A lot of comments regarding losing torque because Mat used the 1800 RPM motor instead of the 3600 RPM motor. I've done the math and the math proves that the speed and torque at the cutting head is the same no matter which 5 HP motor you use. I've simplified things just a little by using a 1:2 pulley ratio for the 1800 RPM motor and a 1:1 pulley ratio for a 3600 RPM motor, both resulting in 3600 RPM at the cutter. Notice from the math below that with either motor the cutting head speed and torque are identical. This is because the 5 HP, 1800 RPM motor produces twice the torque compared to the 5 HP, 3600 RPM motor. The formula for torque for a given HP is Torque=(HPx5252)/RPM. By the time you get to the cutting head, the torque and RPM are the same. 5 HP, 1800 rpm Motor: Torque at motor shaft: Torque=(HPx5252)/RPM Torque at motor shaft = (5 HP x 5252)/1800 RPM Torque at motor shaft = 14.6 Ft-lbs Ratio: 1:2 **RPM at cutter = 1800 motor RPM x ratio = 3600 RPM **Torque at cutter = 14.6 Ft-lbs / ratio = 7.3 ft-lbs 5 HP, 3600 rpm Motor: Torque at motor shaft: Torque=(HPx5252)/RPM Torque at motor shaft = (5 HP x 5252)/3600 RPM Torque at motor shaft = 7.3 Ft-lbs Ratio: 1:1 **RPM at cutter = 3600 motor RPM x ratio = 3600 RPM **Torque at cutter = 7.3 Ft-lbs / ratio = 7.3 ft-lbs
So, the 5 hp motor designed to operate at 1800 rpm ended up (on paper) as zero net gain over the 3 hp motor but the 3 hp motor when in good operating condition. A free 5hp motor designed to operate at 3600 rpm would have provided double the torque in a dream world because the pulleys on the motor and cutter could have been sized to provide a 1:1 ratio. I’d have done the same thing. Free beats buying a new motor every time.
@@karll.masoner6918 I think you misunderstood Matt in the video. With the old motor, once he switch to the carbide cutting head, he could no longer cut 3/16" per pass like he could with the straight bladed head (carbide head requires more power) . Now that he has the 5 HP motor on there, he can cut 3/16" per pass with the carbide head. So the 3 HP could not cut 3/16" per pass, and the 5 HP can.
One of the reasons I like Matt and his channel so much is that he’s not afraid to tackle any problem or skill, be it woodworking, carpentry, mechanical, electrical, flooring/tile, using light to medium heavy machinery, etc. You name it, and Matt has the Nads to tackle it. 👍👍
As a kid back in the 70's, I worked at a shop that made massive custom wood doors, tables, parts for yachts, you name it. If it was too big for anyone else, we did it. The shop had a 50" in the clear double sided thickness planer with shaping blades. Solid cast made by a T-rex or something. Mounted to what looked like ten coil springs from a one ton truck to the floor. It was well balanced but when it fired up it felt like the building moved. It would probably cost a million bucks to have one made today. Two weeks on the job I was watching a guy with years of working at that shop. One second he had two arms, the next he only had one. Ripped clean from the shoulder. Not near as much blood as you would think there would be. Poor SOB never passed out. I said screw it and went into AC/H&V. Aw the good ole days.
But it brings it to a desired thickness, so there’s that argument. Since I have never heard anyone describe the thin-ness of a board… 😎 Language is fun!
Matt, sorry it was so hard for you, but I have to admit that I love the gritty reality of your "Oops! It doesn't fit!" Seriously, real world projects of this sort ALWAYS have surprises and watching you work through your surprises is both educational and reassuring. "It's not just me!" Right?
Great job. Love the new paint color and especially the labeling and the 5HP, you don’t want to do all that work and not let everyone know it’s a five HP motor!!😊
I would recommend when doing it this type of repair, would be to check the rpm at the drive pulley. That way you can verify your getting 5000 RPM. They sell those meters everywhere and are simple to use.
When you change the pulley on the motor, did you go with a pulley that was twice? The diameter are twice the circumference. Another reason to check for 5000 RPM at cutterhead.
I've worked a thousand places in my life and been around those same motors my entire life and this is the only time anybody's ever showed me how they worked
I had a similar problem with motor height. I made a right angle mount, 2 x 1/4" plates and 2 triangular end buttresses, with the motor mounted sideways on the vertical plane. Much easier to mount that way. Instead of standard "v belts", I switched to the "link belts" from Lee Valley. Better power transmission, quieter and easily adjustable if you ever need to have different belt lengths.
Personally, I like that red much better than the original green. The motor swap should also make a huge difference in the power consumption as well. Very educational and entertaining.
I have a 20" Powermatic with a 6" Byrd head and it needs every bit of the 10HP I have to do a 1/4" cut My 24" has 15HP and it eats wood like butter. Same color as me 24". Good job.
Matt, another great video. Love the new red color for the new updated planer, I enjoyed the details on your changes made to fix it. I approve of your matching sneakers too. Being a women, I see you don't have many of us fascinated with machines like this, and commenting. On your sawmilling yes. I got to learn about the planer and use it when helping to make cabinets and furniture, flooring. I love working with wood. Recently spent 6 hours helping my friend sawing slabs on his newly built sawmill. A outdoor kitchen is the project now for his Beautiful pagoda. Thanks again for an interestng hour. Look forward to next videos.
Great video Matt (as per usual). I went through pretty much the same exercise myself a few months ago. The little woman her indoors picked up a 15" generic second hand, ex school. Was labeled Wellington but pretty much the same as the old Grizzly. It had a 5H three phase but I don't have 3 phase. My son had a spare 5H single phase but half the speed and larger size and shaft. I had to make up a new mounting plate, fit a new pully (doubled the size on the motor to compensate for the speed difference) fit a new switch and reverse the motor. The pulley cover did fit - just! He also gave me a soft start which means less stress on startup. I also had to add a 20A (240V here in Australia) circuit which I put in the ceiling with a pendant 20A socket. Was a LOT of graft but got there in the end. It now works like a bought one.
Wiring rotation of the motor. The label says the rotation is when looking at the (Lead) end of the motor. This means the rotation described on the label is when looking at the end of the motor where the wires are. Not the shaft end of the motor where the pulley is. Most motor labels go be the lead end when describing rotation. It’s confusing so why do the do it? They do it because some motors have a shaft on both ends. So they go be the end of the motor where the wires enter. And to keep this a standard, they do the same on single shaft motors.
Great job and explanation. My neighbor has the same welding table,he had basically the same problems you had with trying to level the surface for welding. He sanded it down. Just use it just a little bit in few spots.
Matt: I used to only look for machines with single phase motors due to only having single phase power in my basement shop. VFDs are getting to where thy will handle bigger and bigger motors so you can easily handle (and better control) machines with 3 phase motors. If in the future you go for a wide belt sander for example, this might be an answer.
I feel just like that dude on A-Team. I love it when a plan comes together. Great work, Matt. You have a good head on your shoulders and you're a pleasure to watch. Thanks!
under the tape on the winding connection to the blue wire, there might be a thermal fuse that blew in the old motor winding. simple check across with multi-meter might show your thermal fuse might have blown. I have seen that in other motors. Good luck, if not it's a boat anchor. ;-)
Great video, this is a massive project to take on for me with limited metal works and no welding experience as of yet. I love the color change, pretty cool!
What a great upgrade, and a great video! It will probably be fine, but I think those LVLs get a lot more strength when they're oriented 90 degrees from where they are now, so the lamination runs vertically.
Hi Matt, Love your straight up honesty on that hickup! Not many guys would just show that, while the reality is that this kind of jobs just produce surprises. In your math, you forgot the belt losses that get larger on longer belts. But honesty demands to say thats no more than a few tenths of a percent😊. Bottom line, job's a good'n!
sounds like one of my projects, fix one thing so I can fix the thing I was wanting to use . It's a viscous circle. Paint job and sticker , ICEING ON THE CAKE.
Good video. I have completed similar projects in the past. Your video helped me to remember why I stopped doing that type project. It was entertaining. Thank you.
Cooked the motor on a 40yr old Bandsaw - replaced it but then found Switch box to be suss so now use remote powerpoint. Learning can be fun. Nice work on the refit.
That’s a lot of work with the expected “OOPS” moments like we all have had at various times. At the end of the day you got it working similar to what you had before and especially that it now removes 50% more material than it did before so it’s a positive step forward regardless. At least you have the system running at an acceptable rate and can get some work done so that’s a plus too.
Great video. The tape on the motor connections should be electrical tape, rubber splicer’s tape, and another coating of electrical tape. The rubber splicer’s tape will protect the connection from the vibrations inside the motor housing. If the only electrical tape wrap rubs into the housing, you won’t have a good day.
interesting as i have what looks like exactly the same 20" unit with a 5hp motor and 4 knives, but with a different brand name on it. as i am now retired and no longer making furniture for a living, i have not considered upgrading to a helical head. but hearing that a dull knife system cuts more than a helical, i will stay with knives, even if i continue to wear hearing protection.
Hey Matt, thanks for sharing your adventures, I really enjoyed seeing your side project and the way you had too think about what your next move was, I have had my side project too both at home and work . I have been thinking about things like that for all of my life. I was the guy that had to make something work when everybody else couldn’t. Everything from trailers to electric, cars trucks,woodworking.even welding and things made from steel. Even snowplows! My Dad saw my talents working on things like that. Best Regards Bob Lee
Why does it feel like this is how every "free" used tool, appliance, etc. works out? Several hours and a couple hundred bucks later, you got your free used item.
Matthew, you make this video so entertaining to watch. Not only do we see how to do what you did we also get to see when you make a mistake. If this had been me doing what you did that machine would still be in parts sitting in some corner under wraps...lol As always another fun and enjoyable video. Love the red color, it looks way better than that dull green.
Bringing in a more powerful electric motor as long as the bearings and cutting assembly can handle it is smart. All things said, if the output is better and easier to do while saving time then go for that bigger electric motor. Thanks for the Video.
A common trick in the lab where I worked was to throw a charged electrolytic to a buddy and shout 'CATCH!'. It was reflex to try to catch it, and if your hand shorts the terminals while doing so, it was like touch an electric fence. I remember a genuine accident on the bench across from me where a bunch of big electrolytics in parallel exploded throwing bits of casing and brown paper around the lab. When I think of the stunts we all got up to, it's a wonder no one was seriously hurt. Spinning up a bearing with an airline and dropping it on the ground was a good one. Even having bugger all grip on the concrete floor, the bearing would still be doing a fair old lick by the time it hit the wall.
This might be favorite video of yours yet!!!! I have a 20" king that has a lot of the same parts. The previous owner had put in a 5 horse . i have learned a ton from this video i am going use this as my reference for the maintenance that this workhorse needs . Cheers and thanks.
That capacitor could be a run capacitor and that centrifugal switch could be for start windings. The caps on the new motor can be sited remote from the motor itself.
A minor correction: an AC start capacitor does not hold a long charge like a ‘little battery’; that would be an electrolytic capacitor in a DC circuit. Also if you have a shorted winding (possibly caused by burned insulation) the motor will draw a VERY high current which will cause very similar groaning symptoms. Also mechanical interference between the rotor and the stater (possibly caused by misalignment resulting from excessive wear) will have a similar result.
This motor has two capacitors. It is unlikely they are both for starting the motor. One is probably a run capacitor. Either start, or run, they're both just capacitors though. So I'd say your Dad was right to just call it a capacitor.
@@1pcfred ah…he usually was! thanx. he was a machinist at the rowland institute for science and introduced me to the founder, edwin land back in late 80s. everyone associated with that place was fairly brilliant he said ✌️
that's a wonderful tool. Having pride in your tools is a mark of a good craftsman, even if it's more than needed or a little silly. LocTite on your threads is your friend.
Greetings from the BIG SKY. Way too many times have I been tagged by a project I'd 'put off' for any reason exactly when I needed to use whatever it is. Square is way better than squarish. Having the tools when you need them is really the only way to go.
Hi Matt, You could have saved a lot of work by cutting the welds attaching the base plates and swapped them over but rewelding the old plate onto the new motor but 90 degrees out of place. This would have allowed refitting the motor using the original base and would leave the start capacitor to finish in a position either behind the motor or in front , where ever there was the most room. Regards Mo. King
Usually we see you work with wood... an area in which you are quite expert, but occasionally we see you work with steel and or aluminum, but it's so seldom that it is difficult to ascertain if you are similarly gifted with those materials. And, sir, you are obviously on a different place in the learning curve - but it is seriously nice to watch someone work through the challenges and figure everything out. Nice job! I have a motor or two (more like 10) that I have been wanting to re-purpose and this project has provided some encouragement. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Nice job but I agree it would be far easier to buy the matching 5 hp motor, the starter and shroud from grizzly. It would be a good idea to make 4 cover pieces from metal or plywood to reduce the amount of dust getting to the new motor via that new gap you created …presuming the new 5 hp motor from grizzly is comparable in size to your aftermarket motor. I have the same 20” plane with 5 hp motor and elliptical carbide blades. My dust collection isn’t as effective as yours and my planer really cranks out the dust and chips so I’d be concerned about it getting to my motor and causing a fire. I bought my planer with the elliptical bits so my motor enclosure doesn’t have the gap yours has. Should be a quick fix. Great videos. Great content. Keep them coming. 👍
Good job Matthew on fixing and overcoming this motors many unforseen challenges, wow did this motor fall off the back of the truck during shipment or what.
Should use cutting oil when drilling holes in steel. AND of course tapping oil for the tapping of the plate. Oil makes drilling and tapping easier. But you probably knew that already. I learned about all that while in gunsmith school. Oil is essential.
