Adjustments for the contractors saw varys from brand to brand and cabinet saws are different from contractors saws. Cabinet saws are aligned by moving the top. Aligning the miter slot to the blade. Contractors saws there should be adjustments on the motor to align the blade to the miter slot.
great video, thanks. I have the same saw, a great saw in my opinion. My riving knife is slightly out of alignment with the blade. Is there an adjustment for this? I’m guessing it’s just bent. I did buy the display at Lowe’s but a new model was coming out and I got a GREAT deal on it. As far as I can tell the riving knife is one problem and the only other thing is there are 2 pads on the fence where it hooks onto the rail, one is missing but I’ve already addressed that issue.
David If you look at the riving knife from the top with the insert removed, there are 4 allen bolts. The two bolts closest to the blade adjusts the pitch. The two farthest away from the blade lock it down. Installed a new zero clearance insert and saw mine was out of line. That's how I adjusted my knife.
The very first table saw I ever used was a rental from Home Depot and not only was the fence out of alignment, I made the #1 rookie mistake trying to use the fence as a guide for a crosscut. The saw kicked back a piece of wood into my garage door at about 90 mph. i’m lucky I wasn’t hurt. It was a good lesson - I am always extra careful. One question - do you have a jointer and have you calibrated that? I’m having a tough time with a benchtop unit that has 8 different leveling screws
I do have a jointer and honestly they do need calibrated from time to time. I don't know what your jointer is or how it is set up but if it has adjustments to calibrate the beds you will want the outfeed table set at a height level with the cutter head. You will want the outfeed and infeed tables co-planer to each other. You will need a good reliable straight edge to do this. I have been thinking about doing a video on do this but have not had the time to BUT there is several good videos on RU-vid for doing this. Marc at The Wood Whisper has a good one. Hope this helps
Great video! I learned a ton already. I just bought a new 36-725 and my fence seems to move too much side to side and front and back when it isn’t locked. Maybe that’s normal. Also - are you taking all calibration measurements when it is locked down or do you take any unlocked just to check?
Thank you. I am glad you liked the video. The fence will move when it is not locked down and there is no calibration methods for an unlocked fence. When you place you fence for the desired cut, lock it down and there should be no movement. Depending on the quality of the saw and fence some will still have movement even after the fence is locked down. If there is adjustments on the fence you can try to remove the movement by reseting those adjustments. There are some fences that will not lose the movement or flex. All you can do is adjust and if it won't come out purchase another fence or a better saw. Hope this helps
@@amirhouseingholinia2023 There is no advantage really for the saw's performance. The only reason to do it would be to balance the load of your breaker box. It will not give your saw any more power or make it any faster to convert it to 220
Remove the throat plate and I think there is some allen wrench fittings on the knife you can adjust. Never had to adjust mine so I'm not sure but I saw a comment before that mentioned it. Might check there first. If not you may have to straighten it if its bent
First I found that my locking lever wasn’t all the way down. Even with that down it was still slightly out of alignment. At that point I have it a good tug to bend it ever so slightly. It’s now perfect. Just cut some 3/8 wide rails for the cross cut sled I’m making. Also decided that 3/8 was a thing as I’ll ever go on that table saw. My push stick didn’t touch the blade but I was concerned.
I hate to be one of those guys that correct people on RU-vid, but dang it, here I go. What you say about the table top being misaligned with the saw, at around 4:30, is not entirely correct. I have this model, and dealt with this problem. Keep in mind that the delta 36 models are not “Cabinet saws.” Cabinets saw are when they have the saw assembly mounted to the Cabinet of the table, and are generally much more expensive, very heavy and much better. This is a contractor saw, with mainly means the saw assembly is mounted to the table. So if you tap the table around, the assembly will fallow. This particular saw, has counter sunk bolts and holes where the assembly attaches to the table top, so even if you try to adjust it there, it just goes back when you tighten the hardware. What makes the alignment off on these is the rods that the assembly slide up and down on, are held tight with hex cap screws. This rod can come off alignment. Run the blade down, and take off four screws that hold the dust cover above the motor, and the two cap screws will be exposed to the top left, if your on the motor side. The problem is trying the get it properly adjusted for whatever height of the blade you typically run at. This system seems janky and seems like it’s not the best way to mount this rod, definitely has to be the worse thing, to me, about this saw. However, it’s a 600 saw, not a 2500 dollar Unisaw.
