Talking point: belaying off of the anchor remake 

Ya that's an awesome video topic! I'll add it to the list.

I actually have a lot of videos on the fixed point belay: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MeOaqK4KdFQ.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gYMdQoE0Y1M.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ju83DJKVirQ.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-44B6YsXlnBo.html

@@ryantilley9063 oh sry I mean talking points on belaying leader off the anchor. I saw your videos on using a munter for that, wander if there's any talks on setting up a belay devices, on anchor, for lead belay

If I'd been taught to use the grigri to top belay that makes a lot of sense except if the grigri gets trapped against the rock somehow and you get no assistance in braking..

Everything I've learned has been through edgeworks and amga guides so..

@@staleyexplores With single ropes, belaying a second with a grigri is a dream on low angle and traverses compared to guide mode

You're completely right, if the Grigri gets trapped along the rock and that causes the cam to not engage it won't pinch on the rope. You can counteract that with flipping the grigri over so the cam is not on the wall side and facing you. A better option in that situation is just to use the ATC in guide mode if you're worried about the Grigri cam not engaging. I usually teach people just to use the ATC in guide mode at first and have the Grigri as another option. My guess is the other guides you worked with told you to use the Grigri because you have a really fat rope! The main reason to use the Grigri to belay the follower is if you have a really thick rope to save your elbows. My go- to in every day situations is the ATC in guide mode with a thinner rope (about 9.1-9.4) and that works really well. If I'm using a fatter rope I'll probably go for a Grigri for the easier pull but that's also when it's hanging in space off of the anchor. I worked at Edgeworks for a couple of years, really great guide service!

@@ryantilley9063 yeah I was never recommended to use the grigri, if anything they said not to and go guide mode!!🤙 My rope is 9.6 edilrid the tommy Caldwell rope. If nothing else I learned a lot in this experience along with your video. Ty Ryan for being such a bad ass!!

Why do you want to do that? There are terrible dumb ok good better and best ways to do things. Why not always aim for the better and best ways when it comes to safety and ease of keeping the most amount of safety in the equation

The big problem with that set up is you need a lot more judgment and thinking to make it work for different situations. The Brits actually use that method as a the go- to for their belay set up so they can be softer on the equipment, but that line of thought doesn't track for the set up when you're sitting on the anchor. That belay method is still used and useful, mostly in alpine/ short pitching/ snow belaying situations, but it's not as useful in the rock world anymore, and overall makes for a more uncomfortable belay for the climber and belayer also I've seen a lot of misuse or misapplication of that technique which could cause a lot of bad stuff if the climber falls. I guess it's moved on to a more advance belaying style rather than a beginner belay style now.