If I could.....I'd give you a huge hug right about now ‼️‼️‼️‼️. I've been divorced for nearly 5 years and I'm convinced with the help of yourself and RU-vid this old (59) year old woman can fix just about anything. Thank you 😊
I have learned that you don't need to fold larger pads, if you put the four edges in you can push of manipulate the material towards the center, it moves freely and then you end up with a thicker even pad.
In more than likely you will end up with leaks possibly even water being sucked into the squirrel cage this comes from experience from doing thousands of swamp coolers
Rosalie Sanford there really isn’t much to a swamp cooler. Be sure and unplug it from electricity before doing maintenance. Clean it very well after the season is over. Especially the water pump. Be sure the water is out of the pump and I lightly oil the shaft. Otherwise you will have to buy a new pump every year. 30 or 40 dollars that could have been saved. Hope this helps.
You want to get all the calcium build up off before you but the aspen pads on. That build-up helps mold and other yucky things to grow and make you sick.
I always take my garden hose and WASH out the pan, fill it, turn on the pump, THEN snake out the water lines so anything that breaking lose is immediately flushed out, instead of shoving it into the center of the spider assembly. I also spray out the pad frame with water, before installing the pads. Also input a new pump strainer that the pump sits in.
Since my unit is a roof mounted down draft, you will not catch me on the roof 'every few weeks' routing the distributer lines 😁! That said, only once did I have a problem with clogged distributor (sometimes aka 'spider') caused by aspen fibers getting sucked up by the pump. Solution: make sure the screen on the pump or basket is in good condition.
Subscribed, that was an excellent video, I had no idea it was so simple to change the belt, thank you so much. Can you explain or make a video on how you hooked up your piping from the drain to save the dump water and also how you restrict the amount that is getting dumped daily. I'm in California and I can reuse it in the garden.
thanks,, more info than most vids give.. one thing you didn't cover is tightening the wheel bolt,, which is what I'm specifically looking for having never done it,, and my swamp cooler womps off kilter just a little so I'm told to tighten the wheel bolt.. but no one shows me what and how...
I live in Colorado and it's been pretty hot lately. (96F-100F) I turned on my swamp cooler about 3 weeks ago and at first the air coming out seemed a lot colder than it does in the last few days. I verified my distributors have even water flow. The top of each swamp cooler door has no blockages and the water is getting to the pads. The water in the reservoir seems cool to the touch but my house is just hot :( Any other tips that you might know of would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your video!
There are a few things that can cause that if you have over 20% humidity. Or if your pad or media needs to be replaced. On average you can call 20 to 30 degrees below the outside temperature if you do not have humidity.
Honestly Colorado isn't as dry as people make it out to be. At least nowadays. I feel like more days than not my swamp cooler isnt efficient at all and the humiditys above 20% most days in summer. I wouldn't recommend swamp coolers unless you live in Arizona or something tbh. Especially if it doesn't even help you on the hottest of days then whats the point...
Any tips if the screw to adjust the best tension rusts out? Is that something that has to be drilled out or can you just screw another bolt in there and tighten it down to keep proper tension?
Yes you could drill it out. You can replace it with another bolt. Or you could even get the attention adjusted and screw it down with the self tapping bolt.
Swamp coolers are always dirty and gross, there is no easy way to clean them, my Champion evaporative cooler is a pile of rust, every season I damn near half replace every part on this unit, I'm thinking a stainless steel or plastic unit might be a better choice.
@@boogity66 Thanks for the reply. I'll look online again, but can't find anything like that by searching for auger or snake. Just the big stuff comes up. I'll also check at Home Depot on the next visit.
Depends a lot on the humidity. I have experienced as much as 30 degree drop at 115. However, on the 2 days a year when the humidity blows in along with the heat, best close the windows in the morning and make do with an indoor fan or 2!
Jo M. My cooler is 30 years old, and definitely has signs of rust and peeling paint in the pan and on the louvered vanes on the sides. I'm wondering if it's worth the effort to scrape, prime, and repaint the insides, or just buy a new one. It still works well enough, and I do double the Aspen media, which keeps our house at 70 degrees in 100 degree weather. I just added a whole house fan in the Attic, which will allow me to pull cool, dry air into the house and Attic at night. I hope this will help prevent the house from slowly absorbing moisture all summer which causes or doors to swell and not close properly. Plus it should keep the Attic cooler.
@@privateuploads-geo2625 I just had the same decision to make as yourself. After seeing prices in the +800. range my decision was easy. Everything on the cooler worked great except the panels were rusted out, so I decided to just replace those and found the exact match in Phoenix and had all 3 sent out @ $59./ each plus $50 shipping. All total $230 and my cooler looks and works like new. They even installed 3 nice thick pads better than I've ever had at no extra cost. That's what I did, it depends on the total condition of the whole cooler. Good luck and don't forget the bleed off line.
Jo M. Actually yours looks like the same model as mine..It still works well 🥶☺️. I'll probably use it this season and de-rust and repaint the interior at end of season. It's on my roof so it's a bit more challenging to work on but still doable. The worst parts are the wire braces holding the media in place.
Can anybody tell me the easiest way to change the bearing on the side without the pulley system? I have everything apart, I just cantget the bearing off? If anybody can help that would be fantastic. Thank you!
Thanks for the video. I'm in New Mexico and the 20+ years I've lived here I've never seen someone use a drain tube (irrigation) to get water out while it is running. What is the purpose? Is it absolutely necessary? Thanks for your help.
OlliMsa drawing off some of the water from the circulation reduces the amount of solids that would build up in the cooler and foul the pads, pump, and structure of the cooler. If your water supply is really clean no worries but if your water contains lots of minerals a "bleed off" may be a huge benefit. I hope this helps.
