Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it. I’ve been meaning to hit the third brake light but haven’t addressed it on the Tundra. I’ll be busy this coming weekend but will aim to make a short video soon to share.
Just picked up an SR5 4x4 crewmax TSS (black out package) metallic sky silver. All emblems and the tailpipe are blacked out. Which has me wanting to do this to my tail lights and cargo bed light. Nicely done! I don't have a heat gun and am wondering if a blow drier would work.
That sounds killer! Tinting the tails will really add to the black out theme. I haven’t tried working with the material using a hair dryer. I’d question if it would have too much air speed as the material is looking for a burst of heat but not necessarily a ton of blowing around. It’s definitely worth a try tho!
Not a particular time, you will notice the film relax and become much more fluid. I’d say maybe 10 to 20 seconds depending on size of piece you’re working with.
Appreciate it. That will work right away to shape the film around them, but there’s too much tension that way and the chances of it lifting back up are really high. Heat will allow the film to stretch, but heat will also shrink it back to original state so when it’s sitting in the sun there’s a natural tendency of stretched areas to shrink back and lift up.
@@TunersCanvas Great video! I had my Tundra tail lights smoked with this same tint product, at a tint shop. Two days later, there is lifting above and below the 'fins' that are so hard to work around. Can I correct that myself, with a little heat and working to stretch the material back into place? Is there risk in splitting the material? And if I can not get the air bubbles around the fins to settle down, should I relive the tension by poking or cutting it? Any help is great!
@@AndyAAnderson Thats a bummer but they’re definitely tricky to work around. Unfortunately, with the tension that was left during initial install, heating and pressing back down will likely continue to lift back up and bubble. You can give it a try but I feel the material will eventually split apart. Best bet is a redo from the shop, giving them an opportunity to learn a better approach for future applications.
Excellent job, but this seems like it would be a major pain in the ass for someone who has never done this before. What is the likelihood of decent results having no experience?
No doubt there is a learning curve when working with the film. On the tundra, I think you’ll find the challenge is working around the two air deflectors that are integrated into the housing. Also, when I first started working with the film I wasn’t heating and pulling enough to direct the tension in a way that works in your favor. Don’t be afraid to really pull hard horizontal around the light as it makes the top and bottom corners lay into place much easier when applying a little heat the second time. Nice thing is that it’s easily removed, so give it a try and if it doesn’t work out first time you can peel it off and try again.
Great question. I don’t mention it but it is a specific vinyl based material for lights. It’s a product from Luxe Auto Concepts and has a transparency so light can pass through easily. I purchase mine from MetroRestyling.com
@@deepsweech I believe it may vary state to state. Generally speaking, a dark black out film may generate some attention even though it is a transparent film designed to allow light to shine through.
Hey bro, I tried a air release tint off Amazon, my buddy used a poke tool for air bubbles. It ended up bubbling with air maybe also water would get in during car washes. Any advice on product and if you recommend to use an poke tool?
Hey. Personally don’t use any poke tool. I have been using Luxe Auto Concepts Light Wrap and found it to be really nice to work with. Has air release also and comes in many shade options.
I’d say leaving the lights on the vehicle is much easier. In order to get an appropriate amount of pull on the material, it helps to have the light secured in place. Trying to hold the light with one hand and work the material with the other on a bench top or table will make the process much more difficult than it needs to be.
@@Savage_Offroad Ah that’s no problem! Go ahead and wrap the lights with them in place and then once the film is nicely to the edges, simply remove the hardware and slide the light out a couple inches for trimming. The tint will stay in place just fine.
@@TunersCanvas that’s a great idea! Thank you for the advice. This is a great video and I also watched the one on the 3rd brake light. Do you think I should do the same thing too where I tint it and then remove it to trim, or would it ruin the tint because the screws that hold the lens on would be stuck under the tint. The tint would have to it holes to remove the screws.
@@Savage_Offroad On the 3rd it’s much easier to trim since it’s a plastic housing that provides a great guide for the cut. I have installed the tint both with and without the hardware in place. You could remove the hardware, apply the tint, and run the screws back in after. In that video I covered the hardware to see how it holds up long term and learn how to best install it.
