when you change the oil on this you also have to hold in the clutch when starting her up again for like 5 minutes. Do you happen to know anything about it? I just a bought a bike like this 5 months ago! Love it.
No, that is not necessary. When you change the oil you need to let it idle for 15 minutes and then set engine off for 3 minutes to get an accurate oil fill reading. Nothing to do with the clutch. Please make sure your bike has more than the average bike for clutch cable free play. The should be at least half an inch free play. I have seen clutches wear out prematurely due to not enough clutch cable free play.
@@RaymoreRepair No, you don't need to let it run more than a few minutes to make sure you aren't seeping at the crush washers. If you run the bike to warm it up and drop the oil, you are putting in 3.8qts with the filter. No need to check it as you know that is the correct amount. Good video by the way.
PROPER M109R OIL CHECK PROCEDURE FROM 2020 MANUAL: 1. Place on side stand 2. Idle for 15min, engines speed must be at idle speed, engine must be warmed up 3. Hold bike vertically at idle for 30sec, then back on side stand for 10 sec 4. Stop engine and wait 3min 5. Remove oil dipstick and clean 6. Hold bike vertically and insert dipstick but don't screw it back in, inspect oil level. As long as above Low line all good, if not add oil till midpoint between L and F I might have paraphrased... I put a note in my phone so I wouldn't have to find the manual every time or try and remember all that.
for the record, the suzuki branded oil and filter are NOT required. I've been using K&N or HIFLO without issues. For oil, I used whatever full synthetic 10w40 I can find that's reasonably priced.
You are correct. The OEM parts are not required, however I do prefer to use the OEM parts whenever possible. If you watch my other videos I use aftermarket parts in several of those. Usually it is a cost issue. I work on a lot of older machines and some of them just don't have a lot of life left in them regardless of the parts used. By the way I would go K&N over hiflo. Thank you for watching.
I'm baffled at needing to run the bike for 15min before checking oil level. Why is that the procedure because it doesn't take long at all for the oil to cycle through the engine?
It is about the temperature of the oil and expansion. Not all dry sump engines need to run this long. Yamaha makes a V twin that does and so does this one. It has to do with the size of the reservoir at the proper oil level. If the portion of the oil reservoir where you check the oil level is smaller than the rest of the tank then the expansion form heating the oil makes a greater difference. Thank you for watching.
You didn’t say when you add the drain plug what is the specs to torque. Also show you actually removing the drain plug and filter as a demonstration. More then likely people watching this channel would have actually like to see you remove the drain plug and oils filter and also put in on rather then the after effects
